Magnuson Union Ave Freight Terminal - 2019 Tom Schwarz Build Challenge

[Oldguy]

Now it is time to tackle the small walkway from the side door that will lead to the track side dock.  For some reason, this door is about a scale 8" lower than the dock.  Whereas the dock levels are even with the dock thresholds, this area needs to be located below the threshold.  After the frame was built, it is a matter of using a couple pieces of scrap 2 by material to determine the height needed for the support posts.  Once this has been determined, it was back to the magnetic jig.  Once the test support was placed, it is just a matter of securing the triangle to establish the ground level and cut and glue the remaining supports.  And yes, I noticed that somehow I misjudged the walkway depth.  This was fixed by using the True Sander.

[Oldguy]

Now that the walkway was ready, it was time to tackle making the needed steps.  Plan A - use a pre-made stringer from A-West and a 2x12.  That was a complete disaster as the wood kept splitting.  Okay, plan B.  Use some scrap wood squares and draw the needed riser and tread dimensions.  I used my old PFM  HO scale vernier caliper to get as accurate measurements as possible.  The vernier scale allows measurements to 1/4".  As shown below, it is set to 7", my riser height.  I wound up having to transfer the caliper dimensions to a set of dividers, then move the triangle to set the horizontal or vertical dimensions, then cut the wood.   That was also a disaster.  Plan C - Do the same thing as B, but in plastic and make a jig since I'm going to nee three stringers. I marked the scribe line in pencil, so I could see where the scribed lines were.  Another disaster.  The .040" plastic split as well.

[Oldguy]

Okay, I still need stairs with an 10" tread and 7" rise.  So what do I have that I could use that the railroad would have plenty on hand.  Hmmm - how about old railroad ties?  Laid on end?  These may look a bit clunky, but it works.  I'll let everything set and see what it looks like tomorrow.

[Oldguy]

As you can tell I have fallen in hobby-love with my old magnetic jig.  It's not the Micro Mart version, but the original one; the makers name is stamped in it.  I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on.  I did get some magnetic cabinet door latches which hold even better that the supplied magnets and form a square corner where ever I need one along either side. 

Speaking of square - Over the years I have collected over a dozen triangles from 3" metal to over 18" plastic ones.  From Dietzgen to Post to Sears; 45º and 30/60/90 versions.  And just recently I have I checked to see if they all truly had a 90º angle.  Come to find out that I had two that didn't.  One plastic and one metal.  These are now marked as bad and will be used only for straight line needs.  Interesting enough, none of the 45s or the 30/60 angles were off.  Just the 90s.

[bparrish]

Bob...........
Thank you for your remarks of your last post on this thread.

We spend too much time depending on measurement devices that are easily checked for accuracy.
Take the square that you have on your work bench.  Draw a line that represents 90 degrees.  Then flip it over and see if it matches from the other side.


This sounds like an over simplification ............. but try it ! ! !

Bob is right .......... there are a lot of measurement scales and rules that are just not accurate.

To go on............. Bob.......... you use a term that is only reserved for true machinists.

I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on.


Only a true machinist uses the term............ dead nuts ! ! ! !

I have NEVER heard this term anywhere else.

Thank you my friend for being part of the fraternity  ! ! !

see ya............... yet another
Bob

[Oldguy]

Bob...........
Thank you for your remarks of your last post on this thread.

We spend too much time depending on measurement devices that are easily checked for accuracy.
Take the square that you have on your work bench.  Draw a line that represents 90 degrees.  Then flip it over and see if it matches from the other side.


This sounds like an over simplification ............. but try it ! ! !

Bob is right .......... there are a lot of measurement scales and rules that are just not accurate.

To go on............. Bob.......... you use a term that is only reserved for true machinists.

I did check the 90º corner and it is dead nuts on.


Only a true machinist uses the term............ dead nuts ! ! ! !

I have NEVER heard this term anywhere else.

Thank you my friend for being part of the fraternity  ! ! !

see ya............... yet another
Bob

You got me sailing under a false flag.  I was an Electricians Mate First Class in the Navy and as such worked a lot with the Machinist Mates in the engine rooms.  That's where I picked it up and it just stuck with me over the years.

[Oldguy]

My first foray using Pan Pastels on large surfaces.  The roof isn't as green as it looks.  I got the streaking by using the foam block that came with the pastel kits.  It removed the some of the ochre laid over the gray.
I added the small deck and stairs leading to it.  That left me with a rather large step up to the loading dock.  To find the height, I used the depth gauge part of the caliper and it measured close to 10".  Sorry for the out of focus shot. 

Another tool rant.  When buying these tools, look at the depth rod.  It should be ground with the main body.  Not cut before assembly.  Although one can bottom the depth rod and reset the zero point, if using a dial or digital model and then take the measurement, but one shouldn't have to in the first place.

[Oldguy]

I made a step by using some left over stair tread and then taking some scrap wood to form a riser.  I painted the riser black so it couldn't be seen.  Since the main set of stairs are close to 6' wide. I realized I need a handrail.  I wanted t attach it to the building, but the window lintel was in the way.  I found some thin, but stiff wire and formed a center handrail, which is more appropriate anyway.  I found the center of the deck, drilled an .025" hole on the top of the deck and into bottom step.  A quick coat of metallic sterling paint and instant galvanized handrail.
It wasn't until after I took a photo did I realize that my used railroad tie step supports looks more like concrete than wood.  I need to fix that tomorrow.  Here's what's done so far and 95% done.

[Janbouli]

Looking great  Bob , how did you do the roof with Panpastels , just wipe it on with that piece of foam? Does it come off very easily , do you have to fixate it?

[Oldguy]

Looking great  Bob , how did you do the roof with Panpastels , just wipe it on with that piece of foam? Does it come off very easily , do you have to fixate it?

What I did was first brushed on some gray pastel (light gray I think) over the entire roof.  Then I went over that with the ochre, but it looked way to yellow.  In the kits of pan pastels there was a container of several sponges (?) one which looked like an eraser. Kinda like these - https://www.dickblick.com/products/panpastel-sofft-tools/
I went to remove the ochre and it started to streak.  Just start at the top and gently wipe down.  Stop when it appeals to you.  Since the roof is 220 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper, one is wiping off the surface leaving most of what is next to the grit. 

I need to try a light brown over a similar material  just to see if it streaks the same way.
I looked at Google maps for the west bottoms of KCMO and found some old buildings that had similar roofing, and most look white to light gray with hardly and weathering, even though the roofs are decades old.  Look around 10th to 13th along Union and 11th & Hickory, to see what I mean.

[PRR Modeler]

Nice modeling Bob.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Outstanding modeling!  The wood dock boards are so well done, nice variations but not overdone.  Likewise, the roofing looks great, I think the pan pastels used on the sandpaper really worked well.  Steps came out great, and the mortar really stands out against the brick.  You have done a wonderful job with this kit.


As far as the tool rant...  Yikes.  I would never have expected such a miscue from NWSL.  I watched one of these scale calipers on ebay, but it went for well over $50 and I decided to save my money and stay with my old caliper and a scale conversion chart.   Now, I'm really glad I did.

[Janbouli]

Thanks Bob , answered all my questions , going to try this out .

[Oldguy]

Bob,


Outstanding modeling!  The wood dock boards are so well done, nice variations but not overdone.  Likewise, the roofing looks great, I think the pan pastels used on the sandpaper really worked well.  Steps came out great, and the mortar really stands out against the brick.  You have done a wonderful job with this kit.


As far as the tool rant...  Yikes.  I would never have expected such a miscue from NWSL.  I watched one of these scale calipers on ebay, but it went for well over $50 and I decided to save my money and stay with my old caliper and a scale conversion chart.   Now, I'm really glad I did.

Thanks for the praise.  Having not built a kit close to 3 decades, it's nice getting back to the bench.
I might have mislead you a bit.  My PFM HO scale calipers are accurate as all get out (I'll keep off the machinist's inside lingo for awhile).  They are by Mitutoyo, so no quality issues there.  The photo that I showed with the poor depth rod was a digital caliper that I bought at a train show.  I failed to really look at them closely.

[deemery]

I use cheap makeup wedge-shaped sponges for applying Pan Pastels.  They work great, and they're MUCH cheaper than the Pan Pastel applicators.  It's also worth getting the pointy-tipped makeup applicators, those are good for working Pan Pastels into a corner.


dave