Winter Challenge 25-26 - Fiordland Lobster Company - Tellynott Depot

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Cutting in was done with my Da Vinci #4 long bristled brush.  As mentioned earlier, this brush holds a lot of paint but still gives a very fine tip.  I used the Tamiya XF-83 medium sea grey for the sills and window surrounds, opting to paint these first.  I thinned this paint with isopropyl alcohol, about two parts paint to one part alcohol.


Photo 2 - I followed up with the green for the windows (still to be weathered).  I used Model Color 70.970 deep green for this.  I thinned the paint 2:1 with water.  I still have some touch ups to do with the gray.


Photo 3 - Shows a view from further back.  I really like working with this brush when doing detail work such as this, and can't recommend it highly enough.  I would imagine you would need to shop at an art supply store to find one of these (I have to in NZ).  Weathering should tone the green back a notch!  It was pretty fiddly stuff, especially with the windows closest to the internal wall.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

Mark, this brush?  https://www.dickblick.com/items/da-vinci-maestro-2-hog-bristle-brush-filbert-long-handle-size-4/  

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

No, Dave.

Hopefully, this works.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00O2UX61E?ref_=mr_referred_us_au_nz&th=1

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice painting on the sills and frames Mark.

[deemery]

No, Dave.

Hopefully, this works.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00O2UX61E?ref_=mr_referred_us_au_nz&th=1

Thanks, that shows me what shape you mean.  Not sure I've seen that in bristle, I'll have to look for it.

dave

[elwoodblues]

Mark,

Just catching up on the build, the brickwork and windows look great.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Very nice painting on the sills and frames Mark.

Thanks very much, Curt.

I'm hoping to get the benchwork for this area done today, which will include making a diorama base.  It's quite a bit of work so we will see...

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Thanks, that shows me what shape you mean.  Not sure I've seen that in bristle, I'll have to look for it.

Hi Dave.

The bristles on this brush are 3/4" long at the tip.  I've done a lot of painting with it and it still holds a very good tip.  But best is how much painting you can do without reloading.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark,

Just catching up on the build, the brickwork and windows look great.

Thanks, Ron.

I quite enjoy cutting in a few windows.  30 was perhaps one or two too many...

Cheers, Mark.

[Larry C]

Mark great paint effect on the bricks. Are you cross-eyed yet from doing all those window? Lol.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark great paint effect on the bricks. Are you cross-eyed yet from doing all those window? Lol.

Thanks, Larry.

Not quite...

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - So progress on the challenge has gone on a necessary tangent.  This first photo shows a photo taken a year or so back.  It shows the 'sandwich' of polystyrene and ceiling tile top that I decided many years ago to use for my base in Tellynott.  This sandwich sits on top of a 16mm MDF base on L-girder framework and is some 4 1/2" thick.  During the process of installing point motors in the rest of my layout I decided to redo all this baseboard to allow installation of point motors on the underside of 16mm MDF trackbed.  In order to make a diorama base for this years challenge, it was really necessary to redo all the benchwork on this module - module #2a.


Photo 2 - My plan was to remove all areas of sandwiched material where track was to be laid and add rises to the original 16mm MDF and cut and add a new section of 16mm MDF on top.  Cubbyholes would be cut into the lower MDF to allow access to the bottom of the top piece of MDF for point motor installation.  This also means that motors can be swapped out if there are future problems.  I will add a section on this to my layout thread in the upcoming days, and so won't go into much detail here.  However, I cut a large piece of craft paper and then slowly marked and cut this to shape.  Two dioramas needed the track frontage cut off - a nerve racking job!  (This was not just to give access to the point motors, but also to swap the track from code 100 to code 75 and the turnouts from insulfrog to electrofrog.)  The paper template was then used to mark out the shape on the top piece of 16mm MDF.  I also drew the track plan onto the craft paper while pinned to the sandwich, and this was then transposed onto the MDF using a compass, nail and hammer.


Photo 3 - You can see here the cut line for the diorama base (back left of the top MDF - where the front section is sagging).  I still have a little way to go on this project, but will be back making progress on the diorama tomorrow.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

It sure looks like you have been busy Mark.

[Jerry]

Mark that is one great looking diorama.

Jerry

[deemery]

Mark gets more done in a week than I get done in a year!

dave