Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0

[jerryrbeach]

Good looking feed store Jerry.....

Thank you, Greg.  Compliments are always welcome!

I'm planning to find some time to work on the layout today, and maybe post an update.

[jerryrbeach]

The track gang has been busy, though there is still a long way to go before they will be done. 

I used three different methods to cut the track.  My favorite, and the fastest is to use the Xuron flush cutting pliers.  The drawback is that only one side cuts flush.  The other side of the cut is jagged and the rail has to be cut again to make the ends square. 

The Dremel requires a steady hand to get a clean vertical and square cut.  If done right, both ends of the cut rails do not need a second cut to be ready to be used. 

I used the Zona saw and miter box for one specific cut where I needed both rails to fit together exactly and the Dremel would have removed too much material, ditto the Xuron. 

I used the triangular file to nick the tops of the rail to mark the cut location.  I used the flat file to square the ends of the rail if necessary, and also to remove any burrs caused by the cut. 

Not pictured in this photo because I was wearing them are my safety glasses.  Obviously, when using the Dremel, safety glasses are a necessity.  I wear them when cutting with the Xuron pliers, too, short cutoff rail ends fly fast and in unpredictable directions.  In fact, I usually put them on when I start working on the layout, and leave them on until I stop.

[jerryrbeach]

I mentioned when describing the track planning that I had drawn the center line for the track onto the painted foam using the paper template.   I bonded the cork with the adhesive keeping it centered on the line.  This made it easy to align the track, as long as it is centered on the cork, everything fits as planned.  Once the cork was bonded in place, I used a sanding block with some 80 grit paper to sand the cork so that it was at a uniform height. 

First I would locate any turnouts, or other critical pieces, like the joints where the tables separate.  I would use some track nails to hold those pieces in place temporarily and measure and cut the adjacent tracks to length.  Once all pieces for one section were cut, I would test fit everything in place and make sure I had it as precise as possible. 

After that, I would lay it aside, lay down a bead of the latex caulk on the cork, spread the caulk thinly with a putty knife, then lay the track in place.  I would secure the track using track nails, most of which went back into the original holes I had made when test fitting everything.  After that, lots of weights and wait for the caulk to dry. 

[jerryrbeach]

The track is done, for the most part.  I haven't finished up the "L" section (left top of the photo), still not sure what I am going to model in that area. 

Next up is wiring, my absolute least favorite part of the hobby.  This will take some thought since each module has to be wired separately, and then connected to the others so all will operate as one.  Given my dislike of wiring, I'll be working on some structures while doing the wiring.  That should keep me motivated through a task I find less than enjoyable. 

Photo shows the plan, shot from the current open end.  The track extending into the foreground by the joint at the end is on a small piece of makeshift table top.  The one foot wide piece is screwed to the module to allow some limited operation prior to construction of the next module, and continuation of the track.

[jerryrbeach]

I have been taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather to work outside so there is not much progress on the layout to report. 

I have placed a few structures on the layout and put together cardboard mockups for other possible structures.  In a couple other spots I have simply placed a square of paper that represents the footprint of a structure.  These get moved around frequently as I have some new ideas on what might look better. 

[ACL1504]

Jerry,

Well done on the track and roadbed. The track plan looks like it will present many opportunities for switching.

One thing I could never do is make myself do the white building mock ups. Usually it didn't cause any issues, but there is always that Murphy guy standing off to the side and he gets me now and then.

Looking really good Jerry.

Tom

[tct855]

Jerry,

         I've been lurking over your pages here.  I'm pickin' up, what you're laying down.  Love the track work, looks to have some interesting switching moves for sure.  That Pepacton feed store looks awesome. 

If that master manufacturer Jimmy D. can get you some of his new castings to include with your structure building.  I think the rest of us will be served a big dish of eye candy for sure, and being horizontally challenged as I'am.  I know my candy.
                                                                                 Thanx Thom...

[MAP]

Great progress Jerry.  I'm having fun watching your layout come to life.

[jerryrbeach]

Jerry,

Well done on the track and roadbed. The track plan looks like it will present many opportunities for switching.

One thing I could never do is make myself do the white building mock ups. Usually it didn't cause any issues, but there is always that Murphy guy standing off to the side and he gets me now and then.

Looking really good Jerry.

Tom

Tom,

I think that a small layout such as mine has to be approached almost like a diorama.  I am trying to distract the viewer from noticing how congested this is for a small town.  The use of the mockups allows me to have a better idea of where I want the viewer to focus, and how to draw his attention to certain scenes.  If I can do that successfully then the small overall size is less obvious.  Thankfully many kit manufacturers include full size drawings with the instructions.  I simply copy the drawings onto some 110# cardstock using my printer, cut them out, a little scotch tape, and I am better able to visualize how things fit together.

[jerryrbeach]

Jerry,

         I've been lurking over your pages here.  I'm pickin' up, what you're laying down.  Love the track work, looks to have some interesting switching moves for sure.  That Pepacton feed store looks awesome. 

If that master manufacturer Jimmy D. can get you some of his new castings to include with your structure building.  I think the rest of us will be served a big dish of eye candy for sure, and being horizontally challenged as I'am.  I know my candy.
                                                                                 Thanx Thom...

Thom,

Thanks for following along.  IMO, a smaller layout offers many opportunities for super detailing.  I usually add a few castings to each structure when I build it.  I have lots more saved in the hopes they will help the layout come to life.  I love George's castings and am looking forward to having them available outside of his kits.

[jerryrbeach]

Great progress Jerry.  I'm having fun watching your layout come to life.

Mark,

Thanks for following along.

Progress has slowed due to the unseasonably warm weather, but I hope to get back up to speed when temperatures turn colder at the end of the week.

[jerryrbeach]

I have done research into what the track and ties would have probably looked like on the D&N around 1920.  It is doubtful that any of the ties used in the original construction were treated with creosote and also likely that most (all?) of the replacement ties were untreated.  Photos show that the original ballast was gravel, and in many photos has an appearance closer to dirt than gravel. The only track that looks like it had cinder ballast was that in the vicinity of the engine house in Margaretville, along with track between there and Arkville, a couple miles north.  Remnants of the roadbed that I have explored in other areas show no evidence of any cinders.

This means the roadbed will have a pretty non-traditional look.  The ties will be a weathered gray, not the darker brown/black modelers are used to seeing on a layout.  The ballast will be gravel or dirt, with a few areas of cinders. 

I used an old chunk of fiber tie brass track glued to a scrap piece of 1x3 to do a test strip of track and ballast.  I started by spraying the track and ties with Rustoleum camo brown as I did with the track on the layout.  I have experimented with using sand for ballast.  I sifted some "traction sand" from Lowe's through two different mesh screens.  It looks OK, but I think it might look better if it had a little more reddish/brownish cast more typical of the area.  I think I will purchase some tinted grout and try adding that to the sifted sand to see if coloring it slightly offers a better appearance. 

I painted most of the ties varying shades of gray using acrylic paint.  I secured the ballast using diluted white glue.  I was a little disappointed to note that after the glue dried there was a faint sheen to the ballast and ties.  I gave the test strip a quick shot of Dullcoat to kill the sheen.  Obviously, I cannot spray the entire layout with Dullcoat, so further experimentation is planned, this time using matte medium.

The test strip was photographed next to a more traditional cinder ballasted roadbed on a photo diorama.  The right end of the test strip was ballasted with sifted dirt to give an idea of what industrial spurs might look like.   

[jbvb]

In 1920, in that area most ties would have been untreated American Chestnut.  But the Chestnut Blight was killing the trees off rapidly, so by 1930 there would be  some new creosoted oak replacements.

[ACL1504]

Jerry,

I believe the look you are going for will be wonderful. I do like the idea on lighter ties and gravel or dirt ballast. I think your layout, er diorama, will be just perfect.

I definitely like the idea of staying as close to the original D&N as you can. It's the main reason I removed all the mountains on the 1st. A&S RR and redid it in Florida scenery.

All thumbs up from me my friend.

Tom

[jerryrbeach]

In 1920, in that area most ties would have been untreated American Chestnut.  But the Chestnut Blight was killing the trees off rapidly, so by 1930 there would be  some new creosoted oak replacements.

James,
Thanks for your observations, I believe that Chestnut would have been preferred for ties due to its relative longevity and density when left untreated in the weather.  I hadn't thought about any specific species of wood for the ties, simply based my conclusions on a couple things. 
First, the early rail group on yahoo had a discussion on treated vs. untreated ties around the turn of the Century.  At the time, only a few of the larger railroads were treating ties, the majority of the railroads used non-treated ties since it was cheaper to replace ties than to treat them.  Obviously, this changed as the forests were cut off and ties increased substantially in price roughly around the end of WWI. 
Second, most photos of the D&N roadbed show ties and ballast as lighter than the rails in black and white photos.  Coupled with this, in my visits to the area, very few sections of the remaining roadbed show any evidence of cinder ballast.
This led me to try to model the track and roadbed for this barely solvent shortline differently than that seen on most model railroads.