SRMW Threadwell Textile on the S&S RR

Started by S&S RR, August 09, 2018, 09:36:23 AM

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S&S RR

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

After 5 hours of curing time. I'm hoping to add coat 2 before I go to bed tonight. Stay tuned.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

While I was waiting for water to dry - I wired up the Delabarre LED's and completed the wiring necessary to tie them together with the Treadwell's LED's.


I'm not going to go through the wiring like I did Threadwell's but just will remind you that I'm using the techniques "SLIM" describes in his Lite Bites articles.  I have them all in a notebook and refer back to them every time I plug in the soldiering gun.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Here is a picture of the back of the diorama with the wiring showing.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

When all the connections were made we plugged it in and watched for smoke.  Seeing none - I turned out the lights and took some pictures.  This is the view from the back.  This is like the dark side of the moon - it will not be visible on the layout. The reflections you are seeing are from the LED's reflecting off other stuff in the room.  The LED's are the only light.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

The view from a few more angles. Test complete.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

I will be adding outside lighting - goose neck lights on poles and on the buildings as part of the final detailing of the structures. The connections are already on the connection blocks waiting for the wires to be run.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

EricQuebec

Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2019, 07:12:25 PM
The instructions on the bottle say 20-30 minutes curing time - but I don't know how thin the coat has to be to get those results.  I will be applying the material with trowel to different depths including as thin as I can get it.
Hi John,
the 20-30 minutes curing time is for a very  thin coat applied with a brush.
It's the cause why I use Modge podge only for the 2 first coat on my water before applying Golden gloss  thick gel
Eric

S&S RR

Quote from: EricQuebec on January 06, 2019, 09:04:47 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2019, 07:12:25 PM
The instructions on the bottle say 20-30 minutes curing time - but I don't know how thin the coat has to be to get those results.  I will be applying the material with trowel to different depths including as thin as I can get it.
Hi John,
the 20-30 minutes curing time is for a very  thin coat applied with a brush.
It's the cause why I use Modge podge only for the 2 first coat on my water before applying Golden gloss  thick gel
Eric


Eric


Thank you for the input. I applied the second coat last night before bed.  This morning there is still some white areas so the second coat is drying a little slower than the first. So far I think this is going to work but it is not a fast process. I plan on playing some games with this once I get the depth I'm looking for.  I think I will then apply a few coats of the Golden leveling material that gave me the problems.  I want to see how it behaves in thin coats.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

deemery

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 10, 2019, 10:22:18 AM
Any updates on the water?


dave


Dave


Yes making some progress - I'm working on it and taking pictures as I go. Using a brush and applying thin coats - the cure time is around 2 hours. I should note that I started with the trowel but after 2 coats decided I wasn't getting enough control of the depth.  May be my skill level with a trowel - but I started using a 1 inch brush on coat 3 of the test piece. After applying 5 coats to my test piece - I started applying coats to my model. I just applied my third coat to the model.  It is drying nice and clear with a few bubbles. The bubbles are not going to be a problem because this model will be 4 feet from the viewer on the layout so I'm going for it. I would like to get rid of the brush strokes in the final coats so I'm trying the self leveling Golden material over the Mod Podge on my test piece.


One observation is that with every coat you get a few bubbles - after 5 or six coats you have more bubbles that would be easy to get rid of with a heat source and resin.


I will report back with pictures as soon as I get this process completed.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

deemery

Glad to hear you're making forward progress (even if there's the occasional backwards step.)


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 10, 2019, 02:49:29 PM
Glad to hear you're making forward progress (even if there's the occasional backwards step.)


dave


Dave


If you don't have to take a step backwards once in a while your not heading forward in a new direction.  In my working days it was amazing how many people had 6 months experience 60 times. I learned something today - my modeling is getting better.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Opa George

Quote from: S&S RR on January 10, 2019, 03:52:10 PM
If you don't have to take a step backwards once in a while you're not heading forward in a new direction.  In my working days it was amazing how many people had 6 months experience 60 times. I learned something today - my modeling is getting better.

This is a quote worth framing and putting on my workshop wall.
Admirable tenacity and as a result--beautiful work.
--George

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