DPM Small Diesel Lubritorium

[ACL1504]

It's time to add the cornices to the walls.



I'd like to make a suggestion when using the cornices. Actually it involves removing them from the sprue. In the photo below you can see that I've compleyely removed one set and the other is shown removed but in the sprue carrier.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Below is a better photo and close up of the parts.



If at all possible, cut the sprue where I did and removed the parts as best you can without disturbing the sprue.

Okay, I know this is a big mystery but I'll explain later in the build. Trust me, the sprues will come in handy.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I made the cornice sections and placed them at the top of the walls. In the photo below you can see the cornices prior to the gluing.



I started with the two arched openings. This is the front of the lubritorium.



I then moved to the side walls and added the cornices.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Time to glue the corners. DPM doesn't supply the next needed item so get some while ordering the other parts. You'll need some 1/4" or HO scale 8X8's for the corners.

I'm going to glue together the two walls shown below.



Notice the wall on the left has a narrow pilaster and the one on the right has the wider pilaster?

These two sections of pilasters are a pair. Whenever you have an outside corner to glue the two are both used. This gives you a constant with all the walls. If you used two narrow ones together and/or the two larger ones, the walls won't be square when you go to glue them together.

Also, the narrow pilaster has brick detail on one edge and the other edge doesn't. See below.



The narrow pilaster with the no brick detail edge is glued to the back side of the larger pilaster and not the other way. The key is to be very consistent when gluing the wall corners.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Next, cut a piece of the HO scale 8x8 and glue it to the backside of the wall.



Now your walls should look like this.



Next, glue the other wall in place. The backsides should look like the ones below. The white scale 8x8 fits flush in the corner of each wall section. And, don't forget to square the walls while the glue dries. That tip is free.



Diet Pepsi time folks, back in a few.

[ACL1504]

Okay, I'm back! Here is how the outside corner should look. Notice the narrow pilaster butts up the the wider pilaster for a nice fitting corner.



Next, glue the narrow and wider pilaster caps in place as shown.





Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Gluing an inside corner is a little more tricksie!

I was going through my bag of wall sections and then read the instructions and found that the inside wall corners aren't supplied with he wall sections either. The instructions state, "Use Inside Corner Strips (sold separately, included with Design Bulk Packs and Roof & Trim kit #30190)"

What the Fudge! Get it? Nice to know now that the project is started. So, instead of buying the little extra kit, I used the HO scale 8x8's. The walls will be painted anyway.

I glued the HO scale 8x8 on the wall where the large pilaster would normally be glued.



I then glued the other wall section to the 8x8 making sure the walls were square while the glue dried.

[ACL1504]

I then glued the five window wall section to the rest of the structure.



Now all the walls are glued together.






More tomorrow afternoon.

[ak-milw]

Looking good Tom, nice sized building.

[Jerry]

Tom real neat work.  Your corners are looking perfect.
Great job.

Jerry

[donatode]

I'll be following along .... as long as I can keep my eyes open.

[barrymk]

Clean, methodical working like this with styrene makes all the difference. (Note to self - try following that principle). You're going to end up with a great model with wonderful brick texture Tom. Not having a pop at Andy here but why look down on plastic kits? They are very flexible for the basher and affordable too for those of us on a limited model budget. With a bit of imagination and good treatment they can be made into top quality models.  At the risk of being a bit contentious though I'd put my Poor Man's Rollins Sawyer plastic kitbashed model up against a made up laser kit any day. 

[barrymk]

What I should have added to the above is that it really doesn't matter what medium/s we work in as long as we achieve the best results we can and enjoy the process into the bargain.

[ak-milw]

Barry, I wasn't knocking plastic, it just seems to me that when I build something with it I get talked down to about it. Just wanted to clear that up, now Tom can have his post back.

[ReadingBob]

Very nice thread Tom.  You're covering every angle of the build and doing a wonderful job of it.

To echo some of the other comments I like seeing what can be done with the less expensive plastic kits.  There are some wonderful examples of folks turning them into real gems on their layouts.