The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 2

[deemery]

Tom, have you had any problems using 'conventional' lumber (1x4) for benchwork, with Florida humidity causing warping?  I know some people recommend ripping 1x4 out of 3/4" plywood, but that's a lot of extra work and I'm not sure if if the benefit is there.


dave

[Janbouli]

Tom...

I have a solution for the running thread support rod on your upper level.

Go down to a local big box store and get a spray can of clear paint. Gloss, satin or flat does not matter. Clear is clear. Apply vigorously and in several coats.

After that no one will see the rod as it is now clear.

Voila'. Problem solved. Always happy to help. 

See ya
Bob

Or you could get some Ghost Tape, same result.

[Lynnb]

You'll never hear me say too many pics, keep them coming.

[jerryrbeach]

Tom, have you had any problems using 'conventional' lumber (1x4) for benchwork, with Florida humidity causing warping?  I know some people recommend ripping 1x4 out of 3/4" plywood, but that's a lot of extra work and I'm not sure if if the benefit is there.


dave

Dave,

I know you addressed this question to Tom, but I'm going to hijack his thread briefly and give you my two cents.  I strongly considered ripping the 1x4's for my modular layout from sheets of 3/4" plywood.  But, before I bought any plywood, thankfully I read the user reviews.  Almost every type of interior plywood from one of the "big box" lumber yards; regardless of species, birch, oak, etc., was reviewed as having voids in the substrate portions of the sheet.  Once I read the reviews, I decided to go with conventional lumber.
That being said, IMO you have two choices to minimize the issue of warping.  Either pay more and buy top quality lumber from a smaller "mom & pop" yard, or go prepared to spend time sorting through all the stacks of 1x4's regardless of length.  I ended up buying 16' lengths more often than shorter boards.  First, it cost less per foot to buy the 16 footers.  Second, it seemed to me to be easier to find better quality, IMO because the shorter lengths sell better, and thus are more picked over.  I also brought the lumber into the house for a few days before I used it to allow it to acclimate.  I did have a problem with one of my table tops warping.  Two of the 1x4's developed a twist.  I replaced them and changed from 1/4" plywood table tops, chosen to reduce weight, to 1/2" ply.  I also became more vigilant in checking the boards for a "twist".  The boards that showed even a slight twist were used for leg braces rather than the tables themselves.  Thus far, knock on wood, everything is straight and true.
I hope that you will post a thread so we can follow along with your design and construction.

[deemery]

Jerry, thanks for answering.  It'll be helpful to compare your experience with Tom's.  If I did go the plywood strip route, I decided to use higher quality plywood.  It's not that much more expensive, and you're less likely to find those holes or glue-outs. 


Most people I've talked to are using 3/4" plywood for the tops, but I'm thinking about 1/2" mostly for weight.  I'm not so much worried about the weight of the finished layout, than the weight of the materials that I have to carry from the lumber yard to the basement by myself :-)


dave

[Zephyrus52246]

I'll add my two cents here as well.  Most of my lumber is ripped 3/4 inch birch plywood from Lowe's.  I really had very few "holes" in substrate.  I have them rip the 4x8 foot sheet in half as I can no longer carry a 4x8 sheet myself.     Of course the saw is broken at Lowe's half the time, so you may have to go back a couple of times.  One time when the Lowe's saw was out of commission, I did get a few plywood panels at a contractor's lumber store which were a bit nicer quality, but cost $12 a sheet more. 


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

I have a question for Tom.  You may have mentioned it somewhere in the threads, but what type of operating system are you going to use?  Timetable/train order?  Switch lists? Car cards? Just let someone run trains at light speed end to end?   


Jeff

[Lynnb]

Just my input , I use to use 1/2 and since maturing in the hobby I have learned that 3/4 is much better for everything, also you then only need to buy one length of screws and scrap 3/4 is handy for risers etc.

[GPdemayo]

.....Just let someone run trains at light speed end to end?   


Jeff

Et tu Doc.....

[deemery]

.....Just let someone run trains at light speed end to end?   


Jeff

Et tu Doc.....

Them Docs and running at light speed... 

[ACL1504]

Tom...

I have a solution for the running thread support rod on your upper level.

Go down to a local big box store and get a spray can of clear paint. Gloss, satin or flat does not matter. Clear is clear. Apply vigorously and in several coats.

After that no one will see the rod as it is now clear.

Voila'. Problem solved. Always happy to help. 

See ya
Bob

Bob,

I tired the Tom Terrific trick using lemon juice. That didn't work either.

I don't even see the threaded rod support now. It blends in on ya.

Tom

[ACL1504]

These two sections will be screwed in place tomorrow. In preparation, I used a carpenters square and marked where the cross braces are located under the plywood.

Prior to laying the plywood in place I marked the edges of the 1X3 so the screw will be in the center of the 1X3 cross brace. By marking the plywood in the same manner, the screws will be located between the lines which represent the 1X3's below.



Thanks for following along on this new adventure, the third level build.

I'm all braced and aligned for more photos Sunday.

Chip,

That is good and I hope you are on the level as well.

1:1 stuff held up the Sunday photos.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,

The LED lighting is stunning!  Yet again you have again caused me to rethink how I go about my modeling.  I now wish I had used a shadowbox approach to building my modules so I could light my layout with LED's as you did.   

Jerry,

You can still use LEDs on your layout. You only need to build a light weight canopy over the existing layout.

Tom

Tom,

Since I saw your photos I have been trying to figure out how I might support such a canopy over the layout.  Right now I am of the opinion that I would have to use some steel or aluminum angle to construct the canopy.  I do not think wood supports would be rigid enough to avoid the canopy sagging over time.  I believe that I could have used wood supports had I designed the modules differently. 

Jerry,

I took another look at your layout thread. What about using a 1X1 vertical post with a 1X1 horizontal post secured with a triangle brace? Top cover could be either black fabric or poster board. Very little weight for the total. The 1x1 could be fastened to the rear of the banch work.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Good Morning Tom.


Love what you are doing with the lighting. I have never been satisfied with the florescent (sp) lighting I have. Since my layout is all curves, can I contour the LED lights to a 7 ft. radius? Your opinion. I would make a support system that would also allow me to include a drape from the ceiling down, giving a greater feeling of depth to the layout. Really like what you are doing, my friend.


Frank / Erieman

Frank,

I think you could make the LEDs a curved configuration by doing them in 14-16" sections, like a linear curve using straight sections on the curve. I'm going to make a curtain drop for the layout as well. This will be after the third level is finished.

Always good to talk to you on  the phone.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom, have you had any problems using 'conventional' lumber (1x4) for benchwork, with Florida humidity causing warping?  I know some people recommend ripping 1x4 out of 3/4" plywood, but that's a lot of extra work and I'm not sure if if the benefit is there.


dave

Dave,

I've never had a problem with the 1X4 warping but the key is to not buy them that way.

The large box stores, I'll use Lowe's as this is where I get my 1X4s,has them in a vertical bin. The best time to get wood from Lowe's is on Monday or Tuesday. The wood is all picked over on the weekends. They restock on Sunday night.

I can still find cupped, warped and twisted 1X4s in the new stock. I go through 10 boards for every one I purchase.

When I bring the wood home, I let it sit in the layout room for a few days to adjust to my room climate/humidity.

I did consider using cabinet grade 3/4" plywood ripped to 1X4's but decided not to go that route. Extra work, yes, beneficial in my opinion, No.

Tom