Modeling tools

Started by Rick, Today at 09:43:08 AM

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Rick

I've started research on tools to start building kits and scratch builds.
I used to have a chopper and true sander but I was never very happy with them and looking for something better.
I did a search here and didn't see a thread on this topic but did see a post from Jeff where he had bought some Ultamation tools which look interesting.
Jeff, you mentioned that you couldn't get the chopper to work as well as shown in the companies video.
Have you been able to get it to work better and are you still happy with their tools.

Any suggestions for other sources of better cutters, saws and sanders?

Jerry

This is a good thread to start Rick.

I think a lot of us are stuck with the true sander and the chopper.

Hopefully there will be guys who give better suggestions.

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

deemery

The Shay Wood Miter or equivalent product is worth the investment if you do (plan to do) a fair amount of scratchbuilding.  A Chopper cuts vertically, but tends to leave a non-square edge on the cut.  A Wood Miter moves the blade down AND across the stock.  This produces a more square cut.  But in general, those are limited to 1/8" square or smaller wood or styrene.  For cuts in thicker stock, a mitre box and razor saw is the best cheap tool.   One thing to note about the Ultimation chopper tool is that I believe it takes special blades.  My Choppers and Wood Mitre all use conventional single edge razor blades.   I suspect that buying high quality razor blades would be A Good Thing, but I haven't evaluated that.  And I understand it's possible to get single edge razor blades that have a flat back, rather than having both sides in a V shape.  That would help get square cuts on the flat side.  

A modeler table saw is a good investment if you're doing a lot of scratchbuilding. Modeler table saws can be divided by whether they support a tilted cut.  My Proxxon/MicroMark saw does have a tilt arbor.  It's been essential on a few projects, I use it maybe once a year.  So it might not be worth the cost.  

A disk sander is a great tool, particularly for squaring off stock.  I have 2.  One is the large (and expensive) 8" hand powered Logan Framing Sander.  This works great for large pieces, particularly plaster kit walls. The other is the Imation Precision Sander.  That is a GREAT tool for stripwood and well worth the cost.  I would not want to tackle a trestle bridge without it.  A True Sander (or something you make yourself to do the same thing) is good for large/long cuts, like squaring off styrene building castings along the corners or base.  But I get a similar effect (although not as precise) by gluing sandpaper to paint stirrer sticks, producing a foot long/inch wide 'sandpaper file'.  I attach the sandpaper so one edge of the sanding paddle is 'blank', which works great for sanding against an existing part.

dave

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Vietnam Seabee

A year or so ago I did a review article on the ultimation sander for John Siekirk's Gazette and John did a review for the Ultimation Chopper...don't recall the month

terry

Rick

I don't see the Shay Wood Miter for sale, so maybe discontinued?

I see a saw made by Miupwula on Amazon.
Anyone have any experience with it or any comments on it?

Proton saw looks interesting.
Is the HSS saw blade for KS 115, Ø 2" is best for our modeling needs cutting strip wood?
https://proxxon-us-shop.com/products/hss-saw-blade-for-ks-115

Terry, I don't have that Gazette.
Do you like the sander?

Vietnam Seabee

Rick...yes, I very much like the sander but I also recommend the 'Repeater' attachment.

I scratch built a sloping canopy that had an angle cut sanded on each end.
The repeater accessory let me duplicate about 15 rafters to the same length and angles.

terry

deemery

Proxxon makes 2 modeler table saws.  If you're going to fork out that much $, get the variable speed tilt arbor saw.  Also available from MicroMark: https://micromark.com/products/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hobby-use_2  It's a much better tool.  And get the MicroMark crosscut sled (when it gets back in stock)  https://micromark.com/products/sliding-table-microlux-r  The MicroMark zero clearance clear styrene inserts are worth having.  The Proxxon tilt arbor saw and MicroMark tilt arbor saw are basically the same product, accessories for one fit the other.  The sturdy tall fence used to be available as a separate part, that's a much sturdier fence if you're doing rip cuts.  https://micromark.com/products/featherboard-fence-for-microlux-r-tilting-arbor-table-saw-80463

As far as blades, I've used both the deep tooth blade this saw comes with, and the carbide tip blades from MicroMark.  Frankly, I don't see much difference for cross cuts in usual model size pieces. The carbide blade is probably better for cutting thicker stock.

dave

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Bernd

Here's my tool for cutting strip wood. A very universal tool.







Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

deemery

Speaking of modeling tools:  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/metmo/metmo-precision-grip/   A good idea at an appalling price!

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

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