Build Challenge 2016 - Dyer's Hardware by Micro-Scale Models

[Vilius]

Thanks, guys. I thought about posting my window tips today. Then I got lazy and decided to postpone it or skip it all together hoping no one would remember. Now that Dr.Jeff has asked for the tips... Here it goes.

Remember I use the technology so my way isn't for everyone.

Before I glue the windows and doors I take one of each style and scan them using my scanner. I place the backs on the glass. I scan into Photoshop Elements that came with my computer or perhaps my camera. I don't remember. The scanners also come with some software that allows to save scans in a file. My CAD software reads pictures only bmp and wmf formats so I save scans in bmp.
Next I start my CAD software and load the scan. I am using TurboCAD v7. It is ancient but it is still working. What it is good about it that it inserts pictures into the drawings and keeps all of the dimensions. I trace inside of the windows and doors by drawing the lines. See the picture below.
Then I copy and paste the rectangles in the different area of the drawing. I rotate them so that they are perpendicular, change the color to black, add some thickness to the lines, mark top and the bottom panels. After that I create copies and print the sheet.
I take the sheet and cut out the area containing the templates. Depending on the number of the templates and the size of clear plastic I have, I may cut into smaller pieces. I attach the templates to the clear plastic with Paper Cement. I used to use white glue but it leaves the residue that is not easy to get rid off. The Paper Cement stays attached to the paper when I peel it off. So, I let Paper Cement to dry for several minutes and the I cut out "windows" using the templates and peel off the paper. The next step is optional. I throw the "glass" into rubbing alcohol to get rid of fingerprints and other stuff. I let them soak for 10-15 minutes. I take out the "glass" with the tweezers and touch paper towel with the edge of the plastic to get most of RA off. I check to make sure there are no any dust particles stuck. If there are, I try washing them off by dunking back in the RA and moving around. Sometimes I need to use my fingers to remove most stubborn dust. After that I rinse the "glass" in RA again. Once it is dust free I dunk it in the Future (clear gloss acrylic) for clean glass or mix of Modelmasters clear satin and flat for the dirty glass look and place it on the window. The acrylic acts as a glue, so there is no need to be extremely accurate applying the other glue you may use, there is no oozing and cleanup. Also gloss acrylic adds some reflection that real glass has.
I hope my explanation is understandable. Please ask questions if it isn't.

Vilius

[ReadingBob]

Thanks Vilius.  That's a very clever solution!  For a large structure with a lot of windows that seems like it would certainly be worth the extra effort.  I like the tip about soaking the windows in rubbing alcohol too.  I usually just clean them off with a cloth.  I'll have to try the rubbing alcohol. 

[postalkarl]

Hi Vilius:

Thanks for the information.

Karl

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks for the tip, Vilius.  I think in a structure with a lot of windows this would help my "windowphobia".   


Jeff

[MASIGMON]

This is a little off subject.  On windows does anyone ever use the laser cut window material that comes with the Tichy window packages?

Mike Sigmon

[ACL1504]

Mike,

No, I like using the Canopy Glue instead. Its nice they include the Acetate for the window glass but I've never used it.

Tom

[Vilius]

I have used Tichy window "glass" but on few occasions only. I don't do much of scratchbuilding or kitbashing. Their glass is OK or at least better than old Bar Mills that had thick edges, round corners and were fogged up. I am talking about the BM kits that came in the clear plastic boxes. Since then BM folks have improved their process.

I started assembling the structure. This part of kit building I like best. It looks like I am making some serious progress without much of the effort.

Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together.

Vilius

[postalkarl]

Hi Vilius:

Looks absolutely wonderful!!!!! Great job so far.

Karl

[ACL1504]

Vilius,

I agree, beautiful work. Very well done.

Tom

[MAP]

"Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together."  Sayyyy Whattttt?   
Very neat way of doing the windows Vilius.  Thanks for the tips.  Your build is really coming along nicely.  Keep the pics coming.

[S&S RR]

I have used Tichy window "glass" but on few occasions only. I don't do much of scratchbuilding or kitbashing. Their glass is OK or at least better than old Bar Mills that had thick edges, round corners and were fogged up. I am talking about the BM kits that came in the clear plastic boxes. Since then BM folks have improved their process.

I started assembling the structure. This part of kit building I like best. It looks like I am making some serious progress without much of the effort.

Disclaimer. No clamps have been used to glue all this together.

Vilius

Okay, I'll bite. Why not clamps?

[Powersteamguy1790]

Looking good Vilius. Have fun with it.

Stay cool and run steam.......

[donatode]

Superb workmanship Vilius.....I've got my eyes on you!!

[Vilius]

Thank you, everyone, for stopping by.

John, you will be disappointed in my answer. I intended the disclaimer to be just a joke and nothing more. I was amazed seeing how many clamps Mark owns and uses. Then the thought crossed my mind "Hey, I didn't use a single clamp" and put it out. Perhaps "No clamps have been hurt making this model" may have been better. It doesn't mean I have anything against them or the way Mark is using them. I simply don't own the right clamps.

Vilius

[Vilius]

I am not too far from being done. I need some 5 more lunch breaks perhaps.

Vilius