Falk Locomotive build

bparrish · June 13, 2014, 11:29:49 AM

Thanx gents........

You boys are too complimentary ........... Brass is not tough to work with and if you miss with a hole somewhere you simply solder it closed and move over.

Regarding completeness............ I have left the rear draft gear, fire box under the frame, installing the gear case and motor and the winch on the front. I'm onto the draft stuff this afternoon and then the fire box.

I'm trying to get away for a week to the Oregon coast and then down to Eureka were the prototype is located and operational. I need to be a bit more up to speed on the winch. No plans of photos show the valve gear for the gypsy engine that runs the winch very well.

see ya
Bob

bparrish · June 17, 2014, 06:51:46 PM

So this is as far as I'm going to get for a time. Leaving in the morning for Seattle and the PNR regional convention.

I'm taking a week or two after that for some other travels including a stop in Eureka to see the prototype of this loco.

I'll find ya when I get back.

Don't let the other riff faff give away the store.

see ya
Bob

S&S RR · June 17, 2014, 07:20:12 PM

Bob

The locomotive looks great! Have a great trip.

postalkarl · June 20, 2014, 07:57:29 AM

Hi:

Very very nice work. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Karl

DACS · July 01, 2014, 02:45:49 AM

I have been watching you work on this Bob, and reading all the comments. I have waited, bated my timing and have finally decided that I have only one thing to say...awesome sir. Freaking awesome! This is counted as the quality, of a true craftsman. O gracious, that's three things.

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

bparrish · July 01, 2014, 11:28:29 AM

Dave.

Thank you

We are traveling and I've gotten nothing new done on it for over a week. Wee home next Saturday and I'll hit it again.

Again. Thanx
Bob

bparrish · July 08, 2014, 04:57:20 PM

So I got back Saturday night and spent a few days getting back up to speed around the place.

I've been procrastinating about doing the gear case for months. My maxim for procrastination is as follows:

The sooner you get behind............. the more time you have to catch up.

With that................. I got these wheels from Allan Pollock at Missouri Locomotive and they came with a gear on the axle that I cannot use. I am going to graft in a 1948 Mantua gear case as they work very well and are good solid runners at 24-1.

I need to open up the bronze bushings in the gear case as well as the gear that must be a -.0005 fit. That's pretty tight for modeling.

This is requiring me to pull a wheel and bearing from one side. Thus I needed to make a quartering jig for this scale. I have an HO quartering jig but nothing this large. So ...... four metal squares later I have it made up.......... in all of it's primitive weirdness. As seen below.

I have two more of these old gear cases so I have a few tries at this but it is criminal to uses these old parts indiscriminately.

Also I'm putting up a photo of the starting condition of the Mantua gear case.

I'll pull the wheel off next and start assembling parts onto the asle.

see ya
Bob

S&S RR · July 08, 2014, 09:02:29 PM

Quote from: bparrish on July 08, 2014, 04:57:20 PM
So I got back Saturday night and spent a few days getting back up to speed around the place.

I've been procrastinating about doing the gear case for months. My maxim for procrastination is as follows:

The sooner you get behind............. the more time you have to catch up.

With that................. I got these wheels from Allan Pollock at Missouri Locomotive and they came with a gear on the axle that I cannot use. I am going to graft in a 1948 Mantua gear case as they work very well and are good solid runners at 24-1.

I need to open up the bronze bushings in the gear case as well as the gear that must be a -.0005 fit. That's pretty tight for modeling.

This is requiring me to pull a wheel and bearing from one side. Thus I needed to make a quartering jig for this scale. I have an HO quartering jig but nothing this large. So ...... four metal squares later I have it made up.......... in all of it's primitive weirdness. As seen below.

I have two more of these old gear cases so I have a few tries at this but it is criminal to uses these old parts indiscriminately.

Also I'm putting up a photo of the starting condition of the Mantua gear case.

I'll pull the wheel off next and start assembling parts onto the asle.

see ya
Bob

When you don't have a tool or part you have to make it from what you have on hand! This thread is great!

DACS · July 16, 2014, 09:15:23 AM

Ok, I am starting to suffer from Post partum depression here.

Lookin' for the next installment on this beautiful build!

Dave HWCRR
Seattle

bparrish · July 16, 2014, 04:27:21 PM

Ok.......... Ok

I just got back from Yellowstone and will start again on it tomorrow..

Thanx for looking in
Bob

bparrish · July 18, 2014, 11:24:19 AM

I'm back at it after nearly a month.

I got these wheels and bearings from a loco importer and had to take off one wheel and bearing to get their gear off and a gear from an old Mantua gear case pressed on. Their bearing was WAY tighter than it needed to be. I'll be relieving some of that before I go back together.

I had to use an automotive tie rod end puller to get enough beans to get it to come off. Then used a series of straight reamers to reset the gear bore and the bushings that the case rides onto the axle.

see ya
Bob

The puller lash up.

Starting back together.

bparrish · July 20, 2014, 01:32:06 AM

So with the wheels back on the axle and the quartering recovered and tested for ease before anything else is added, here is the rough bracket for the motor mount.

And then the completed motor mount.

And the complete motor stand.

Here is a view of the gear case from the under side of the loco.

bparrish · July 20, 2014, 01:40:44 AM

This doesn't look like a whole days work but here are the last two photos from this afternoon.

First is the gear case suspension arm. This has to be flexible as the axles are sprung and all of this needs to float with no resistance delivered to the bushings on the axle.

The U joint cup is seen on the worm shaft. It is a mid size Northwest Short Line drive line part.

After twisting off two NWSL dog bone drive shafts due to harmonics at certain speeds I had to crank out a brass one. It is made from a piece of .125" brass rod, .300" long and ground down. Then two cross pins are drilled in and soldered. Notice that they are 90 degrees out from each other. The manufacturer makes them on the same plane; thus the harmonics. I was in the car business too long and learned that U joints need to be indexed.