Kenny Crump, KC's Workshop, asked me to assist him in "tweaking" one of his new kits. He sent me Cerzullo's (Sir-zoo-lo) Fruit Packing, kit #1404.
KC's Workshop site is www.kcworkshop.com (http://www.kcworkshop.com). Kenny has other kits worth looking at.
Kenny also sent me a sample of his screen door and several window awnings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160754.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160754.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160814.jpeg)
Continued later this evening.
The kit includes color coded stripwood and signage in three diffferent colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160832.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160832.jpeg)
As you can see the sign is creased. I spoke to Kenny and he plans to reposition the signs on the sheet so the fold won't interfere with the signs.
If you are going to weather your structure and sign, the fold/crease won't be an issue.
For those that have followed my builds in the past you know I always without fail do two things before I start the build. One is to check the window and door openings. In this kit the openings were spot on and no adjustments were necessary. The two freight doors didn't make this kit but they are on the way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115172421.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115172421.jpeg)
The other thing I do is to sand the edges of the walls. The laser cuts at an angle. When the corner posts are added there is a very small gap between the post and the wall if the wall edges aren't sanded.
I simply place the edge of the wall on a new emory board and carefully sand until the edge is more square. I do hold the end of the emory board flat but needed the other hand for the camera. ;D ;D ;D I get my emory boards from the local State Farm agent. They are free.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160905.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160905.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom,
Good to see you back at the work bench! I'll be following along. As soon as I finish a couple of builds I'm working on I'll be doing a thread on Kenny's Lobster Shack. ;D
There are three cardboard/chipboard roof sections. Two for the peaked roof and one for the roof deck in the rear of the structure. All three appear to be the same size; however, they aren't. The two roof sections are slightly larger than the deck section. As a precaution, I marked the two roof pieces "roof" and the deck piece "deck".
The two roof sections are on the right in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160923.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160923.jpeg)
I checked the section on a small square and found the two roof sections were slightly off on the side cut. Refer to the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160938.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160938.jpeg)
The deck section was square and true as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160956.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250115160956.jpeg)
I'll come back to the two roof sections later in the thread. This is it for this evening. I'll be working on the structure and will report more tomorrow.
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 25, 2015, 05:45:18 PM
Tom,
Good to see you back at the work bench! I'll be following along. As soon as I finish a couple of builds I'm working on I'll be doing a thread on Kenny's Lobster Shack. ;D
Bob,
Thanks very much, I appreciate you checking in. I'm very happy to be back in the build saddle. I told Kenny it is has been since June of 2013 when I last built a structure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 25, 2015, 05:45:18 PM
Tom,
Good to see you back at the work bench! I'll be following along. As soon as I finish a couple of builds I'm working on I'll be doing a thread on Kenny's Lobster Shack. ;D
Bob,
I forgot to mention Bill and Kris were gracious enough to let me do this build for Kenny prior to starting the build I had going for them. Kenny needs this one tweaked before to the EXPO so he has time make any necessary changes.
Tom ;D
Following along. I started "Joe's Barbershop" from KC this weekend, my first KC kit. I'm taking pictures as I go for a build thread.
I'll be watching Tom..... :)
I will be watching how the build goes. Good luck.
Marty
Quote from: Dave K. on January 25, 2015, 06:38:14 PM
Following along. I started "Joe's Barbershop" from KC this weekend, my first KC kit. I'm taking pictures as I go for a build thread.
Dave,
Thanks for stopping by. This will be a fun build and the kit has so many possibilities. I'll be looking for your thread on the Barber Shop.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 25, 2015, 10:19:12 PM
I'll be watching Tom..... :)
Greg,
Thanks for following along. I should have more on the thread this evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 26, 2015, 08:40:37 AM
I will be watching how the build goes. Good luck.
Marty
Marty,
Thanks for following along on this build. It has been fun up to this point and it is a great little structure.
Tom ;D
Since I last mentioned the roof panels for the peaked roof ends, let's take a look at the peaked wall sections. I measured the two sections and found that one side is longer than the other. More on this in a moment. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Below are the two peaked wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150057.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150057.jpeg)
At first glance they appear to be the same. And, when placed on top of each other they are the same size.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150111.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150111.jpeg)
If we look at the peaked wall section straight on, all seems normal. However, from the left edge to the peak the measurment is 14 HO scale feet. From the right edge to the peak is 13.5 HO scale feet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115152148.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115152148.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
PLEASE NOTE:
By no means am I being derisive of Kenny or this particular kit. This build is to assit Kenny in getting the "kinks" out of the kit to make it a better structure and less of a problem for others to build.
For this reason, I'm going over everything in the build. Thus far the issues I've shared in the thread are ones that an adjustment to the CAD drawings and the laser cutting can resolve. I'm also making these notes with Kenny's permission. I've done the same with builds for Jimmy D. and Groovy Jeff of CCK fame.
Ok, I'll admit one of Jimmy's caught fire but it was Slims fault. He gave me some very bad advice. 8) 8)
Continuing with the build thread in a few.
Tom ;D
The peaked wall sections are to be glued to the upper outer wall sections. They will go on the building as seen in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150152.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150152.jpeg)
When I placed the two sections on each other or "opposite" each other, this is how they look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150209.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150209.jpeg)
Now you can see why the 14 scale feet on one side and 13.5 scale feet on the other side is a problem.
Continued in a few.
In order to further show you how this all can be a problem, I've taped the building together with the uneven roof panels and peaked wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115145958.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115145958.jpeg)
I use blue painters tape for this as it is sticky enough to hold the walls but not so sticky it causes a problem when removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150239.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150239.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see how the roof sections fit on the building. Well, actually they don't fit very well. This view is of the roof on the left rear. The front right roof panel looks like this as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150258.jpeg)
This is how we work out the "kinks" and "tweak" the structure for a better model for future release.
More on the structure tomorrow. Thanks for taking this adventure with Kenny and me.
Tom ;D
Aren't you supposed to be building benchwork/laying track? ;D
Jeff
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2015, 03:35:24 PM
PLEASE NOTE:
By no means am I being derisive of Kenny or this particular kit. This build is to assit Kenny in getting the "kinks" out of the kit to make it a better structure and less of a problem for others to build.
For this reason, I'm going over everything in the build. Thus far the issues I've shared in the thread are ones that an adjustment to the CAD drawings and the laser cutting can resolve. I'm also making these notes with Kenny's permission. I've done the same with builds for Jimmy D. and Groovy Jeff of CCK fame.
Ok, I'll admit one of Jimmy's caught fire but it was Slims fault. He gave me some very bad advice. 8) 8)
Continuing with the build thread in a few.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom for doing this !! Drawings have already been adjusted and being re cut If you already purchased A Cerzullo's you'll be sent the re cut asap
Kenny
Tom, good catches.
It's these types of things that can frustrate a builder/customer. I like that you went through the parts to check everything was right. (I am just as fussy measuring each piece of strip wood and marking the "off" ones for non-critical uses or replacing it from my lumber yard.)
Can't wait to see the structure go together.
Marty
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 26, 2015, 09:12:45 PM
Aren't you supposed to be building benchwork/laying track? ;D
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Yes, most definitely; however, I needed a break as I found myself loosing interest for a few days. I told Kenny I'd start his kit early. I originally advised him I wouldn't be able to start the kit until the end of February of this year.
I'll be doing more on the layout later this afternoon. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on January 26, 2015, 09:21:01 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2015, 03:35:24 PM
PLEASE NOTE:
By no means am I being derisive of Kenny or this particular kit. This build is to assit Kenny in getting the "kinks" out of the kit to make it a better structure and less of a problem for others to build.
For this reason, I'm going over everything in the build. Thus far the issues I've shared in the thread are ones that an adjustment to the CAD drawings and the laser cutting can resolve. I'm also making these notes with Kenny's permission. I've done the same with builds for Jimmy D. and Groovy Jeff of CCK fame.
Ok, I'll admit one of Jimmy's caught fire but it was Slims fault. He gave me some very bad advice. 8) 8)
Continuing with the build thread in a few.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom for doing this !! Drawings have already been adjusted and being re cut If you already purchased A Cerzullo's you'll be sent the re cut asap
Kenny
Kenny,
You are very welcome and I'm enjoying the build. I'm glad I could help.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 26, 2015, 11:25:40 PM
Tom, good catches.
It's these types of things that can frustrate a builder/customer. I like that you went through the parts to check everything was right. (I am just as fussy measuring each piece of strip wood and marking the "off" ones for non-critical uses or replacing it from my lumber yard.)
Can't wait to see the structure go together.
Marty
Marty,
Thanks for looking in and following along. It's good to catch these things early. I've built so many structures that I often forget it all comes easy to me and can be very frustrating for a beginner modeler if unexpected changes need to be made.
I appreciate Kenny's confidence in letting me assist.
Tom ;D
So both peaked roof pieces fit, I cut a piece for the opposite side. Here is what I did to get two like pieces.
I took one of the peaked roof pieces and placed it face down on some scrap stripwood. The stripwood matches what was in the kit.
NOTE: If you are making the new piece, the original piece needs to be placed scribed side down so you don't end up with a third like piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150315.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150315.jpeg)
I then used a sharp pointed pencil and traced around the original piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150333.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150333.jpeg)
I used a small metal ruler as a cutting guide and cut along the pencil line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150349.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150349.jpeg)
The two pieces were set aside for later use.
Continued in a few.
I was reading the instructions and read, "The rear roof section drops in the opening."
However, in reading further and comparing the instructions to the drawing, no provision was made or mentioned how the rear roof/deck was to be supported once dropped in.
The upper rear wall section has a single window and door opening laser cut into it. This wear wall section fits flush to the top of the side wall sections. Refer to the photo below for a "thousand words" explanation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150030.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150030.jpeg)
If it is to drop into the opening, then this particular wall section is to short. Here is how I fixed the problem. I measured down two (2) HO scale feet from the top of the lower rear and side walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150430.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150430.jpeg)
I used a metal ruler as a guide and drew a pencil line on the back side of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150405.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150453.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260115150453.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
This will be an easy fix for Kenny. The bracing diagrams will need to be changed to reflect the rear roof/deck panel brace location. Also, the rear wall section will need to be fixed and correctly cut.
Fortunately, as mentioned above, this is an extremely easy fix. Two (2) HO scale feet is the same as four (4) boards on the siding. I lowered the window and door opening four boards or the two HO scale feet. The original rear wall section is on the right and the new one has the window and door placed into the new openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115113122.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115113122.jpeg)
Since this affects the bracing here is the new bracing positions.
NOTE: Since this model will be returned to Kenny to use for display purposes, I've added extra bracing. The extra bracing is noted in red in the followiong photo.
Notice also I've added the lower roof bracing marked in red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123542.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123542.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here is how the new roof "fix" looks in the rear of the structure. The new rear wall section is in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123559.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123559.jpeg)
The rear roof panel now "drops" into the opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123615.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123615.jpeg)
Now we have a nice fit for the door and roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123633.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115123633.jpeg)
More on this build tomorrow. Thanks for following along.
I know its not tomorrow but here is a quick little update. The instructions call for the peaked end to be positioned as seen in the diagram below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181152.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181152.jpeg)
The back side is flush with the back wall letting the front hang over the front wall. Here is how it will look on the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181206.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181206.jpeg)
I'm going to builld this model per the instructions. When I build mine, I'll center the peaked end with the wall as seen below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181222.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270115181222.jpeg)
Either way will be fine. If you decide to center the peaked end you'll need to adjust/change the rafter tails under the overhang.
Thanks for letting us ride shotgun on a test build. It's a good insight into the challenges of designing a kit and writing instructions. 👍
Dave ....sure is ! Bracing Diagram Check rear wall check roof check .......
Quote from: Dave K. on January 27, 2015, 08:52:43 PM
Thanks for letting us ride shotgun on a test build. It's a good insight into the challenges of designing a kit and writing instructions.
Dave,
Building the model is fun as is being a build detective. I can't even imagine what all is involved in putting a kit together. It has to be hundreds of hours just to get the first one off and built.
However, Jeff Grove seems to be able to do it in one week of less. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on January 27, 2015, 09:00:02 PM
Dave ....sure is ! Bracing Diagram Check rear wall check roof check .......
Great!
Tom
Tom,
I love watching your test build threads. They are a wonderful reminder to check absolutely everything before starting construction. I sometimes find a problem part way through the build that causes some real head scratching (read that head banging), that I could have avoided if I was more exacting when checking the kit parts. Thank you for your detailed post, I always learn from your build threads.
I have a suggestion for Ken regarding the door that opens onto the flat roof. I think it should be raised one clapboard. This would look more realistic since the step down would prevent any water pooling on the roof from flowing across the threshold and back into the building. More importantly from a modeling aspect, it gives the modeler some room to flash his roof treatment against the wall without having to trim around the door.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 28, 2015, 08:36:46 AM
Tom,
I love watching your test build threads. They are a wonderful reminder to check absolutely everything before starting construction. I sometimes find a problem part way through the build that causes some real head scratching (read that head banging), that I could have avoided if I was more exacting when checking the kit parts. Thank you for your detailed post, I always learn from your build threads.
I have a suggestion for Ken regarding the door that opens onto the flat roof. I think it should be raised one clapboard. This would look more realistic since the step down would prevent any water pooling on the roof from flowing across the threshold and back into the building. More importantly from a modeling aspect, it gives the modeler some room to flash his roof treatment against the wall without having to trim around the door.
Jerry,
Thank you very much, I appreciate the support on the build. If anything I do helps others then it is certainly worth the effort.
I agree with your suggestion for Kenny on the second floor rear door. I think I can make it work even though I've already cut the opening. We'll see how it goes. I'll address this issue in tomorrows post.
Again, Jerry, thank you for the suppot and the suggestion.
Tom ;D
The bracing is complete and now I'm ready to move on to the painting of the walls. Here is where people differ according to preference. Some modelers prefer to apply and A&I wash on the walls followed by the paint. Nothing wrong with doing it this way. I sometimes reverse this process and paint first and then add the A&I wash. Once that is dry I'll add nail holes. All these steps can be mixed up but the bottom line is do what is comfortable for you.
For me, it just depends on the look I feel I want the model to look like so I do what I feel best on a particular model. Here, I chose to paint the walls first. Since the sign in the kit is a shade of brown, this pretty much ditated to me the color of the model. There is a sign in the kit which is black with white lettering as well.
I chose to paint the model with Floquil Foundation and Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer. Foundation for the base and the Chromate Primer for the trim. You can find like colors at a number of craft stores.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175558.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175558.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175613.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175613.jpeg)
Using a soft 1/4" brush I painted the walls the Foundation color and the trim with the Chromate Primer color. I set them aside to dry for a few days. I though about painting the peaked side wall a contrasting color. In the photo below you can see how it would look with a ligher color than on the wall. The peaked top is not painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175627.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175627.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I decided to paint the peaked wall the same Foundation color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175645.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175645.jpeg)
Per the instructions, I glued the trim to the three wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175703.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175703.jpeg)
Now refer to the top photo in this post. You see the side walls have two windows on each side.
In the photo below you can see where I placed two windows on the upper front portion of the wall. I believe the kit will look much better if these two windows are added to the kit. When I build mine, I'm planning on adding these two windows to the kit. I realize this may raise the price of Kenny's kit but I firmly believe it will look much better. After all who wants to be on the second floor and not be able to look out the front windows? ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175718.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here is how it looks with the two front windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175732.jpeg)
More tomorrow.
Tom, it is looking good. The two extra windows would interest visually and for the build. It seems that problem solving during a build is a key princple for every modeler.
Can't wait to see the roof covering.
Marty
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 28, 2015, 09:46:38 PM
Tom, it is looking good. The two extra windows would interest visually and for the build. It seems that problem solving during a build is a key princple for every modeler.
Can't wait to see the roof covering.
Marty
Marty,
Thanks for checking in with a comment,. much appreciated. I've already cut in the front windows and will be posting the progress within the next hour.
Tom ;D
I spoke to Kenny last evening and he gave the "go ahead" to cut in and add the two front windows on this kit.
Also, Jerry Beach made a suggestion concerning the rear door which opens to the deck. Here is what Jerry suggested -
I have a suggestion for Ken regarding the door that opens onto the flat roof. I think it should be raised one clapboard. This would look more realistic since the step down would prevent any water pooling on the roof from flowing across the threshold and back into the building. More importantly from a modeling aspect, it gives the modeler some room to flash his roof treatment against the wall without having to trim around the door.
I want to tell ya'll that Kenny picked up on the suggestion and has advised me he has already made the changes in the kit.
Thanks Jerry and thank you Kenny for being receptive to the suggested changes.
Continued in a few. I forgot to crop and upload the new set of photos.
Tom ;D
Well, today seems to be the day of making repairs. I mentioned above Kenny gavbe the "go ahead" to add the two front windows. I put the three pieces together and used a metal ruler to make sure I had the two new window locations level with the side windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115125950.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115125950.jpeg)
I then marked the locations and cut the openings in the front wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130008.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130008.jpeg)
When I was working on the front windows I broke a piece off the peaked wall section. As luck would have it I couldn't find the broken piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130027.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130027.jpeg)
I took the old peaked portion and cut a replacement piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130045.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130045.jpeg)
Wall section repaired and painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130115.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130115.jpeg)
Yes, after I painted the new piece I found the broken off piece. Mr. Murphy is alive and well here at my workbench! :'(
Continued in a few.
While speaking with Kenny yesterday he mentioned that since I lowered the rear upper door the corner trim would interfere with the correct fit to the sides walls.
I came out and checked the piece against the side wall and he was correct. My bad, I missed it!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130132.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130132.jpeg)
Kenny has already made the change in the instructions in that instead of the corner trim being added to the upper rear wall it will be glued to the rear of the side wall sections.
For the purposes of this build, I'm just going to make the change on the wall since I've already glued the trim. And, while I was at it I made the change Jerry suggested and raised the rear upper door 1 1/2 boards. I cut the corner trim off four boards from the bottom and cut 1 1/2 boards off above the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130150.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130150.jpeg)
I then repositioned the door in the new opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130219.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130219.jpeg)
For the work I did on this change I would have probably been better off cutting a new rear wall section. However, since I did it ya'll will have go on this adventure with me 8) 8) 8)
Continued in a few.
I used the old rear wall section and cut a few boards off the side portion.
This turned out to be the same width as the door opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130246.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130246.jpeg)
I then glued this piece in the bottom of the door opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130304.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130304.jpeg)
I used a toothpick and added some yellow glue to the edges of the added piece. I smoothed the glue in the cracks and let dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130326.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130326.jpeg)
When dry I used 400 grit sandpaper to smooth the joint and then repainted the Foundation color on the repair.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130411.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130411.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130425.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The window and door were placed in the opening and the wall was then test fitted to the rear of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130441.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290115130456.jpeg)
Now for some window glass and nail holes. More tomorrow, hopefully.
Love following the build Tom. The detailed info helps newer guys like me. Keep up the good work.
Bill
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on January 29, 2015, 06:04:01 PM
Love following the build Tom. The detailed info helps newer guys like me. Keep up the good work.
Bill
Bill,
Thank you, much appreciated. I'm glad you are following and getting some benefit from the thread. See ya soon.
Tom ;D
Great color choices...very "Postal Karl". ;D Also agree with the added windows. I also prefer the peaked section being centered. The off-center looked a little visually askew to me. Great work. KC...do you have a release date yet for the kit?
Quote from: Dave K. on January 31, 2015, 08:09:45 AM
Great color choices...very "Postal Karl". ;D Also agree with the added windows. I also prefer the peaked section being centered. The off-center looked a little visually askew to me. Great work. KC...do you have a release date yet for the kit?
Dave,
"Thanks, much appreciated", also very Postal Karl! ;D ;D My color choice was sign dictated and I too like the centered peak end.
Tom ;D
Nothing to report as yet. I did take time to finish my wiring for the lower level staging yards.
More on the this build on Monday, Feb. 2.
Tom ;D
Yesterday I did in fact get a little more done on the building. I added some nail holes to the walls and applied a very light coat of A&I to all the walls. The walls were allowed to dry overnight.
I cut out two signs and applied them to the building. The signs were lightly sanded on the rear to thin them a little. I mixed some 50/50 while glue and water, applied the glue to the rear of the signs and pressed them into the siding. The walls will remain on the workbench until tomorrow. The signs and walls will receive more A&I and weathering later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153843.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153843.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153900.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153900.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153916.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010215153916.jpeg)
This is all for today!
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. Like the colors. I have a Louie's Lobster shack sent to me From KC's Workshop to build. that's next after the one I'm building now.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you, much appreciated. This is a great little structure. I'm a little behind on the kit due to a sore back. I took a day off from the kit to work on my layout and did to much lifting and crawling under the layout. I just love old age. :'(
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on February 05, 2015, 09:36:59 AM
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. Like the colors. I have a Louie's Lobster shack sent to me From KC's Workshop to build. that's next after the one I'm building now.
Karl
Hi Karl,
Me too. That kit's next on my agenda. :D I'm looking forward to seeing your take on it.
After the signs were added and dry, I painted the back of the walls with Floquil Grimy Black. When dry I glued the four wall together. By the four, I mean the two sides, the lower rear and the upper front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153705.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153705.jpeg)
When the walls were dry, I painted the inside of the upper deck walls the basic structure color, Floquil Foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153720.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153720.jpeg)
I then placed the cardboard deck in place for a test fit. It was a nice tight fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153735.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153735.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then turned the structure over and marked the location of the upper deck bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153751.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153751.jpeg)
I used the red lines as a guide and glued on some 8X8 scale stripwood braces on the underside of the deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153806.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153806.jpeg)
Ken suggested painting the deck with a black paint and while still wet, sprinkle on some fine sand (sand no included).
I did go with a gravel type roof but used sandpaper instead. Here is what and how I did it.
I took some 180 grit/very fine sandpaper and glued a piece to the top side of the deck. I used a weight to hold the deck down while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153842.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153842.jpeg)
When dry, I used a new #11 Xacto blade and carefully cut the sandpaper around the edge of the deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153821.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153821.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
With the sandpaper now glued to the top side of the deck, I made another test fit and added the upper rear wall for a test fit also It all fit fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153906.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153906.jpeg)
I used Floquil Grimy Black and painted the sandpaper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153920.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153920.jpeg)
I then glued the deck in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153933.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153933.jpeg)
When the deck was dry, I glued the upper rear wall in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080215153947.jpeg)
More on the build thread tomorrow.
Tom,
This is coming along nicely. I know I made you some extra work when I suggested the door to the flat roof be raised above the roof level. I like the use of the sandpaper for the gravel covered roof, it looks good, and is easier than adding some sand over glue or paint.
If I might hijack your thread for a moment... I worked at a facility in the 70's that had several buildings with flat roofs that were roofing material covered with layers of tar, and then a layer of loose pea gravel on top of the tar. We had to access the roof multiple times per shift to check some roof mounted compressors, and add lube oil to the drip oilers as needed. To protect the roof, there were walkways consisting of 2" planks for us to use to reach the compressors.
Adding a similar walkway to this roof along with a machinery enclosure would add a lot of interest to this structure. (Looks like I found yet another way to add some time to your build, lol!)
Hi Tom:
She's coming along very nicely. Looks like it's coming together well. Can't wait to see the finsined product.
Karl
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 11, 2015, 04:30:48 PM
Tom,
This is coming along nicely. I know I made you some extra work when I suggested the door to the flat roof be raised above the roof level. I like the use of the sandpaper for the gravel covered roof, it looks good, and is easier than adding some sand over glue or paint.
If I might hijack your thread for a moment... I worked at a facility in the 70's that had several buildings with flat roofs that were roofing material covered with layers of tar, and then a layer of loose pea gravel on top of the tar. We had to access the roof multiple times per shift to check some roof mounted compressors, and add lube oil to the drip oilers as needed. To protect the roof, there were walkways consisting of 2" planks for us to use to reach the compressors.
Adding a similar walkway to this roof along with a machinery enclosure would add a lot of interest to this structure. (Looks like I found yet another way to add some time to your build, lol!)
Jerry,
The sandpaper roof is in fact easier than adding sand to glue or paint. As a police officer I found myself on many roofs with the planking over the pea gravel and tar. The bad guys would get on the roof and attempt to enter the structure via the air vent. LOL, your suggestion for the roof machinery and walkway is a great idea but I won't be doing it on this build.
And, I'd like to add that with a roof like this another few details would be present. If the roof were on a slant to remove standing water, there would be small drain outlets from the roof through the wall. If not that, there would be a drain on the roof to remove the standing water.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on February 12, 2015, 07:51:36 AM
Hi Tom:
She's coming along very nicely. Looks like it's coming together well. Can't wait to see the finsined product.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated. I'll be adding more within the hour to the build thread.
Tom ;D
Next in the build I worked on the store front. I wanted to have/add a third color to the structure. Having the strore front the same color as the trim, doors, windows and the signs would have been to much of the dark brown color.
The store front is laser cut into a self adhesive chipboard (?). The detail is excellent.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175751.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175751.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see where I removed the areas inside the large window. The two store front columns were removed as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175807.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175807.jpeg)
I wanted a color that would work with the Foundation and the trim colors so I tested two different greens on the store front. The green on the left is Floquil Coach Green and the one on the right is Depot Olive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175827.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175827.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I placed the store front with the two green samples next to the wall color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175841.jpeg)
I liked the Depot Olive best for the contrasting color of the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280115175910.jpeg)
Continued in a few. Time for a Diet Pepsi break.
I painted the attic vents the foundation color and the four pieces below the window with Floquils Antique White. These pieces fit behind sections of the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131157.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131157.jpeg)
When the vents were dry I removed them from the sheet and glued them to the opening on the attic wall. NOTE: These pieces have the self adhesive on the back. However, after removing the paper I still applied a very small amount of glue to the pieces when placed on the wall. I then used a small 3/0 soft bristle brush to touch up the paint on the sides as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131214.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131214.jpeg)
Here is how the store front looks on the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131229.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131229.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I removed the door and glued it to the store front, centering it between the windows. The pieces painted with the antique white paint were also added. These are glued to the rear of the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131245.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131245.jpeg)
NOTE: You may need to trim the store front edges to fit the walls. I needed to trim about 1/32" from each side. You want to test fit the front on the walls prior to adding the two columns. The store front is to fit flush with both sides of the exterior walls.
After I test fit the front on the walls, the two columns were glued in place. These are glued flush with the sides of the store front. Here, flush is on the top of the store front, not flush on the sides of the store front. I painted the door knob with brass paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131300.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131300.jpeg)
Here is how it now looks on the front of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131316.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131316.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Now, here is where I deviated from the plans KC has for the store front canopy/awning. Kenny includes in the kit a corrugated piece of material for the front awning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131334.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131334.jpeg)
I chose not to use this of the model. KC's Workshop also sells window awnings separately. These are not included in the kit but Ken sent me a few samples to try. I decided since this is his kit and his added details, they needed to be displayed on this model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131351.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131351.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The largest awning wasn't long enough to fit across the front so I used two pieces and cut an equal amount off the right side of one and the left side of the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131408.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131408.jpeg)
I used a small metal ruler to bend the awning on the scored lines so I wouldn't bend the awning in the wrong location.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131425.jpeg)
There is a small tab on each side of the back of the awning for gluing/holding the sides and rear of the awning in place. This proved to difficult to hold in place while the glue dried. I tried CA glue as well but came up with a better way to hold the sides. A better way for me anyway.
I'm not entirely sure you can see what I've done in the next photo. I removed the small paper tab from the awning. I also needed to splice the two awning sections together. I used a piece of scale 8X8 stripwood and cut it the same length of the two awning pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131442.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131442.jpeg)
I then cut two small blocks and glued these to the brace piece, the bottom of the awning and each side of the awning.
Continued in a few.
After the glued awning braces dried, I began painting the awning. I alternated the colors, Floquil Antique White and the Depot Olive, on the awning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131502.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131502.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131520.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131520.jpeg)
And here is the finished awning for the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131538.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131538.jpeg)
More on the build thread tomorrow.
Hi Tom,
I like how this is coming together and I like the look of the awnings. My old house up in PA had metal awnings like that on the windows and the colors alternated between green and white just like you've done. :D
Glad to see that the staples in your shoulder aren't slowing you down. :)
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 13, 2015, 02:49:06 PM
Hi Tom,
I like how this is coming together and I like the look of the awnings. My old house up in PA had metal awnings like that on the windows and the colors alternated between green and white just like you've done. :D
Glad to see that the staples in your shoulder aren't slowing you down. :)
Bob,
Thanks for following and I appreciate the kind words. Ken's awning set is a real keeper and really look good on the building. My grandmother had metal awning, even here in Fl. and hers were green and white.
The staples really are stinging now but don't slow me down as you said. I just can't lift the arm for two weeks so I'm getting the structures done. LOL!
Tom ;D
I forgot to show the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131907.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130215131907.jpeg)
Tom ;D
Tom
Looks Great .... I guess I need some wider awnings .....
Ken,
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, it would be great if you had some awnings the same width of some of your store fronts.
Tom ;D
They are the same as the 4 storefronts I offer on my website ( stf01-stf 04) and the smaller ones fit most Tichy single windows like 8028 8069 etc.
I'll make one to fit Cerzulllo's
Great thread, Tom. I'm looking ahead to a three-day weekend and catching up on your build has gotten me charged.
Quote from: Amagic41 on February 13, 2015, 04:11:49 PM
I'll make one to fit Cerzulllo's
Ken,
That will be a great option. I considered putting on a few single window awning but it looked way to busy. The front awning is just the right touch and look.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on February 13, 2015, 06:45:10 PM
Great thread, Tom. I'm looking ahead to a three-day weekend and catching up on your build has gotten me charged.
Dave,
Thank you for the kind words and I'm always happy to get others charged in the building department. I forgot about Monday being an extra day off. Enjoy the three days.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Wonderful choice with the green paint on the front of the building and especially the addition of the awning. I have looked at the photos of the building on Ken's website and felt it was missing something, without being able to put my finger on what it needed. You really improved the front of the building with the addition of the awning!
After my story and your response to planks on the roof, I am surprised that you aren't planning to have a perp on the roof being cornered by the law. That would make a perfect "mini-scene". ROFL!
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2015, 07:46:43 AM
Quote from: Amagic41 on February 13, 2015, 04:11:49 PM
I'll make one to fit Cerzulllo's
Tom
it will be included with the kit
Ken,
That will be a great option. I considered putting on a few single window awning but it looked way to busy. The front awning is just the right touch and look.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2015, 07:48:52 AM
Thank you for the kind words and I'm always happy to get others charged in the building department. I forgot about Monday being an extra day off. Enjoy the three days. Tom ;D
When you're retired, it's really a big thing to get an extra day off!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 14, 2015, 09:18:51 AM
Tom,
Wonderful choice with the green paint on the front of the building and especially the addition of the awning. I have looked at the photos of the building on Ken's website and felt it was missing something, without being able to put my finger on what it needed. You really improved the front of the building with the addition of the awning!
After my story and your response to planks on the roof, I am surprised that you aren't planning to have a perp on the roof being cornered by the law. That would make a perfect "mini-scene". ROFL!
Jerry,
Thanks for checking in again and for the kind words concerning the awning, much appreciated. As far as the planks on the roof and the perf being chased by the Po_Po, I plan to have that scene on one of the other building I'm planning on for the new layout. I'll need a larger building though.
Tom ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on February 14, 2015, 03:50:53 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2015, 07:48:52 AM
Thank you for the kind words and I'm always happy to get others charged in the building department. I forgot about Monday being an extra day off. Enjoy the three days. Tom ;D
When you're retired, it's really a big thing to get an extra day off!! ;D ;D ;D
Gman,
At our age, every day is a really big thing. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
I used Canopy Glue to make the window and door glass and when dry I painted Floquil SP Lettering Gray to a few of the windows to represent blinds. I installed the doors and windows on the building. I used the Floquil SP Lettering Gray and applied a very light coat of "dry brushing" to the walls, doors, windows and store front.
When the dry brushing was dry, I added the clear acetate, included in the kit, to the rear of the front windows. The back of the store front has the self adhesive and the acetate stuck to the adhesive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112602.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112602.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112617.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112617.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I next added some tar to the rear roof along the edges. For the tar I mixed a little Floquil Grimy Black to some Elmer's White glue and used a toothpick to apply the mixture.
I also added the 2X6 stripwood to the top of the rear roof walls. Don't forget to miter the corners. This is the correct method and looks good even on a model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112509.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112509.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112524.jpeg)
The rear wall needs to be sanded down to the angle of the roof. This will give you and nice and even roof line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112539.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112539.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
And now for the awning! I added the awning to the store front and it really changes the entire look of the structure. I glued it three boards up from the bottom of the upper front wall. I also added a spot of glue to the inside of the awning side and glued the side of the awning to the outside top of the two columns.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112631.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112717.jpeg)
More on the build tomorrow.
Great prototype build, Tom. Thank you for taking the time and effort to document your build and sharing it with us. I really like your color choices for the build. I know Kenny appreciates your "fixes" to the kit. In the long run, all the suggestions and fixes will add to the quality of Ken's kit.
Bob
I had a little burst of energy and decided to work on the loading dock. I found an issue that needs to be fixed and I'll cover that in a few minutes.
Ken has precut/laser cut the loading dock and support posts for you. This is great as it will save time if you don't have to build one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112735.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112735.jpeg)
If you want to buld your own with individual boards here is what I did. I made a pattern with the one Ken supplies and made a simple frame. On top of the scale 4x4's I addeed scale 2x6's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112800.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112800.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112817.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112817.jpeg)
Add some 4x4 posts and you are all set.
Continued in a few.
Quote from: UP Fan on February 16, 2015, 03:33:37 PM
Great prototype build, Tom. Thank you for taking the time and effort to document your build and sharing it with us. I really like your color choices for the build. I know Kenny appreciates your "fixes" to the kit. In the long run, all the suggestions and fixes will add to the quality of Ken's kit.
Bob
Bob,
Thank you for the very kind words. This has really been a fun build and Ken really has a winner in this one. I like the overall looks.
Thanks again for stopping by and posting your thoughts.
Tom ;D
The only disadvantage to using the laser cut one is that it won't stain as well as the individual boards. In the next photo you can see that the top and bottom take the stain. The laser cut sides are burned and only let the stain soak in but not stain the wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112833.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112833.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112851.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112851.jpeg)
However, let's proceed and use the laser cut loading dock. Here is how you can make it better looking if your loading dock can be viewed up close.
I painted the deck with a very thin light gray and when dry added some medium color A&I. When that was dry I used the medium cut razor saw and pulled it across the decking lengthwise. This gives it a little 3D look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112909.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112909.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112927.jpeg)
If you desire you can add more A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112942.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215112942.jpeg)
I then glued the support posts section to the underside of the loading deck/dock per the instructions. I made sure it was square at 90 degrees and set this aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215113511.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215113511.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When the loading dock was dry I test fit it to the model. This is when I discovered the problem. I immediately and very carefully removed the support post section from the underside of the loading dock. I then glued the support post section to the outside edge of the loading dock.
NOTE: By gluing the support section to the underside, it raises the dock above the doors.
In the photo below you can see that I've supported the posts on the loading dock sprue. This represents the height of the dock if the posts are glued to the underside. You can clearly see the dock isn't level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153148.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153148.jpeg)
For Ken the solution can be an easy fix. The easiest one is to have the support post section glued to the outside edge flush with the loading dock as I did and shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153132.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153132.jpeg)
The harder one would be to cut the loading dock doors higher on the wall.
Continued later this afternoon.
Another small issue I found was the loading dock canopy was to short and didn't cover the loading dock. I used the cardboard backing from a legal pad and made a new one the length of the loading dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153202.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153202.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153218.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153218.jpeg)
Here is how the loading dock looks next to the structure and loading doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153239.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153239.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153252.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160215153252.jpeg)
Now, one could always assume the loading dock is bolted to the wall. However, in the real world, the loading dock would most likely have an equal amount of support posts under the dock next to the building. If you go back and look at the two photos above, you may agree something appears missing under the dock and next to the wall.
You are now up to date. I'll start work on the roof next.
Tom .... Changed the directions to reflect and adj the size on the chip
Kenny
Quote from: Amagic41 on February 16, 2015, 05:46:13 PM
Tom .... Changed the directions to reflect and adj the size on the chip
Kenny
Ken,
Thanks for the update.
Tom ;D
On the loading dock deck area I added two extra supports. I added one in the front and one in the rear. I then glue a single 2x4 to the two support posts. I left it unpainted so you can see to what I'm referring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141626.jpeg)
Now it's time to move to the roof and roof decking.
In the three photos below you can see the stock roof decking included in the kit.
I'd like to make a few suggestions for a better looking roof, but first the three photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141642.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141642.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141658.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141658.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141711.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141711.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
In the photo below please note two roof decks. The one on the top is the stock one and the one on the bottom is the one I cut. Both are a scale 16' in length. On the one I cut I added 1 scale foot to each side. This is very important as you will see later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141724.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141724.jpeg)
A picture is worth a thousand words so I'll let the photos below do the explanation. The first photo shows the original deck and you can see it isn't wide enough.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141739.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141739.jpeg)
The next photo shows the new deck with the added 2 scale feet in width.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141756.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141756.jpeg)
This is much better and will look better, I promise.
Continued in a few.
On the front deck piece I widened it the scale 2 feet as I did on the rear piece. On this piece I also removed a scale 2 feet from the length. In the photo below you can see the two new deck pieces I cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141814.jpeg)
Notice also the lines on the underside of the decks. They indicate where the building fits on the roof decking.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141906.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141906.jpeg)
The lines in front/rear indicate where the rafter tails will be glued to the underside of the roof.
Here is how the new roof looks on the buiding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141837.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141837.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The next several steps are important should you desire to have a great looking and prototypical model.
Using the scale 2x6's, glue them to the sides of the "A" frame/peaked side as shown in the photo below. These are to be glued flush with the top of the wall section. Cut the 2x6s a few scale feet longer than needed as the excess will be cut off at the outer edge of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141927.jpeg)
Be sure you miter the top (at the peak) and use a new sharp #11 blade to make the cut, referring to the photo above and below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141943.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215141943.jpeg)
Now we'll add the horizontal piece. This is more cosmetic rather than essential, but it is correct as well. This piece is to be glued in place just above the clapboard siding and on the peaked wall portion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142020.jpeg)
I left the piece in place and used the new #11 blade to mark the cut on the right side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142040.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142040.jpeg)
If you are good, the piece fits perfectly. If you need to make an adjustment do so now before moving to the left side.
Continued in a few.
I held the piece and made the left cut. When satisfied with your cuts, glue this piece in place as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142155.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142155.jpeg)
Here is how it looks with the roof in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142301.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142301.jpeg)
NOTE: Don't glue the roof pieces on yet.
I've seen many a great model ruined by not adding the following step to your roof. Turn the deck over and paint the underside of the roof deck the color of your trim or the color of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142430.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142430.jpeg)
Now using the 2x6's cut 8 short rafter tails and glue them in place as seen. They are glued every 2 scale feet and 4 scale feet from the edge. Let them hang over a little as they will be trimmed later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142447.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142447.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When you have added the short rafter tails to the front and back roof decks/panels glue the two roof sections to the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142505.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215142505.jpeg)
When dry, trim the rafter tails using nippers. I used a pair of Xuron nips for this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152747.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152747.jpeg)
Use your trim color to touch up the ends of the rafter tails where cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152806.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Now we are going to add exterior rafters to the roof edge. Using the 2x6 scale stripwood, edge glue them to the edge of the cardboard roof panel flush with the top. Again, don't forget to miter the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152826.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152826.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152842.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152842.jpeg)
Once the rafters have dried, trim and paint as before.
The reason I have the rafters glued to the outer edge of the roof panels is to prevent the edge of the panel from showing once the shingles are added.
Time for a Diet Pepsi break.
Now look at the model below and you can see why I suggested you paint the underside of the roof, why I added the outside rafters and why your patience in a build will pay off in the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152858.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152912.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170215152928.jpeg)
Ken, the extra rafters are only a suggestion but the roof panels do need to be changed. And, the good news is there are no more changes.
I'll add the main roof shingels and loading dock rolled paper in the next few days.
Thanks to all who are following. This a great looking building Ken has and will fit anywhere on the layout.
very nice little kit and excellent build and tutorial.
John
As always, nice job Dr. Evil!
This is a cool little kit. I am glad to see that your able to give the manufacture valuable feedback that is helping him make a better kit. That's going to help everyone in the end.
Sorry to hear about the arm. Did you injure yourself trying to lift those pallets full of "Diet Pepsi" in the garage again? I've told you that they are too heavy and that you need a forklift for the job!
Hehe
It just wouldn't be right if I didn't include a "Diet Pepsi" joke. No offense intended
;D ;D ;D
Great job, Tom. Really like the first floor roof treatment with the tar on the edge of the roof material. Great color combination.
Tom, I love how detailed and clean the build is. Nice tight joints and good lines. I think I will try the way you put on rafter ends on he next build.
Marty
Quote from: Cuse on February 18, 2015, 08:04:04 AM
very nice little kit and excellent build and tutorial.
John
John,
Thanks very much my friend. I'm happy you are enjoying the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bruce.oberleitner on February 18, 2015, 10:48:54 AM
As always, nice job Dr. Evil!
This is a cool little kit. I am glad to see that your able to give the manufacture valuable feedback that is helping him make a better kit. That's going to help everyone in the end.
Sorry to hear about the arm. Did you injure yourself trying to lift those pallets full of "Diet Pepsi" in the garage again? I've told you that they are too heavy and that you need a forklift for the job!
Hehe
It just wouldn't be right if I didn't include a "Diet Pepsi" joke. No offense intended
;D ;D ;D
Cousin Brucie,
Thanks for stopping by, much appreciated. The arm issue was just a little bit of skin cancer removed but it kept me off the layout and at the bench so all wasn't lost. Diet Pepsi jokes are always welcome here.
Tom ;D AKA: Dr. Evil
Quote from: UP Fan on February 18, 2015, 11:24:57 PM
Great job, Tom. Really like the first floor roof treatment with the tar on the edge of the roof material. Great color combination.
Bob,
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate you stopping by for a look see and comment. I've gotta give Karl S. credit for the color combo.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on February 19, 2015, 07:54:24 AM
Tom, I love how detailed and clean the build is. Nice tight joints and good lines. I think I will try the way you put on rafter ends on he next build.
Marty
Marty,
Thank you for the kind words and for stoppping in for a look. I attempt to make my threads as informative as I can. Because of this, they tend to run longer than normal threads and contain lots of photos. After, we all love pictures.
My method of adding rafters on the ends/sides make the model look more prototypical.
I'll be adding more to this thread later this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 16, 2015, 11:54:58 AM
I next added some tar to the rear roof along the edges. For the tar I mixed a little Floquil Grimy Black to some Elmer's White glue and used a toothpick to apply the mixture.
I picked up a bottle of Gallery Glass Liquid Leading for you when I was in JoAnn Fabric the other day. One of these days I'll drop it off and you can give that try to see how you like it for tar. Dave K suggested it in his thread and I used it on the CCK kits I'm building for Bill and Chris. You can give it a try to see what you think. :D
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 19, 2015, 01:28:46 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 16, 2015, 11:54:58 AM
I next added some tar to the rear roof along the edges. For the tar I mixed a little Floquil Grimy Black to some Elmer's White glue and used a toothpick to apply the mixture.
I picked up a bottle of Gallery Glass Liquid Leading for you when I was in JoAnn Fabric the other day. One of these days I'll drop it off and you can give that try to see how you like it for tar. Dave K suggested it in his thread and I used it on the CCK kits I'm building for Bill and Chris. You can give it a try to see what you think. :D
Bob,
Thanks Butty, I'll pick it up this evening.
Tom ;D
This kit includes some roofing shingles. They appear to be wood shingles. They are laser cut from a sheet of brown paper. I wanted them to look a little more wood like in color so I colored them with a Prismacolor Ink Pen. I chose French Grey 10%.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184855.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184855.jpeg)
I chose to use a fresh glue stick for the shingle adhesive. Per the instructions, I started on the bottom and worked up toward to roof ridge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184912.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184912.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184935.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184935.jpeg)
I finished the rear and moved to complete the front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215184952.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I next cut a hole on the rear side for the chimney. I had previously painted the chimney and side wall air vent. The chimney cap and air vent were painted with Moder Masters Jet Exhaust while the chimney was painted with Floquil Gun Metal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185009.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185009.jpeg)
I made a mix of white glue and Grimy Black. I dipped the bottom of the chimney into the tar mix and placed it in the cut opening on the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185032.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185032.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185046.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185046.jpeg)
In the photo above, notice the difference in the color of the rear side roof and the front? When the chimney dried in place, I used pastel earth and wood tone chalks to color the shingles.
Continued in a few.
I then applied the same pastel chalks to the front side. By the way, the next photo shows you can see the exterior rafter and shingles. You see no cardboard edge between them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185102.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185102.jpeg)
Next, I started on the loading dock roof. I glued two scale pieces of 8x8 stripwood to the underside for support in keeping the roof from warping. I cut both ends at an angle so the wood couldn't be seen from the side.
I also cut nine rafter tails and glued them in place as seen below. Remember to cut them longer than needed as they will be trimmed later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185118.jpeg)
I then glued black roofing paper, not included in the kit, to the top side. I left a little at the top and folded it as this will be up against the walls. Also, leave a little on each side as the side rafters are not yet added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185133.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185133.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then added the side rafters, scale 2x6's, to each side and when dry trimmed the paper flush with the rafters. I then glued the loading dock roof to the wall. I used a weight to hold it in place while it dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185149.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185207.jpeg)
The model is actually finished and I'll finish the thread on the build tomorrow afternoon.
Well, go figure, I decided to finish the thread this evening.
The kit includes a 28 inch piece of brass wire to use as supports on the roof of the loading dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185224.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185224.jpeg)
I cut the wire in three equal lengths of 9 inches. On one end of each wire I made a small bend, about 30 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185243.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185243.jpeg)
I used a small #80 drill bit in my small cordless Dremel tool.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185300.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185300.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I drilled three holes in the roof over the rafters. Looking at the roof from the left to right, the holes were made over the #2, #6 and #10 rafters. This centers the three wire supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185316.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185316.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185334.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185334.jpeg)
I then made a test fit of the wire supports on the roof and in the holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185402.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185402.jpeg)
Using a fresh mix of the "tar"/white glue and Grimy Black paint, I dipped the bent end of each wire into the mix and then placed the bent end in the previously drilled holes.
Once I was satisified with the supports (being straight) I used a small toothpick and added a little of the tar mix to the wire where it touches the exterior wall. I set the building to the side and let dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185417.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185417.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Great job... you're in the home stretch. 👍
When all was dry, I painted the three wire supports with Floquil Grimy Black.
I added a pipe and a little smoke to the rear roof as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185439.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185439.jpeg)
I added a sign to the wall next to the loading dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185525.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185525.jpeg)
Here is how the loading dock and roof with supports look when finished. You can see I added just a little pastel chalks for weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185540.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I added the air vent to the right side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185512.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185512.jpeg)
In the photo below, you can see that the guy from Arkansas can't read!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190215185555.jpeg)
Gman, move that dang jalopy! And get the headlight fixed.
I'll post my final thoughts tomorow. Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on February 19, 2015, 07:58:41 PM
Great job... you're in the home stretch.
Dave,
Thank you very much. Now on to another build.
Tom ;D
Great work Tom! 8)
Tom, Great Work !!! ..... All changes , additions , adjustments have been made !! Thank You !!! I think all the adjustments make it a better kit.
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 20, 2015, 08:10:05 AM
Great work Tom! 8)
Gregory,
Thank you Butty, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on February 20, 2015, 08:30:06 AM
Tom, Great Work !!! ..... All changes , additions , adjustments have been made !! Thank You !!! I think all the adjustments make it a better kit.
Ken,
Thank you for the kind words and for letting me do the test build for you. This is a great and can be placed/used for any period layout.
Tom ;D
Awesome job as usual Tom. Thanks again for the tip about using glue sticks on the shingles. I had forgotten about glue stick as I now usually use double side tape for the job. I am guessing that you are using the "permanent" type of glue stick for his job.
Sorry, no DP jokes today. My mind is toast....
;D ;D ;D
Quote from: bruce.oberleitner on February 20, 2015, 10:24:57 AM
Awesome job as usual Tom. Thanks again for the tip about using glue sticks on the shingles. I had forgotten about glue stick as I now usually use double side tape for the job. I am guessing that you are using the "permanent" type of glue stick for his job.
Sorry, no DP jokes today. My mind is toast....
;D ;D ;D
Cousin Brucie,
Your kind words are appreciated. This was a fun build and I felt honored Jeff Grove of CCK, recommended me to Ken of KC's.
Yes, thanks for mentioning the "Permanent" glue stick. I used the Scotch 3M brand permanent glue stick for the shingles.
Here's a Diet Pepsi one for you cousin. I was on the Babe's nerves one day last week. She simply said, " I think you need a Diet Pepsi big boy"! So, if your mind is toast, "Have a Diet Pepsi big boy"!
Tom 8)
Is that what I've been doing wrong all these years? I'm not drinking ENOUGH Diet Pepsi?
Well HELL, that's a lot cheaper than all those session at the doctor.
;D ;D ;D
8)
Tom and Bruce..........
You keep addressing each other as cousin............. If that truly is the case............. One of you should be REALLY nervous.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bruce.oberleitner on February 21, 2015, 02:22:19 PM
Is that what I've been doing wrong all these years? I'm not drinking ENOUGH Diet Pepsi?
Well HELL, that's a lot cheaper than all those session at the doctor.
;D ;D ;D
8)
Cousin Brucie,
As I said, "have a Diet Pepsi, and save the Dr. money"!
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on February 21, 2015, 03:49:11 PM
Tom and Bruce..........
You keep addressing each other as cousin............. If that truly is the case............. One of you should be REALLY nervous.
see ya
Bob
Bob,
I refer to Bruce as Cousin Brucie after the disc jockey on the XM radio and he calls me Uncle Tommy and Dr. Evil, neither which is true! ;D ;D Well, not the Uncle part anway. 8)
Tom ;D
I dunno Tom.......
This is pretty scarey stuff..
see ya
Bob
Speaking of cousins: When I was on active duty in the late 1970s, one of my sergeants was white guy named "Battle", and one of the guys we supported was an African American also named "Battle". The two got to talking, and discovered their families came from the same part of North Carolina. After that, it was "Cousin Bill" and "Cousin Greg."
dave
Staggers the imagination.
see ya
Quote from: bparrish on February 21, 2015, 06:36:51 PM
Staggers the imagination.
see ya
Don't it though?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. Like the colors.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on February 23, 2015, 11:42:24 AM
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. Like the colors.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, very much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Instead of starting a new thread under the Diorama's heading, I'll just continue the build here. I told KC I didn't want to ship the building to him but would do a dio and bring it to the EXPO.
I cut a piece of blue foam 11.5" x 11.5" and drew out a layout plan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190233.jpeg)
I cut out the ditch area and added the sub roadbed and track. For the subroadbed I used a piece of 1/8" stripwood cut to fit. I used a section of ME code 83 track.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190250.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190250.jpeg)
I glued the sub roadbed to the foam with Elmer's Carpenter Wood Glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190303.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190303.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Happy to see thread continue into scenery. 👍
Once the sub roadbed was dry I glue the track in place using the same Elmer's Wood Glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190320.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315190320.jpeg)
I want everyone to know this thread is strictly on the straight and level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315192026.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315192026.jpeg)
The structure will be in this area on the dio.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315192040.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070315192040.jpeg)
Quote from: Dave K. on March 07, 2015, 07:21:29 PM
Happy to see thread continue into scenery.
Dave,
Thanks for following and yes, I am too. This is the first scenery I've done since I removed the old layuot. That scenery was being removed, not added. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Glad I could help you get warmed up for all the scenery you have coming for the new layout ( lol ) Thanks Again !!
Quote from: Amagic41 on March 07, 2015, 08:31:09 PM
Tom
Glad I could help you get warmed up for all the scenery you have coming for the new layout ( lol ) Thanks Again !!
Ken,
Yes, you got me kick started w/o having to kick me, which is a good thing I guess. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
I next painted some Elmer's Yellow Glue on the foam and cut a piece of cardboard for the road. I also cut a short piece of stripwood for a sidewalk. I scribed some expansion joints and cracks and then painted it Floquil Aged Concrete. The sidewalk isn't glued in place yet.
Note I didn't add glue past the ditch as the road angles up slightly here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154432.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154432.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154452.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154452.jpeg)
You probably noticed that I added scale 8x8 stripwood for a foundation. A wooden structure wouldn't just sit on the ground.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154514.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
By adding the 8x8's the loading dock is now above the ground level. I added a short piece of 8x8 so it has something to rest on. Not to worry as dirt will be filled in, on and around the loading dock supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154543.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154559.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154559.jpeg)
I covered the ditch sides with some Hydrocal and set the dio to the side to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154613.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080315154613.jpeg)
The cardboard road was painted with Elmer's White Glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153028.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153028.jpeg)
I used a soft 1/4" brush to paint the white glue. If you ever use this method of road construction, be sure to apply the glue to the edges of the cardboard as well. The white glue seals the cardboard and the glue dries smooth so don't be to concerned how it looks when applied as seen below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153048.jpeg)
See, I told you not to worry. This is how it looks when the white glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153104.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153104.jpeg)
Also, I can't take credit for the road construction method. On one of my visits to Howard Zane's layout, he showed me how to do it.
You may have noticed I used Elmer's Wood Filler to fill in the gaps around the road and track. The wood filler is very easy to work with and dries very hard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153123.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153123.jpeg)
After letting the wood filler dry for a few days, I added the tracdk ballast. I used a combination of Woodland Scenics Fine Light Grey and Buff for the ballast. I had plenty of the ballast left over from the old layout. For my new Atlantic and Southern RR I'll be using Arizona Rock for the ballast.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153141.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150315153141.jpeg)
I sprayed the ballast with "wet" water and then used an eye dropper to apply a liberal amount of diluted matte medium to the ballast.
When the ballast dries I'll weather the track and ballast. I'll paint the roadway at that time also.
Hi Tom:
This should look pretty nice upon completion. I'll be following along.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on March 16, 2015, 10:23:32 AM
Hi Tom:
This should look pretty nice upon completion. I'll be following along.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much, appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Instead of going on a step by step of what I did I believe the photos will explain enough.
The track and ballast were weathered. Scenic Express Dirt was added, Woodland Scenics grass and foliage were added. A few trees were added and the roadway marked and grease in the middle was added.
If Kenney chooses, he can add other detail such as RR crossing signs, trash and etc. The dio is now ready for the trip to Scranton.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174314.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174314.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174331.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174348.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174348.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174402.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174420.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174437.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174458.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174513.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174534.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174608.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174636.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174650.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174706.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174721.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174802.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174816.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174836.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210315174851.jpeg)
Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
It looks great Tom!
Love this - really like the cracked road - Cerzullo's been loadin' his trucks with too
many oranges!!
Beautiful work .... just beautiful.
Tom, I always enjoy the precision of your work. Looks great.
Bravo...just fantastic! 👍
Nice work Tom. I agree with what Dustin says about your precision. Whether it's trackwork, benchwork, rafter tails, or structure corners - it's always perfect! I aspire to have a fraction of your patience.
John
:D Looks great Tom. I assume we'll be taking this one with us to the EXPO and I'll get to see it there. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on March 21, 2015, 06:08:24 PM
It looks great Tom!
John,
Thank you, see you on Tuesday evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on March 21, 2015, 08:07:18 PM
Love this - really like the cracked road - Cerzullo's been loadin' his trucks with too
many oranges!!
Gman,
Good to see you my friend. Not so much all the oranges but the cheap county commission and FDOT.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on March 21, 2015, 08:42:31 PM
Beautiful work .... just beautiful.
Donato,
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: coors2u on March 22, 2015, 07:23:45 AM
Tom, I always enjoy the precision of your work. Looks great.
Dustin,
Thank you for the very generous and kind feedback. I very much appreciate it. This was a fun build and wait until you see my next big build. Here is a hint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241014110022.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241014110022.jpeg)
Railscale Miniatures Delwin's Boat and Net Storage.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on March 22, 2015, 07:25:09 AM
Bravo...just fantastic!
Dave,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on March 22, 2015, 09:24:44 AM
Nice work Tom. I agree with what Dustin says about your precision. Whether it's trackwork, benchwork, rafter tails, or structure corners - it's always perfect! I aspire to have a fraction of your patience.
John
John,
Thank you, I very much appreciate you support in all my endeavors. I'm not sure I have all the patience ya'll give me credit for. You should see what happens between the scenes/posts. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 22, 2015, 11:17:37 AM
:D Looks great Tom. I assume we'll be taking this one with us to the EXPO and I'll get to see it there. ;D ;D ;D
Bob,
Much appreciated, thanks. Yes, we'll be taking this one with us so Kenny, KC's Workshop, can have it for his display! I will be quite happy to view the one you did for RS.
Tom ;D
Tom ..... Turned out great !!!! Can't wait to put it on display this weekend .... Thanks again !!
Thanks for sharing this kit build by this newer company. I checked his website tonight and he offers some neat details for sale too. Nice job on your build !
Quote from: Amagic41 on March 22, 2015, 12:40:00 PM
Tom ..... Turned out great !!!! Can't wait to put it on display this weekend .... Thanks again !!
Ken,
Thank you, very much appreciated. And, thank you for letting me build this one for you. We got through the changes and I'm very pleased how it all turned out. I have it ready to deliver as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 24, 2015, 02:02:07 AM
Thanks for sharing this kit build by this newer company. I checked his website tonight and he offers some neat details for sale too. Nice job on your build !
Tom,
Thank you for your kind words and following along. This was a fun build and the kit is one that can fit anywhere on a layout, trackside or other wise. The awning on the front of this kit was from one of Ken's detail packages.
Tom ;D
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 24, 2015, 05:47:05 AM
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 24, 2015, 02:02:07 AM
Thanks for sharing this kit build by this newer company. I checked his website tonight and he offers some neat details for sale too. Nice job on your build !
Tom,
Thank you for your kind words and following along. This was a fun build and the kit is one that can fit anywhere on a layout, trackside or other wise. The awning on the front of this kit was from one of Ken's detail packages.
Tom ;D
Tom
And the awning has been widened and added to the kit
Tom
Is the road technique simply cardboard and glue? What color did you use to paint it? The color between the tracks appears more brown than the road and the road looks like there is a little more texture than just glue on cardboard. Nice work.
Thanks
Jon
Quote from: jonnyci on March 24, 2015, 11:41:41 PM
Tom
Is the road technique simply cardboard and glue? What color did you use to paint it? The color between the tracks appears more brown than the road and the road looks like there is a little more texture than just glue on cardboard. Nice work.
Thanks
Jon
Jon,
Thank you for stopping by. Yes, the road is actually a piece of cardboard just as I showed in the build. You can get a piece 3X3 ft. for about $3.00 at Sam Flax Art Supply store. I painted it with Floquil Grey after coating it with the Elmer's White Glue. The texture appearance on the road may be to the way the glue dried.
The area on the road around/over the tracks is nothing more than stripwood painted and stained with Alcohol and India Ink mix. The scale stripwood is the scale size of 2X8's.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Tom ;D
Hi tom:
Very nice diorama. Came out great.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on March 30, 2015, 09:47:35 AM
Hi tom:
Very nice diorama. Came out great.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you, much appreciated. It was a fun project. I gave it to Kenny at the EXPO.
Tom ;D
Well ... did he like it?
(I did !!)
Quote from: Donato on March 30, 2015, 12:48:17 PM
Well ... did he like it?
(I did !!)
Well, he said he did. I believe he did, he had it on display!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 30, 2015, 12:51:04 PM
Quote from: Donato on March 30, 2015, 12:48:17 PM
Well ... did he like it?
(I did !!)
Well, he said he did. I believe he did, he had it on display!
Tom ;D
... he must have seen you approaching ....!!! ;)
Great build, Tom. Thanks for the terrific tutorial on scenery. I'll apply some of the techniques on my layout.
Quote from: Donato on March 30, 2015, 12:48:17 PM
Well ... did he like it?
(I did !!)
Yes I loved it !!! It is the new display model!!
Quote from: UP Fan on March 31, 2015, 04:33:28 PM
Great build, Tom. Thanks for the terrific tutorial on scenery. I'll apply some of the techniques on my layout.
Bob,
Thank you, much appreciated. It is a great building to add to any layout.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on March 31, 2015, 04:58:42 PM
Quote from: Donato on March 30, 2015, 12:48:17 PM
Well ... did he like it?
(I did !!)
Yes I loved it !!! It is the new display model!!
Kenny,
Thanks for letting me build it for you, the structure and the small diorama. Also, I'm happy it met with your approval.
It was nice meeting you and your lovely wife at the Expo. I'll not be going to the next two as I need to get moving on this layout. The NMRA Convention will be in Orlando, July 2017.
Tom ;D