The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 3

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I built one of Walthers original 90' turntable kits years ago.  With my operators in mind, I have left the hut and power arch loose, and never applied the plastic railings.  Building stronger railings of wire is on the list.

James,

The older Walthers turntables were in quasi kit form. My first one had the hut and railing in a plastic bag for adding at the owners choice.

This one has the hut and handrails already glued in place. These railings will be fine as the turntable is powered and there is no reason to be touching it.

Thanks for checking in.

Tom

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Great job Tom. I'm glad you were able to figure out a work around and that it didn't require another PSX-AR.

Curt,

Thank you. You were here the Saturday I was thinking the only option I had was to treat the two tracks as a reverse loop. As you said, it was a bonus to have it tied into the current reverse loop and not have to use an additional PSX-AR.

Tom

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Tom, You are becoming an Electrical Genius in addition to being a fantastic Modeler.

Jim

Jim,

Thank you very much. All the knowledge I have concerning electrical genius, as you say, was learned from you.

Tom

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Great gobs o' goose poop!    That's pretty impressive and your solution to the electrical problem is nothimg short of genius. Well done, sir! I'm still a track laying and dcc noob. Will certainly follow along.
R/,
Norm

Norm,

Thank you for the kind compliment. I got lucky on the treating the two outbound tracks as reverse loops. I think we all start out as noobs in one field or another. I'm still learning in all aspects of railroad modeling.

Tom

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Looking great Tom.  Nice solution on the wiring of those two tracks.

Jerry

Jerry,

Much  appreciated, thank you. As I mentioned the idea of treating them as a reverse loop was the only option I could think of. And, thank the Lord it worked.

Tom

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My first surgery on the turntable bridge was to remove the operators hut.



It was glued to the bridge deck via four small plastic nubs. I used a #17 Xacto blade and sliced the four nubs to remove the hut.



More in a few.

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My plan was to use the hut as a model to scratch build a new one out of scale lumber.

I used a new #11 blade and cut around the top of the walls. I then used the #17 blade to pry the roof up and off.






I need to load and crop more photos so I'll be back in a few minutes. I may as well grab a cold Diet Pepsi.

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Getting the for walls apart was much easier than I thought. All I did was apply a little pressure to pull them apart. Very little Chinese glue was used the hold the hut walls together.




I also needed to get the window glsss out so I could trace the window opening.

I used a #11 blade and traced around the window to cut through the glue.



More in a few.

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I used a #17 blade to "pop" out the window glass/plastic.



I only needed to remove the glass from one side and one end wall.



More in a few.

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I made two side walls using the plastic wall as a template. I'm only showing one.





More in a few.

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I then repeated the process using the end wall.





More in a few.

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All four walls cut and ready for detailing.



Little break here, I forgot the Diet Pepsi.

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I'm going to cut to the chase here. If I took photos of the entire process of detailing the four walls, I'd have another 60 photos. Since I'm not trying to catch John on post numbers, I left out that part. I didn't take any photos of that process.

I used a combination of HO scale 1 X 4, 2 X 2, 2 X 4 and 2 X 6's to trim the window openings and wall corners.

Here is a photo of one of the end walls.




Next, was the gluing of the four walls.



More in a few.

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The hut door is on the right.



All  four walls fit and glued together as planned, er as cut.



More in a few.

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Prior to adding any corner trim, I made sure the walls were square and secure while the glue set and dried - overnight.





Adding the corner trim was next along with a light coat of Hunterline Light Grey A&I.

More in a few.