Winter Challenge 2024 - Flat Iron Corner Building - Tom Langford.

[ACL1504]

I pealed the paper off the back of the tape and carefully laid the Dura-Lar on the tape.



I laid a piece of paper over the front wall to keep my finger prints off the window material as I trimmed off the excess.

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The ten upper windows will have stained glass installed. I used the same method to add the stained glass. Refer to the two photos below.

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In the next photo you can see the Dura-Lar glass in the lower windows and the tape over the top windows.



A friend from Disney World gave me a sample of light filters they use at Disney to highlight certain scenes. This little pack hold 129 different color samples. I've had this pack of color filters for the past 45 years. This is what I use for stained glass.

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When the paper is removed from the tape, you can see that it is opaque. The color filters are clear. I didn't want to be able to see through the stained glass so I left the tape over the window openings.

I cut small squares of green, yellow, red and blue filters and pressed them to the back side of the tape.

In the next photo you can clearly see that you can't clearly see through the stained glass,



Back in a few. This calls for a Diet Pepsi break. 

[ACL1504]

I glued the five corbel columns to the front. I cut the top board from scrap lumber from my scrap wood box. The strip wood measures 3/32" in thickness. I painted it with Floquil Brunswick Green and when dry, glued the board to the top of the corbel columns.



The storefront is basically finished with the exception of some weathering and the addition of door knobs.




I'll be working on the structure walls for the next few days so it may be several days prior to the next update.

Thanks to all who are following and as always comments are requested. I'm not offended by constructive criticism. 

[restocarp]

I think it looks awesome, Tom! I really like the colored glass detail.

I would recommend adding additional stripwood details. Window sills. Stiles, rails and raised panels to the broad space below the windows. An astragal dividing the door leaves. Defining the door jambs with a little strip that will separate the doors from the side lights. Once these little strips are added and then hit with a weathering drybrush, they will really pop and give the storefront even more detail. It's certainly not necessary, but a relatively easy step that will take this up to 11.

Matt

[jerryrbeach]

Tom,

I like what you did with the storefront.  I'll be interested to see if you add the details Matt suggests...

[Jim Donovan]

A lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The?  Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.

Love the progress, thanks for sharing.

Jim

[ACL1504]

I think it looks awesome, Tom! I really like the colored glass detail.

I would recommend adding additional stripwood details. Window sills. Stiles, rails and raised panels to the broad space below the windows. An astragal dividing the door leaves. Defining the door jambs with a little strip that will separate the doors from the side lights. Once these little strips are added and then hit with a weathering drybrush, they will really pop and give the storefront even more detail. It's certainly not necessary, but a relatively easy step that will take this up to 11.

Matt

Matt,

Thanks very much for the suggestions. I do have astragal dividing on the doors but it is hard to see in the photos. I think the dark color hides it.

As far as the other changes, I'm working on them.

Again, thank you very much for the feedback.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,

I like what you did with the storefront.  I'll be interested to see if you add the details Matt suggests...

Jerry,

Thank you. I will be making some changes to the storefront.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

A lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The?  Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.

Love the progress, thanks for sharing.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for stopping by. I like the Mr. Hobby (gloss, matte and flat) coats. Honestly, Jim, if you think about it the Krylon may work but it isn't a hobby paint. I've used the Krylon primer but never the clear coat. Mr. Hobby is a hobby paint. I believe everything has scale. Mr. Hobby paint is fine and is perfect for modeling.

I like the Dura-Lar and have been using it for years. As stated, it is a great alternative to the acetate that comes in kits. As a scratch builder, I find that this is readily available.

Tom

[deemery]

A lot of great ideas packed in your explanation Tom. The?  Mr Hobby clear coat, which type do you like best? I have been using a Krylon Matt Clear but wondering if the flat would be even better. Concerning the Dura Lar, how do you like it compared to the normal acetate, it looks great from the photos.

Love the progress, thanks for sharing.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for stopping by. I like the Mr. Hobby (gloss, matte and flat) coats. Honestly, Jim, if you think about it the Krylon may work but it isn't a hobby paint. I've used the Krylon primer but never the clear coat. Mr. Hobby is a hobby paint. I believe everything has scale. Mr. Hobby paint is fine and is perfect for modeling.

I like the Dura-Lar and have been using it for years. As stated, it is a great alternative to the acetate that comes in kits. As a scratch builder, I find that this is readily available.

Tom

Tom, why do you like the Dura-Lar better than conventional acetate (or clear styrene)?  

Eventually, when I get around to the city part of my layout, I'll be needing a bunch of storefronts.  So I'm enjoying seeing your techniques.  

dave

[ACL1504]

Dave,

No special reason other than I can get 12, 9x12" sheets in a booklet for around $12.00 and it will last me a life time of modeling.

Dura-Lar is also acid free and has a high heat tolerance - not that I plan on burning it. 

I've had some Acetate windows in models discolor over the years and Dura-Lar doesn't.

Hope this helps.

Tom 

[nycjeff]

Hello Tom, I'm enjoying your build. I like the idea of file folder paper for the storefront layers. I always learn from your build threads.

[deemery]

Dave,

No special reason other than I can get 12, 9x12" sheets in a booklet for around $12.00 and it will last me a life time of modeling.

Dura-Lar is also acid free and has a high heat tolerance - not that I plan on burning it. 

I've had some Acetate windows in models discolor over the years and Dura-Lar doesn't.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Yes, thanks!!

dave