Lamson bash

Started by deemery, November 28, 2024, 03:28:19 PM

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deemery

#30
A bit of work today, but some touchy stuff.  First, I touched up the black, including the one set of window wells I forgot to do.  Then I carefully traced around the half-circle window casting onto thin clear styrene.  I cut that out and carefully sanded it down to fit inside the casting.  When I got that right, I used it as a template to cut and sand the other two window glazing.  Finally, I filled in the small window wells in the one cast-in door, using Testors Canopy Cement.  Hopefully that'll dry clear and look like glass.
IMG_0433.jpg

add:  24 hours later, the little drops of Testors clear part cement look like glazing
IMG_0435.jpg

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Dave

Great looking build! I love building these kits and always end up changing the size or shape to fit my space on the layout. It sure is nice to see a build thread on this build.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Jerry

Hey Dave you're din some great work on this building.

Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

deemery


Small project, big impact:
IMG_0436.jpeg

I mixed 1/3 black, 1/3 neutral grey, 1/3 water (Liquitex Acrylic Gouache), and brushed it over the stonework.  I went back over a couple of times, which cleaned off the top of the stones but put the wash into the mortar lines.  

I'm still contemplating the brick mortar, I'm thinking a mix of neutral grey and red, so the mortar lines do not pop out.  I want the stone mortar to pop, but the brick mortar to be more subtle.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

deemery

#34
Brick mortar washes.  Most pieces got grey/red/white.  The two on the bottom right got grey/red, and the two above that got just gray.  The idea is make the buildings look slightly different as if they were built at different times.  I'll check back tomorrow and see if I like the net result.
IMG_0443.jpeg

Add:  a test fit of one structure:
IMG_0444.jpeg

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

ACL1504

Dave,

The wall coloring is great, this is coming along nicely. Like you said, "small project - large impact."

Tom 
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

deemery

#36
I could start on window glazing.  Or I could do some wall assembly.  Hard choice (not!)

I sanded the back of the gable piece using sandpaper glued to a stone tile, and the ends of the other piece (and the bottoms of both pieces) using my sandpaper paint paddles.  When I was OK with the fit, I set up the assembly shown. I used the Micro-Mark thin beam square (one of their best products!) and a 1-2-3 block to align the inner corner. 
IMG_0445.jpeg

The wrinkle here is the gable end needs to slightly overhang the side wall (see the bottom right corner here.)  So I had to touch up that exposed bit of gable end before gluing.  After the glue sets, I'll go back and over-paint the red with the stone grey color.
IMG_0446.jpeg
Once this glue is dry, I'll epoxy 1/4" square strip (styrene or wood) to reinforce the corner joint.

Add:  More glue set-up:
IMG_0448.jpeg

IMG_0449.jpeg
As a reminder, the two back panels meet more-or-less flush.  Because they're in the back, that joint won't really be visible, but I do need to get the two parts as tight as possible for gluing/overall strength of the model.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

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