The Atlantic and Southern Build, Part 1

[ACL1504]

I painted the side walls on the new scratch build. I used Scalecoat for the walls. The color I chose is Terra-Cotta. This is a new color for Scalecoat paint.




I used a 1/4" brush to apply the paint. I dipped the tip of the brush in the paint and then dipped it in Scalecoat thinner. I brushed the thinned paint on the walls. While the paint was still damp, I used a paper towel to wipe off all I could. I wiped horizontally with the wood and not vertically.



After finishing both walls and prior to the Terra-Cotta paint drying, I repeated the process with full strength Floquil Driftwood.

There is quite a difference in the color. The color, after the driftwood, is very much like very faded paint. Here is how it looks so you get an idea of the difference.



Continued in an hour or so. Time to put the burgers and chicken on the grill. Also, time for an ice cold Diet Pepsi.

[postalkarl]

Hi Tom:

Is this paint flat? If so do they make other flat colors. I thought all their paint was glossy.

Thanks:

karl

[ACL1504]

Hi Tom:

Is this paint flat? If so do they make other flat colors. I thought all their paint was glossy.

Thanks:

karl

Karl,

Great question. I have no idea. I tried it on some scrap Northeastern and Kappler scribed siding with the same results. It appears to be flat out of the bottle. Not taking into consideration the "wet" look when applied.

I currently have RR Grime #1, (looks like a match to Aged Concrete), RR Grime #2(kind of gray green), Sand, MOW Gray, and on back order is Ivory and Cream. All appear to be flat when dry.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Here is a look at the walls when completely dry. The color is very faded as I mentioned and the sheen is flat.

No A&I has been applied at all, nor is there any dry brushing.



I just have the pieces leaning on each other in the next photo. The bay door actually goes on the other side.



I also added a gable end to the sign wall and the other gable is drying under the weights. The two standing walls are being glued as well.



This structure has 25 windows. I'm ordering them from Tichy.

[Janbouli]

I think if you put it on thin enough every paint will look flat on wood, I have spray painted structures with gloss paint and it is flat if I don't put layer after layer on.

The green and red on Mel's was done with a gloss spray can. Just one spray though, so the wood sucks it up , dead flat.

[ACL1504]

I think if you put it on thin enough every paint will look flat on wood, I have spray painted structures with gloss paint and it is flat if I don't put layer after layer on.

The green and red on Mel's was done with a gloss spray can. Just one spray though, so the wood sucks it up , dead flat.

Jan,

I think you may be correct in that the wood soaks up the paint to prevent the build up for the gloss.

Tom

[RWL]

Tom & Karl

Scalecoat does have a series of flats (basic flat colors) that were contracted by Jeff Adam of Motrak Models a few years ago. Since the sale of Scalecoat by Minuteman from Weaver, I think Shawn has expanded the series to more colors.

Bob

[ACL1504]

Tom & Karl

Scalecoat does have a series of flats (basic flat colors) that were contracted by Jeff Adam of Motrak Models a few years ago. Since the sale of Scalecoat by Minuteman from Weaver, I think Shawn has expanded the series to more colors.

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the information. I forgot Jeff had the extra colors.

Tom

[ACL1504]

This morning I had to remove a short section of mainline track.

The track had a kink at the rail joiners. I tried to repair it in place but gave up to get it correct.

I removed a five inch section.



Prior to removing the track I made four rail cuts five inches, 2.5", on each side of the rail joiners.

I then wet the ballast with a misting of warm water and let is sit for 20 minutes. I then used a #11 blade to cut the ballast down the sides of the ties. The track came out easy peasy,



I got a short section of left over track. I never throw away any track of three inches or more. Unless of course it is damaged.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I cut the new piece to fit in the opening.



I use code 83 track. For rail joiners I use Atlas code 55 "N" scale rail joiners. They give me a nice tight fit as opposed to the code 83 rail joiners.



I cut the rail joiners very close to the ends.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I push the end ties in towards the center and slip on the rail joiners. I fit the rail joiners flush with the ends of the rails.



The track is then put in place and the rail joiners are slid onto the other four rails.





The ties are then pushed out and adjusted. I use a 9 inch Ribbon Rail to align the track.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Once I'm satisfied with the alignment, I remove the Ribbon Rail and use a couple of ME track spikes to secure the track.

I then use my level car to ensure the rails are level.



I then soldered the feeders back to the rails.

Tomorrow I'll fill in the ties and add new ballast.

[BandOGuy]

Tom & Karl

Scalecoat does have a series of flats (basic flat colors) that were contracted by Jeff Adam of Motrak Models a few years ago. Since the sale of Scalecoat by Minuteman from Weaver, I think Shawn has expanded the series to more colors.
Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the information. I forgot Jeff had the extra colors.

Tom

Hope this helps.
From Model Railroad Hobbyist, you might find this link helpful: http://mrhpub.com/2016-08-aug/online/ Might save some time and aggravation.

[RWL]

Tom,

Jeff no longer carries Scalecoat since the company was sold, strictly Minuteman now.

Bob

[ACL1504]

Tom,

Jeff no longer carries Scalecoat since the company was sold, strictly Minuteman now.

Bob

Okay, thanks - I didn't know that.