Kit Bashing Jason Jensen's Kit Bash of 3 KC's Workshop Kits.

[ACL1504]

Of course I'm following.

Curt,

And, of course, I appreciate the following.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Yep...count me in. 👍🏻

Dave,

Happy to have you on board. This will surely be a fun build, er, kit bash.

Tom

[Amagic41]

Tom
  Looking in also ....  Here is a link to Jasons Facebook Page where he detailed his bash https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/

[ACL1504]

Tom
  Looking in also ....  Here is a link to Jasons Facebook Page where he detailed his bash https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Jensen-Trains-578521205680286/

Ken,

I'm happy to have you following along. Thanks for the link, I knew I saw it somewhere but couldn't find it. I don't do face book so now I can see what he says.

Tom

[ACL1504]

For those who may have purchased this kit, meaning the kit bash kit, the build is rather straight forward.

I know Jason's build seems a bit intimidating when first viewed a few times, but it is rather a simple build.

If you want to build Jason's model, start by cutting of the top of the larger building. This building is Goober's Service & Towing.

In the photo below, you'll only need to remove the gable portion as shown.



Once the building was braced and built, he simply added the Utility Shed to the top. Here is my the utility shed I built for the  A&S RR.

Referring to Jason's build, this is the second floor structure on his kit bash.

However, Jason didn't bring the roof down over the area of the deck. He simply followed the roof line of the main shed itself.

[ACL1504]

Prior to the actual build, I'd like to mention the comment Jerry made on the DeGraw's Poultry build. Simply put he stated,

"Your build of the shed with its correct bracing, rafters, etc. really makes the building stand out. IMO, implausible construction detracts from some otherwise outstanding models and it is IMO all to common."

Mark mentioned this as well and wanted me to explain further and to not hold back.

Another way to look at this is to imagine a building that no contractor would ever build. In the 1:1 world, details of diagonal bracing would be on every post considered a support post. My DeGraw's deck and post framing is such an example.





Here is the example I mention as not having the correct diagonal bracing on the shed support posts.



Yes, I agree its only a model but if you build it, why not do it correctly construction wise?

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Since I'm building the Jenson kit bash, let's talk about the construction of the model.

Jason did a fantastically beautiful job on the build. I take nothing from Jason on the craftsmanship.

However, three diagonal braces are missing from the 4X4 support posts.

No contractor would build the second floor, okay, there may be one out there, out over the first wall. It would make more sense to use the diagonal braces up against the walls of the first floor and to the bottom of a support beam under the second floor instead of the 4X4 support posts.

What happens if a car/truck hits the 4X4 post next to the gas pump? The entire corner of the second story walls will come tumbling down not to mention the fire involved in the crash.

Again, a beautifully build model but implausible construction.

I could go on but hopefully my point is taken. I'm sure I offended some person and that is not my intent. I'm only pointing out that a model should be believable in all aspects including correct construction.

I've seen many models beautifully built but still missing some very basic details that make the model plausible.

Okay, I'm moving on to my build but I do want to hear from others on the subject.

[Rollin]

Another way to look at this is to imagine a building that no contractor would ever build. In the 1:1 world, details of diagonal bracing would be on every post considered a support post. My DeGraw's deck and post framing is such an example.





Here is the example I mention as not having the correct diagonal bracing on the shed support posts.

I agree with Tom about correct construction. Unless you'll modeling a decrepit shack that is in a state of collapse, your structure should 'make sense.'

Note in his version (1st picture) the middle posts are directly over the upright timbers which support the decking of the platform. In the 2nd picture, these same posts are only supported by the planking of the deck, because the spacing of the big supports is different.

[ACL1504]

I agree with Tom about correct construction. Unless you'll modeling a decrepit shack that is in a state of collapse, your structure should 'make sense.'

Note in his version (1st picture) the middle posts are directly over the upright timbers which support the decking of the platform. In the 2nd picture, these same posts are only supported by the planking of the deck, because the spacing of the big supports is different.

Rollin,

Thanks for following along the comment. I appreciate the feedback.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Let's move on to the build.

I've spent a few hours going over Jason's photos and the parts in the kit. Each one of KC's Workshop kits is great in them selves. All combined as Jason did is really a very unique and eye catching structure.

The basic concept works for me but I see many different versions of it in my mind. As many of you know, I like to put my own spin on models.

If you intend to build Jason's model as he did, don't look for any instructions other than the ones for each individual kit. However, if you spend some time looking at Jason's pictures, the kit will actually look much less complicated and how he did it will be clear.

[ACL1504]

After looking at the kit, I decided to make extra walls for my own use. I like the look of Goober's Service & Towing and didn't want to use those original walls. The peaked ends would need removing so this would prevent me from building Goober's later on.

I started by taking a large piece of clapboard, overlap siding or what ever you call it. I'll refer to it as clapboard. You can buy these directly from Northeastern Lumber in larger sheets than are available from the local hobby shops.

I purchased mine from George Sellios on my only visit. The sheet shown below is about 6"W X 17"L.



When you copy a wall section, turn the large piece over and place the original pieces face down on the back of the copy material.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Using a sharp #2 pencil, I traced the original walls onto the larger sheet.



I then drew a line across the top of the two large sections of Goober's. This line is where I will cut the top gabled end off.

NOTE:  You only need to remove the gabled end on front section - this would be the one with the large square window on the left side as you view the front wall section.

In the photo below, it is the one on the right.




More in a few.

[ACL1504]

In the next photo you will see it marked as the front wall. This is incorrect, it is in fact the rear wall.

I took one wall section from the Utility Shed and measured up from the top of the larger wall as shown below. This will be the height of my second story.



I don't plan on using the board and batten walls for my second story. I'll cut new walls from the clapboard siding for my second story.

Micro Mark sells a tool for cutting corners. They refer to this tool as a 5/16" Corner Punch.

This is how it is used to start the cutting process of the corners.



I don't like this tool and instead use new/sharp #11 Xacto blades to cut my new walls, door and window openings.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Here is the finished product of my new walls. The original walls are on the top and my walls are on the bottom.



More later this afternoon. I have some 1:1 things to do first.

[vinceg]

Neat - scratchbuilding tutorial. I totally need this.

thx!