FOS - Shakey's Pool Hall

[ReadingBob]

Last few pictures for today.

The four main walls are topped with a piece of 1/4" by 1/16" strip wood. I cut one end using a Northwest Short Lines Chopper to make sure it was nice and square and then place the wood at the top of the wall using an angle iron to make sure it lined up with the edge of the wall. I marked where the other cut needed to be made using a single edge razor place and then made the second cut using the chopper. Dang it if I didn't screw up one and cut it too short because I didn't line up my mark with the chopper correctly.  Thankfully there was enough strip wood leftover for a redo though I had to paint and weather that extra piece. But all is good now.



Finally, I glued all the doors and windows in place. I apply Canopy Glue to the inside of the opening and then press the door or window in place.



I have some paper that I painted a light green (tan works well too) to use for window blinds. I cut a strip slightly wider than the window openings and then started lopping of random lengths.



I glue these the back of the wall behind the window opening. They're drawn down most of the way because I don't have an interior for this structure and don't want the inside scene. I just try to make sure they aren't exactly the same. That would look a little odd, in my opinion. 



That's where I'm currently at on this one. The next step is to glue the walls together. That's when things really start to take shape!

Thanks for following along!

[PRR Modeler]

Great how to Bob.

[Jerry]

Bob the usual perfect tutorial.

That sign up above came out really nice.

Jerry

[ReadingBob]

Great how to Bob.

Thanks, Curt! I appreciate having you following along. 

[ReadingBob]

Bob the usual perfect tutorial.

That sign up above came out really nice.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry! You might notice the effect that the final dry brushing had on it. It helps create the illusion that the sign was actually painted on when. At least I think it does. 

[Dave Buchholz]

How are you taking the pictures? I'd someone else taking them, it are you using a camera with a timer set up across the table?

[ReadingBob]

How are you taking the pictures? I'd someone else taking them, it are you using a camera with a timer set up across the table?

I have an old Sony Cyber shot on a small tripod on my workbench. I can set the timer by feel (the camera has buttons on the back). 

[Dave Buchholz]

That work bench actually looks clean compared to mine!

[Jerry]

Nice picture.  That shirt is in really good shape for being 13 years old!! 

Jerry

[Vietnam Seabee]

Bob... in that pic you kinda look like Ted Cruz...anybody else see it?
terry

[ReadingBob]

Nice picture.  That shirt is in really good shape for being 13 years old!! 

Jerry

Nah, that's just an old picture I had uploaded years ago to answer the question of how I take my pictures. That shirt has long since been retired. 

[ReadingBob]

Bob... in that pic you kinda look like Ted Cruz...anybody else see it?
terry

Ouch! That hurts. I've never been to Cancun. 

[ReadingBob]

Okay, time for a quick update to this one.

I started gluing the walls together. Due to the nature of this particular set of walls it was easier to do this with the wall's upside down. You can see, in the picture, the bottom edge of this particular set of walls does not line up. The top edge, however, does.



I start by making to L shapes with the walls and then glue the two L shapes together. Again, upside down. Trying my best to keep things square. 



Things are starting to get interesting now. The first-floor extension is not a rectangle. The end wall is much shorter than the depth of the building. It gets glued on, again keeping it square with the rear wall (but at least right side up this time).



At this point I needed to assemble the store front. This is layers of laser cut parts and pilasters, etc.



Hard to see in this picture but this is the assembly that makes up the inset entryway for the store front. Some steps, three doors that get glued to the steps and some brackets in the rear to hold things together. This went together pretty well. I expected to have to futz (the technical term) with it a lot more.



And here's the completed entry way before blinds have been glued in place.



More in a moment...

[ReadingBob]

With the store front finished and glued in place it's time to add the final wall. Here I'm just holding it in place but it's obvious that each end of this wall will have to be beveled for a proper fit.



My solution for beveling the ends of the walls involved an old NWSL True Sander and propping the wall up to get the correct angle. I had to check, then double check, to make sure I was beveling the edge the right way. One end of the wall gets beveled the opposite way as the other end.



Next up was gluing the main roof card in place and getting it centered as best as I could. There are 'guides' cut into the bottom of this card, so I had to make sure I had it the oriented properly.



Then I added, using the 'guidelines' in the roof card the corbels. This is almost as tedious as adding rafter tails. 



Next up was adding the roof support pieces. Just making sure things remain square.



Next up was adding the cardstock roof. Prior to folding this and gluing it place I drew some lines down the center of each surface. I hope this helps me keep the cupolas centered when add them later.



More in a moment...

[ReadingBob]

Before I glued the cardstock roof in place, I noticed the edge of the top of the main roof card would be exposed. I hadn't painted that. I painted the edge and the bottom but not the top. So, I broke out the paints and the sponge and took care of that.



Taking a slight break from the roof, I assembled the four cupolas that will go on the main roof and small, second story, add on that will sit on the lower roof.



For the lower roof I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the top. 



The transfer tape was trimmed to fit, of course.



That's all for today.

Thanks for following along!