Magnuson Union Ave Freight Terminal - 2019 Tom Schwarz Build Challenge

[Oldguy]

I guess there was a reason for the kit to hit the floor as it sure made adding the window mullions a heck of a lot easier.  I did do a quick A&I was followed by a wipe of white.  These pieces are tiny.  I have had splinters bigger than these suckers.  First off, I needed a quick way to keep the mullions horizontal and vertical.  Taped a straight edge to the mat, and eye balled where the center line fell.  I found cutting the mullions using a flush cut sprue cutter worked the best.  Again a quick eye-ball cut and sanding did the trick.  Some WeldBond applied with a pointy tool seems to keep everything in place.  I found one horizontal piece followed by two vertical pieces worked the best to keep every thing from moving.
The UPS guy delivered my Mt Albert wood order.  Seven days from placing my order to delivery.  Not too shabby.  And oh, you can save a lot by ordering strip wood in bulk.

[Lynnb]

Looking good, nice brickwork.

[PRR Modeler]

They look great in place, but they look like a real pain to do.

[Slim Jerkins]

This was my first kit that I made when I started to get into lighting. I remember having to use rectangular brass tubing epoxied to the inside of the walls to get and keep them straight. I made the clerestory out of Tichy windows because the big lump of clear resin that they used in the kit was getting a bit yellow.


Looking good Bob!




-slim

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Windows look good, as do the walls.

[Oldguy]

Bob,


Windows look good, as do the walls.

Thanks.  Sometimes bad decisions have unexpected good outcomes, if one recognizes the error and make decent corrections.

[Oldguy]

Finally managed to get the four walls back together.  Once all that had dried, it was about getting the frieze boards on and waiting for glue to dry.  I had to realize that my idea of replacing the cardboard roof with plastic just wasn't going to work out.  So, Got the cardboard pieces, cut out the roofing template and get it glued on.  More waiting for glue to dry.  Then it a matter of making sure the roof cards were square and trim it.  But then on the template were the lines for the rafters that go underneath the cards.  Soooo, break out the drafting triangles.  I used a piece of 8x16 as a guide for spacing and drew the new locating lines.  Next up was my first use of transfer tape and installing the rolled roofing.  Included with the kit was a piece of 220 grit aluminum oxide sand paper for the roofing.    I must say, I really like the look of this stuff.  Anyway, rolled roofing comes in 3 wide rolls 33 feet long.  So first step is to cut the strips into 3 foot widths and then into 33 foot long pieces.  According to standard practice, the end of each strip should be facing down wind.  In my neck of the woods, the prevailing wind is from the NW, so considering the orientation of the building, it was laid down accordingly.  Strangely enough, the material went right up to the roof peak.  I have yet to add the roof cap material and the roof is just sitting loose on the building.  Finishing the roof and it supports is a bit complicated.  Glue the roof on, add the rafters on the dray side, mount he track side loading dock, build the supports, cut the rafters for that side, then glue down the track side roof.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice modeling Bob.

[Oldguy]

With the dray side roof glued on I can move on to adding the rafters.  Cutting the building side rafter ends was fairly easy: 60 degrees.  But trying to figure out how long was another matter.  I thought I had it figured out and set up a stop on the chopper.  Only 30 of them buggers.  Well, as it turns out, I was wrong.  In my haste to get the roof finished and installed, I cut off too much of the overhang and if I wanted to install the gutter, well there was way too much overhang.  Soooo, I need to trim all the rafter tails.  I made up a parallel jig to allow me to trim off just enough to install some fascia and then install the gutter so that it would look like it would actually catch water.

[Oldguy]

Now that the dray side rafters have dried over night, it was time to make and ad the roof supports.  Th instructions have you use some scrap 2x8 material and fabricate some supports out of scrap 8x8.  This seemed to be a bit off over kill, but I found that I didn't have any wood 4x4 material, so I'll go with the the kit instructions.  I added a 2x12 to the rafters to give something for the supports to support.  Now I get to turn my attention to the rail side roof.  The instructions have the roof supports place in between ti dock supports.  Not good building practice.  So I moved them to be above the 4x4 dock supports.  So I used my faithful triangle and the stop from the chopper to get everything aligned.  The instructions have you support the roof card by, again, adding a 2x12 on top of the supports and then add rafter tails for looks.  Nope.  I formed a lap joint between the support uprights and the 2x12 which is oriented vertically.  This required the angled support pieces to have a lap joints as well.  I forgot the camera and didn't photos of this process.  After everything had dried, I found the support assembly was way too flimsy, so I added a 2x10 which made it far stronger.  I'll trim any excess later.

[Oldguy]

Now that the set up work has been one on the track side roof, I can finally glue (I used Weldbond glue) that section of the roof on.  I just added weights on the inside and let gravity keep it in place.  I did a quick install to check on heights and eyeballed the angle needed for the roof rafters.  I let the ends run wild and used flush cut sprue cutters, and using the first cut piece as a guide, made the same angle cut for the remaining 29 rafters.  Those are now glued on and drying.
Up next gluing the track side platform to the building and installing the track side roof supports.

[Janbouli]

Great progress Bob , and thanks for the idea of using the magnet tray differently.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice Bob.

[Oldguy]

Managed to get some more work done.  First up was gluing the L-shaped loading docks to the building.  Again, the squaring jig came in handy to keep everything tight during drying.  Then it was installing the rail side supports.  One of my past customers was a granite cutting and finishing company.  One of the by-products was a lot of polished granite scraps.  I managed to secure a bunch of real nice rectangular pieces, strips, sample discs, and some generally busted up pieces that can be used in a lot of different scenarios. Below, I used on of the strip pieces to weigh down the dock section and guide the dock roof supports to be not only vertical but also in alignment.  Next up was readying the dray side dock for attachment.  But one has to allow for the downspout to go be installed next to the building.  So two notches need to be made.  Out came the micro saw and a mini-chisel.  Made short work in such a delicate area.  Then it was on to cutting off the extra rafter tails in the track side roof.  Finally came up with a 6" ruler (Frisco) and a scrap piece of 2x12 to give the sprue cutter a flat and even surface to do its job.

And after this build, I really, really need to clean-up and better organize my work space.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Looks better every time I check the thread.  Really enjoying following along.