Durango Press Newspaper Office as a Photographer's Studio

[Jerry]

Jerry I like the light weathering you got on those walls.  Well done.

Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looks great, Jerry.

Goes well with the green windows, too.

Cheers, Mark.

[jerryrbeach]

Jerry I like the light weathering you got on those walls.  Well done.

Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks.  I have found using a stencil brush with its stiffer bristles helps me to get that type of weathered look.  I appreciate you checking in.

[jerryrbeach]

Looks great, Jerry.

Goes well with the green windows, too.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Thank you.  Not sure if I have mentioned it to this group, but I find planning and executing structure colors to be a challenge.  I get my best ideas by driving through small towns and taking photos of color schemes that just seem to "work". 

[jerryrbeach]

Moving on to a major mistake...  I have found when I am planning to have a detailed interior it works best for me to make the floor removable.  My normal procedure is to build the floor from Masonite.  I scored some part sheets of Masonite for free several years ago and I like it because it is a uniformly dense material.  In other words, no wood grain to worry about.  Once I have the walls braced I have the exact dimensions for the interior floor.  At this point I cut a piece for the interior floor as well as a slightly larger piece to represent the (often omitted from kits) foundation. 

So, what was the major mistake?  For some reason I simply cannot explain I glued the front wall to the foundation. The photos tell the story.  Well after the glue has set, and I used the yellow waterproof carpenter's glue, I realized what I had done.  At that point I knew I had to rethink how I was going to proceed with construction.  It did not take me long to figure out the only way to continue without starting over was to make the roof assembly removable.  

I also cannot explain why after failing to take photos of several construction steps, I fully documented this (and then some).  I'm going to stop here today and get back to my workbench and continue working on this building. 

[PRR Modeler]

Great looking progress.

[Mark Dalrymple]

I find planning and executing structure colors to be a challenge.  I get my best ideas by driving through small towns and taking photos of color schemes that just seem to "work".
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Jerry - We did this when choosing colours for our first villa.  After driving to a fancy neighbourhood we drove around with paint chits in hand matching to our favourite colour schemes.  (check out the Queens English (perhaps that should be the King's English now...) in that sentence!)  It worked very well and I was always very happy with the colours on our own house (it hadn't had a coat of paint for decades, so anything would have been an improvement).

I bought a book A while back called 'Book of historic Australian Towns'.  It is filled with superb ideas for colour schemes - also brick colours and rusty metal.  Very handy and kind of my go to bible for colour now.

Cheers, Mark.

[ACL1504]

Jerry,

I like the color scheme you chose, looks good.

Here is how I remove glued items using the yellow carpenter's glue. I take a small eye dropper or pipette and warm water. I apply a little of the warm water to the glued area. The water will find its way to the glued area.

After about 20 minutes you can slowly and gently pull or pry the glued part apart. I've done this many times. The stained area will prevent a lot of water being soaked into the wood.

When apart, you'll notice the dried glue is now tacky and you can wipe this off. When dry, gently sand the glued parts to remove any remaining dry glue and start over.

Tom 

[jerryrbeach]

Great looking progress.

Thank you, Curt. 

[jerryrbeach]

I find planning and executing structure colors to be a challenge.  I get my best ideas by driving through small towns and taking photos of color schemes that just seem to "work".
QUOTE
MORE...

Jerry - We did this when choosing colours for our first villa.  After driving to a fancy neighbourhood we drove around with paint chits in hand matching to our favourite colour schemes.  (check out the Queens English (perhaps that should be the King's English now...) in that sentence!)  It worked very well and I was always very happy with the colours on our own house (it hadn't had a coat of paint for decades, so anything would have been an improvement).

I bought a book A while back called 'Book of historic Australian Towns'.  It is filled with superb ideas for colour schemes - also brick colours and rusty metal.  Very handy and kind of my go to bible for colour now.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

I have a book recommended by Dave Emery; Roger Moss's "Century of Color".   It helps, but I feel it is geared more toward urban homes while I am modeling small rural villages.  Hence, driving around through the rural countryside and looking  for simple but attractive color schemes.  I also have some paint company brochures I downloaded that are ca. 1920, so I can check that the color schemes I have chosen are close to available colors at the time.  Overthinking much???

[jerryrbeach]

Jerry,

I like the color scheme you chose, looks good.

Here is how I remove glued items using the yellow carpenter's glue. I take a small eye dropper or pipette and warm water. I apply a little of the warm water to the glued area. The water will find its way to the glued area.

After about 20 minutes you can slowly and gently pull or pry the glued part apart. I've done this many times. The stained area will prevent a lot of water being soaked into the wood.

When apart, you'll notice the dried glue is now tacky and you can wipe this off. When dry, gently sand the glued parts to remove any remaining dry glue and start over.

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for the kind words.  I knew I could use water or alcohol to disassemble a joint made with white glue.  For some reason I thought that was not possible to do the same with yellow glue.  Thank you for clearing that up for me.  That will be helpful moving forward as I am often prone to hurrying and making missteps when assembling a structure.  

[jerryrbeach]

Prior to assembling the the building I had planned to wallpaper the interior walls.  I did some digging on the internet and printed out what I thought would be good neutral wallpaper similar to what I had seen as a background in old photos.  Unfortunately, the three different patterns I downloaded and printed looked more like dirty walls than the look I was going for.  i then found and printed out what you see.  It was listed on the internet as being from ca. 1940, too new for my 1920 era, still I thought it looked appropriate.

Once again I got ahead of myself. I assembled the walls prior to putting a door in the rear wall that would lead to the darkroom in the rear.  I try to make a list of the steps when changing a kit from its design, i.e., adding an interior.  Obviously, I failed to do that in this instance.  At this point I decided a black curtain would have to do, so I made one from black tissue paper and glued it in place. 

I did frame the inside of the window openings with some styrene pieces to reflect the interior window molding.

[jerryrbeach]

My next step was to design and build a removable roof assembly, since my original plan for a removable floor was out the door.  Once again I used my old favorite, some Masonite to make the ceiling to fit between the top braces for the walls.  This gave me a ore or less flush ceiling.  More Masonite was cut following a cardboard template of the roof angle taken from the back wall.

 

[Zephyrus52246]

Nice looking interior so far.  You could just print a picture of a door and framing and glue it to the wall.  I doubt many would notice it's flat and not 3 D.

Jeff

[Mark Dalrymple]

Coming on nicely, Jerry.

Once again I used my old favorite, some Masonite

I use styrene for this - but I buy mine in large sheets from a local manufacturer - at about 1/10th of the cost of the hobby shop.

I also have some paint company brochures I downloaded that are ca. 1920, so I can check that the color schemes I have chosen are close to available colors at the time.  Overthinking much???

No.  I have the same (or similar) and do the same.  I've found some useful information here:
https://www.resene.co.nz/homeown/use_colr/colour_schemes.htm

If you click into the 'railway cottage' for example, it talks you through what parts would be painted what colours.  Also, I copied and pasted some of the historical examples of colours used in actual buildings eg 'St Augustine's, Petone', and got a few good images with nice historic colour schemes.  I realise this in New Zealand buildings, but architecture and colours followed the trends in the USA - so there should be a lot of similarities.

Cheers, Mark.