KC's Workshop Steelton Feed and Seed

Started by nycjeff, October 20, 2020, 01:22:32 PM

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PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Jerry

Really like the colors.  A nice job you doing on this one.


Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

nycjeff

Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 23, 2020, 08:37:09 PM
Great progress.

Quote from: Jerry on October 24, 2020, 08:58:39 AM
Really like the colors.  A nice job you doing on this one.


Jerry

Thank you Curt and Jerry for looking in. I'm having a good time with this kit, it's presenting some challenges but overall I'm happy with the way things are going. Continuing on...



After drawing lines where the paper cut-out was taped onto the gable end, I glued some 1/8 inch stripwood to provide a glueing surface for the roof card. I also installed a 1/4 by 1/4 piece at the peak. This serves two purposes- it gives the building added stability and also provides more glueing surface for the roof cards. As you can see I also placed a similar board across the higher roof peak line



Next I turned my attention to the foundation. I glued a 1/8 by 1/4 piece of stripwood to the back of the foundation pieces provided with the kit. This doubles the width of the foundation and also gives twice the glueing surface.



Next I added 1/8 square wood around the base perimeter wherever possible to match the width of the foundation pieces. I did this because I thought that just glueing the thin foundation pieces to the bottom of the thin walls would not be as solid.



The foundation has been glued to the bottom of the walls.



A look at the building with the foundation. I've started adding some weathering chalks to the walls and you can see the large open space on the rear wall. This is where I will add the two outdoor storage docks with a truck space in the middle.



Jumping ahead a little, this is one of the outdoor storage docks. I will have more pictures showing how I built these docks in my next post. I will say that the deck templates provided with the kit are very useful and make constructing the docks relatively painless. That's it for now, more later.

Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

nycjeff



Using the deck template provided in the kit, I laid out the base of my outdoor storage deck  and began glueing the deck boards



When laying out the deck base I used 1/16 square stripwood in place of the 2x6's in certain spaces to provide a wider glueing surface for the deck board joints.



After the deck was complete, I began the posts and beams. I used 1/16 square stripwood and followed the drawing that I had prepared. I made four of these. Where the posts and beams met I glued in 45 degree cross braces where appropriate. To keep things square and level, I used the lines on my cutting mat and a paint bottle to keep things level vertically.



I continued on with the posts and beams and the cross braces. You can also see the front loading dock here, I will show more detail on how I built this dock later.



Here I've glued the two decks together. Across the bottom back I used a piece of 1/16 x 1/4 inch balsa wood to form a safety barrier. I also added two safety signs. Beams across the top at the front and back as well as one halfway up the back all provided stability to this sub-assembly. I added cross braces wherever I thought necessary.



I cut a piece of cardboard for the shed roof and used paper painted with rattle can camo green for the rolled roofing material. I started weathering the roof with pastel chalks and also added a sign that came with the kit over the truck bay. I used a piece of thin styrene for the sign backing which I painted with the dark chocolate trim color. I'm happy with the way this outdoor storage deck area came out. I prefer this to an enclosed addition to the back of the building- it's more interesting and will give me a chance to show more exterior details. That's it for now, more later.
Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

jerryrbeach

Jeff,


Just getting caught up on this thread.  Thanks for the clear explanations and photos of what you are doing. Sign me up as one that likes your color choice, as well as the two toned walls.  I often struggle to find colors that compliment my structures, yours clearly do that.


FWIW, I was watching a Bar Mills video a couple days ago where Art Fahey mentioned that larger wall sections need lots of bracing as the larger wall sections are more prone to warping when treated with an A/I solution. 
Jerry

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

nycjeff

Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 26, 2020, 04:22:55 PM
Jeff,


Just getting caught up on this thread.  Thanks for the clear explanations and photos of what you are doing. Sign me up as one that likes your color choice, as well as the two toned walls.  I often struggle to find colors that compliment my structures, yours clearly do that.


FWIW, I was watching a Bar Mills video a couple days ago where Art Fahey mentioned that larger wall sections need lots of bracing as the larger wall sections are more prone to warping when treated with an A/I solution. 

Thank you Jerry, I'm just trying my best to live up to some of the great build threads on this forum. I have learned many things in my relatively short time here. I have to admit that I consult my lovely bride for color choices. She has a good eye for that type of thing. On my next large wood structure I will definitely use more bracing. Thanks for the info.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 26, 2020, 04:29:24 PM






Great modeling Jeff.

Thank you Curt, I'm having a good time with this build. Continuing on...



The enclosed stairway was next. First I braced the wall pieces and then glued them together. I also added some corner trim pieces. I noticed that the bottom of the assembly was wide open, so I cut some pieces from the leftover wood wall  laser cut sheets, added some bracing and glued these in as well. It looks much better this way.



Next I cut some cardboard for the roof. First I scored the cardboard with my exacto knife, folded it along the scored lines and then glued it to the wall assembly.



Next I glued on some roll-roofing strips. I just painted some paper with rattle can camo green and then cut it into 3/8 inch wide strips and glued them on. I will add some weathering chalks later.



Next I added some trim pieces along the bottom of the roof and also added a sign. That does it for the stairway for now.



Here is the assembled wood base for the front loading dock. Again I used 1/8 x 1/8 pieces along with the 2x6 floor braces to give me a wider glueing surface for the individual deck boards.



I've finished the front loading dock deck boards and started weathering them with chalks after staining them with my AI solution. You can also see the large wall vent that comes with the kit. It comes as one flat piece. I cut the sides out and then assembled them on a 1/4 x 1/4 piece of stripwood. I had to do a little trimming to make everything fit, but I am pleased with the result. You can also see the rear safety barrier for my outdoor storage decks with the signs attached. That's it for now, more later

Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Oldguy

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

WigWag Workshop

This is great build thread, I'm going to order this kit soon.


-Steven
A BIG Thanks to all the folks who share their knowledge, and for giving me the inspiration to push the limits in this great hobby!

nycjeff

Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 26, 2020, 07:27:14 PM
Nice job on the stairwell.

Hello Curt, the stairwell was one of the things that was not addressed very much in the instructions. As I said before, experience with previous wood kits is a must to obtain a good result with this one. I was pleased with how the stairwell came out, thanks for the compliment.

Quote from: Oldguy on October 26, 2020, 09:28:05 PM
Coming together nicely.

Thanks Bob, I'm glad you like it.

Quote from: WigWag Workshop on October 27, 2020, 08:13:00 AM
This is great build thread, I'm going to order this kit soon.


-Steven

Thanks for looking in Steven, I definitely recommend this kit. I think it would be a nice addition to anyone's layout. Continuing on...



My little people had to have a way to get from the main building to the outdoor storage decks so I made them some doors. These doors are part of the add-on structure I built for the rear wall of the kit. You can also see some of the 2x4 stripwood trim that I painted with my dark chocolate trim color. I like to dress up the area where my two wall colors meet.



Finishing up the large wall vent- I painted it with a craft color copper and then weathered it with green pastel chalk. More information about the paint and chalk will come below. Sorry about the fuzzy picture, I tried several times and this was the best I could get. I then attached 2x4 stripwood, also painted with the copper color to the vent as support bands. The wall standoffs were painted black.



I started on the standing seam metal roof by glueing 2x4 stripwood as the seams onto the roof cards. You can also see the framework for the front loading dock canopy. The templates provided with the kit really came in handy.



All four roof cards now have the standing seams installed and are ready for painting.



I painted the roof cards with rattle can flat red primer and when dry , I dry brushed them with  the craft paint copper. I really wanted to use the method Tom (ACL1504) used on his riverbend chapel build thread, but I just couldn't get a satisfactory result. His method of brushing chalk onto a tacky paint surface worked well for him, but I just ended up with an unsightly mess.



This is the copper paint that I've been talking about. I got it at Michael's. It takes two coats for a nice flat surface, but I like it. That's it for now, more later.
Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

nycjeff

Continuing on...



The top roof card is painted and dry brushed and the bottom has been weathered with the green chalk. I think that the picture explains how I did this. I am very pleased with the result, I think it gives the weathered copper patina look that I was looking for.



Included with the kit was a large wood laser cut stencil FEED sign. I thought that it would look good on the roof of my scratchbuilt rear outdoor storage decks. To start the wood framework for the sign I drew the roof angle on a piece of paper and used it to give me the angle pieces for the frame. I used 1/16 square stripwood for this.



Using the paper template, I glued the frame together.



Both end's angle pieces have been added and also a piece across the rear bottom for stability. Using the template like this it is easy to get the sign framework to lay flat on the roof and also for the sign to stand up straight on an angled roof.



The framework has been painted with my dark chocolate trim color and the sign, which was painted with craft paint french wine color, has been glued on.



The sign has been glued onto the roof of the outdoor storage decks and I added two light fixtures. The fixtures are not working light fixtures, I have not reached that level of modeling yet, even though Reading Bob and ACL 1504 make it look so easy. I know that it is not. I also added some detail castings to my deck areas. That's it for now. more later
Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

jerryrbeach

Jeff,


Interesting approach to the copper roofing and a great result.
Jerry

nycjeff

Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 29, 2020, 07:41:09 AM
Jeff,


Interesting approach to the copper roofing and a great result.

Hello Jerry, thanks for the good thoughts. I was pleased with the result. I watched several videos and also Tom's (ACL1504) chapel build thread and ended up combining several different methods to get where I ended up. Continuing on...



I finally got a decent picture of my large wall vent, it to was painted with the copper paint and then weathered with the green pastel chalk. The bands were not easy, but came out well.



This is my front loading dock. I used individual boards which is always worth the effort. Weathering chalks on top of AI solution gave me a finish I was happy with.



The roof cards have been glued on and I'm very happy with the way the roof color matches the wall colors. You can also see the front loading dock canopy and the wood stencil sign. The canopy roof is camo green rolled roofing strips with some weathering chalks. The canopy support wires went in pretty easily. I used my pin vise drill to put small holes in the roof and then bent a short 90 in the brass wire. I put some super glue on the ends of the wire, inserted the bent end into the hole in the roof and leaned the other end against the wood wall. I painted the sign with craft paint french wine color, glued the sign to a piece of 1/16 square stripwood painted with the wall color and glued the whole thing to the wall. This is a very eye catching feature of the kit and I was pleased with how it came out.



Another roof view and also a view of the left side addition.



Rear view of the roof. You can see the holes in the roof for the large smoke stacks to come.



Per the instructions I used 1/16 square stripwood for the ridge cap. I painted  and weathered them the same way as the roof cards. That's it for now, more later

Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

nycjeff

Continuing on...



The roof gable end fascia boards and the rafter tails were next. This is perhaps the least glamorous part of the build, but one that is worth the effort.  First I cut some 2x8 stripwood to get ready for painting



I painted the 2x8 with my dark chocolate trim color



Next I used my chopper to cut the rafter tail pieces. I always cut the pieces long and then trim them flush after the glue drys. This leaves a raw wood end, but it is easy to paint them later.



The rafter tails were glued on. This is a tedious process but well worth the effort in the end result.



A look at the rafter tails. I like it. That's it for now more later

Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

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