AMB LaserKit Silex grain elevator

Started by Oldguy, March 02, 2020, 09:25:49 PM

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Oldguy

Went through my grain elevator stash looking for one that will fit in an area 5.5" deep.  It's amazing how big some of those suckers are.  Anyway, I found this one.  A little plain Jane, but I have an idea to spruce up the outside a bit.
So here's the box and contents.  Yes, it is a laser cut styrene kit.  Clever how they cut in the panel lines for the corrugated siding and roofing. 

And yes, that is all of the instructions.  Easy Peasy.  Right? 

First step was to identify all the parts.  Some are real easy, some parts took a little fitting to see where they went.  I went ahead and numbered them.  Those parts in the bottom right are corner braces (never shown), two identical square pieces that I have no clue as to where they go, and another lone rectangular piece.  Later, I figured out that the last unknown bit must be a sliding door.  It isn't shown in the instructions, but in the box photo.
The long piece of corrugated material in the middle must be for the truck dump floor.  One must flip it over and use the smooth side.


Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

The concrete foundation is made up of four pieces of thick styrene; all different sizes.  What I did notice that three pieces had either one or two scribed lines.  So, it became apparent that one needed to square up one end, then cut at the line and then square that end.  I used a micro saw that I must say is a fantastic tool.  A little brittle, hence the broken end, but very thin and sharp.  These are no available from MicroMark

Being a laser kit, the cut outs for doors and windows are removed as with a laser wood kit.  But, being plastic, the underside ends can have some small blobs along the edges.  Not normally not a problem, but one needs to look carefully as to what parts get glued where, to determine which blobs need to be removed for a good fit.

No provisions are made for interior corner bracing/glue blocking.  In some of LaserKits other grain elevators they did add such bracing, so I guess they learned for their need.
But first, all pieces need to get a spritz of Tamiya gray primer.



Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

jerryrbeach


Bob,


This looks like an interesting build.  I'll be following along.
Jerry

PRR Modeler

I'll be following. I know sometimes their directions can leave something to be desired.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

GPdemayo

Interesting kit Bob.....I'll be looking in.  :)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

postalkarl


Oldguy

On a positive note, this kit has a covered back wall that gives me some play room.  I laid out some painters tape, cutting it into wide 1/2" strips that can then be cut to length.  I wanted to see if I could do some subtle rust.  And the answer is NO.
I need that little voice on my shoulder to tell me when enough is enough.  I just ran right through it.  So, I wonder if I could tone it down by adding some gray paint around the tops and dry brushing?  Hmmm now it seems washed out.

While I mull it over, I'll work on the sliding door.  The kit simply provides a cut piece of siding.  I dug through my scrap box and found left over fencing material.  Good enough to make a wooden door frame and enough parts to make a sliding door.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

I'm still deciding what to do about the siding.  I could repaint it all and start over, or should I just leave well enough alone.   What to do, what to do.  In the meantime I'll paint the doors and windows.  One thing thing about most double hung windows.  They pretty mu require glazing each sash.  At least the provided material was cut just to fit the opening.  So A quick measurement with the dividers, a straight edge and a razor blade, and done.

Install the newly built sliding door.  And continue to decide on the siding.  At this point, I'm pretty much thinking to leave it alone, as is, as I would most likely make things worse.  Call it a learning experience and try to be subtle on another build.
I did manage to add some glue blocks where needed.  I'm glad that I bought a couple of pounds of scrap plastic from Downtown Deco.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

MAP

Interesting kit for sure!  I'll be watching your progress Bob.
Mark

Janbouli

Following along Bob. You might try using a few more colors of rust and then giving it a wash of black to tone it down or brush with some powders.
I love photo's, don't we all.

jerryrbeach


Bob,


I'm with Jan.  I think some darker rust along the bottom of the panels might help it look better.  I might use a gray or grayish wash on top.  Jason Jensen has some really good videos on using washes.  You might check out this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od4g4lKnV-o   or this one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SBGHa-JPFg   I found both helpful. 
Jerry

Oldguy

Thanks for the replies.  I have watched most of Jason's videos and he does good work.  My execution sucks pond water. 

What I was going after, believe or not is shown below.  That and Tom Johnson's marvelous work, also below.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

GPdemayo

Hey Bob.....the only thought I have is about the uniformity.

In the real world I haven't observed unpainted, galvanized corrugated siding rusting in a uniform manner. So maybe the answer is to lighten up and/or darken some of the wall.  :)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Oldguy

Quote from: GPdemayo on March 07, 2020, 09:27:42 AM
Hey Bob.....the only thought I have is about the uniformity.

In the real world I haven't observed unpainted, galvanized corrugated siding rusting in a uniform manner. So maybe the answer is to lighten up and/or darken some of the wall.  :)
You are absolutely correct.  There is a hidden wall, or at least a wall that can't be seen, that I tired to correct my mistook.  It isn't happening.  I'm just going to press on, and finish it. Just as well to leave it alone as I was gluing it all together and came to the side roofs.  Ummmm, they don't meet squarely.  At the peak the overlap is crooked.  That means the center portion is off.  The lower portion of the building is square, so how in the hel . . . . . . . ?  Oh well.
The back wall is corrugated on one side only.  The plans have the corrugations facing away, leaving the blank white styrene towards the viewer.  I originally was going to replace this completely with a true pole barn finish.  That is poles and girts with corrugated metal siding.  Now, I'll just glue on corrugated siding for the portions that can be seen and call it good.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

ReadingBob

Fun build (to follow along with anyway  ;) ).  Great discussion on simulating rust patterns on the siding.  Something I've been experimenting with for quite some time and still haven't figured out.  Thanks for sharing the build with us and keep up the great work!  :D
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

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