South River Modelworks 370 - Tucker and Cook Cotton Yarn Mil

[coors2u]

Looking great Jaime. Thanks for posting a thread.

[Janbouli]

How many windows , 80 you say 

Looking good Jaime.

[S&S RR]

Wow - Jaime, you are moving right along on this build - looking good!

[bparrish]

Jaime...

I've put this up in other places on this forum but I'll do it again.

Nothing looks like glass except glass.       So.......

Consider microscope slides.  They are available through Hobby town and other places, including camera shops that market microscopes.

Cut the glass with a machinist's scribe.  Available at Home Depot or other big box.

Use a straight edge and a single pass where you want the break to occur.

You can use whole slides or the smaller slide covers.  You can't tell the thickness of the glass once installed.

Don't use super glue as it makes a blue color that won't come off when it kicks.  Styrene glue or Goo.

Handle from the edges as finger marks are hard to get off but Kleenex works good.

Let me know how it goes.

see ya
Bob

[EricQuebec]

Jaime...

I've put this up in other places on this forum but I'll do it again.

Nothing looks like glass except glass.       So.......

Consider microscope slides.  They are available through Hobby town and other places, including camera shops that market microscopes.

Cut the glass with a machinist's scribe.  Available at Home Depot or other big box.

Use a straight edge and a single pass where you want the break to occur.

You can use whole slides or the smaller slide covers.  You can't tell the thickness of the glass once installed.

Don't use super glue as it makes a blue color that won't come off when it kicks.  Styrene glue or Goo.

Handle from the edges as finger marks are hard to get off but Kleenex works good.

Let me know how it goes.

see ya
Bob

Just a little precision about this god technic to do real glass (from my personnal experience) : don't forget to dip the machinist scribe in white spirit before pass it on the glass. the point does not to be wet , just moist, like a pencil for making drybrushing. ... 80 windows... that's a challenge
Eric Québec city

[ACL1504]

Jaime,

Nice start and very informative as well. Thanks.

Tom

[NEMMRRC]

I appreciate all the feedback so far.


I wanted to point out that when I did the nail markings I did not mark every board in a row of markings. I probably marked 3/5 to 2/3 of the boards. When finished the viewer will see most of the boards marked and the brain fills in the rest. After all, the model will not be seen up close. There only needs to be enough markings to suggest they are all there. Besides, this model may end in the farthest corner of my layout later in the future and all those details will likely get lost.


However, if you feel you need to mark every clapboard with a nail marking then that is ok.


Jaime

[nextceo]

Eric and Bob,

   I want to put in "real glass" on my next kit. Can you please confirm the following:

Machinists Scribe - See 1st Pic - Is that what it looks like?
http://www.amazon.com/PJT-Machinists-Scribe/dp/B00HE9OTHU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095428&sr=8-13&keywords=machinist+scribe

Microscope Slides - See 2nd Pic
http://www.amazon.com/Blank-Microscope-Slides-Square-Cover/dp/B002OS6D9I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095624&sr=8-1&keywords=microscope+slides

White Spirit - See 3rd Pic - Why White Spirit to wet the Machinist Scribe..and not Mineral Spirits or Rubbing Alcohol or even water?
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Artists-White-Spirits/dp/B00681M69I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095779&sr=8-1&keywords=white+spirit

Goo Glue or Styrene Glue - See 4th and 5th Pic - What is so special about this glue...why not Weldbond Blue which drys clear?

http://www.amazon.com/Walthers-904-299-Goo-Glue-Cement/dp/B002SZ88K4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095818&sr=8-2&keywords=goo+glue

http://www.micromark.com/same-stuff-professional-plastic-welder-refill-2-fl-oz,9002.html

Thanks!
Alan

[bparrish]

Alan..

Following your list......

#1  No
#2  Yes
#3  Yes
#4  Yes
#5  I have no idea what this is..........

Although your #1 is often called a machinist's scribe ..... What I am talking about is a pencil looking devise with a carbide tip, preferably at a very step angle, as in a very sharp pencil.

Try this link from Home Depot.......... I know that General tool company also makes one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Tungsten-Carbide-Tip-Scribe-KH537/202939731?MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2_rr-_-NA-_-202939731-_-N


see ya
Bob

[EricQuebec]

Hi ALan,
1.  Personnaly I've used a tool from my dentist, you can see pic on the thread.
2. microscope cover glass is what I've used.
3.  why white spirit rather than mineral spirit or alcool ? I don't know. The purpose is to make a clean cut when you broke the glass after pass the tool.
4 - 5  Personnaly i've used CA glue. I've make micro dot off glue apply with a clothes pin

Eric QUébec city

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

It's time to glue some walls together.

But, before I do that I need to get the building's foundation in place.

The kit includes a resin casting for the brick and stone foundation. It is a nice casting. I painted mine with red primer from a spray can.



Above I've placed an unpainted resin casting from the kit to show the difference between the painted foundation and an unpainted casting.

I glued all the walls together.



Next I painted the rock portion of the foundation with grey acrylic paint. I used grey pastel chalk to simulate the mortar for the brick portion of the foundation casting.

Using pastel chalks to simulate mortar is easy and goes fast. Basically you scrape some chalk dust from a pastel chalk stick and apply the dust to the casting. I used a damp finger to spread about the chalk dust into the mortar crevices.

I then glued the walls to the foundation casting.



Notice that in the photo above there is another casting on top of the walls. This is part of the architectural ornamentation on the building. That casting will get painted turquoise before it gets glued. For now the casting is just resting on the walls so I can dry fit it. I had to sand mine down just a tad. This is expected and the instructions suggest using a metal file for that task.

Perhaps you've already surmised that with a solid casting for the foundation and a solid casting for the ornamental trim one can no longer reach inside the building's walls. So I had to account for that before I proceeded.

Let's face it, the walls are not thick enough to provide sufficient surface area when gluing them to the foundation. So, I cheated and made some cleats that I attached to the walls and glued the cleats to the foundation with thick CA gel (super glue).

Here you can see how I used cleats to provide more surface area when gluing the walls to the foundation.






Please note that I went ahead and added a view block to my building by spray painting a piece of cardboard flat black from a cheap spray can. This step was not in the instructions.

By the way, the whole cleat thing was not in the instructions either. I stumbled upon the cleat cheat on my own.

Coming up - the mansard roof.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[gnatshop]

This build is looking great, and moving along fast!
You're almost to the point of tellin' Lisa the next kit that you want for Christmas.
I've already been notified that I ain't gettin' diddly until I get my butt back in the train room!! 

[NEMMRRC]

This build is looking great, and moving along fast!
You're almost to the point of tellin' Lisa the next kit that you want for Christmas.
I've already been notified that I ain't gettin' diddly until I get my butt back in the train room!! 

I spent about 30 hours on the kit during the Thanksgiving Holiday. I'm back to my regular pace now.


Jaime

[jrmueller]

Keep on truckin Jaime(David can probably find the image of that guy on the web but not me.). Jim

[Jerry]

Jaime just saw this thread don't know how I missed it.

Your doing a great job on this.  Walls windows great coloring.

Jerry