Many months ago Erieman, Frank Baker, purchased a brass loco from a dealer. The loco is an Erie S-4 class 2-8-4 Berkshire. This brass locomotive was imported by PFM/Pacific Fast Mail and built by Fujiyama (Japan) in 1966.
Fujiyama was a high quality builder in the 1960's. This loco was built in 1966 and only 445 of this model were built.
Here's the kicker. It sold for $55.00 in 1966. I was just out of high school and in my Freshman year of college and $55.00 could have been a thousand dollars as far as my budget was concerned.
In 1998 the secondary market listed the loco value at $440.00. Since then the brass market has gone up and down several times.
I told Frank I would make the necessary repairs, touch up the paint and add a few details to make this model a show piece for his Morristown and Erie Railroad.
Since I'm still in the recovery mode, now is a good time to sit at the workbench and help out a great friend.
Now you have all the superfluous minutiae necessary to follow along. 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141052.jpeg)
Continued after a nice cold Diet Pepsi.
When I got the loco I noticed a few issues immediately. As a brass guy, I can say that I spot things most people wouldn't. This only comes from experience and years of repairing brass.
I know Thom Driggers can back me up on this. Many of you know Thom as the guy who paints and repairs brass for Mr. George Sellios, Dick Elwell as well a many others.
Painting, repairing, and working on brass locos is a dying art, if not lost already. I know there are a few painters around but not of the quality of Thom or myself. And, I'm not even in Thom's league. He is many cuts above me in brass repairs, etc. I'm not bragging, I'm only stating a fact.
I'm certainly not wanting to give anyone the idea that I'm haughty, meaning arrogantly superior. I'm just trying to say you get what you pay for when owning brass and having a true craftsman do the work of repairs and painting.
Many skills are necessary to work and repair brass locos. The same knowledge of fixing a 1:1 loco is necessary to make the repairs of side rods, eccentric cranks, driver quartering, balancing and the list goes on and on.
A brass model steam loco operates in the same fashion as the real thing and has the same issues when not working properly. This is where you pay for the knowledge to make the necessary repairs.
I guess I'm only saying that one shouldn't get "sticker shock" when getting a quote from a brass guy for painting and or repairs. My dad used to tell me, "If you can't afford the repairs, don't buy the car. Or, if you have to ask, you can't afford it."
Repairing and painting brass can run into 40 to 80+ hours. Even at $20.00 per hour you can easily get a price of $1600.00. This doesn't even cover hard repairs like getting it to run like a Swiss watch.
Okay, I did get a little side tracked and now I'm off the horse.
On to the repairs in a few.
Cosmetically speaking the loco is in pretty good shape. There are many paint dings or chips if you will. The front pilot is broken and bent, the tender "Erie" decal is chipped at the top, there is paint over spray on the driver tires just to mention a few noticeable issues.
In the photo below, notice the shine on the boiler. This effect is created by rubbing or brushing powdered graphite on the boiler over the paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141106.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141106.jpeg)
This is a really great look to the boiler when done evenly. This graphite job is even but over done. Some of the graphite rubbing should have been applied to the side of the cab and tender. Notice the cab side is much cleaner than the boiler. The graphite was applied to the cab roof but not the sides.
More in a few.
Here is the tender side and offending decal herald.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141120.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141133.jpeg)
This will need to be repaired.
Continued later this afternoon.
I'm going to install DCC in this loco for Frank. I'll use a TCS WOW Series 4 DCC decoder and TCS 1.5 inch 8 ohm speaker in the tender. To get this one to run smoothly the old DC Pittman motor has to go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141618.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141618.jpeg)
I'm not charging Frank anything for this as we have other arrangements. However, I'll track this loco and price at $25.00 per hour, which by the way, is very conservative. This should give you an idea of how quickly the price adds up.
Most painters charge $45.00 per hour or a certain amount per paint job. This will give you an idea of what my time is worth in working with brass.
At this time, I have 3.5 hours in the loco. That's $87.50 and I've just got started.
More tomorrow afternoon.
This is going to be a very interesting thread Tom. I will be following along.
Looking forward to Tom working his magic on this old brass locomotive. Never tried to do this type of work, but had a friend in Chicago who was real good at repainting, detailing and adding new can motors, but not any DCC work. Will be in the classroom taking notes for this adventure.
Tommy
Quote from: S&S RR on February 12, 2017, 09:29:03 PM
This is going to be a very interesting thread Tom. I will be following along.
John,
Thanks for following along. I'm sure I turned off a few people with the first three posts but it is what it is as they say.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on February 13, 2017, 02:12:08 AM
Looking forward to Thom working his magic on this old brass locomotive. Never tried to do this type of work, but had a friend in Chicago who was real good at repainting, detailing and adding new can motors, but not any DCC work. Will be in the classroom taking notes for this adventure.
Tommy
Tommy,
Thom will be following along with TOM on this one. I will be discussing the DCC intall buy won't do a step by step here on the forum. There are plenty of YouTube videos on the subject.
I do appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
I'll be watching too..... :)
I've sat here for 5 minutes trying to come up with something pithy to say about brass guys, hourly charges or dying arts, but I got nuttin'. This is really embarrassing. :-[ :-[ :-[
Nothing pithy needed to be said!
I agree with Tom (ACL1504) repairing/rebuilding brass is a definite art form. I've watched 7 other builders whom I've learned and watched working with Dcc and brass retire. When Tom finishes this rebuild for Frank, I will know of only one other brass builder besides myself and he is way more expensive than me and I'm currently out of business due to life.
That all being said, good plastic steam builders are just as rare as brass ones. Tom I'll be watching this thread develop with interest. Frank is lucky to have a talented friend like you sir. You are a master builder and I'm proud to call you my friend. Now If I can get you to finish a few dozen on my brass steamers for me so I can retire! ha. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2017, 09:01:45 AM
I'll be watching too..... :)
I've sat here for 5 minutes trying to come up with something pithy to say about brass guys, hourly charges or dying arts, but I got nuttin'. This is really embarrassing. :-[ :-[ :-[
I am never embarrassed watching a Craftsman at work. I have seen, and been the recipient of, the Masters work.
Jim
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2017, 09:01:45 AM
I'll be watching too..... :)
I've sat here for 5 minutes trying to come up with something pithy to say about brass guys, hourly charges or dying arts, but I got nuttin'. This is really embarrassing. :-[ :-[ :-[
Greg,
That's okay, I'm not embarrassed to have you as a friend. :-[ :-[
Thanks for following along on this one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 13, 2017, 11:01:25 AM
Nothing pithy needed to be said!
I agree with Tom (ACL1504) repairing/rebuilding brass is a definite art form. I've watched 7 other builders whom I've learned and watched working with Dcc and brass retire. When Tom finishes this rebuild for Frank, I will know of only one other brass builder besides myself and he is way more expensive than me and I'm currently out of business due to life.
That all being said, good plastic steam builders are just as rare as brass ones. Tom I'll be watching this thread develop with interest. Frank is lucky to have a talented friend like you sir. You are a master builder and I'm proud to call you my friend. Now If I can get you to finish a few dozen on my brass steamers for me so I can retire! ha. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thanks for jumping in and for the very kind words of support. I was hoping you'd back me up on this issue.
You mentioned plastic steam, I don't touch them and refused to do any work on them.
Also, I forgot to mention that one must have patience and some "thinking outside the box" when making many of the brass repairs.
Two of the other painters I knew from the 80's and 90's are now retired from brass work of any kind.
I appreciate your support Thom.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 13, 2017, 11:20:48 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 13, 2017, 09:01:45 AM
I'll be watching too..... :)
I've sat here for 5 minutes trying to come up with something pithy to say about brass guys, hourly charges or dying arts, but I got nuttin'. This is really embarrassing. :-[ :-[ :-[
I am never embarrassed watching a Craftsman at work. I have seen, and been the recipient of, the Masters work.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for checking in and for the kind words. I forgot you were one of my first victims, oops, I mean customers. Old Pere Marquette #1225 hasn't fallen to pieces yet has it?
Tom ;D
Yesterday I mentioned replacing the old open frame motor with a 20X32 Sagami (Japan) can motor. The 20X32 is in millimeters. In the business we just refer to can motors as 20X32 or 32X40, etc.
The old motor shaft and gear shaft were connected by the use of a small rubber tube/hose. The tube was so old and hard that I had to use a #11 xacto blade to remove it. I'm surprised it still worked. I was gong to replace it with a new one but found a used universal coupling to use. This will give Frank a smoother running loco with no chance of slippage of the tube and shaft.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141647.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141647.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141659.jpeg)
Continued in a few. Of course, I need a fresh cold Diet Pepsi.
Next order of business was to attach the Sagami can motor to the locomotive frame. One thing to consider when replacing a motor is how and will the new motor fit inside the locomotive firebox.
I used the can motor and measured where the old frame motor was attached to the frame. In the next photo you can see the two old large holes in the frame. Two larger screws were used here to attach the old motor. Two new holes were drilled in the frame to attach the can motor. The two new screws hold the can motor to the frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141724.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141724.jpeg)
Here is the new motor and original gear box housing. Notice the motor shaft and the gear box shaft are on the same plane. This will give the loco a very smooth ride.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141711.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141711.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then did a test fit by placing the loco on the frame. IT DIDN'T FIT. What the ??? ??
I then realized my mistake. In measuring the new motor, I neglected to take into account the power/electrical poles on the back of the motor. The photos below are a repeat to show the back of the motor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141711.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141711.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141659.jpeg)
The motor fits inside the boiler but not with the electrical tabs sticking out the back.
Back to the drawing board.
More in a few.
I then measured the depth of the electrical tabs and remeasured and redrilled two new holes in the frame for the motor to be moved forward 1/4 inch. This of course created a domino affect.
The motor shaft had to be cut 1/4 inch shorter. This required the removal of the universal joint also. One hour later and it was all back together and the motor now fits inside the boiler.
No picture here as you can't see the motor with the boiler on.
In the photo below, you can see where new holes were drilled and the motor attached.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217134551.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217134551.jpeg)
I was still able to maintain the shaft alignment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217142143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130217142143.jpeg)
Preparing the loco frame, new motor, universal joint and the second motor position was just under 4 hours. Three hours 56 minutes so I'll round it up to four hours.
The motor replacement $25.00 X 4 = $100.00. This gives us a running total of $187.50. And, I haven't started the broken pilot repair yet.
Nice work so far Tom. ;) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on February 13, 2017, 02:26:12 PM
Nice work so far Tom. ;) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Bob,
Thank you kind sir. I appreciate you following along and posting your thoughts and comments.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I have a question for you sir. I noticed you reused the original gear box (which helps when applicable). It must have been in good condition (no hair line cracks or worn bearings etc.) Did you need to add any thrust washers for any slop play? Thanx Thom...
I emailed an old brass repair and painting guy out west, Oregon to be exact. We used to give each other business.
I got an email from him saying he quit the brass repair and painting business four years ago. He said he got tired of customers constantly trying to undercut his prices. At the time he quit, he was charging $775.00 per paint job depending on the complexity. The $775.00 was for a basic paint job of Smoke and Firebox Grey/Silver/Aluminum and loco and tender black. This included the decals supplied by the customer.
For the Pennsy K4, Southern PS4, SP GS4 and others, he added another $425.00.
Cab curtains, cab windows painted, cab windows installed, marker lights, coal load, firebox lights, CIL (Constant Intensity Lighting), Crew, Kadee couplers, whistle and bell cords were all added extras.
On repairs he charged $45.00 per hour.
My $25.00 per hour for the purpose of this thread is indeed very conservative.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 13, 2017, 02:41:28 PM
Tom,
I have a question for you sir. I noticed you reused the original gear box (which helps when applicable). It must have been in good condition (no hair line cracks or worn bearings etc.) Did you need to add any thrust washers for any slop play? Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thanks for mentioning this. I was going to cover this area in the next installment. But for your question this gear box is tight with no slop or movement.
I'll add more to this in the next installment. Probably tomorrow. I need to get off my rear for a few hours now.
Tom ;D
Tom, I doubt I would ever invest in a brass locomotive, but man I'm really enjoying your thread. I'm learning a lot. You are a craftsman. I'm glad you are feeling better and back at it, even at the bench. Phil
Hi Tom,
I love this stuff that you are doing with Frank's brass locomotives. It is something different and something that I need to get the courage to try and do it myself. I have always wanted try this because I have some old PFM brass locomotives that I have had when I was in high school and college and need updating with new motors, some repair work and decoders installed.
So I will be and avid follower.
Quote from: KCS Trains on February 13, 2017, 02:51:58 PM
Tom, I doubt I would ever invest in a brass locomotive, but man I'm really enjoying your thread. I'm learning a lot. You are a craftsman. I'm glad you are feeling better and back at it, even at the bench. Phil
Phil,
I was fortunate enough to get some brass way back in the early 70's. Even though the price seems tame now, meaning at those 70 prices. It was a struggle to get brass locos back then.
I think I pushed it a little early in the week so I backed off until this afternoon. Although I can tell things are much better due to the rest. I appreciate you following along and happy you are enjoying the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on February 13, 2017, 06:45:04 PM
Hi Tom,
I love this stuff that you are doing with Frank's brass locomotives. It is something different and something that I need to get the courage to try and do it myself. I have always wanted try this because I have some old PFM brass locomotives that I have had when I was in high school and college and need updating with new motors, some repair work and decoders installed.
So I will be and avid follower.
Steve,
Glad you are enjoying the thread. I remember the first brass loco I worked on and I was sure very timid about it.
Working on brass has been fun and frustrating over the past 35+ years. There seems to be one devil loco in every 100 or so and that is the one that makes me want to throw it up against the wall. Better yet put it in the oven at 400 degree and melt it. Oh, wait, I've already melted two out of the last 365+ paint jobs.
I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Thom mentioned the possibility of having to shore up the gear box using thrust washers.
This question goes along with something I neglected to mention earlier in the post. Although this loco has some issues, mainly which are cosmetic in nature, I'll get to them later in the thread.
Upon giving the loco a good inspection, I found that it has been infrequently used. The paint job is an older one but the loco is mechanically very sound.
DCC was first developed in Germany (LENZ) in the 1980's. Some time in the early 1990's the NMRA DCC committee got involved and the NMRA standards were published MR in October of 1983 if my memory is correct.
Back in a few.
Okay, I got a little side tracked but my point is that this loco is relatively new as far as time on the rails. When PFM came out with the DC Analog sound, it was acceptable to install the PFM sound using the old open frame Pittman motors.
My point being is that this loco has never been wired for anything. It is just a straight DC running loco at this time.
This next photo shows what appears to be excessive wear on the main drivers. Notice that I cleaned the driver wheel in the middle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141808.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141808.jpeg)
There was no wheel wear but just plain very dirty driver tires. This is the crude I got off the tires. The Q-tips show the gunk. The tires were cleaned by using Acetone on the Q-tip and removing the dirt on the driver tires.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141754.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141754.jpeg)
Now, nice and clean and no wheel wear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141823.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141823.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When I removed the gear box, I found that the grease was so old that it actually had hardened. I removed all the old grease, cleaned the gear box with Q-tips and Acetone, applied fresh lube/grease and oiled the bronze bushings.
For a loco that was build and imported back in the mid 1960, it was very common for some side to side gear box movement. Also, back then many of the wheels were hand pressed on the axles and thus it was possible to have a little wheel wobble.
NOTE: I'd like to mention Thom once again. He is only one of two brass guys that I ever knew who actually ever fixed the wheel wobble, no matter how slight, as well as placing thrust washers on the gear box.For me, I pretty much left those two areas alone as long as the loco still ran smoothly. I've only used thrust washers twice in all the years. So you can get an idea of what all goes into getting a brass loco to run smoothly and quietly. That's why I said Thom is many cuts above me in brass repairs and painting.
This loco gear box is relatively new as far as use is concerned. I made a video to show the gear box and universal in action. I've seen gear boxes that move so much from side to side that it looks like the gear box housing would touch the loco frame on both sides.
You can see there is a just a hint of side to side movement and I say this one is tight. Notice also the second set of drivers wobble while the loco is running. To me, this wobble isn't enough to worry about or change. The side rods and mechanism is very smooth.
If you have good hearing, you can hear my Doo-Wop 50's music in the back ground.
Reviving the gear box, cleaning wheels and lubricating the journal and side rods - two hours Add $50.00.
Running total now $237.50.
[/color]
My video has been blocked by SME, Sony Music Entertainment, due to me not giving them credit for owning the dang song.
I'll redo the video, without their D--N music in the background.
I'll add the new video in the morning.
I apologize for the inconvenience.
SME,
Just like Tom to try to save a couple Nichols on copyright music. ha. Tom you can afford to rent the music, after all with all the high money you charge for working on brass engines. T...
Sony Music must have very acute hearing. ;D
Jeff
Tom
It sure sounds like the Erieman is going to have a great running locomotive when you get done.
The copyright thing is really funny. I wonder if they are going to try to invoice you?
Give Howard Zane a call - I'm sure he has some great music that he will loan you for a brass locomotive video.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 17, 2017, 08:37:50 AM
Tom
It sure sounds like the Erieman is going to have a great running locomotive when you get done.
The copyright thing is really funny. I wonder if they are going to try to invoice you?
Give Howard Zane a call - I'm sure he has some great music that he will loan you for a brass locomotive video.
Yes,
Like Howard on the banjo!!!
Frank / Erieman
Banjos?
Did someone mention Banjos?
Hummm?
Here's some more dueling banjos..... ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myhnAZFR1po
If you'd like Greg and I would be willing to come down and sing in two part disharmony so you'd have some legal, if not intolerable, background music. ;D
Tom
You have lost control of your thread again ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 16, 2017, 08:26:57 PM
SME,
Just like Tom to try to save a couple Nichols on copyright music. ha. Tom you can afford to rent the music, after all with all the high money you charge for working on brass engines. T...
Thom,
SME must have pretty good hearing to hear what little was being played. They can keep their stinking music. Maybe I should charge more. After all, it's time for more diapers.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 16, 2017, 09:32:46 PM
Sony Music must have very acute hearing. ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
You are correct. And, I might add greed to the mix.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 17, 2017, 08:37:50 AM
Tom
It sure sounds like the Erieman is going to have a great running locomotive when you get done.
The copyright thing is really funny. I wonder if they are going to try to invoice you?
Give Howard Zane a call - I'm sure he has some great music that he will loan you for a brass locomotive video.
John,
Frank will be very happy with this one. I deleted my wonderful video with their stinking music. Can't very well invoice me if they blocked the music.
I do have one of Howard's CDs and he is playing the banjo. I'm not chancing doing another one with music although unlike SME, Howard would be pleased.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on February 17, 2017, 10:01:11 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 17, 2017, 08:37:50 AM
Tom
It sure sounds like the Erieman is going to have a great running locomotive when you get done.
The copyright thing is really funny. I wonder if they are going to try to invoice you?
Give Howard Zane a call - I'm sure he has some great music that he will loan you for a brass locomotive video.
Yes,
Like Howard on the banjo!!!
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Howard does play a mean banjo. I've heard him live and on the CD, he is really talented. His wife, Sandy, plays the fiddle and their group is called the "The New Southern Cowtippers."
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 17, 2017, 11:22:18 AM
Banjos?
Did someone mention Banjos?
Hummm?
WHAT THE ????!
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 17, 2017, 01:57:26 PM
Here's some more dueling banjos..... ;)
Greg,
What a great movie and banjo playing. I never knew you played the banjo or even had a swing on your porch.
Tom 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 17, 2017, 02:25:18 PM
If you'd like Greg and I would be willing to come down and sing in two part disharmony so you'd have some legal, if not intolerable, background music. ;D
Bob,
You are very kind and thoughty! But I must pass on this fine offer.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 17, 2017, 03:08:59 PM
Tom
You have lost control of your thread again ;D ;D ;D
John,
Yepper, I believe you are correct!
Tom 8)
Okay,
Back to normal whatever that is. I'm waiting for the video to finish uploading.
By the way, I spoke to Darryl from NWSL. He charges a flat $45.00 bucks per hour no matter what. He feels like he has the talent, know how and tools. Take it or take your business elsewhere.
Just saying again, my measly $25.00 per hour is definitely very very conservative.
Continued in a few. Time to change.
Now, finally a new video sans music.
This one is 4:37 in length. You pretty much get the picture after a minute. No charge for the extra.
[/color]
This loco was custom painted without taking the loco apart. I'm sure the boiler was removed but you can see the top of the cross bracing and brake hanger brackets are still brass colored. All the exposed brass indicates to me it was painted with the drivers, side rods, steam chest, pilot and etc. were all in place at painting time.
Just plain lazy on the painters part.
Tom,
Nice job on the video! Though I do miss the doh-wahps. ha. I do notice you got lucky on this gear box project with a low profile worm/gear direct drive setup. It's one of the simplest setups. Very good, very simple, very easy to tweak.
I also notice you have almost no wheel wear which tells me you should have almost no bearing or side rod wear also. Lucky Bast$#d. I notice what you were saying about the driver wobbles. Those aren't bad at all. As I'm sure you know, the gear noise is normal for those gear boxes, again, not bad at all.
Since your installing sound there is no need to tweak anything at this point. Having said that. If this engine was remaining DC only or without sound I would tweak the gear noise though. Question, in the video photo I notice the hind driver side rod on the fireman's side looks to be slightly bent. Is that a photo illusion? How many hours invested to this point have you used? Thanx Thom...
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 17, 2017, 04:00:39 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 17, 2017, 01:57:26 PM
Here's some more dueling banjos..... ;)
Greg,
What a great movie and banjo playing. I never knew you played the banjo or even had a swing on your porch.
Tom 8)
Hey Tom.....I put in a lot hours to get the fingers to move like that, but that was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away.
Hey I even learned to count to 20 without taking the boots off. ;D ;D ;D
By the way, that scene was shot in the high rent district. ;)
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 17, 2017, 02:25:18 PM
If you'd like Greg and I would be willing to come down and sing in two part disharmony so you'd have some legal, if not intolerable, background music. ;D
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 17, 2017, 06:09:13 PM
Tom,
Nice job on the video! Though I do miss the doh-wahps. ha. I do notice you got lucky on this gear box project with a low profile worm/gear direct drive setup. It's one of the simplest setups. Very good, very simple, very easy to tweak.
I also notice you have almost no wheel wear which tells me you should have almost no bearing or side rod wear also. Lucky Bast$#d. I notice what you were saying about the driver wobbles. Those aren't bad at all. As I'm sure you know, the gear noise is normal for those gear boxes, again, not bad at all.
Since your installing sound there is no need to tweak anything at this point. Having said that. If this engine was remaining DC only or without sound I would tweak the gear noise though. Question, in the video photo I notice the hind driver side rod on the fireman's side looks to be slightly bent. Is that a photo illusion? How many hours invested to this point have you used? Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I agree with you on all of the above. The one thing however, is that the Fireman side side rod is an optical illusion. I showed it to the Judge and Greg and they agree. It's not bent, see, I'm still a lucky Bast$^*&!
I'll have a new total after the next series of posts. but for now I'm still at 9.5 hours of work on this one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2017, 08:37:15 AM
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D
Then come on down and sing, and sing often. I'm all for the healing. You can even lay hands on me and say a few Jesus things.
Tom ;D
If my friend Steve from Washington state were making the repairs - 9.5 hours ($55) = $522.50.
If Darryl from NWSL were making the repairs - 9.5 hours ($45) = $427.50.
Very conservative Tom making the repairs - 9.5 hours ($25) = $237.50
Just FYI!
I'm going to move on to the pilot repair.
I'm not sure what happened, how it happened or by whom, but it fell on me to fix it.
The pilot was broken from the pilot deck plate. For this repair, the area we all call the "cow catcher" and the foot steps were broken.
I apologize for the bad picture below. You can see where the pilot brackets were attached to the front of pilot decking. I say attached as it was epoxied on one side and some super glue held the other bracket on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217144233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217144233.jpeg)
More in a few.
In order to make the repair, both the pilot and front pilot deck needed to be cleaned. I used a #11 Xacto blade to remove the epoxy and super glue. I then used my Dremel and wire wheel to clean and polish the brass.
Polishing the brass will make soldering the repair much much easier.
Again, my apologies for the bad pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141213.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141213.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141200.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141200.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The repair can be made five different ways. The first two were part of the previous repair and proved to be insufficient.
1. Use 5 Minute Epoxy to make the repair. F for failure.
2. Use CAA/Super Glue to make the repair. F for failure.
3. Use a small Jeweler's torch to make the repair. A for excellent.
4. Use the Resistance Soldering System to make the Repair. Also A for excellent.
5. Tin both parts with solder and do it the old fashion way if possible. Also A for excellent if done properly.
I had to use option #5 for the following reasons.
Using the small torch on this area may have led to dire consequences. The torch, in this small an area, heats all surrounding parts on the pilot, pilot deck and coupler lift rings holding the coupler lift bar. Unsoldering all these other parts is certainly a bad idea. Option #3 - no good.
I wanted to use option #4 but couldn't. I haven't used my Resistance Soldering Unit for several years. The power supply wasn't working so I had no heat for the tweezers. This would have been the easiest choice and wouldn't unsolder the other parts. Option #4 - no good or not possible this time.
Option #5 is what I had left and I might add is the more difficult. So you see Mr. Thom D. I'm all that lucky of a guy after all.
Here is how this repair was made.
I tinned both sides of the front of the pilot deck and the backs of both the pilot step brackets.
Wow, I got involved and didn't take any pictures of this step.
More in a few.
After all four areas were tinned, I used the tip of a toothpick and applied an extremely small bit of flux to the solder.
I then held the foot step brackets against the front pilot deck using a small clamp on one side. I used the Weller 140 Watt soldering iron and applied heat to the bracket. The soldering iron melted both the solder on the back of the bracket and the front pilot deck thus soldering both together. I then repeated the the process on the other side.
In the photo below, you can see where just this amount of heat burned the old paint. Now imagine what the small torch would have done! :'( :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141549.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141549.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141606.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141606.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Very nicely done Tom. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Bob,
Thank you my friend, much appreciate the kind words.
Tom ;D
After the solder was cool, I used a Q-tip dipped in alcohol and cleaned the flux off the pilot area. I also removed the burnt paint using a #11 blade. When dry I touched up the paint. This was a little tricky. I mixed a small amount of Scalecoat Loco Black and White until I got what I thought was a close match to the original paint.
NOTE: I used the original Scalecoat paint and not the crap on the market today. Fortunately, for me and Frank, I have several bottles of the original paint formula.
Also, I spoke to Frank yesterday and he requested I remove the front Kadee #5 coupler and replace it with a scale Kadee #158 coupler which I did.
Old Kadee #5 on the cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154359.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154359.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154412.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154422.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180217154422.jpeg)
Making the pilot repair including deciding on the best option, cleaning parts, preparing parts, soldering parts, cleaning the soldered parts, mixing the touch up paint, touching up the paint and changing the coupler 3.5 hours.
New running total is now 13 hours for a $$ amount of 325.00.
Darryl is now at $585.00 and Steve is $715.00
I'm just to cheap! 8) 8)
More tomorrow or Monday.
Tom,
Excellent, excellent step by step photo tutorial sir! It's so cool to see someone who really understands and takes the time to do the job correctly (no glues ha). I'm a front row student in this class. I'm all eyes. BTW teach, I put an apple on your workbench. Thanx Thom...
U Da Man!!!
Quote from: tct855 on February 18, 2017, 06:51:39 PM
Tom,
Excellent, excellent step by step photo tutorial sir! It's so cool to see someone who really understands and takes the time to do the job correctly (no glues ha). I'm a front row student in this class. I'm all eyes. BTW teach, I put an apple on your workbench. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Very nice speaking with you this afternoon. Thanks for the kind words on the work. I did get the apple, thanks.
I appreciate you following along and posting your thoughts.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on February 18, 2017, 09:03:16 PM
U Da Man!!!
Donato,
Thank you very much cousin. ;D ;D ;D Actually, U DA MAN - you always find the time to stop by and post a comment.
I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
I just got off the phone with Thom, tct855, and made the comment that so far no one has emailed me and wanted me to work on their brass. Well, I got one this afternoon.
He isn't a forum member but said he follows the forum. I politely declined.
Now is a great time to reiterate my desire to NOT DO ANY MORE BRASS WORK OTHER THAN MINE.
I appreciate the confidence people have in my work but I'm retired from brass repairs and painting.
I'm doing this for Erieman and this is a deal we worked out a couple of years ago. Frank has been very patient with me and I'm just now getting around to fulfilling my commitment to him.
I just don't have the time for other work.
Thanks to all who are following.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 19, 2017, 02:02:59 PM
I just got off the phone with Thom, tct855, and made the comment that so far no one has emailed me and wanted me to work on their brass. Well, I got one this afternoon.
He isn't a forum member but said he follows the forum. I politely declined.
Now is a great time to reiterate my desire to NOT DO ANY MORE BRASS WORK OTHER THAN MINE.
I appreciate the confidence people have in my work but I'm retired from brass repairs and painting.
I'm doing this for Erieman and this is a deal we worked out a couple of years ago. Frank has been very patient with me and I'm just now getting around to fulfilling my commitment to him.
I just don't have the time for other work.
Thanks to all who are following.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I guess this means I can't send you any more of my brass engines!!! Only Kidding. Love your work. Have great day my friend. Raining here. Playing in the train room.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on February 19, 2017, 02:39:22 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 19, 2017, 02:02:59 PM
I just got off the phone with Thom, tct855, and made the comment that so far no one has emailed me and wanted me to work on their brass. Well, I got one this afternoon.
He isn't a forum member but said he follows the forum. I politely declined.
Now is a great time to reiterate my desire to NOT DO ANY MORE BRASS WORK OTHER THAN MINE.
I appreciate the confidence people have in my work but I'm retired from brass repairs and painting.
I'm doing this for Erieman and this is a deal we worked out a couple of years ago. Frank has been very patient with me and I'm just now getting around to fulfilling my commitment to him.
I just don't have the time for other work.
Thanks to all who are following.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I guess this means I can't send you any more of my brass engines!!! Only Kidding. Love your work. Have great day my friend. Raining here. Playing in the train room.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
It's a good thing you are just kidding. I have a hard time saying no to good friends.
I appreciate the kind words on the loco work and again, I apologize for the long delay.
BTW, I just finished blending in the "ERIE" herald on the left side of the tender, looks great! Pictures in a few days. As you can tell, I'm way ahead of the thread post.
Tom ;D
Here's a little teaser/quiz for everyone EXCEPT Thom.
What do you see wrong, if anything, in the following three pictures?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150713.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150713.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150726.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150726.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150738.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150738.jpeg)
Person with the most correct answers gets a nice cold Diet Pepsi on me. To drink that is and not to pour on me.
Oh, you have to come to Orlando to get the nice cold Diet Pepsi.
I'll be back later - time to take my Babe Nurse out.
T
Hey Tom, great job thus far and enjoying the repair thread on the Erie ...
It looks to me as the hole in the smoke box does not line up with the headlight. Be tough getting that lens installed and looking right.
Just my two cents,
All the best,
--Paul
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 18, 2017, 02:29:59 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2017, 08:37:15 AM
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D
Then come on down and sing, and sing often. I'm all for the healing. You can even lay hands on me and say a few Jesus things.
Tom ;D
Singing is okay.....I'll leave the laying of hands - down there - to Pam, thank you very much. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: PaulS on February 19, 2017, 03:17:15 PM
Hey Tom, great job thus far and enjoying the repair thread on the Erie ...
It looks to me as the hole in the smoke box does not line up with the headlight. Be tough getting that lens installed and looking right.
Just my two cents,
All the best,
--Paul
Paul,
Thanks for the support and comment, much appreciated.
Yes, you are correct on the headlight issue. That's only one of four problems.
Whom ever drilled the hole in the headlight did it at an angle. If I turn the loco to the left the holes will line up. I did fix it though and will cover this repair in a later post.
You get 1/4 of a Diet Pepsi!
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 19, 2017, 05:15:53 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 18, 2017, 02:29:59 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2017, 08:37:15 AM
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D
Then come on down and sing, and sing often. I'm all for the healing. You can even lay hands on me and say a few Jesus things.
Tom ;D
Singing is okay.....I'll leave the laying of hands - down there - to Pam, thank you very much. ;D ;D ;D
That hurts just thinking about it. :o :o :o :o
Jim
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 19, 2017, 05:15:53 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 18, 2017, 02:29:59 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2017, 08:37:15 AM
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D
Then come on down and sing, and sing often. I'm all for the healing. You can even lay hands on me and say a few Jesus things.
Tom ;D
Singing is okay.....I'll leave the laying of hands - down there - to Pam, thank you very much. ;D ;D ;D
Gregory,
I need to talk to Pegi, your mind is certainly in the wrong place. I was thinking more of my shoulder or top of my head. As Hercules Poirot says, "The little gray cells"!
Tom
Quote from: jimmillho on February 19, 2017, 05:18:52 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 19, 2017, 05:15:53 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 18, 2017, 02:29:59 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2017, 08:37:15 AM
Sounds like a plan Bob.....it might even speed up the healing process. ;D ;D
Then come on down and sing, and sing often. I'm all for the healing. You can even lay hands on me and say a few Jesus things.
Tom ;D
Singing is okay.....I'll leave the laying of hands - down there - to Pam, thank you very much. ;D ;D ;D
That hurts just thinking about it. :o :o :o :o
Jim
EXACTLY!
Okay, I'll leave the tease/quiz up for a few days and then give the answers.
Hopefully, we can bring this thread back from the brink of a possible parental control issue.
As many of you know, I always paint the bell, whistle and pop valves with Floquil Brass. The bell, whistle and pop valves will got so sooty they look like they are painted black on the loco. It is my belief that in painting them on the model, the loco takes on a more realistic look.
Here is how the loco looks without the whistle and pop valves painted brass.
You can also see I painted the faucet handles red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172632.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172632.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172644.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172644.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is how they look with the Floquil Brass paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172656.jpeg)
I'll add whistle and bell cords in the next few threads.
The new total are as follows. Since I have $25, 45 and 55 per hour, I'll go ahead and add $35.00 per hour for comparison.
Yours truly - 13.75 hours = $343.75 (Retired)
Repair guy at $35.00 per hour - 13.75 = $481.25
Darryl - 13.75 hours = $618.75 (Still actively working)
Steve - 13.75 hours $756.25 (Retired)
I'm not sure what Thom charges for his brass repairs. Whatever it is, I'm telling you folks, it is well worth the price of admission.
Time to repair the tender decal. I'm jumping ahead a little on this. I mentioned to Frank I made the repair and want him to see it came out great and not to worry.
Again, here is the offending Erie Herald decal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141133.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120217141133.jpeg)
Frank sent me a sheet of Erie decals a few years ago when I repaired and painted the other Erie loco. Which by the way I still need to tweak.
Here are the steam loco decals.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180242.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180242.jpeg)
More in a few.
I started by cutting one Erie decal off the sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180257.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180257.jpeg)
I then cut a corner decal off the herald decal. You can see I cut a large piece of the corner. I want good coverage and not just a little at the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180310.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180310.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then soaked the decal in water until the decal easily slid off the decal sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180326.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180326.jpeg)
There are two ways to apply a decal and get a good seal.
Usually on a new paint job the paint is new and glossy. The decal goes on very smoothly; however you can still apply a light amount of decal set to the new paint and then apply the decal.
Obviously, this isn't a new paint job. And, I'm not going to spray the sides with clear gloss paint. You know why?
If I did, I would need to spray the entire loco with the gloss as just one coat of gloss will change the color of the loco. By only spraying the tender side, the loco boiler, cab sides and the rest will all look different.
It is usually frowned upon to apply decals to a flat finished paint. In this case, it will be fine as the area I'm actually applying the decal is a very small area. The decal set will help "set" the decal. I expected no problems in doing this.
I then applied the decal using tweezers. Once in place, I added Champ Decal Set to the new decal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180339.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180339.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
In the photo above, you can see the decal set (the wet area) around where the new decal was applied.
Also, I'm not sure you can see this but a little of the black still shows through the new decal. The repair is made but a little black is visible. This needs to be addressed as well.
To fix the fix, I cut a smaller corner off the decal sheet. I cut just enough of the corner to cover the black showing through the new decal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180352.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180352.jpeg)
Continued in a few. It is most definitely Diet Pepsi time.
Here is the completed decal repair.
You can see the top is just a shade darker than the rest but I'll add a little weathering here to blend it in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180405.jpeg)
In the photo below, you can see the decal is almost the same color as the original decal. The decal set has dried and the decal has a slight flat finish to it.
The area that appears to be a water stain will be removed with warm water after the decal has set and dried for a 24 hour period.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180417.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217180417.jpeg)
Pricing up date. Decal repair took 1.5 hours.
ACL1504 - 15.25 hours = $381.25
Unknown guy - 15.25 hours = $533.75
Darryl - 15.25 hours = $686.25
Steve - 15.25 hours = $838.75
Tom, excellent post as always. I wish you would have posted this back when I had my question on steam engines. I did in fact save up enough to get one. bought a PFM Milw. 4-6-4, matched it to pictures and it is right on and it runs great. But after reading you post here I am beginning to really like that faded golden color it is..
Tom,
Since you're taking pics of each process of the repair, I thought you and your viewers might find this stop animation steam build interesting. Thanx Thom...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPy5-8a0jUc
Quote from: ak-milw on February 19, 2017, 07:27:10 PM
Tom, excellent post as always. I wish you would have posted this back when I had my question on steam engines. I did in fact save up enough to get one. bought a PFM Milw. 4-6-4, matched it to pictures and it is right on and it runs great. But after reading you post here I am beginning to really like that faded golden color it is..
Andy,
Thank you for the kind compliment.
I went back through my post and don't see your question. Was it a separate post? If so, I'm sorry for some reason I missed it. Do you know the link? I couldn't find one.
The faded golden color on the decal is due the fact I lessened the brightness for a more clear view.
Tom ;D
When you are in awe of the material before you, comments are usually superfluous. 8)
Tom
Excellent work and excellent thread! The locomotive is going to really look nice on Frank's layout. You seem to be getting more done each day - I hope that is a sign that you are feeling better. Take care, my friend.
Thom,
That was quite the video. I looked up the Aster kits and boy they are anything but cheap.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on February 20, 2017, 09:42:27 AM
When you are in awe of the material before you, comments are usually superfluous. 8)
Chip,
Wow, that is quite the gratuitous compliment. Thank you kind sir. I also appreciate you following along on the adventure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 20, 2017, 10:48:59 AM
Tom
Excellent work and excellent thread! The locomotive is going to really look nice on Frank's layout. You seem to be getting more done each day - I hope that is a sign that you are feeling better. Take care, my friend.
John,
Thank you for the very kind words on the work and thread. Frank is going to like this one for sure.
I'm able to sit longer now so this has been much easier than a few weeks ago. I am doing much better but not to the point of standing for a long period of time in order to work on the layout.
My goal is to start a very little layout work next week.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2017, 08:13:02 AM
Quote from: ak-milw on February 19, 2017, 07:27:10 PM
Tom, excellent post as always. I wish you would have posted this back when I had my question on steam engines. I did in fact save up enough to get one. bought a PFM Milw. 4-6-4, matched it to pictures and it is right on and it runs great. But after reading you post here I am beginning to really like that faded golden color it is..
Andy,
Thank you for the kind compliment.
I went back through my post and don't see your question. Was it a separate post? If so, I'm sorry for some reason I missed it. Do you know the link? I couldn't find one.
The faded golden color on the decal is due the fact I lessened the brightness for a more clear view.
Tom ;D
Tom, just kiddin' with ya, that post was from the end of last year. The golden color I was referring to was the brass color of my engine. I got it and thought I would find someone to paint it but after this posting and prices I think I will just leave it brass and put it on a shelf.
Quote from: ak-milw on February 20, 2017, 06:56:29 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2017, 08:13:02 AM
Quote from: ak-milw on February 19, 2017, 07:27:10 PM
Tom, excellent post as always. I wish you would have posted this back when I had my question on steam engines. I did in fact save up enough to get one. bought a PFM Milw. 4-6-4, matched it to pictures and it is right on and it runs great. But after reading you post here I am beginning to really like that faded golden color it is..
Andy,
Thank you for the kind compliment.
I went back through my post and don't see your question. Was it a separate post? If so, I'm sorry for some reason I missed it. Do you know the link? I couldn't find one.
The faded golden color on the decal is due the fact I lessened the brightness for a more clear view.
Tom ;D
Tom, just kiddin' with ya, that post was from the end of last year. The golden color I was referring to was the brass color of my engine. I got it and thought I would find someone to paint it but after this posting and prices I think I will just leave it brass and put it on a shelf.
Andy,
Okay, I was a little slow there and now I'm with the program. Do some searches on the net, for custom painters and you will probably be able to find some for the Hudson. Keep in mind you get what you pay for as well. Another thing to consider is the decals. Decals are hard to come by now unless you had a stash from Champ. The Milwaukee Historical Society is a good place to get info on HO scale decals for steam locos.
Tom ;D
I did a little teaser quiz a couple of pages ago. Only PaulS took a shot and he got the one right.
Here are the photos again.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150713.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150713.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150726.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217150738.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Good Job for Paul, but I wasn't allow to play...
Answers for the quiz -
1. PaulS saw that the bell and smoke box holes were misaligned. I fixed this by realigning the headlight. I had to slightly bend the light to the right (looking at the loco) and turned a few degrees clockwise. See photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164314.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164314.jpeg)
2. Looking at the front of the loco, the running board steps on the right are bent outwards. I fixed this by slowly and gently bending it back a little at a time.
3. The bell bracket is bent to the right. Left if looking at the photo. Not much but noticeable to me. I left this as is due to the fact by bending it back the bell won't sit straight in the bracket.
4. The number boards showing the #3349 are actually white styrene. The painter of this looc, cut small strips of styrene, added the numbers and glued the styrene to the brass number boards. Look at the photo above and you can see the number boards are just slightly off center. I left these are is as I don't have any decals to match these and you really have to look to see the difference. Either no one noticed or no one wanted to play!
A BIG THANK YOU TO PAULS!
More in a few.
Quote from: tct855 on February 21, 2017, 06:00:10 PM
Good Job for Paul, but I wasn't allow to play...
This test quiz was way to easy for you Khaki!
Tom
The small items mentioned above - 45 minutes.
ACL1504 16 hours = $400.00
Unknown guy 16 hours = $560.00
Darryl 16 hours = $720.00
Steve 16 hours = $880.00
More in a few.
Here is a look at the white styrene number boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172547.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172547.jpeg)
I used the touch up paint to hide the white color. This time was included in the four items mentioned above.
I didn't like the color of the cab windows. They were some brown color. This loco needs to stand out and the new engineer and fireman decided to make this their lady. We'll just say she is fine but needs new window color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172610.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172610.jpeg)
They also plan to redo the old arm rests also.
Diet Pepsi time friends. Back in a while.
Tom,
Yeah, I guess you were right! I looked at the pics and saw things I would have changed and whoooo, you ended up naming all the same things. Also I thought I saw from the pics the engineer side marker light a little bent also? I guess I'm way too detail oriented. It's decided, I'm raising my rates up too! It's true one gets the quality of work one wants to pay for. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 21, 2017, 06:26:00 PM
Tom,
Yeah, I guess you were right! I looked at the pics and saw things I would have changed and whoooo, you ended up naming all the same things. Also I thought I saw from the pics the engineer side marker light a little bent also? I guess I'm way too detail oriented. It's decided, I'm raising my rates up too! It's true one gets the quality of work one wants to pay for. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
You are correct on the marker light. However, I didn't mention this as it is a bad marker casting vs. a bent one. I didn't think anyone but you would see it anyway.
You should raise your rates and you should be at a minimum of $45 - $50. per hour. From what I've seen of your work vs the others you are still a bargain. I'm a retired brass buy so I know of what I speak.
No brag, just fact. You are certainly well worth the price.
Tom
I painted the windows with Floquil Signal Red, two coats.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190217172622.jpeg)
I painted the arm rests with Floquil Foundation, two coats.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164143.jpeg)
As you can see, I also added Canopy Glue for the cab windows.
More in a few.
I used Details West .006 brass wire for the bell and whistle cords.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164155.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164155.jpeg)
In this next picture, you can really see how bent the bell bracket is.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164208.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164208.jpeg)
Yepper, more in a few.
I wanted to have cab curtains and here is how I made them.
Many years ago, I found some cloth paper. It feels like cloth but it is actually paper. I've used this in other threads to make curtains. If you are a new viewer to my additional details this is quite simple. You can also use a good quality paper napkin from one of the better chain restaurants.
I have a small piece here, And, yes, it is pink.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164221.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164221.jpeg)
I measured the cab from the cab top to the bottom of the cab and cut two pieces off the small square.
I then folded them over on themselves. I tied a knot, using thread, a little from the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164234.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164234.jpeg)
I then painted the two cab curtains with Floquil Earth.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164247.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164247.jpeg)
When these dry, I'll weather them using some light and dark A&I wash/stain.
More in a few.
I had a conversation with Frank this morning concerning the headlight light. He wanted to know if I planned on placing some sort of cover on the light.
I hope Thom can back me up on this next statement.
"When working on another's brass, plastic or diesel, one should always anticipate any questions and be ready to answer assertively."
In years past, lighting a brass loco was done with a 1.5v mini lamp using a CIL (Constant Intensity Light) unit. One could also use a 12v GOW (grain of wheat) bulb and wire it directly to the motor leads. However, as the speed increased, the intensity of the bulb also increased. AH, the good old days.
Prior to DCC either one of these options was acceptable and actively practiced.
Anyway, I knew immediately where Frank was headed.
He wanted to know if I planned on using a MV lens in the headlight bracket without actually asking me. I then said, "Do you mean installing a MV lens?" He said, "Yes, you are way ahead of me."
More in a few.
So, let's talk about MV Lens. These were sold by a Company out of Orange, CA. back in the late 80's and 90's. They are still offered in the Walthers catalog.
They were called M. V. Products and were a good realistic light lens for models.
Here is one that will fit on Frank's loco headlight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164327.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164327.jpeg)
The one shown above fits many different locos. This particular one fits on about 60 different brass locos. I won't list them all here.
The purpose of the MV lens was to give your loco the appearance of a light without actually having one. It is backed by a bright silver foil.
You can see the back side of the lens in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164339.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164339.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
It didn't take us brass repair/painting guys to figure out the foil on the back could be removed. By doing this, we also discovered the lack of foil on the back made the little 1.5v lamp look much brighter and more of a realistic looking headlight.
You can see the foil is partially removed in the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164352.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164352.jpeg)
Many years later the micro and nano LEDs arrived on the scene.
I'm installing a micro LED in the headlight of Frank's Eire loco. This LED will negate the need for a lens. Actually the lens will make the light look much worse.
Here you see the LED in the headlight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164407.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164407.jpeg)
More in a few.
I'm using a 9 volt battery and a 1K resistor to show you the difference in using a lens and not using a lens with the LED.
The first photo shows the lit LED with the MV lens in place. Its to bright and not realistic.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164443.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164443.jpeg)
This next photo is the lit LED without the MV lens. Its not as bright and looks more realistic.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164421.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210217164421.jpeg)
So, to answer Frank's question, " Yes, Frank, you get no MV lens on this loco!"
More tomorrow night. I need to upload and crop some more pictures.
Price update.
Installing bell and whistle cords, cab windows, painting cab windows, making/painting cab curtains = Two hours and 15 minutes. No charge for the LED and MV lens lesson.
ACL1504 18.25 hours = $456.25
Unknown guy 18.25 hours = $638.75
Darryl 18.25 hours = $821.25
Steve 18.25 hours = $1003.75
Boy am I ever loosing money here! Just kidding, but if I did start back I'd be between the Unkown guy and Darryl. Probably closer to Darryl.
Mr. ACL1504,
You are correct sir on all of the above statements! I've seen the same on the headlighting as well. Added note: I sometimes fill in the headlight area with one of the clear rubber glues which helps to fill up the air void of not having an actual lens. Each model is it own creation.
I heard a nasty rumor, that you were going to light up the markers as well on this beautifully redone model to round out the overall viewing and operating of this high dollar piece of art. Excuse me while I duct. I think I hear a loaded diet pepsi flying my way!!!
Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 21, 2017, 08:03:17 PM
Mr. ACL1504,
You are correct sir on all of the above statements! I've seen the same on the headlighting as well. Added note: I sometimes fill in the headlight area with one of the clear rubber glues which helps to fill up the air void of not having an actual lens. Each model is it own creation.
I heard a nasty rumor, that you were going to light up the markers as well on this beautifully redone model to round out the overall viewing and operating of this high dollar piece of art. Excuse me while I duct. I think I hear a loaded diet pepsi flying my way!!!
Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I'm not sure Frank would appreciate the extra feature you suggested. Especially considering that it would raise the price another 3-4 bills.
Yes, it is a nasty rumor that the markers will be lit. A Diet Pepsi is on the way so go to your corner and wait. You just need to decide if you want it to hit the back of your head or your forehead. :o :o
Tom 8)
T~,
Oh, I think I just got b-itched slapped! I'm in your corner so I'm going to use my cat like reflects and duck! ha. Keep going teach I'm all eyes. Oh and there's another apple on the workbench for you. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 22, 2017, 08:02:56 AM
T~,
Oh, I think I just got b-itched slapped! I'm in your corner so I'm going to use my cat like reflects and duck! ha. Keep going teach I'm all eyes. Oh and there's another apple on the workbench for you. Thanx Thom...
Th~,
Okay, you are forgiven this time. But don't let it happen a gain.
BTW, is your apple the one with the worm? :P :o
Tom ;D
Thanks T~, you're a good man Charlie Brown!!!
Thom,
I learned a long time ago not to give any S*^t to the guy who is doing such a wonderful job painting / fixing your brass engine. ACL 1504 is a learned modeler and I pull my full trust in his decisions. I can't wait to see it run on my layout, but that will be another day. He is probably running it on his layout today with the judge!
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on February 22, 2017, 10:15:46 AM
Thom,
I learned a long time ago not to give any S*^t to the guy who is doing such a wonderful job painting / fixing your brass engine. ACL 1504 is a learned modeler and I pull my full trust in his decisions. I can't wait to see it run on my layout, but that will be another day. He is probably running it on his layout today with the judge!
Frank / Erieman
Frank is 100% right, Thom.....remember this is the same guy who gave poor ole' JimmyD a coronary when one of Jimmy's structures went up in flames. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Erieman on February 22, 2017, 10:15:46 AM
Thom,
I learned a long time ago not to give any S*^t to the guy who is doing such a wonderful job painting / fixing your brass engine. ACL 1504 is a learned modeler and I pull my full trust in his decisions. I can't wait to see it run on my layout, but that will be another day. He is probably running it on his layout today with the judge!
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Happy Birthday my friend. The loco sound is being installed this week. I should have a video of it running on the A&S RR next week.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 22, 2017, 10:32:29 AM
Quote from: Erieman on February 22, 2017, 10:15:46 AM
Thom,
I learned a long time ago not to give any S*^t to the guy who is doing such a wonderful job painting / fixing your brass engine. ACL 1504 is a learned modeler and I pull my full trust in his decisions. I can't wait to see it run on my layout, but that will be another day. He is probably running it on his layout today with the judge!
Frank / Erieman
Frank is 100% right, Thom.....remember this is the same guy who gave poor ole' JimmyD a coronary when one of Jimmy's structures went up in flames. ;D ;D ;D
What? I'll say it again, it was Slim's LED that burned the station. Certainly not me!
T~
TCS WOW sound is being installed in the loco.
I'm using the 8 ohm universal speaker kit for this loco. I'm used this speaker in several of my other WOW sounded brass locos. It has a really great deep base sound for the exhaust.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081244.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081244.jpeg)
I place the speaker housing on the tender frame and etched around it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081257.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081257.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081320.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081320.jpeg)
I drilled a few holes in the tender deck inside the etched circle. I also deburred around the drilled holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081334.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081334.jpeg)
Drilling tender for speaker was 1 hour.
At this point, the loco is ready for sound.
Price update -
ACL1504 19.25 hours = $481.25
Unknown Guy 19.25 hours = $673.75
Darryl 19.25 hours = $866.25
Steve 19.25 hours = $1058.75
Here are a few pictures of the loco prior to the sound installation.
In the next photo the LED is about 1.5 inches out in front of the headlight housing.
A great friend of mine, Jon, has agreed to install the decoder for me. It saves me time so I can move on to another project.
The extended LED wire gives Jon some play in the installation of the wires to the decoder.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081348.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081348.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081402.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081402.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081417.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081417.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081438.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081438.jpeg)
In the picture above you can see the cab curtains prior to the final weathering process.
Here is a look at the curtains after the weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217125002.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217124949.jpeg)
More in a few.
I've always wanted the engineer to be leaning out the cab window. On this one, I made the engineer lean out to see what he can.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081456.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081456.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081508.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217081508.jpeg)
More in a few.
Today I wrapped the loco in bubble wrap and sent it to Jon. The Judge is personally taking it to Jon. Jon lives about 25 miles north of the Orlando area.
I'll be getting it back in a few days and I'll do a video of the Erie loco on the A&S RR when she returns.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217125015.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220217125015.jpeg)
After I test the sound and tweak it a little for Frank, I'll do a final paint touch up and add just a little more weathering.
Thanks for following along on this adventure.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Another beautiful job my friend. Looks like it was done twenty years ago. Question are you going to include the time track spent on the sound/decoder as well since it's part of what the main focus of the build was?
Frank- Chicken! ha. Don't worry about Tom, is a trooper (quite literally) ha. Besides I love and respect Tom enough to give him a twist because what else does one do to a modeling god when everything he touches is damn near perfect. ha.
Hey teach, I'm all eyes when the movie comes out. Can't wait to see it. I got the popcorn and diet pepsi ready... Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on February 22, 2017, 01:37:03 PM
Tom,
Another beautiful job my friend. Looks like it was done twenty years ago. Question are you going to include the time track spent on the sound/decoder as well since it's part of what the main focus of the build was?
Frank- Chicken! ha. Don't worry about Tom, is a trooper (quite literally) ha. Besides I love and respect Tom enough to give him a twist because what else does one do to a modeling god when everything he touches is damn near perfect. ha.
Hey teach, I'm all eyes when the movie comes out. Can't wait to see it. I got the popcorn and diet pepsi ready... Thanx Thom...
Thommy,
Yes, the decoder time will be added to the build thread.
I do appreciate the really wonderful compliment, but I must say I'm no ways near as good as you. You may walk on water but I certainly don't.
I love having you as a friend. Its great that we know what all goes into one of these repairs and or paint jobs. The general public gets a brass loco and wants it painted for next to nothing. The problem is why pay for a paint job if the loco doesn't run well. Now you have a painting bill plus the repair.
One can argue that the cost is over the top. However, its not just the skill to paint the loco. You need to take it apart, put it back together and it also requires the knowledge, tools, and mostly the ability to complete the task.
I'll just sum it all up here in these few words.
"If it is so easy, then why aren't there a thousand guys doing it. What we do now or I did then is a talent most don't have. This is why our time is valuable. We have the skill, knowledge, talent and tools to get it done."
Again, Thommy, thank you so very much for the support and sincere compliment.
Tom ;D
It looks great Tom! I'll be watching for the movie too.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 22, 2017, 06:06:54 PM
It looks great Tom! I'll be watching for the movie too.
John,
Thank you very much. I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom,
Nice job, I always enjoy your posts on repairing brass locomotives. I will know where to look for help when I get around to it.
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
Quote from: sdrees on February 22, 2017, 08:41:40 PM
Hi Tom,
Nice job, I always enjoy your posts on repairing brass locomotives. I will know where to look for help when I get around to it.
Steve,
Okay, always willing to help out. Here is your round tuit. Now, get started. ;D ;D ;D
Thank for following and I'm happy you enjoy my brass threads.
Tom 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230217141111.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230217141111.jpeg)
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2017, 08:54:41 AM
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
Greg,
Thank you, very much appreciated. Thanks for checking in and posting a comment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2017, 08:54:41 AM
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
I will give you another Atta Boy as payment for your tutorial.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on February 23, 2017, 07:16:35 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2017, 08:54:41 AM
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
I will give you another Atta Boy as payment for your tutorial.
Jim
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCv-hcq-E2cP-C_kEwtCqbTKfW5gMm6I3Eea9dyWxIFUSRnTwOEQ)
Hi Tom,
I must be living under a rock...I just saw this thread. Wow! What beautiful work on this engine! It certainly takes a number of skills rolled into one to perform at this level. Thanks for posting all of these progress photos.
Hi Tom:
Very well done indeed. Take me back to the days when I used to paint and repair locomotive. That was before I got started on structures.
Karl
Karl,
You use too paint and repair locomotives, Wow! That's cool. I never knew that about you. Well if they're anything like what you do now then they must have been pretty nice jobs back then. Perhaps you could give a guy in Florida I know some pointers, he could sure use some, especially on marker lights. He had surgery lately and doesn't work on his layout anymore. I bet he'd might find painting/repairing old crappy engines just might be his forte'. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: jimmillho on February 23, 2017, 07:16:35 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2017, 08:54:41 AM
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
I will give you another Atta Boy as payment for your tutorial.
Jim
Jim,
Thanks, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on February 23, 2017, 11:00:21 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on February 23, 2017, 07:16:35 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2017, 08:54:41 AM
It's all the little details that make the difference between standard and outstanding.....atta boy Tom. 8)
I will give you another Atta Boy as payment for your tutorial.
Jim
Donato,
I always appreciate your support and "Atta Boys".
Tom ;D
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCv-hcq-E2cP-C_kEwtCqbTKfW5gMm6I3Eea9dyWxIFUSRnTwOEQ) (https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCv-hcq-E2cP-C_kEwtCqbTKfW5gMm6I3Eea9dyWxIFUSRnTwOEQ)
Quote from: MAP on February 28, 2017, 04:51:53 AM
Hi Tom,
I must be living under a rock...I just saw this thread. Wow! What beautiful work on this engine! It certainly takes a number of skills rolled into one to perform at this level. Thanks for posting all of these progress photos.
Mark,
No problem, I've been under a boulder for the past few months. Happy you found the thread and stopped in to post a comment. I appreciate you following the repair.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on February 28, 2017, 07:40:57 AM
Hi Tom:
Very well done indeed. Take me back to the days when I used to paint and repair locomotive. That was before I got started on structures.
Karl
Karl,
Happy to hear you liked the fix for Frank. Also, happy to hear you are one of a few that did this type of work. You know what all goes into the brass repairs and painting.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on February 28, 2017, 10:03:26 AM
Karl,
You use too paint and repair locomotives, Wow! That's cool. I never knew that about you. Well if they're anything like what you do now then they must have been pretty nice jobs back then. Perhaps you could give a guy in Florida I know some pointers, he could sure use some, especially on marker lights. He had surgery lately and doesn't work on his layout anymore. I bet he'd might find painting/repairing old crappy engines just might be his forte'. Thanx Thom...
Karl,
Don't even listen to khaki pants for he knows not of what he speaks! ;D ;D
I don't know it all as Khaki seems to think, but I know I don't need any more pointers. I know all I need to get by and then just a little more to get into trouble.
Khaki is very generous of my time but he was just saying last night how he wanted a pro-bono repair and paint job to work on.
I'll see if I can get him one.
Tom ;D
Up date on the Erie Berkshire.
The TCS WOW decoder is now installed and the loco sounds great.
I'll be doing a video on it and posting the video on Saturday afternoon. Yes, this Saturday. I need to make a few adjustments and add the rear marker jewels.
Until then.
Tom
Tom,
Hope you're backing up/archiving all of your posts. :) :)
Quote from: BandOGuy on February 28, 2017, 01:02:37 PM
Tom,
Hope you're backing up/archiving all of your posts. :) :)
Chip,
I will be this weekend so let's hope the server doesn't crash until then.
Tom ;D
Can't wait to hear the Erie and the Hudson with the new sound this Saturday. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 28, 2017, 12:49:45 PM
Quote from: tct855 on February 28, 2017, 10:03:26 AM
Karl,
You use too paint and repair locomotives, Wow! That's cool. I never knew that about you. Well if they're anything like what you do now then they must have been pretty nice jobs back then. Perhaps you could give a guy in Florida I know some pointers, he could sure use some, especially on marker lights. He had surgery lately and doesn't work on his layout anymore. I bet he'd might find painting/repairing old crappy engines just might be his forte'. Thanx Thom...
Karl,
Don't even listen to khaki pants for he knows not of what he speaks! ;D ;D
I don't know it all as Khaki seems to think, but I know I don't need any more pointers. I know all I need to get by and then just a little more to get into trouble.
Khaki is very generous of my time but he was just saying last night how he wanted a pro-bono repair and paint job to work on.
I'll see if I can get him one.
Tom ;D
Tom,
ha, you are a funny man! ha. I'm laughing so hard, I got to pee. ha. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 28, 2017, 02:11:58 PM
Can't wait to hear the Erie and the Hudson with the new sound this Saturday. :)
Saturday will be a fun day for sure.
Tom ;D
Almost four years ago, on a forum long long ago, I did a thread on a brass loco that needed repairs and paint. It was on the old forum.
There seems to be an interest in reworking, repairing and repainting old brass on this forum.
If a few people are interested, I'll redo it on this thread.
Let me know here.
Tom ;D
I could send you a brass loco or two to tune/paint/install sound if you want to do a new thread. ;D ;D ;D
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 28, 2017, 07:45:39 PM
I could send you a brass loco or two to tune/paint/install sound if you want to do a new thread. ;D ;D ;D
Jeff
Me too. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jim
Hi Tom,
Yes, I am interested in you redoing your post on repairing, painting, old brass locomotives.
I'd be up for it too
Tom:
I'm very interested in your tutorial on repairing and repainting brass locomotives. :) 8) What works for HO scale works equally as well for N Scale. I have several N scale steamers that have to be repaired. I finished two, but there are a few others that need some attention.
Stay cool and run steam.......... 8) 8)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 28, 2017, 07:45:39 PM
I could send you a brass loco or two to tune/paint/install sound if you want to do a new thread. ;D ;D ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
Yes, you could but I'm retired and only do my own stuff now. If I weren't building an empire of my own I'd probably take you up on the offer.
However, you have a better guy than me helping you now.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 28, 2017, 08:39:50 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 28, 2017, 07:45:39 PM
I could send you a brass loco or two to tune/paint/install sound if you want to do a new thread. ;D ;D ;D
Jeff
Me too. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jim
Jim,
You know the drill sir.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on February 28, 2017, 08:39:50 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 28, 2017, 07:45:39 PM
I could send you a brass loco or two to tune/paint/install sound if you want to do a new thread. ;D ;D ;D
Jeff
Me too. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jim
Butty Jim,
You know the drill sir.
Tom ;D
Steve, Andy and Bob,
You got it. I'll start it later this afternoon or tomorrow.
Tom ;D
I have four videos to show ya'll of Frank's Erie S-4 Class Berkshire.
I'd like to discuss painting for a bit first. I was talking to Thom Driggers, tct855, concerning the color of locos. We both agreed that neither of us ever, ever painted a loco strictly black.
If the loco is black, you loose many of the details on the loco. Through the years, I've painted many different shades of black for customers. However, I can up with one that 98% of my customers liked. I called it Langford Engine Black.
A dark shade of gray, that looks black, will show details on the loco better.
For Scalecoat it is 14 parts Loco Black, 2 parts White and 4/5 parts Thinner and mixed very well. Now you know the paint formula I kept secret for years.
Never, and I mean never, ask your painter to paint the loco black. This is what I did with my customers, I simply said, "No problem, and then painted the brass with my Langford Engine Black" which is actually a very dark gray that looks black.
Another way to change the color is by adding a certain finish coat. I had four different finish coats I used depending what the customer "thought" they wanted. Flat Finish will give the loco a lighter color gray look, Satin Finish, Semi-Gloss and Gloss. Each coat darkens the color as you go from Flat to Gloss.
The TCS WOW sound decoder was installed and programmed for Franks's Eire S-4 Berkshire. Add 2.5 more hours to the price.
ACL 1504 - 21.75 hrs. @ 25.00 = $543.75
Unknown Guy - 21.75 hrs. @ 35.00 = $761.25
Derrell(Darryl) - 21.75 hrs. @ 45.00 = $978.75
Steve - 21.75 hrs. @ 55.00 = $1196.25
I've been misspelling Derrell's name for many years.
Videos after a Diet Pepsi break.
Erie S-4 Class Berkshire, #3349, approaches the Suwannee River Basin area. The engineer signals for the crossing at the lone Happy Hut prior to crossing the bascule bridge and the Suwannee River.
Since the loco wasn't on home rails, the Atlantic and Southern Mgmt. required the loco to have A&S RR crew members. Engineer Eaton at the throttle, Fireman DeMayo and yours truly on the camera. No idea who was in the caboose. The A&S had to lease an ACL caboose.
[/color]
All is well as the loco enters the Suwannee River Basin Curve. Engineer Eaton is advised by Fireman DeMayo that there is an unknown obstruction on the tracks ahead. Eaton immediately threw the brake lever. He loves to block crossing as all good engineers do.
As the curve was to the left, Engineer Eaton couldn't see the obstruction.
Look how smooth Engineer Eaton starts this loco.
[/color]
Eaton eases the S-4 around Eaton's Curve, yes he is related to the Crackers living on hill at the curve. He crosses the bridge and signals for the crossings at West Tahope.
You can hear another steamer taking on coal and a pair of Seaboard Geeps waiting to enter the mainline.
[/color]
Tom,
I just happen to turn on the compooter and jump on the forum and saw 3, count'em 3 really nice, realistic and down right fun videos of an well maintained steam hard at work on that beautiful layout.
Frank's engine looks and sounds and runs awesome! Frank will be totally happy running that engine for Lou when he comes to film his layout.
Nice job Tom! Thanx Thom...
I was curious as to how many freight cars the S-4 Berkshire would pull up the Ovalix. The Ovalix grade is 1 percent.
The train consists of 18 tankers and 1 brass caboose.
Engineer Eaton stated he never had to raise the speed above 12 mph. the entire trip.
[/color]
Ovalix?
Tom, that's the biggest helix I've ever seen! I actually started the video and got thirsty, so I went down stairs and made a glass of ovaltine and came back to see the train just exiting the Ovalix. Wow! it's really cool ha. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on March 04, 2017, 04:21:52 PM
Ovalix?
Tom, that's the biggest helix I've ever seen! I actually started the video and got thirsty, so I went down stairs and made a glass of ovaltine and came back to see the train just exiting the Ovalix. Wow! it's really cool ha. Thanx Thom...
Thommy,
Yes, Ovalix. It is in the shape of an oval helix, so I call it an Ovalix. It is 26 ft. for every loop and raises 3.25 inches making it a 1 degree incline.
Thanks for checking in and for the compliment on the videos.
I just talked to Frank and he is working under the layout. He'll check them out when he comes up for air.
Tom ;D
Words do not express my gratitude and appreciation for such a wonderful job on my locomotive. FABULOUS and a bunch of other adjectives. Now, as I ponder scenery completion on a major portion of my layout, I need to figure how and where to photograph this beautiful engine on the layout. This is the creme de la creme. Thank you very, very much my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on March 04, 2017, 06:07:40 PM
Words do not express my gratitude and appreciation for such a wonderful job on my locomotive. FABULOUS and a bunch of other adjectives. Now, as I ponder scenery completion on a major portion of my layout, I need to figure how and where to photograph this beautiful engine on the layout. This is the creme de la creme. Thank you very, very much my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
My pleasure my friend, my pleasure. Your sincere compliment is very much appreciated.
It was fun but I have just a few more things to do. More pictures and a possibly another video later in the week.
Tom ;D
Hi Frank.....I really enjoyed listening to your loco run yesterday and chatting with you.....hope our little fun on the phone didn't give you a coronary. ;D
Great looking and sounding loco! Impressive tank car train as well.
Jeff
Terrific videos and restoration of Frank's engine. Jim
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 05, 2017, 11:21:09 AM
Great looking and sounding loco! Impressive tank car train as well.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you for the compliment and for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jrmueller on March 05, 2017, 11:37:47 AM
Terrific videos and restoration of Frank's engine. Jim
Thanks Jim, much appreciate you following along. Glad you enjoyed the videos, it was fun putting them together.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Your engineer and fireman did a marvelous job with running my engine. Please let them know that they are welcome to perform the same functions on my railroad once the engine has been transferred to my humble railroad. You have a fine crew with the judge and Greg. Keep up the fine work and i look forward to receiving the engine once you have completed final your final inspection.
It is a beauty and I look forward to seeing it run on the Morristown & Erie - Western Division. I guess I will have to reciprocate with a video or two. I just love a challenge. Thanks again for all your fine work.
All the best,
Frank / Erieman [size=78%] [/size]
Very nice Tom and crew! The videos and locomotive look great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Quote from: Erieman on March 05, 2017, 11:53:05 PM
Tom,
Your engineer and fireman did a marvelous job with running my engine. Please let them know that they are welcome to perform the same functions on my railroad once the engine has been transferred to my humble railroad. You have a fine crew with the judge and Greg. Keep up the fine work and i look forward to receiving the engine once you have completed final your final inspection.
It is a beauty and I look forward to seeing it run on the Morristown & Erie - Western Division. I guess I will have to reciprocate with a video or two. I just love a challenge. Thanks again for all your fine work.
All the best,
Frank / Erieman [size=78%] [/size]
Frank,
The Erie S-4 Berkshire should be on the way to AZ in less than two weeks. I look forward to seeing it on home rails.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on March 06, 2017, 01:58:28 PM
Very nice Tom and crew! The videos and locomotive look great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
John,
Thanks so much for stopping by. The videos and sounded loco back it look real. And, you are welcome.
Tom ;D
Frank's Erie Berkshire is now finished.
I got Frank a great price on a TCS WOW decoder, $87.00 and change. The retail is around $130.00. I paid a friend $50.00 to install the decoder and new speaker. Yes, I could have done it myself but got Frank's permission for the extra expenduture.
Anyway, I found some old Roundhouse (MDC) red marker jewels and installed them in the tender markers. No photo here.
I was running a track test run with the loco and noticed the trailing truck was't rolling smoothly. And, it was also the cause of a very minor intermittent short.
The trailing truck has an ash pan on top of the truck. I've never seen this on any other brass loco but it is really a very nice addition.
In the photo below, you can see the ash pan on the truck. I'm showing the side so you can get an idea of another adjustment I found necessary to make.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180317160006.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180317160006.jpeg)
The area on the ash pan just above the front journal box was to high. It came to a rounded point and it was necessary to shave this down so it didn't touch the bottom of the firebox. You can see where I smoothed out the angle of the top of the ash pan.
Also, the trailing truck had a tendency to "drift", meaning the front wheels sometimes floated above the rails.
I solved this problem by adding some weight to the inside of the trailing truck.
I used a product called "Low Temp or Flow Temp" from Walthers. I used the soldering iron to melt some off the block and placed it in the ash pan. I then used the soldering iron and melted it in place as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180317160020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180317160020.jpeg)
Whats great about this product is that it melts and doesn't get so hot that it burns the paint. I've added this to many of my new loco paint jobs (inside the boilers) and it doesn't affect the new paint. However, you can only use it on the loco AFTER you have finished baking the loco paint.
More in a few.
Tom,
Man! you always find the rarest things (ash pan). I never seen one on any model I've ever seen or done. That's cool. The metal you speak of is called (cerribin) invented by NASA (like so many other things). It's becoming harder to find because of the price of casting metals have gone up so darn high.
I buy them is 3 pound brick ingots in a 1/2 dozen count. Which last me about 5 years on average. I use it in any brass piece that needs to be weighted or balanced. Even diesels. You're right after the model is finished and you test run it and find it needs tweaking here or there (like lead or trailing trucks). It does wonders.
I find it funny that you and I lived in the same state for decades and did the same type of modeling, never met until a couple years ago and yet still manage to do the same practices. spooky! ha.
Thanx Thom...
I also added some very light weathering in places on the loco. This last little push added an additional 1.25 hours to the model repair cost.
ACL1504 - 23.00 hours @ $25.00 = $575.00
Unknown Guy - 23.00 hours @ $35.00 = $805.00
Darryl - 23.00 hours @ $45.00 = $1,035.00
Steven - 23.00 hours @ $55.00 = $1,265.00
Now add the decoder price $87.00 and speaker price $12.50 to the totals above.
This gives everyone a really good idea of the cost of maintaining a brass loco is you want it to run smoothly, look realistic and sound excellent as well.
Brass model steam locomotives are costly to maintain and repair, just like the prototypes were.
I listed me at $25.00 per hour but would never do any work for less than $45.00 hour. Again, this was just to show everyone that you just don't get a job like this for nothing.
I appreciate all who followed on this adventure.
Tom ;D
Now as promised, here is a short video of the Erie Berkshire after taking water and pulling the reefers. When the loco starts, we had the throttle set a 1MPH! Turn up your speakers.
I love the sound of the lonesome wailing whistle.
[/color]
Tom,
Yeah baby! Toot Toot! ha. Awesome video "T". Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on March 18, 2017, 05:50:08 PM
Tom,
Man! you always find the rarest things (ash pan). I never seen one on any model I've ever seen or done. That's cool. The metal you speak of is called (cerribin) invented by NASA (like so many other things). It's becoming harder to find because of the price of casting metals have gone up so darn high.
I buy them is 3 pound brick ingots in a 1/2 dozen count. Which last me about 5 years on average. I use it in any brass piece that needs to be weighted or balanced. Even diesels. You're right after the model is finished and you test run it and find it needs tweaking here or there (like lead or trailing trucks). It does wonders.
I find it funny that you and I lived in the same state for decades and did the same type of modeling, never met until a couple years ago and yet still manage to do the same practices. spooky! ha.
Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Yes, we did live in the same state but you lived about 300+ miles from me in Orlando. Also, your were in your Momma's womb when I was 17 years of age and full of myself.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on March 18, 2017, 05:53:37 PM
Tom,
Yeah baby! Toot Toot! ha. Awesome video "T". Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I believe the videos give us a whole new perspective of what we are doing on our threads.
Toot, Toot!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 18, 2017, 05:57:25 PM
Quote from: tct855 on March 18, 2017, 05:53:37 PM
Tom,
Yeah baby! Toot Toot! ha. Awesome video "T". Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I believe the videos give us a whole new perspective of what we are doing on our threads.
Toot, Toot!
Tom ;D
Amen Brother! We'll have to start saying "We like videos" in lieu of pictures. ha. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on March 18, 2017, 06:04:41 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 18, 2017, 05:57:25 PM
Quote from: tct855 on March 18, 2017, 05:53:37 PM
Tom,
Yeah baby! Toot Toot! ha. Awesome video "T". Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I believe the videos give us a whole new perspective of what we are doing on our threads.
Toot, Toot!
Tom ;D
Amen Brother! We'll have to start saying "We like videos" in lieu of pictures. ha. Thanx Thom...
Yepper, over and out. Oh, wait, I may as well include Frank's Berkshire doing the initial test run on the new track around Baker's Curve.
[/color]
That is way too cool!
Nice!
That is a great whistle. Thanks for posting the videos, and nice work on the 2-8-4. You'd better hold off on sending it to Frank, he has a lot of work to do on his layout yet, and once he gets the loco, he'll be playing with it instead of working. ;D
Jeff
Tom,
Simply marvelous job, my friend. The last couple of days have been quite hectic, non train related work. Since it has gotten very hot so soon, I had to have my old swamp coolers replaced. I did not do the work, but there was plenty still to do. With that project complete, i can now back to seeing all your fine work in this thread. Dr. Jeff is almost right. With 49 days and counting until Lou Sassi arrives, i am under the gun to complete, as best I can, a large section of my layout and having the engine back in its stall on my layout might really slow me down (NOT). I am really looking forward to seeing that beauty run on the M&E. It will be prominent in many of the layout photos, mark my word. Once this layout shoot is over,I will be working on "your project". Thank you for all your hard work and I hope it runs as well on the M&E. And yes, I will take video of it in its new home.
Frank / Erieman
Hi Tom,
I want to tell you what a great job you have done with this Berkie. Looks, runs, and sounds fabulous.
Being in the industry, I especially appreciate the reality check you've offered on what it actually takes - and therefore may cost - to make an engine turn out as this one.
We almost take for granted what we see magazines, on line photos and videos, or during a layout tour and we perhaps appreciate the dedication that it takes to make these things as beautiful as they are; somehow it's almost magical! But it is NOT magic. It is Work. For those who tinker with their own stuff they likely have a better understanding of that work but even that does not make clear what it is like to do this for a living.
I like to distill things down to their most basic element (first principle to solving a problem - remember math?). "Model Railroader" use to have a slogan on their cover - "Model Railroading is Fun". I think it would be more precise to say - Model Railroading is Entertainment. Is it not? You must pay the utility bill. You do not have to buy a new brass engine.
For some of us Model Railroading is not a hobby - we do it in order to pay the utility bill. No one can describe how much of a "game changer" that is. I've heard many a story - even from some of the best (Kelley Morris for instance) that once you make model railroading your job you no longer have a hobby. While I've found that isn't quite true - I still try to do the hobby - I certainly now understand the dynamics. I can tell you, at the end of the day, that the last thing I want to do is build a model kit or lay any track. I find that there is a huge amount of sacrifice even tho I very much enjoy my "day job" (I get to play with other people's stuff!)
And if I may be so bold as to add the very concept of the Value of Time; if you are not happy with my work I can refund you the money you paid, but no one, anywhere, can EVER refund to me a single second of the time it took me to do that work. What then is the real value of Time? And what about the skills I've acquired over the years? Is it not true that when you hire me to do your work, that you are using my time because either your time is simply not available or your own assessment of your skills suggests you might be wasting your time if you do the work yourself?
I hear this very often; "I'm glad I found you - I can't find anyone who can do this work for me." I wonder why that is...?
Thank you for including me in your comparison
Derrell (aka Daryl)
"Model locomotives are little machines" - 7th Street Shops
Derrell,
First, a big welcome to the forum. And, thank you for the support on Frank's Erie.
I started painting brass locos, mainly steam, to supplement my rookie law enforcement salary. Not only did it pay many bills it was also fun. I placed a few adds for custom/painting detailing in Model Railroader in the early 1980's. The response to the adds were more than I expected.
I soon realized my hobby had become a business. I wanted to keep it a hobby and only painted for those in the Central Florida and Tampa area.
What we do, or I did, and you and Thom continue to do, is an art that very few people have the ability to do. This is where time is important. As you said, you can return the money but they can't return your time.
Well, I could go on and on concerning this subject.
I agree with every thing you mentioned.
My thread was to show everyone what it takes and mostly how long it takes to do just a few additional details and tweaking of a brass steam loco. It isn't cheap but then neither is going to the Dentist.
Again, Daryl, thank you for the compliment, I appreciate it.
Tom ;D
beautiful work...that's some really convincing sound!!
John
Quote from: MartyO on March 18, 2017, 10:22:03 PM
That is way too cool!
Marty,
Thank you for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 19, 2017, 07:51:47 AM
That is a great whistle. Thanks for posting the videos, and nice work on the 2-8-4. You'd better hold off on sending it to Frank, he has a lot of work to do on his layout yet, and once he gets the loco, he'll be playing with it instead of working. ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you for the kind words on the loco fix. I just got off the phone with Frank and told him I didn't want to send it back. ;D ;D ;D
The whistle is great. It's a WOW sound diesel and when I get back into the whistle menu, I'll let you know which one it is.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on March 19, 2017, 10:56:29 AM
Tom,
Simply marvelous job, my friend. The last couple of days have been quite hectic, non train related work. Since it has gotten very hot so soon, I had to have my old swamp coolers replaced. I did not do the work, but there was plenty still to do. With that project complete, i can now back to seeing all your fine work in this thread. Dr. Jeff is almost right. With 49 days and counting until Lou Sassi arrives, i am under the gun to complete, as best I can, a large section of my layout and having the engine back in its stall on my layout might really slow me down (NOT). I am really looking forward to seeing that beauty run on the M&E. It will be prominent in many of the layout photos, mark my word. Once this layout shoot is over,I will be working on "your project". Thank you for all your hard work and I hope it runs as well on the M&E. And yes, I will take video of it in its new home.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
It was fun working on the loco but honestly I'm happy the work is done. Now I can get to working on the layout as the NMRA is just around the corner.
I really don't want to send it back and the Judge wanted me to tell you it fell off the layout and got redecaled for the Atlantic and Southern RR. ;D ;D
I explained to the Judge that kind of deception is know as Grand Theft!
Anyway, glad you like it. I have a little touch up to do after seeing the video. I'll get it in the mail Monday, March 27.
Your long hours on the M&E are certainly paying off.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on March 19, 2017, 01:32:06 PM
beautiful work...that's some really convincing sound!!
John
John,
Thank you, much appreciated. The TCS WOW sound is wonderful and sounds fantastic in this one.
Tom ;D
Good Evening All,
The mailman bought Christmas to the Morristown & Erie Railroad - Western Division, last week. Oh Happy Day. ACL1504 has done a magnificent job on this engine. The sound is magnificent as Tom said in his post. Because of time being spent on the railroad for the upcoming photo shoot, I have not run the engine very much. My bad. I have a few issues that appear track related that I will have to address in the next couple of weeks. This is one beautiful engine and my personal THANK YOU to Tom. Sorry Judge, the engine is staying on my layout, but you are most welcome to come to Arizona and run it.
Forgot to post the picture> Here you go, Engine #3349 in Ironia with a consist of reefers.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
That engineer must be hanging out of the cab looking for the highball so he can really work that throttle.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 07, 2017, 08:42:32 AM
Frank,
That engineer must be hanging out of the cab looking for the highball so he can really work that throttle.
Jerry,
I like what Tom has done with the engineer leaning out of the cab. Now the trick is to get some great action pictures with the engine. Here is another new one with the engineer checking the signal. Now if I only had the computer program that would let me add smoke and cylinder steam, this would be an awesome scene. More awesome than it is already.
Frank / Erieman
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Sounds like you have kept the roundhouse foreman busy rebuilding that locomotive this year. The Erie engineer seems to be pleased now that it's back to work on the mainline !
Tommy
Frank,
Your wonderful layout sure makes the Erie Berkshire look good. Great picture of the loco and track work.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 09, 2017, 11:22:20 AM
Frank,
Your wonderful layout sure makes the Erie Berkshire look good. Great picture of the loco and track work.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Glad to see that you are up and about, my friend. Hope the germ has left your body. Thank you for the kind words on the photo. A real good friend of mine painted the locomotive. I just did the scenery. I am working with my computer to "draw in" steam and smoke to the same photo. Results so far have not been encouraging, but I'm tenacious, so stay tuned.
Have a great weekend and play with trains.
Frank / Erieman
This past April I repaired and painted the brass Erie loco for Frank.
Over the past few months we have been discussing how the loco has been running/performing. Franks tells me that for no reason the loco stops on straight track and at times the TCS WOW sound cuts off.
He also said the tender wheels often fall out of the journals.
I now have the loco and have done some extensive testing.
The loco never stopped running on my layout but often the WOW sound would go out. By this I mean the chuff sound goes out but I still have control of the whistle, bell and etc. This indicates to me the decoder is the issue. It was installed within the past 10 months and during that time I had several other decoders go bad.
This one will be sent back to TCS WOW for an upgrade/replacement.
In reference to the tender wheel coming out of the journals and side frames. This was an easy fix.
The tiny screw, as in very small, like jeweler screw small, backed out of the side frame. This allowed the side frame to widen allowing the tender wheel to fall out.
In the photo below, you can see the small screw between the top two tender wheels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017145712.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017145712.jpeg)
I was very surprised the screw didn't fall out and of course get lost. It was hanging on by the threads, literally.
Continued in a few.
The side frame separated from the side frame bracket as shown in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017145727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017145727.jpeg)
The wheels were cleaned and replaced. The small screw was tightened and the loco is back on the track. Well, it will be after the new decoder is installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017151416.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131017151416.jpeg)
I'll update the thread when the new decoder is installed.
Tom
ACL 1504,
Nice repair & troubleshoot job Tom. I could see the track pit crew out on the rails jacking and repairing the tender wheels whilst keeping up the steam in the boiler to stay as close to schedule. ;D It's a good thing Mr. Baker didn't pull out his structure building tools on this beautiful engine. KP-out...
Tom....
The TCS service guy is Norm Stensel. Talk to him directly and get him up to speed.
He has always been most helpful to me.
see ya
Bob
Bob,
Norm retired several months ago. I've spoken to the new guy and he is even faster than Norm was.
Thanks for stopping by.
Tom ;D
Tom...
I hate starting over with a new guy. They have no idea who you are or what you might already know about their products.
see ya
Bob
Bob,
The new tech guy at TCS WOW is Mike. He is wonderful and very patient with us.
Tom ;D
While in Florida last week, my wife and I paid a visit to ACL 1504 and his lovely wife Pam. Since we were staying in Panama City Beach for the week, it was a short drive to Orlando and to visit with Tom, check out Tom's beautiful layout ( and I do mean beautiful) and pick up my locomotives. What a treat. Two days later and 1500 plus miles, the engines are residing on the home layout. The first engine that I gave Tom turned out to be a dog. As much time as Tom spent on it, it will be assigned the engine house duty. Don't get me wrong, the paint job is first class, but the mechanical is not and probably never was any good. The second engine is an Erie 2-8-4 and it is a beauty, both in running and paint. It to was plagued with a few problems, but the magician fixed them. Apparently the dcc board was defective, but that was corrected in short order. For those of you that have brass, you know that they are somewhat finicky. I can't blame the engine, but I have discovered a few minor track or scenery problems. I fixed one problem quickly. The trailing truck kept lifting off the track at a forward facing on a curve switch. After checking the track with a gauge, I found the track to ever so slightly out of gauge. I installed a sleeper rail on the inside and Voila, everything stays on the track. There is a scenery interference on a curve that needs to be fixed and that will be a challenge. There are a few other minor track interference's that will be equally easy to fix. These to will pass as I enjoy the sound and look at this wonderful, beautiful engine. It looks great and sounds great.
A special thanks to TOM for all his work on these two engines. I'll be taking and posting some pics soon.
Frank / Erieman