Re: Sierra West Foundry Scratchbuild

[Jerry]

You started 5 hours ago where's the picture??? 

Jerry

[Dave Buchholz]

😅😂

[deemery]

I'd drybrush (a good task for a make-up sponge) with a lighter grey, moving the sponge in one direction, top-down.  That'll highlight the top of the stones where the light hits them, but won't change the overall sooty tone of the building. 

And I'd do that after you paint the individual stones. 

dave

Thanks for your input here Dave. I might try that like you say. I'll at least give it a try.
I've seen it done before with excellent results.

Rich

If you varnish/seal the structure before that drybrush step, and use something like pigments, Pan Pastels or even gouache, it would be easy to wash it off if you don't like the result (or at least wipe off with a damp towel.)  

dave

[Pennman]

You started 5 hours ago where's the picture??? 

Jerry

You're a real riot Alice!!  
It's not a "paint by number", like something you would do! LOL HA HA HA, I'll laugh again!
I really think that was funny speaking off the cuff. Later my friend. You'll have to get in line
and your place is now at the rear.

Richie

[Pennman]

"If you varnish/seal the structure before that drybrush step, and use something like pigments, Pan Pastels or even gouache, it would be easy to wash it off if you don't like the result (or at least wipe off with a damp towel.)"

dave

Dave, Thanks for that, but I have never used gouache, and I have some, but not sure how it is mixed/applied.
In those pictures back in post #123, the first two pictures where the walls were light gray, I brushed on liquid dullcote lacquer (thinned), before adding the pan pastels. Frank Bernard is the one who told me to do that step too.
It sort of gives some tooth for the pastel pigments to adhere. I used a stiff brush with short bristles to apply the pan pastels, but they didn't seem to adhere well to the dried acrylic paint base. And, it is difficult to paint apply them to small stones with a sponge. You need something stiff and small for small stones. Should I have used plain alcohol with the pan pastels?

By the nature of these statements I made here, you probably realize I'm not too experienced with using these mediums yet. I just want the end product to look the best.

I do have another question. I have Vallejo powder pigments. What would I use other than water to mix with them to apply them to my model? I don't want them to end up as a paste, I wouldn't want them to dry in lumps if I got too much on. I was thinking of using windshield washer fluid and maybe a couple drops of Kodak Photo Flow 200 solution. What do you think? And are they able to be mixed with plain alcohol.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

Rich

[deemery]

Gouache is just opaque watercolor.  It's made 'opaque' by adding very finely ground marble to regular watercolor.  Since it's a watercolor, it will easily wash off/wipe off.  Unlike acrylics, it doesn't really cure, so afterwards you should apply some matte coating to protect the results.  You can get a cheap student gouache set at a craft store.  It's neat stuff to work with, I think Mike Tylick uses that stuff on occasion, too.

A good applicator for pigments/Pan Pastels in small locations is a pointed make-up applicator, like these: https://www.amazon.com/Pointed-Cotton-Double-Precision-Personal/dp/B0D4PBTSHM  If there's a "Sally Beauty Supply' near you, check there (or ask your wife).

You can mix pigments with water, alcohol, or with paint thinner/mineral spirits.  For the latter, be careful you don't attack the plastic.  You can add pigments to a very small amount of medium (water, alcohol, spirits) to get a paste, or mix pigments with medium to get a paint consistency or a wash consistency.  And you can apply more medium after the pigments are on the model, to get different effects.  One problem with windshield washer fluid is that stuff often contains a blue pigment, and that will change the colors on the model.  For this, better to mix some alcohol and wet water to get the same mixture without the blue tint.  I've heard of Windex also used as a medium/thinner for pigments.   One approach is to wet your brush in the medium, then pick up some pigment, and work it onto clear or white plastic to see the result, before applying it to the model.

dave

[Pennman]

Dave,

Many thanks for the information.
I will play around with this tonight, and update my thread tomorrow.
I think I'll try some things first on some painted scrap plaster.

Rich

[friscomike]

Howdy Rich,

I think any of those colors would make a good place to start. You are on the right track with dry brushing or even picking out random stones with colors almost the same as the base color.  I found that working in layers made the stone look more realistic.  You might look at a prototype of a similar stone to guide you.

and

Have fun,
mike

[Pennman]

Howdy Rich,

I think any of those colors would make a good place to start. You are on the right track with dry brushing or even picking out random stones with colors almost the same as the base color.  I found that working in layers made the stone look more realistic.  You might look at a prototype of a similar stone to guide you.

and

Have fun,
mike

Thanks for checking in again Mike. And for your expert analysis and tips going forward.
I usually bring up a colored picture on my computer screen when doing similar projects.
Jerry thinks I can paint this in five hours. Actually it's been all day. It's harder than that.
I can't sit for 12+ hours painting that long, I go stir crazy. Also, I won't show it half completed.

Rich

[Pennman]

Time for another update on this wonderful nightmare of a project! 

First, I want to thank the members who gave insight as to how I could go about painting the walls for the
main stone building. After checking through most all of my paints to find different shades of gray paints,
I decided to mix my own custom colors using various shades of Slate Gray mixed with concrete which gave me
a dark shade of gray. I painted the individual stones using a 00000 paint brush, which has a very small tip
with just a few hairs. I also diluted the paint a little with windshield washer fluid, (excuse me Dave Emery,
but I like what it does for me), and commenced.

I started by painting some light shades of gray over the dark walls and the first picture shows the beginning walls with those highlighted stones. After those stones dried, I began painting with the custom dark gray paint that I mixed and the second picture is the result.

These walls are not yet completed, but I want to give you a peek as to how they first begin and later the result. I watched a video on YouTube, whereby a guy painted a resin stone building using similar paint colors.
I am happy how they are beginning to look now, but I have yet to dry-brush the walls using two paint colors and also do a wash before they will be completed. I do like how these are beginning to look, and I believe they will be much better, later, when I am done.
Enjoy!

Rich

[Pennman]

Adding one more picture.

Rich

[Jerry]

They look a lot better now Rich.  Your doing a fine job just take your time.  
You've always have seemed to get it the way you want an I'm sure this time it will be no different.

Jerry

[Pennman]

They look a lot better now Rich.  Your doing a fine job just take your time. 
You've always have seemed to get it the way you want an I'm sure this time it will be no different.

Jerry
[/quote]

Thank you so very much, Jerry. They are not done and not totally there yet, but I'm getting close.
The small tipped brush really helped a lot.

Rich

[PRR Modeler]

The walls look very good. I will say the original coloring that the walls had looked good to me also and conveyed age to me. Just one man's opinion.

[Rick]

Rich, walls are looking better.
Keep at it.