Evergreen Hill Designs - Shenandoah Crossing

[Oldguy]

I am looking at trying to put this little bugger together.  However, I found that my set of instructions are mixed.  I have a full set that goes from preamble through step 21, but these appear to be basic.  Then there is another set that begins with the last paragraph of step 11 through step 29.  Two different sets of detail sheets using the same detail numbers, but for different items. 


Anyone have a full set of instructions for EHD-201a?  I'm guessing it would go straight through through steps 29 with different detail sheets.  There are two kit versions, a and b.  The main difference is the "a" kit has 125 castings while the "b" kit has 41.

[Oldguy]

I did contact the folks at EHD and found out that yes, I am missing one full sheet.  Hopefully I can get it in short order.
This kit is actually a two-fer.  One section can be a stand alone structure, the Emporium.  The second section, Shenandoah Crossing is a gas station and garage.  They even separate instruction sheets.

So whats in the box?  First up 22 baggies of castings.  Three different types of roofing - Shingles, corrugated metal, and rolled roofing (sandpaper).  There are two colored cards for the "paint" on the walls. And some nice signs.

Then there are templates,  A ton of templates.  Some are patterns, some are roof decks, side walls, but some are wood siding cutting patterns.  The patterns were to be overlaid on the precut siding and as you cut out the pattern, the wood is cut simultaneously.  Um, no.  Some patterns weren't square and I wanted to start some walls with a full piece of lap.

Then there is a piece of cleat acetate for windows and a nicely gold printed Emporium sign.  But wait.  There''s more.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Great timing on my part.  I arrived in time for a front row seat!  I've always been enamored with this kit, but it doesn't come close to typical for the area I model.  Now I get to live vicariously thru your thread.  So looking forward to your build!

[Oldguy]

See all those lines on the patterns?  Those are for placing 2x4's.  The guidelines are dashed as they indicate the 2x4s go on the backside.  The separate wood bundle is all 2x4s.

After two days of cutting out the patterns, I got 'er all cut.  Next up transferring all those lines to the correct side of the walls.  And yes, even using masking tape on the backside, I managed to break off some thin areas.

One thing that is going to get interesting, is that the siding is mainly 1/32" thick.  Considering the amount of interior detail parts, the roof is going to be removable, so no obvious bracing.  So, I'll go weathering powders/chalk for "paint" on the walls.  Interior wood framing, I'll leave natural wood.  In the big world, studs not exposed to daylight for 20-30 years will remain a light color, so no A&I bath.  And with the walls being thin, none for them either.

More card stock for roof decks and foundations plus a lightly embossed sheet of concrete block.  This will be replaced.


On a good  note, the Emporium patterns are numbered while the Crossing parts are identified by letters.  However, not all are identified on the plan sheet.  It took a little while to figure what the  extra numbered/lettered parts were for.

Thankfully, they did include an inventory of detail parts as I had no idea what some were.  For example, there is a coat tree.  It took awhile to figure that one out.  Same for a water cooler.  These appear to be SSLtd parts, so I can reference what they should look like.

Because of the extra steps needed just to get a wall part, extra care is need to ensure that opposing walls are the same length and height.  Same when adding the 2x4s at the end of walls.  Some are to be inset, while others need to be flush the end. 


This kit has no corner posts.  Not sure as yet, if I'll add my own or not.

I am sure getting my money's worth from the Geoffrey Bishop squaring jig.  It works perfectly to aid in alignment for transferring lines, adding nail holes, etc.  I did cut up an old cutting mat so I could cut on the jug without dulling the knives as fast.

[Oldguy]

Bob,


Great timing on my part.  I arrived in time for a front row seat!  I've always been enamored with this kit, but it doesn't come close to typical for the area I model.  Now I get to live vicariously thru your thread.  So looking forward to your build!

Glad to have you along.  I understand, your reluctance as many decent kit manufacturers seem to favor the east coast or multistory buildings.

I originally wanted to change the siding to brick, but all brick sheets are 1/8", way to thick for this use.  But as I model Midwest, there were a ton of small town wooden, false front buildings, so I decided it was time for me to build this kit.  I can tell, it'll be ugly.

[Keep It Rusty]

Looks to be a tricky little kit. Job well done so far. Following along!

[PRR Modeler]

I'm following along.

[ReadingBob]

Gee, I missed this one some how.  Glad I found it.  Looks like quite a challenge and neat looking structure.  I'm along for the ride.   

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looks like a great kit, Bob - with a good amount of metal castings.

As an aside, Wills do brick siding in several different bonds which would be no more than 1/16" in thickness.  You get four sheets in a packet 5 1/4" by 3".  Being English it is OO scale so the bricks are slightly oversized, but personally I don't think you notice (bricks come in different sizes anyway).  They paint and weather up very well.

I'll be watching your progress on this one - might even check out the kit.

Cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

The N Scale Architect has thin styrene brick sheets for HO in several different bond styles. 


dave

[Oldguy]

I need to acknowledge the time and assistance of Ken Bettis, owner of Evergreen Hills design LLC.  He came up with the revised instructions for the Emporium.  I was missing one page, but it was easier just to e-mail me the whole bunch.  He did mention that he was looking into reproducing this kit, but it would be laser cut. 


I fiddled with coloring.  Light colors of Pan Pastels or weathering powders, such as white is hard to show up on bare wood.  I did find that by first spraying on a coat of Dullcoat, helps.  And after each color application, spray more Dullcoat,, add more color, spray on Dullcoat, etc. until satisfied with the color depth.  Most of the color swatches shown are pan pastels.  Only the white were dullcoated.  I was going to have the Emporium a weathered white with gray windows, but then I remembered that the inside is going to be seen, so the window interiors need to be white.  I'll now use a gray for the body and white for the windows (including interior window trim).  Thanks goodness for all the trim pieces that allow me to test out coloring.

The Crossing will have a darker front while the garage will be browns, inside and out.

So, now's the time to add the 2x4 framing.  There's top and bottom plates, window and door framing, blocking, etc.  The provide the placement lines that was transferred to the reverse side of the walls.  I found it was better to start at one end and work your way across, so that small triangles can be use to ensure vertical orientation.   Two of the garage walls have the 2x4s gong to the edges, which requires the other two walls to have their 2x4s fall a scale 7" short.  It was more of a matter of framing the full width wall, and use it to determine the inset of the other two walls.  I forgot just how tedious this all was.  Here is one final wall.  And now that I look at it, I wonder how hard would it be to actually add the window headers and jack studs?  On the other hand, the typical 2x10 headers probably weren't used back then and it's too late to add the jack studs.  Most likely for the best.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Adding the studs is tedious, but looks great.  I agree with your comment about the non-use of headers in older construction.  When I applied new sheathing to my 120+ year old house there were no headers above the windows, and only a couple 2x4's spiked together over the doors.  You are putting a lot of effort into this and I'm enjoying my look over your shoulder.

[PRR Modeler]

The framing looks great.

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

Looks like you are off to a good start. I'm following along.

Karl

[Oldguy]

Continued with framing.  Slowly discovering some issues that I needed to address.  First up was the garage roof. false front framing interface.  As it designed, with a removable roof, the roof edge would hit the 2x4s that make up the false front framing on the back.  Forming a pocket.  And it bothers me to no end.  The solution was to add a second slanted 2x4, spaced 2" from the other.  Then add the vertical pieces.  The intent is that this new piece will form a meeting edge.  When the shingles and this are get a coating of "tar" the space should disappear.  To some extent.

There is another joint just like this on the other roof, but a bit more problematic.  There is a set of templates that make up a roof former to hold the two roof section together.  Unfortunately, the instructions have one put the walls together and then tweak the templates for a better fit.  But I can't put the walls together until I figure out the joint where the roof meets the walls.  Stay tuned.