Kit Bashing Jason Jensen's Kit Bash of 3 KC's Workshop Kits.

[PRR Modeler]

Good for you Tom.

[S&S RR]

Tom


The build is going great and we all need a day off once and awhile.  Even if we are spending our days building a model railroad empire. I hope you come back from your little break inspired.

[NKP768]

I get so many tips from your posts Tom - great looking build . Enjoy the well deserved  time off.
Doug

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Tom.

Just catching up after the death of my hard drive and a few days off line.  I'd like to see you balance a tube of liquid that size on a real porch 2 by 4 railing!  Somehow I don't think it would stand the weight!  Re the stringer cutting - I use a Campbell plastic one as a template for cutting out timber ones.  I just tape the two together at one edge.

Nail holes - its been my experience when building and renovating that these are hidden by the build process whenever possible to cut down on work (filling) and fixing.  So generally nail holes running up the side of windows and doors run up the opening studs, and then the window and door facings are nailed in place over the top of these nails.  Likewise on the corners.  The 6 by 6's we put up the corner in the modeling world actually represent 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with the weatherboard profile cut out the back of the last couple of inches.  Again, these are put on after the weatherboards, and so there are generally no nails visible there as they are hidden under the facings.  In modern building the practice is simpler, but similar.  6 by 1's are used and just nailed straight over the weatherboards and scribers are cut from 1/2 by 3" timber (or something similar) and nailed against the 6 by 1's to keep the weather out.

I went looking online and found this excellent site copied below.  I found sketches about what I'm talking about under 'wall cladding - original details' and then clicked on 'more' when I got to the timber cladding part.  Anyway - a wealth of information here with all sorts of proper building practices along with historical information.  I have been thinking after you starting this thread - we should make a thread for links to correct prototype practices.  In that way we could all access information about areas we weren't sure about easily and quickly.

https://www.renovate.org.nz/villa/walls-and-cladding/wall-cladding-original-details/

Cheers, Mark.

[ACL1504]

I have a confession to make. I didn't work on the layout or this kit bash at all today.

I took the day off to catch up on my reading and even bought a new Clive Cussler book start.

Every so often I find I just need to take a break. Funny thing is it is never planned. I came out this morning, posted I was working on the layout. I sat at the workbench and said, "Nah, not today".

I should have a new update Sunday afternoon.

Tom

Clive Cussler -- I did a lot of his audio books long ago when I was doing some work that required a lot of windshield time. Good stuff. I find the Jonathan Kellerman books to be fun, too...especially the audio books performed by John Rubenstein.

Vince,

I've read all of Cussler's books and this one is the latest. I've also heard some of the audio books and like you say, they are good for traveling. I'll check on the Kellerman books. Rubenstein is a great one for the audio books.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Good for you Tom.

Thanks Curt, in fact, I took two full days off from the layout and kit building.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom


The build is going great and we all need a day off once and awhile.  Even if we are spending our days building a model railroad empire. I hope you come back from your little break inspired.

John,

Thanks, ever so often I just don't do anything in the train building. Today, I'm back at it.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I get so many tips from your posts Tom - great looking build . Enjoy the well deserved  time off.
Doug

Doug,

I'm happy you are getting some tips from the build threads. We are here to share ideas and I've picked up some great tips here as well.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask or email me. If I don't know, I'll get the answer.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Looking good, Tom.

Just catching up after the death of my hard drive and a few days off line.  I'd like to see you balance a tube of liquid that size on a real porch 2 by 4 railing!  Somehow I don't think it would stand the weight!  Re the stringer cutting - I use a Campbell plastic one as a template for cutting out timber ones.  I just tape the two together at one edge.

Nail holes - its been my experience when building and renovating that these are hidden by the build process whenever possible to cut down on work (filling) and fixing.  So generally nail holes running up the side of windows and doors run up the opening studs, and then the window and door facings are nailed in place over the top of these nails.  Likewise on the corners.  The 6 by 6's we put up the corner in the modeling world actually represent 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with the weatherboard profile cut out the back of the last couple of inches.  Again, these are put on after the weatherboards, and so there are generally no nails visible there as they are hidden under the facings.  In modern building the practice is simpler, but similar.  6 by 1's are used and just nailed straight over the weatherboards and scribers are cut from 1/2 by 3" timber (or something similar) and nailed against the 6 by 1's to keep the weather out.

I went looking online and found this excellent site copied below.  I found sketches about what I'm talking about under 'wall cladding - original details' and then clicked on 'more' when I got to the timber cladding part.  Anyway - a wealth of information here with all sorts of proper building practices along with historical information.  I have been thinking after you starting this thread - we should make a thread for links to correct prototype practices.  In that way we could all access information about areas we weren't sure about easily and quickly.

https://www.renovate.org.nz/villa/walls-and-cladding/wall-cladding-original-details/

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Thank you for the thumbs up on the build. Also, glad you are up and running once again.

I have to agree with everything you've said above. I think the "Father of Nail Holes" is George Sellios, not sure. From time to time on this forum and the other one, we've had discussions about nail holes. I think I just got in the habit of adding them. I have several older structures I've done over the years with no nail holes. On a model only a few randomly spaced nail holes should be seen if you are modeling an older wood structure.

For this build, I'm guilty of implausible construction. If this structure actually had this many nail holes showing, it would be near ruin and uninhabitable.

On actual wood sided building, the siding and corner trim wouldn't be flush as we see on our models. The siding would be at 90 degrees to each other and covered with the desired 1X's for trim.

For a trim of 1X4 on one corner, the other corner board would actually be a 1X3 butted against the inside of the opposing 1X4, thus you have a 1X4 corner trim on both corners.

I've seen many different types of corner trim depending on the contractor builder and desired look. They range form 1X4 up to 1X8 or even 1X10.

I've saved the link you listed for future reference. I agree, I'll put his in a thread.

I certainly appreciate the input, much appreciated.

Tom

[GPdemayo]

Won't jump in on the nail hole discussion.....in the real world, I used to use 2x lumber for the corner, window and door trim when I designed a structure with lap siding. It gave a bit more dramatic look than 1x trim. Just a thought.....

[ACL1504]

Won't jump in on the nail hole discussion.....in the real world, I used to use 2x lumber for the corner, window and door trim when I designed a structure with lap siding. It gave a bit more dramatic look than 1x trim. Just a thought.....

Greg,

Thanks for the input and feel free to add your thoughts to the prototype building link thread.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I eased back into the kit bash this afternoon. I need to get these stairs finished for those that are vertically challenged like Jim Miller.

I started with the stair landing and some support posts.



Not to much to explain here as it is all much the same as the other stair case.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Hand rails and side rails added.



I added a few signs to the front. Notice I had to cut the Lubrication Service sign to get it to fit.



The signs on the right are newer and will be just slightly weathered.

[jrmueller]

Tom. Looks great. Jim

[Janbouli]

The staircase is looking great Tom and nice choice of signs.