South River Modelworks 370 - Tucker and Cook Cotton Yarn Mil

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

There are only 2 more buildings left and then scenery.

Here comes the dye house.

This is how the instructions start out for the dye house:
"This building is where the dying of the thread and yarn took place. Though diminutive, it is packed with details that give it a lot of character."

Boy! South River wasn't kidding. I've spent one week working on this little guy and I am still not finished. Nevertheless, I must press on.

There are no new building techniques needed to build the dye house. So, I won't bore you with all the scintillating details. There are however 2 wrinkles thrown in to keep it interesting.

This is all that's needed to build the dye house minus the roofing.



There is a slight wrinkle in the painting of the clapboard walls. After applying the black alcohol stain one dry brushes the walls with sandstone colored paint. Then one applies the white paint so as to show some of the sandstone underneath. The goal is to end up with a layered look thus given the walls some depth.



The windows get some vents added to them in their lower half. The vents are made up of a metal casting and some laserboard. They were painted grey.





And here you see the walls all painted up and windowed up.





And here we see the dye house assembled along with a vent on the roof. Note I assembled this vent the correct way this time around :-)



After applying the rafter tails and roof trim the second wrinkle comes into play. The roof is tar papered sparingly and then wood shake shingles are applied on top so as to expose some of the tar paper.



And here is the dye house all roofed up.





There is one loading dock, building support, stairs, roof over stairs and various other detail castings needed before it is all over.

Coming up - the dye house loading dock and building support.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[jlgrove]

...great work Jaime....

[NEMMRRC]

Thanks for all the feedback. It keeps things interesting when folks have something to say about the build.


The puke green conundrum.


So I went to Michaels yesterday to try to redeem my puke green roof on the main building's tower. I searched high and low for the Mystic Green many suggested. I had no luck.


But, I don't give up easily.


On the way to the Michaels I took a photo of a roof that could represent this roof on Tucker and Cook. Here it is:





The roof you see above is of a church steeple of some old church here in town. There are tons of churches here in town. Why at some intersections one could find 4 churches (one at each corner).


Anyway, here is the selection of Folk Art greens at Michaels:





Can you begin to appreciate my dilemma. And this is only the Folk Art section. Michaels over by my house also carries Americana brand and their house brand Craft Smart. How is a guy supposed to choose!?!


Well, I settled on this:





Folk Art makes a paint called Patina. Why how convenient...


You can see how the Folk Art Patina is close to the color on that old church steeple roof.


Wish me luck, if I muck up this I'm taking up stamp collecting.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

So I had a question from THE Runner earlier in the build. This guy THE Runner has won multiple Best Of Show awards at major model contests and he is asking me how to do something. THE Runner must be losing it.

Anyway, THE Runner wanted to know how I made my rafter tail assembly set up. I guess we all struggle with rafter tails.

Here is what I've been doing for this build:
1. Measure the angle and length of the required rafter tails:


2. Transfer the measurement of the required rafter tails to my Chopper:


3. Build a jig on my Chopper to make it easy to supply the stripwood into the Chopper:


I glued two lengths of stripwood on the Chopper's cutting mat above in order to make a channel where I could feed the rafter tail stripwood into the Chopper's blade.

GET TO THE CHOPPER !!!

Jaime

[oldbloodhound]

Nice work on the dye house.  But I'm not sure if that much exposed tar paper looks good.  I would add some individual shingles in those areas and just leave a very small amount of tar paper showing though.  The shingles could be askew a bit as if only one nail was holding them on.

I like your choice of green!  You can always add a color to it to lighten or darken it.

[Jerry]

Jaime

The shed looks fine.  A nice job.  I assume the roof stills need to be weathered?

Looking forward to you next move.

Jerry

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime

The shed looks fine.  A nice job.  I assume the roof stills need to be weathered?

Looking forward to you next move.

Jerry

Thanks.


I will have the roof weathering photos later. The weathering is done like the picking house roof.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

There is one loading dock for the dye house and it gets built pretty much like the previous loading docks. Also, the dye house sits on scale 4"x4" supports. As much as I dislike CA glue, I had to use it to glue the 4"x4" supports.



To these 4"x4" supports one glues diagonal supports. I decided to wait until it was all glued in place to apply the black alcohol stain.



Note I added a view block to the inside of the dye house. This was not in the instructions.

The kit includes enough material to make stairs for the loading docks. Once glues risers to laser-cut stringers made from laserboard.





I used a pair of rail nippers to cut the made up stairs to the desired lengths.



And here is how those will go.





The instructions say to stain the stripwood risers with black alcohol stain and then match the stringers. Well, I am going to cheat and not stain the risers and just spray paint everything an earth tan color and then stain with black alcohol.

Here is a look at the loading dock with its 4"x4" supports like those on the building.



There are some roof detail castings and a roof for the loading dock I'll add later. For now I want to move on to the next structure.

Coming up - the boiler house, the last building before scenery.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[coors2u]

Everything is looking real good Jaime.

[gnatshop]

The build is lookin' great, but that dern accountant is still lookin' to make a dollar out of this somehow!!
Watch him - he'll try to stuff some yarn in his briefcase to save on toilet paper!!! 

[Mike Engler]

This old dog learned a new trick from Jaime. I made my very own rafter tail jig. The building i am working on needs 62 of these little critters.


Hey, I like your new Patina Green. It should look cool. How about this idea? Practice on some scrap dry brushing a little "copper" or "brass" Folk Art over the new Patina Green in a few spots to show what's under the patina. Cuz we know you love dry brushing.


Looking forward to the fun scenery part of the build. BVG does a really great job on his scenery ideas.

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

Here comes the last building in the kit , the boiler house.

Just like the link that connects the main building to the picking house, the boiler house connects to the main building and to a tall chimney/smokestack.

The boiler house is made up of a combination of clapboard and brick walls. Everything covered so far about working with clapboard and brick is used here. There is one new twist to the boiler house. The boiler house has a metal roof above its brick portion. This was done to contain any fires that may have started in the boiler.

Here is what all is needed to build the boiler house.



By the way, the tall smokestack to the boiler house is built later on in the instructions but I decided to go ahead and sart it now 'cause it and the metal roofing get primed with the same red primer. Yes, you read correctly. The instructions say to prime the metal corrugated roofing with red primer.

And here are the walls all weathered and ready for assembly.



That was easy :-)

And here you see how the boiler house and smokestack fit in against the main building.





The section of the boiler house with the wood walls gets roofed with the tar paper roofing.



The corrugated metal roofing was cut up into 3 scale feet widths and primed with red primer. The brick section of the boiler house gets the corrugated metal roofing. To do that one needs to staggered the first layer and then overlap the second layer on top of the first layer.







The instructions direct the modeler to use the 3M transfer tape to glue the metal roofing to the roof card. I did not do that. I used both Beacon 3-in-1 glue and Walthers Goo for that job.

The ridge caps for the metal roofing are made up of well, metal roofing. I cheated here. You see, the panels for the metal roofing were a tad longer than needed. In the photo below you see an untrimmed metal panel on the left. On the right you see a trimmed metal panel and the extra roofing left over. I used that extra roofing as the ridge cap. Here I did as the instructions suggest and bent the ridge cap piece in half. You can see a bent ridge cap just above the untrimmed metal panel.



And here you have the boiler house all roofed up.



I'll take the next thread update to go over how to weather the corrugated metal roof.

Coming up - weathering the boiler house metal roof, the last step before building scenery.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[MAP]

Nice brickwork Jaime.  You're really doing a bang-up job with this one.

[NEMMRRC]

Nice brickwork Jaime.  You're really doing a bang-up job with this one.

Thanks.

I'm getting close to the part I'm not very good at, scenery.

Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

Here is how to weather the corrugated metal roof.

I've had a devil of a time with previous kits when it comes to weathering corrugated metal. I just cannot get rid of the shiny bits altogether. Therefore, I followed South River's instructions to a fault for this part.

The corrugated provided in the kit is made by Northeastern Scale Lumber. It is very shiny.

First I will summarize the instructions and then I'll show you how I did it.

- prime the corrugated metal with a red primer from a spray can (or airbrush)
- affix the corrugated metal panels to the roof card using 3M transfer tape
- heavily dry brush in the direction of the corrugation with rust and red colors
- lightly dry brush with a medium grey in the direction opposite the corrugation
- use a bit of earth tone color chalks and rust color chalks to accent and blend the panels

Here I go.

Already I've shown how I did not use the 3M transfer tape to affix the corrugated metal panels to the roof card. I used Beacon 3-in-1 and Walthers Goo. I wanted some working time with the panels.

First I dry brushed in the direction of the corrugations of the corrugated metal panels with rust and red tone acrylics. I used several colors. I dry brushed each subsequent color on top of the other. These are the colors I used in the order I used them:
1. terra cotta
2. burnt sienna
3. yellow ochre
4. grey (because I wanted some of the unrusted corrugated metal to "show through")
5. raw umber



Next I used country grey from Apple Barrel to lightly dry brush in the direction opposite the corrugation. This highlights the ridges of the corrugated panels.



Next I took some pastel chalks to blend in the panels. I used 3 different colors as seen below in the order seen below from front to rear.



Applying pastel chalks is easy. Basically rub or scrape the chalk stick over the area you need to weather depositing the chalk dust on the surface and then take a brush and brush the dust about.

Here is a comparison of the rusted corrugated metal panels and the unrusted primed corrugated metal panels.



And here is how the boiler house looks in place (the smokestack is not yet finished).







That is basically it for the buildings/structures. All that is left that is not scenery is the smokestack, a coal bin, a sluice gate, some rock walls and some telephone/power/traction poles.

Coming up - laying out the diorama and scenery.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com