Hilltown Entrepreneurs, Build Challenge 2016

[Powersteamguy1790]

Jeff:

The build is coming long nicely.

Stay cool and run steam......

[Zephyrus52246]

Well, Bob (PSG) wanted a tutorial on the peeling paint.  I wasn't intending to do that now, but while working on the dormers, I found there were some unpainted pieces.     The first pic shows the "ingredients" for this.  First, "age" the walls.  I used Hunter's weathering mix for this (picture 2).  The "classic" treatment is Floquil driftwood for this, but only the "hoarders" still have some of that paint left.    A&I or simply grey paint can be used for this also.  The next step is to drybrush the walls with a light tan paint, I used Apple Barrel 'Sandstone' for this  First drybrush UP the walls.  This catches the edges and occasionally spills over onto the board faces as well.  Picture three shows this as well as the brush I use for this.  A soft, flat #4 Fitch brush from Dick Blick.  These are relatively cheap brushes, and this technique really taxes them.  I then brush with the boards a bit, and even press the brush into the boards, scrubbing the paint on (Picture four).  Next is your main color, white in this case.  Do the same thing.  You want to build these layers up slowly. (Picture 5)  When you start this process, do a wall and then leave it awhile and come back to see if you've added enough paint for your liking.  Once you have one wall to the point you like it, use it as a reference for the later walls. 


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Next, I rub the walls with the brush tool.  It adds a bit of grain and some silvery look to the walls.  I do this gently on most walls, really hard on a really aged wall.  Then add nailholes, if you like, and raise a board or two with the chisel blade.  (picture one).  A black wash with A&I or in this case Vallejo black wash should finish the job (Picture 2).  Compare it to the master wall and if it matches (picture 3)  you're done.  It's a time consuming process, but I like the effect.  Notice I didn't use the grey paint here, but if you have a spot that's "too white" you can dry brush some of the grey over it (or the sandstone as well).  You can also sponge paint some grey over a spot you think has too much paint. 


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Next up, this is how I do the windows.  The dormer windows are glued together and then styrene trim is applied inside them.  even with the trim on, they're really delicate. Some corner posts were added as well.  Of course, now the windows and the trim piece are a different shade of white.    I should left the windows unpainted, (Picture one), but I just resprayed the assemblies white (Picture two).  Picture three shows the sandstone and grey paint, a piece of a grouting sponge and a stiff flat brush.  Put a small amount of paint on a surface  (I have oodles of these old pieces of cardboard) touch a small area of the sponge to it and then dab at the cardboard to get most of the paint off.  When it gets to the point of the tan spots just under the tweezers (picture four), you can then dab it on the windows.  How hard you press will determine how much paint comes off.  It's tough to get the inner sashes with the sponge, especially the inside corners, so I do the same thing with the brush.  "Dry dabbing" on these areas.  I occasionally dry brush as well, so it doesn't look just like spots.  Afterwards, I go back over with white "dry dabbing" and dry brushing to even it out a bit. (Picture five) Add a black wash and compare it to the siding, (Picture six).This looks close enough for me.   


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

In one of the many great build threads that's going on, someone mentioned a product called Judi Kins Diamond Glaze for glazing windows.  I've never been happy with the Gallery glass nor the Canopy glue for this.  So I sent for some and tried it.  It's OK, the glass is wavy (maybe I could add a second coat with a brush on the fronts or maybe some Future over it to flatten it out).  But I didn't get any bubbles or thin spots like I get with the others, I think it's because it's thicker.  No over run on the front of the sashes, either.  It'll do for the dormer windows, I painted the back black as there's nothing behind these windows but roof.


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

If you have this kit, don't mix up the triangle shaped pieces in the picture above, the bottom two are slightly different than the top two.  The dormers and their roofs are on, along with the little pooch out shown in picture one.  Now it's time for the roofing.  The main roof is corrugated roofing.  I hate the metal product of this, as you're always knocking the paint off and making shiny spots which need touch up later.  I usually use the Northeastern paper product for this.  I didn't here because, I didn't have enough, and the way the roof is done you need longer pieces like the ones supplied.  Anyway I cut them in three foot wide pieces per the instructions and put them in the paint booth (picture 2).  I usually use grey Rustoleum primer for this.  Didn't have any .  I did have some black left, and used that, then covered with some Tamiya primer which is a very light grey.  (picture 3).  Started putting them on the structure.  With the tape exposed you really have to watch where you stick a finger or you'll stick to the building as well.    Yes there are already some shiny spots.     Now to trim all the angle pieces.  Ick. 


Jeff

[ACL1504]

Jeff,

Well done to this point. Love the structure walls and wow, that's a lot of roof to cover with the corrugated roofing panels.

Tom

[S&S RR]

Well done - thanks for the tutorial.  And as Tom said that's a lot of roof.

[MAP]

Looking great Jeff.  Thanks for the tutorial and photos on your painting technique. 

[postalkarl]

Hi Jeff:

I don't or have never built a SRMW kit. You are doing a wonderful job with it. I will continue to follow along.

Karl

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks Tom, John, Mark and Karl.  It IS a lot of roof.  Here's a picture of the "easy" roof finished.  The external edges get covered with painted paper to represent metal covering.  The internal edges don't, so they have to be pretty precise.  I'm presently doing the left roof with the dormer.  Every piece needs to be measured and cut.  It's not as fun as seen on TV.   


Jeff

[ReadingBob]

Ouch!     I'm having flashbacks to when I had to apply shingles to the SRMW Cambridge Crossing Station.  And that was shingles, not metal roof panels!  I remember all the trimming and fitting on that one and this one looks a lot more difficult.  You have your work cut out for you!  But it'll look great when you're done! 

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks for your encouragement, Bob.  The roof with the first dormer is finished.  I'll add the corner edge pieces from leftovers at the end.  The dormers are covered with raised seam roofing.  Wish the whole thing was.    There are already many shiny spots coming thru on the roof.  I suspect I'll have to "over paint" it when it's ready for weathering. 

Jeff

[Janbouli]

Looking great Jeff, I just love dormers and different roof patterns.

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks, Jan.  I like the look, too, except that I have to custom cut nearly every piece of roofing.  Where the garage comes into the building was tough, the roof goes under the other roof, see the center of the first picture.  On the first side, I cut it for a piece to lie over the roof, I fixed that on the second side and may go back and fix the first if I don't run out of roofing material.  I left the toughest roof section for the end, hoping my techniques would improve.  The edges where the pieces lie over each other tend to separate, the tape keeps the rest down pretty well.  I'm using a touch of superglue where the pieces overlie.  Of course, if it seeps out, it takes the paint right off the metal.   


Jeff