Blacksmith Shop

[Jerry]

That is a really nice looking able.  Very neatly done.

Jerry

[Philip]

Excellent work on the gable end; it doesn't get any better than that. By the looks of your tape the amount of trusses looks about right; to me at least. Never understood why some modelers go so nuts on the number of trusses.

Thanks Larry! Take a look at the original truss design from Stoney Creek Designs #21.  Prototypical modeling seems to be falling on the way side as it increases labor, costs, and materials?

Philip, good catch on the oops and fixing it.
Gable end looks good.

Thanks Rick! Indeed an OS moment!

[friscomike]

Howdy Philip, 

The framework is progressing nicely.  Good job.

Have fun,
mike

[Philip]

Howdy Philip,

The framework is progressing nicely.  Good job.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks Mike!

[PRR Modeler]

Nice looking truss work.

[deemery]

Every model has some stuff it reflects, and some stuff it removes.  Interior framing is usually on the "if it can't be seen, it's not worth doing" side of practical modeling.  But that's what makes a model that does interior framing so special.

dave

[Philip]

Nice looking truss work.

It is pretty amazing what Roger designed.

Every model has some stuff it reflects, and some stuff it removes.  Interior framing is usually on the "if it can't be seen, it's not worth doing" side of practical modeling.  But that's what makes a model that does interior framing so special.
dave

Indeed Dave. I stick with the 2 foot rule the majority of the time. Now a front and center model would be different, like your shop.
Philip

[labdad]

Phillip,
Excellent.
Wondering if you used "spacers" to keep things tight & square.
I always cut parts in groups if they're the same size/length.
Even with my furniture.
MJinTN

[Philip]

Phillip,
Excellent.
Wondering if you used "spacers" to keep things tight & square.
I always cut parts in groups if they're the same size/length.
Even with my furniture.
MJinTN

Back when I was production trimming I would gang cut window jamb extensions with pony clamp/stops set up. Same with the 45's except one at a time with a stop on the table. We would do chair rail and bed molding and I would use a magic block for the layout. 2" off the corner walls and 4" in between. All in the math. Same with foyer columns. Saved time. We could do a two story house in a day, including a prefabbed handrail. The expensive houses with the real deal trim would take 5 days.

No gauge blocks. I just work slow and get things close enough. All the horizontal nailers/fire breaks were slightly.
different length.

I'm using a homemade miter box because of all the odd angles. The roof is almost 9/12. It took several tries to get that angle...not sure what it even is. I wish I could birds mouth the rafters but the boards are so tiny.

Thanks man!
Philip 
 

[Larry C]

To me the # of rafters shown is crazy unless you're "a rivet counter" and want to make the model prototypical. I'm more of a "practical modeler" where if it seems reasonable and looks good I'm going with it; but that's just me.

[Philip]

To me the # of rafters shown is crazy unless you're "a rivet counter" and want to make the model prototypical. I'm more of a "practical modeler" where if it seems reasonable and looks good I'm going with it; but that's just me.

The original model was unpractical. The rafters are spaced 12" apart. Hence 22 plus the 2 outrigger ends.    Thanks for chiming in Larry. Good enough crowd

[deemery]

My late brother the carpenter hated working on roofs.  It's either too hot or too cold, always dangerous and back-breaking.  One advantage of models is that it's much easier to work on the roofs than on the prototype...

dave

[Philip]

My late brother the carpenter hated working on roofs.  It's either too hot or too cold, always dangerous and back-breaking.  One advantage of models is that it's much easier to work on the roofs than on the prototype...

dave

I framed for a few years. Feast or famine. So true Dave.