Shadowlands and Tellynott

Started by Mark Dalrymple, July 04, 2019, 05:24:25 PM

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Mark Dalrymple

QuoteYou attention to detail in drawing up the plans is incredible.  The finished product is going to be awesome. 

Thanks so much, Jeff.

I just spent the weekend with the possums modelling group down in Timaru and have come back nicely motivated.  All I need now is some spare time...

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

Hi guys.

Time for an update.  I'll get a bit more uploaded over lunch.  Firstly is my walkover between the main mill and the shipping/ storage building.  I chose to do an open walkover.  A lot more work but I think it will add a lot to the scene.  I also decided to raise the centre of the walkover to clear my locos.  Straight, the walkover would clear wagons - which would have been fine, but it just looked a little low to my eye.  I used steel girders to make up the base framing as I didn't want to add support posts on the loading dock by the main mill.

Photo 1 - shows the steel framework with joists in position and some decking on,

Photo 2 - shows my framing being assembled on painters tape, sticky side out.

Photo 3 - The first open framed wall being test fitted.  I cut out access for the posts in the decking, and so careful measuring was necessary to get things to fit correctly.

Photo 4 - Here is the completed walkover with the black card roof glued in place.  I think I will roof this aerial walkover in rolled roofing.  Unlike most kits I've used almost no rolled roofing in this complex.

Photo 5 - a side view.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

...Part 2

OK - on to some roofing.

Photo 1 - So I made a styrene sub roof for the little tool shed to add some guts to the roof and glued that in position.  I then added the black card roof.  I'd marked straight lines across the roof for placement of the shingles first.  Once this was glued in place I made up the tiny dormers.  I elected to add three.  I then added the double sided tape.  I always make sure that the tape spans across the ridgeline to the other side.  This gives my styrene rod which is part of the ridge capping something to adhere to.

Photo 2 - Campbells corrugated iron was added piece by piece, cutting to fit as necessary.  I added my lead headed nails as per usual.  I made up flashings out of tin foil and double sided tape and added these to the sides of the dormers.  Ridge capping was made up in the same way and a length of styrene rod attached down the centre.  Next will be to add the fly rafters and rafter ends.  Also there is a porch to build and attach.

Photo 3 - Here I am roofing the annex.  You can see I have roofed the lower story.  I added a flashing out of some brown paper, but later removed this as I thought it looked better without it.

Photo 4 - A close up as I shingle the roof.  You can see the bead of canopy glue I have run along the the top of the last row of shingles.  I use the double sided tape to initially position the shingles, pressing the string into position every inch or so, but the addition of the glue holds the shinglerows to each other better.

Photo 5 - The shingles have been painted with a diluted blackish brown.

Photo 6 - Once dry a series of dry brushes in paynes grey, tans, light browns and off whites finish things off.  This is a method I learnt from Troels Kirk.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

...Part 3

Photo 1 - A quick pic of the colours I used for the shingles.

Photo 2 - I found this stack in Oamaru a couple of weekends ago when we were there for dog shows.  Brick on the top section, block/ stone on the lower section.  It also has angle iron running up the top edges of the stack and bands every few feet.  Pretty cool and unusual and a must scratchbuilt for Tellynott!

Photo 3 - And this cool little engine shed down by the quay.  Very humble and would suit my little logging/ mining town very well.

More soon, cheers, Mark.


I love how you did the top of the corrugated roof Mark using tinfoil.
I love photo's, don't we all.


Nice work on the roofing.  I picked up an idea to try so thanks for that too.  That's an interesting structure you're modeling.  The photos of the stack and structure are great too!
Bob Butts

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.


Nice bunch of photos, Mark, including the engine shed.  Looking forward to seeing how you use those paints on the shingles.  Any particular brush you use?

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteI love how you did the top of the corrugated roof Mark using tinfoil.

Thanks, Janbouli.

Its a bit fiddly, but not too bad - and well worth the effort.  Its important to leave the corrugated sheets down just a little from the ridge line so that you have some double sided tape there to stick the styrene rod to.  Give it a try...

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteNice work on the roofing.  I picked up an idea to try so thanks for that too.  That's an interesting structure you're modeling.  The photos of the stack and structure are great too!

Thanks, Bob.

No problems.  I am really not a fan of white glue and black paint used for a flashing.  It just seems such a crude method to use on an otherwise beautifully built model.  Flashings and ridge cappings take some time and effort - but I think make a big difference.  I have documented my construction of ridge cappings and hips in more depth earlier in this thread.  Let me know if you need me to find a page reference.  Its a great complex and I'm really enjoying myself.  I saw someone buy the kit in O scale recently on facebook and do a box opening video.  Very interesting to see.  I feel like a few of my smaller structures - the repair shed and pump house - are considerably smaller than those in the kit.  Having said that - they wouldn't have fitted my site without a reduction in size.  That is the reason the repair shed has only three dormers rather than four.

Yes - I could have spent days looking around Oamaru.  Not many places in the world where a man riding a penny farthing passes by while you are dining in a Thai restaurant!  There are some beautiful buildings clad in ornate Oamaru stone.  Its a beautiful product.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteNice bunch of photos, Mark, including the engine shed.  Looking forward to seeing how you use those paints on the shingles.  Any particular brush you use?

Thanks, Dave.

I hate to disappoint, but the photo previous to that of all my paints shows what the roof looks like after dry brushing.

Nothing special with the paint brushes.  With the diluted blackish brown you need to get some paint under any shingles that are sticking up - so soft and flexible.  Likewise something soft for the dry brushing - but lots of passes slowly building up the colours.

Yep - that engine shed is a goodie.  I also have a book - 'logging railroads of Skagit county' which has a picture of the coolest little engine shelter.  Its a tough competition!

Cheers, Mark.

Cheers, Mark.


Tinfoil on the cap.  I'm stealing that idea.   8)



Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 15, 2024, 02:09:05 PMTinfoil on the cap.  I'm stealing that idea.  8)

It keeps the aliens out, too :-) 

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to



That's quite an update.  Ever since you explained how you do the metal ridge peak flashing I have been impressed with how realistic it looks.  Taking the time to do it in a way that duplicated the prototype makes such a difference in the impact of your modeling.  I really like how the shingled roof came out.  I've never been quite satisfied with how my roofs with the Campbell shingles look, I'll have to try your method. 

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteTinfoil on the cap.  I'm stealing that idea.   8)

Thanks, Jeff.

Don't forget the rod.

Cheers, Mark.

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