Old Ambroid/NESL coach kit

[deemery]

I got a partially assembled Ambroid/Northeastern Scale Lumber (B&M prototype) wood open platform coach kit on eBay. This thread will detail some of the challenges in doing this classic kit. 

The box has some pre-cut sides, pre-cut floor pieces, milled roof, some cast parts and a lot of sticks:

It seems this box had parts of 2 kits, there are 2 sets of end platform castings and a couple other extra parts.  The most interesting thing is the milled car side subwalls.  This has the belt rail molding milled into it.  

Here's a test fit of the platform castings after those are cleaned up and the two part floors are glued together:


The instructions are -minimal-, but Bob Parrish has some good instructions on building similar cars on the LaBelle Models website https://www.labellemodels.com/hints-pointers-c-91.html 

The biggest challenge is shaping the roof. 

dave

[deemery]

While waiting for some other parts (particularly the trucks from LaBelle, which will set the bolster location on the car undercarriage), I started on the sides.  Prototype coaches had a lavatory on each side, with round, oval or square (stained glass) windows.  I thought about how to do this, and decided I could draw ovals on my computer.  I measured the size of the external wall for the lavatory compartment, and drew 2 ovals, offset by about .020.  The smaller oval in the subwall will look like framing, at least that's the plan.  Then I glued the templates to the back side of both subwalls and the scribed siding car sheathing.

Then I carefully cut along the ovals, starting with an X-Acto stencil knife, and finishing with regular #11 blades.  Here's the result.  I didn't cut out the two wall pieces, I'll do that after I measure and locate the fascia board.  But at least this shows the result of the ovals.  On this, you can see the milled-in belt rail underneath the windows.  The car siding (top and bottom) aligns against the belt rail.

I'm still pondering doing framing for the outer wall, to clean up that oval.  (I'll print that on paper and glue over the wall.)

dave

[Bernd]

Dave a fret saw would have been ideal for cutting out that window.



A fret saw is designed for intricate and detailed cuts, making it ideal for fine woodworking and delicate projects, while a coping saw is better suited for cutting curves and shapes in thicker materials. The main difference lies in their blade types and the precision they offer, with fret saws having thinner, more delicate blades compared to the coarser blades of coping saws.

And you can cut metal with the metal cutting blades. Plastic with the wood cutting blades and of course wood itself.

Bernd

[deemery]

Bernd, I'm not sure how well that would work on the 1/32 wood pieces (scribed siding and solid piece).  If I do another car, I'll try that.  But I'd be afraid that the saw might snag the wood.  I'd have to find a very fine tooth blade, I think, to prevent tear-out.

dave

[Bernd]

Bernd, I'm not sure how well that would work on the 1/32 wood pieces (scribed siding and solid piece).  If I do another car, I'll try that.  But I'd be afraid that the saw might snag the wood.  I'd have to find a very fine tooth blade, I think, to prevent tear-out.

dave

Dave,

They use fret saws in marquetry. They saw out wood thinner than what you cut out.

Here's a good explanation on how it's done.

https://www.americanmarquetrysociety.com/pdf/getting_started.pdf

Bernd

[GeorgeD]

I built a Labelle passenger kit a number of years ago and I too was afraid of the roof.  It turned out it wasn't all that difficult.  Labelle provided templates for the cut which helped a lot. 

I'll be following along on this project.

George

[deemery]

Bernd, I'm not sure how well that would work on the 1/32 wood pieces (scribed siding and solid piece).  If I do another car, I'll try that.  But I'd be afraid that the saw might snag the wood.  I'd have to find a very fine tooth blade, I think, to prevent tear-out.

dave

Dave,

They use fret saws in marquetry. They saw out wood thinner than what you cut out.

Here's a good explanation on how it's done.

https://www.americanmarquetrysociety.com/pdf/getting_started.pdf

Bernd

Yeah, what works for marquetry would work here!

dave

[Rick]

Dave, that looks like a challenging kit but I think you're up to the task.
Should turn out to be a very nice model.

[Orionvp17]

Dave,

The roof is easier than it may seem.  Make a template from, say, 0.040 styrene and use it to help shape the end,  Saw wide and then move down to the template with a rasp and files.  Best wishes!

Pete
in Michigan

[deemery]

I've been reviewing Bob Parrish's notes from here:  https://www.labellemodels.com/hints-pointers-c-91.html  LOTS of hints there, not just for building wood passenger cars, but for building wood kits in general.

dave

[Philip]

I wonder if these would work?

Oval wins

[westtexjohn]

Wow-Wee........and thus the term "Craftsman Kit" was coined.

Hang in there buddy......I have faith in you.

John

[deemery]

I wonder if these would work?

Oval wins

I have some on order, but I went ahead and did the cut-outs too.  

dave

[friscomike]

Howdy Dave, 

That kit promises to be a lot of fun to build.  We take a lot of things for granted these days, but that old kit will make you appreciate them, e.g., rounding the roof ends.  I'm sure you will do a masterful job on the build.  

Have fun, 
mike

[GPdemayo]

Great work Dave, I started one of those kits back in the 70's and still not finished - they are tough.....