The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 3

Started by ACL1504, August 30, 2018, 03:27:18 PM

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ACL1504

Here is how the phone cable is connected to the end jacks.

Cut the length of cable needed and strip both ends. You can strip one end at a time as well. I used the crimping tool to remove the grey sleeve from the wires.



Next I added the jacks to each end.

It really doesn't matter how you attach the end jacks as long as you get them tight. I try to keep it simple by either using the flat side of clip side as shown below.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504




Once the jacks are on the ends, crimp them in place.



Simple enough for me to figure out and do.

Continued -
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Again, here is the photo of the cables on place.



I forgot to mention I got the 6 wire phone cable from a local surplus Army/Navy Supply house. I got just under 500 feet for about $10.00. Should last me through this layout and then some.



More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Next I added the power wires to the three DS64s.


I used the thin solid copper wire for the power leads. These are shown with the blue and white wires in the next photo.



I have all green lights which means I can now add the Tortoise turnouts wires and program the DS64 for DCC control of the turnouts.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

BandOGuy

Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2019, 07:37:18 PM
Next I added the power wires to the three DS64s.

I used the thin solid copper wire for the power leads. These are shown with the blue and white wires in the next photo.



I have all green lights which means I can now add the Tortoise turnouts wires and program the DS64 for DCC control of the turnouts.

Somewhere, over the rainbow......
Working on my second million. I gave up on the first.

MAP

What a project Tom!  The signals will really add a whole new level of realism to the layout.  And all of those Digitrax units look like you can guide a rocket to Mars!!  Impressive.
Mark

PRR Modeler

Tom, I'm sure it will be perfect when done. Do you need anymore DS64's for the rest of the third level, or will 3 be enough?
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

ACL1504

Chip,

I love your sense of humor, thanks for stopping by. Hope all is well with the Mrs. now.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Quote from: MAP on February 15, 2019, 04:24:01 AM
What a project Tom!  The signals will really add a whole new level of realism to the layout.  And all of those Digitrax units look like you can guide a rocket to Mars!!  Impressive.


Mark,

Thank you. I've added a few more signals to the upper level. The one problem with feeding them off the Tortoise turnouts is that the turnout controls the signals. Meaning if you reverse the train, the signal lights won't be correct.

I have all the parts for the signals set up for blocks but didn't feel like adding a zillion additional wires under each level.

If I was an electrical engineer like Jim Miller, it would have been done. I'm just lazy in the prototypical signaling department.

My signals are really eye candy but do work in a prototypical manner if you constantly go in the one direction.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Curt,

I used three and have four more at hand.

On the second level, I have 7 DS64's controlling 33 turnouts. I have 3 crossovers controlled by one toggle on the DS64.

I'm not sure at this point if I'll need any more. I probably will but it all depends on the track plan which is still in my pea brain. :P

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

I now have 7 of nine turnouts wired and under DCC control using the Digitrax DS64 stationary decoders.

I had a hard time programing the decoders this time around. I had to reset and redo them all at least three times each prior to them taking the commands. Murphy's Law - I'm really starting to hate that guy.

All the turnouts on the second level start with the number 201 and go through 228.

All turnouts on the third level will be in the 300 series.

I mark each decoder with the corresponding turnout numbers as shown below.



Notice about two inches of a loop in the wires at the bottom of the decoders. This gives me a little safety net if I catch some wires while working under the layout. I just need to make sure I catch the snag prior to the two inches pulled 2.1 inches.



More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

I located this turnout over a cross brace so the Tortoise couldn't be installed underneath. I'll hide it with a small structure.

I measured, cut and glued cork to the plywood for the support of the linkage.



I measured and bent the throw bar wire. Prior to the final bend on the end, I slipped on the 3/32" brass tubing.



Continued -
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

I also needed to make a small adjustment in the height of the Tortoise so I added a piece of 1 ply cardboard. This worked perfectly.





More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Over the past few days I've been placing a few signal posts where they will be seen from the isle.





Prior to wiring the signals I removed them and retested all 18.

One signal was totally out. I then started to replace both the red and green LEDs.

I noticed when I replaced one red LED it was much brighter than the green above it. I then decided to test another signal by replacing a green LED and that turned out to be brighter than the red.

Yes, I do understand using resistors of differing values will change the brightness of the LEDs. So please, no electrical lessons on that subject. All LEDs were tested with the same 470 ohm resistors that came in the pack.

I may be wrong but I think the red and green LEDs from 35 years ago aren't as good as the newer ones. Both the old and new are Miniatronics items.

More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

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