Shadowlands and Tellynott

[Mark Dalrymple]

Thank you very much for following along Jerry and Rick.

Cheers, Mark.

[jbvb]

I hadn't checked your thread for a while, but I'm very taken with your trees. New Zealand pines are very different from New England's but your techniques will suit big, old, open-grown hardwoods like oak.

[Mark Dalrymple]

I hadn't checked your thread for a while, but I'm very taken with your trees. New Zealand pines are very different from New England's but your techniques will suit big, old, open-grown hardwoods like oak.

Thanks James.

I don't know if he was first to come up with these techniques, but I first saw them employed by Gordon Gravett, and he used them to construct such trees.  He has written two books on the topic, Modelling trees part 1 & 2.  Part 1 is on modelling broadleaf trees, part 2 on conifers.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Just a quick note to let you all know I have added a table of contents on page 1.  I will update this as I progress with this thread.  This should make it much easier to find certain builds, techniques, tutorials, etc. - for me and you all!

Cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

I hadn't checked your thread for a while, but I'm very taken with your trees. New Zealand pines are very different from New England's but your techniques will suit big, old, open-grown hardwoods like oak.

Thanks James.

I don't know if he was first to come up with these techniques, but I first saw them employed by Gordon Gravett, and he used them to construct such trees.  He has written two books on the topic, Modelling trees part 1 & 2.  Part 1 is on modelling broadleaf trees, part 2 on conifers.

Cheers, Mark.

I have those books.  They're great, but his techniques are for foreground trees.

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Well, we had a 2fatpossums meet in my garage over the last weekend in July, and, as usual, I wanted a project to sink my teeth into.  I tried to keep on track, working around both the winter challenge and the track laying in Tellynott, and so decided on the high wharf.  I've had a photo of the wharf at Echuca in northern Victoria, Australia, pinned to the front of the layout in this position for years.  recently, I decided to move the wharf back a few inches to allow room for a tramp steamer in front and I also simplified the track.  There is now a single track that curves onto the wharf at left and then runs straight along the wharf, parallel to the front and then off the wharf at right where it services my kitbash of Hermanson's mill.

Photo 1 - Here is some of the wood after staining.  I used my Campbell wharf kit for a fair chunk of the timber and will use the decking board provided in the kit.  I spent a bit of time distressing this with a wire brush in my Dremel.  I had to add bracing timber and the longer piles to the materials in the Campbell kit.  I modified their bent design to fit my purposes.


Photo 2 - Shows the base.  It is 600mm x 250mm (24" x 10").  I used 3mm MDF with a piece of 4.75 MDF laminated on top towards the back and a piece of 40mm x 19mm pine to give it some strength and give some material to screw to from underneath the 16mm MDF baseboard.


Photo 3 - shows the first bent.  I drew up a plan on a piece of paper and covered in lunch paper.  This was correct for the first 8 bents from the right end.


Photo 4 - For the last four bents the track curved onto the wharf and so the position of the four piles under the track changed for each one.  I drew up a plan of the track piles on a piece of thin styrene and taped this over the original plan, moving it to the new correct position for bent numbers 9,10,11and 12.


Photo 5 - Here are the first four bents glued in position.  I cut up a triangle of black extruded polystyrene for the banked terrain underneath the wharf.  I cut this into sections approximately 2" long and used my razor saw to cut out around the piles.  Each piece was then glued into position after each bent.


Photo 6 - Here I am checking the height of the wharf against the existing benchwork on the layout.  Both ends were spot on.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Continuing...

Photo 7 - Here I am gluing the track in position.  I attached a piece of flextrack to the turnout at left and cut the other end a couple of inches past the wharf.  I used my Peco straight track spacer at the left end to keep the track in position.


Photo 8 - I set up a 2-foot metal rule to keep the track straight and parallel along the first 8 bents from the right end.


Photo 9 - shows a view of the entire wharf.  You can see I used a clamp to hold the left end of the long straight fast in position.  I eyeballed the curve, which looked fine, and then weighted it down.  I used Walther's foam tack glue to glue the code 75 Peco track to the wharf.


Photo 10 - a lower angle view.


Photo 11 - I used sculptamold to cover the extruded polystyrene.


Photo 12 - Back, clamped to my small desk in the garage.


I'm hoping to get under the wharf sceniced over the next few days and then I can carry on with the wharf construction at or annual TrainZ weekend in the middle of August.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Rick]

Mark, nice to see you back at it.
Great color on the wood and you've definitely done a great job building it considering how well it can hold all that weight.

[deemery]

That's a great approach for doing scenery underneath a trestle!

dave

[Philip]

Load tested tough! Looks great!