The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 4

[deemery]

Tom, for cutting large numbers of acetate windows to the same size, I create a grid of the window boxes in a drawing program.  (i've actually used PowerPoint for this, draw a rectangle, go to Object Properties, and manually set the size length/width to the necessary dimensions.)  Then I print the template out.

Then I tape a piece of acetate down on the top of the paper template, running masking tape along the top and bottom.  I scribe the vertical lines for the windows.  Then I add masking tape along each row, scribing the row underneath.  Finally, I peal off each window from the masking tape strips that are by now cut apart.  

But if I only have a few windows to do, I use your technique with the squares on the cutting pad.

dave

[Rick]

Tom, nice work from top to bottom.

[nycjeff]

Hello Tom, your cabooses, cabeese ?, are looking good. They will look great trailing a train on your layout.

[Larry C]

Tom coming along nicely and will look great on your layout.

[Jerry]

Tom great work as usual.  And a great tutorial on how you did it.  Thanks.

Jerry

[ACL1504]

Tom, for cutting large numbers of acetate windows to the same size, I create a grid of the window boxes in a drawing program.  (i've actually used PowerPoint for this, draw a rectangle, go to Object Properties, and manually set the size length/width to the necessary dimensions.)  Then I print the template out.

Then I tape a piece of acetate down on the top of the paper template, running masking tape along the top and bottom.  I scribe the vertical lines for the windows.  Then I add masking tape along each row, scribing the row underneath.  Finally, I peal off each window from the masking tape strips that are by now cut apart. 

But if I only have a few windows to do, I use your technique with the squares on the cutting pad.

dave

Dave,

Great way to cut them all the same size. However, it seems like some extra work involved.

Mine were all cut and installed in less than 15 minutes for the two cabooses.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom, nice work from top to bottom.

Rick,

From the the top to bottom, I'm grateful for your following. 


Tom

[ACL1504]

Hello Tom, your cabooses, cabeese ?, are looking good. They will look great trailing a train on your layout.

Jeff,

Thanks very much. These will probably be the last ones I do. For a while anyway. I think I still have a few unlit ones.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom coming along nicely and will look great on your layout.

Larry,

Thank you for the kind compliment. Much appreciated for sure.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom great work as usual.  And a great tutorial on how you did it.  Thanks.

Jerry

Jerry,

I enjoy sharing how and why I do something on the layout. Thank you my friend.

Tom

[ACL1504]

After the window glass was installed, I sprayed a light coat of Flat on the two cabooses. This dulled the glass to a cloudy look. I didn't install interior caboose lights and this will also prevent the marker wires from showing through the windows.

[ACL1504]

The light bring these two to life.



They are now on the caboose ready track.



Back in a few, it is Diet Pepsi time.

[ACL1504]

Installing Tomar marker lights aren't limited to brass models.

Here is a wood caboose I built and decaled for the Savannah & Atlanta. The S&A caboose is an American Models Builders kit.




I also installed markers in a plastic East Coast Railroads caboose kit.

[ACL1504]

I also installed Tomar markers on a brass loco. The loco is a Key Import USRA Mountain, 4-8-2. I painted this many many years ago.

[ACL1504]

While I was at it, I removed the brass Cal-Scale smoke box markers and added Tomar markers.

The light shinning on the front of the smoke box is due to the white marker lens falling out. I'll need to fix this but you can see the Tomar markers can be used on many different models.





Done with this portion of the thread. I have a new project I'll add tomorrow afternoon.

Done for today.