Bar Mills Mooney's Plumbing

[vinceg]

I really like the color and effect of the walls. Reminds me of the FSM Tannery finish using Floquil. I would never have guessed you could do that with water-based paints. Excellent, excellent, excellent.

[ReadingBob]

Looks like a mistake was made when manufacturing this wall. The clapboard is going up instead of down. Its the rear of the structure and it won't be seen so I'll leave it be. I also cut a chunk out of the upper right corner when I was cutting the bracing.

Ah...that brings back memories.  When I was building Sokol's I ran into a wall that was cut with the clapboard going up instead of down.  I didn't realize it until I was ready to add it to the structure.  It was underneath an overhang so it wouldn't have been noticeable.  My first thought was to just leave it as it.  But I knew and eventually gave in and replaced it.   

Your build looks terrific so far.  Thanks for sharing.  I'm enjoying the journey and picking up some new tricks.   

[SteveCuster]

Thanks everyone.

Vince, I've always liked the color scheme of Barongoulds. Blue can be a little bit scary for me. I think a blue structure can really stand out in a bad way if the wrong shade is used. I bought every Apple Barrel blue from Wal-Mart and experimented till I found a shade I was comfortable with. The nice thing is they are $.50 a piece so you can buy the whole rack for about $20.00.

I made a little more progress today.


I glued the walls together and weathered the sign a little more using chalks.


This is the bracing I added.


I prefer to add the roofing with the roof glued down. I glued the dormers on the roof card at this point. I was not real happy with the gap between the dormer and the roof.


In the past I'd use some white glue darkened with black paint to make tar and fill this area but it always comes out sloppy especially if I'm filling in a large gap. Lately I've been using construction paper to make flashing. In reality the flashing is bent at a 90 degree angle with half under the roofing and half over the siding. I only model the part that comes up on the siding.


I trim it in place once it dries with a sharp razor.


The rear dormer had a really nasty gap due to an error I made cutting the corner trim.


I used the same technique to cover up the gap. I also weathered the flashing with some brown chalks. The flashing is a little bigger here to cover it but once the roofing material is on it should blend in nicely.

Thanks for checking in. Hopefully I'll get a chance to tackle the roofing tonight.

[Lynnb]

I just went through this working on the Baileys kit and decided to follow the instructions with the paint and glue mix, it will be interesting to see how you complete the flashing.

[PRR Modeler]

Really nice modeling Steve. I'm leery of using the really bright colors also. What a great idea about the flashing, I'll be giving this a try on my next build.

[jerryrbeach]

Steve,


This is really nice modeling.  I am close to terrified of using blue on a structure.  Yours looks great!  I sometimes use paper flashing, too.  I paint mine with a dark gray or dark silver to represent galvanized flashing.  Once it is installed it is easy to add some rust in varying degrees.  I really enjoy following your threads, I always learn things I can use to become a better modeler.

[SteveCuster]

Thanks everyone. for following along.

Lynn, Some of the FSM kits George has you mix grimy black with epoxy. It fills gaps better but for me it ends up with chunky looking tar that's also very shiny and sometimes difficult to dull down. I prefer Gallery Glass Liquid Leading Black to simulate tar. Its thick and flat and comes out of the tube the right color. I built Bailey's a long time ago but I believe in that kit George is using Elmers glue mixed with Polly-S Grimy Black? Muxh easier to dull down than Epoxy.

Thanks Curt, I took the flashing idea from Brett Gallant. It's one of the techniques used in O'Neills Fabrication. I've been using it ever since.

Thanks Jerry, I'm glad you're following along. I think I spend more time experimenting with colors than I actually do building kits. I try a few colors out on a piece of scrap clapboard and fully weather them to see which one will work for me. I usually come back the next day and choose one. Gray, dark silver, dark green all work out well for the flashing. Its a super easy technique and it works pretty well.

I made a little progress today on the roof. The roof consists of peel and stick paper strips similar to a stick on label from Staples.


The peel and stick is very fast to apply. Even with the cuts around the dormers it only took me a few minutes to do the whole roof.


I colored the roofing with Apple Barrel 21490E Pavement. It's very similar to Grimy Black or Weathered Black Floquil.


Before I installed the roofing I needed to bevel the edges of the front and rear walls to match the peaked profile. Everyone has a technique for doing this and it's pretty standard on craftsman kits but I figured I'd show how I do it.


I've used a sanding block in the past but I prefer a piece of 120 grit laid flat on my glass workbench.



Pretty basic stuff but if the roof doesn't sit flat it will ruin any model. This and tight corner joints make or break a model in my opinion.


I had to sand it a little bit more but it looks good to me here

I added this little clapboard triangle section to the end of the front dormer. The peaked dormer roof actually comes over the top of the main roof.

Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

[rpdylan]

looking great Steve!  Yes, I agree that the liquid leading product from Gallery Glass makes nice "tar".  Its all I use nowadays

[Dave K.]

Looking great! Ditto on the Liquid Leading...my go-to for severa years, now.  That shade of blue was familiar to my eye, and realized it's what I used on my first-ever build...Revelia Srorage from Bar Mills. Wow...about 15 years ago or so? I know I have it somewhere...I need to go find it.  Great thread!

[Lynnb]

Looks great , i can't believe the signage , really looks painted on.

[SteveCuster]

Thanks guys.

Lynn, I sanded the back of the sign to make it a little thinner, cut along along with the clapboard once it was in place then I used my fingernail in press it into the clapboards.

I made a little more progress over the weekend. Lots of Christmas stuff coming up with the kids so I didn't have a ton of time.


I wanted to do something different with the roof. I used some scale 2x2s to cover up the seams. I wasn't really happy with the unfinished wood look.


I decided to paint all the wood on the roof to match. I think the unfinished wood looks good on a shed or some type of barn structure but it looks unfinished with all the blue and white coloring.


I painted and added on all the rafter tails. These are laser cut and I colored them the same as the windows. 1 coat of A&I, white paint dabbed on with a stiff straight brush followed by another A&I wash. All of the coloring was done prior to removing them from the laser cut sheet.




I dusted the roof with some dark brown chalk. I'll add some more weathering later once I add the chimneys and the water tank.



Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

[Opa George]

Very nice work, Steve. The roof in particular looks authentic and to scale.
--George

[vinceg]

Yes, looks very good. I also like the colored battens. Will have to remember that when I build FSM Avram

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice roofing.

[jimmillho]

Now, that's a cool looking roof.

Jim