CCK Miller and Kemp Millwork build

Started by Zephyrus52246, March 08, 2017, 10:30:26 AM

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Zephyrus52246

Finally finishing the Hilltown build, some of you may have noticed there's a gap between the two dioramas on my layout.  I needed a structure to put in there, and Carolina Craftsman Kits Miller and Kemp Millwork will fit well ( I hope).  There's a sheet in the kit which has the footprint of the structure and it seems to work out, so here goes.   The pic of the "usual stuff" in the box.  Stripwood, walls, instructions, windows, etc.


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

I started by truing the edges in the True Sander.  I just knock off the laser burn completely to square the edge.




Zephyrus52246

No contrasting trim here (except the windows), so I installed the corner posts before the bracing, then sprayed the backsides with flat black to prevent warping and to block the lack of any interior.  I masked the edges where the corner posts ( to stain them later ), and the side bracing are (to make gluing the walls together easier, so I don't have paint to paint gluing).

Zephyrus52246

I used the leftover "knock outs" from the windows to experiment with color.  I wanted an easy build this time without having to use three layers of dry brushing like the garage build.  Two base coats of Hunterline light grey followed by Barn red looked good, but was a bit too dark.  I again used the knock outs to try a wash of light grey (too stark and homogeneous), sponge painting (too spotty) and dry brushing some light grey on.  The dry brushing lightened it up enough.  I don't think I'll use A&I over this as it will just darken it again.  I was a bit worried that the two types of siding (the board/batten grain is vertical and the clapboard grain horizontal) would be a problem with the stain, but it wasn't.   The pic shows the 2 coats of grey on the right and then the added red on the left.



Zephyrus52246

I then used my new favorite tool, the Rivet_R to put in the nail holes.  They are round, unlike the usual rectangular ones I've gotten with other pounce wheels.  You can hardly see them on the siding, but that's the effect I like, not overdone.  They show up better with the A&I wash, but again, the siding is dark enough already so I'm going to forego the wash.

MAP

Great start so far Jeff.  I've got this one, so I'll be following along.  Keep those progress photos coming!
Mark

ReadingBob

Count me in too!  Where did you find that Rivet_R?  Looks like something I (and a few other SBG members) need.   ::)  ::)   :D  :D
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Zephyrus52246

Thanks for following, guys.  Bob, I think I got the tool at mmodelstore.com, but I don't see it listed.  They have the "mini" version, not the larger one.  The source in England,  http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_110     has them, but I don't know how long it would take to get here from across the pond.  They make several sizes of the wheels, I used the 1 mm one here.  This is MUCH quicker than poking each board with my Monster Nailer.  I'm now working on the windows.  I sprayed them with grey primer and wanted to use the sponge painting to show some minor wear.  I picked my lightest color of cheap acrylic.  Put it on, when it dried it was the same color.   :) I next what looked like a lighter grey in my Vallejo colors.  Again--the same color!   ???  Used one I thought would be too light, and it looks OK when dried.  A&Ied the windows and am now installing glass using the Diamond Glaze.  I think this works much better than canopy glue or gallery glass.  Very few bubbles, and doesn't run out onto the fronts of the windows.  I prefer using acetate for windows, but this is, again MUCH quicker and at the distance the structure will be viewed it will be fine. 


Jeff

Janbouli

I love photo's, don't we all.

jerryrbeach

Jerry

GPdemayo

Looks like a neat kit.....I'll be watching Jeff.  ;D
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Zephyrus52246

Thanks for following along, guys.  Before adding the windows to the Board and batten siding, the battens need to be trimmed.  The first pic shows the window "floating" on the battens.  Using a sharp new chisel blade, carefully remove them (pic 2).  Then the window seats perfectly (pic 3).





Zephyrus52246

It's starting to look like an actual structure!  :)

Zephyrus52246

In the pic above, I haven't attached the office section yet.  There is a large loading dock that it must sit up against, so I'm building that next.  If Mr. Groovy is following this, a note in the instructions for this would be nice.  The instructions show the addition attached, but unless you have the dock built already, or want to custom fit it later you won't place it in exactly the correct spot.  This part gets pretty tedious, and I've only got a few of the joists attached!   :o

Zephyrus52246

That's done.  Need to even up the edges and fit it to the building.  I know the board ends don't line up over the joists in the long dimension.  I thought I'd cut 12 foot boards and as it's 37.5 feet long, just make up the 1.5 feet on one board and stagger the ends.  It'll do, but I did it correctly on the side piece, so the joists line up. 


Jeff

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