Advertise Here - SUPPORT TMF

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Keep it Rusty

Pages: [1] 2
Seeking Kit... / Grandt Line — Porter 8 Ton 0-4-0 Saddle Tank (#93065)
« on: September 11, 2021, 06:32:40 PM »
Looking for this particular loco in O-Scale.


Seeking Kit... / Seeking Rail Scale Miniatures - Vogue Furniture
« on: August 25, 2021, 04:57:23 PM »
Per title. Thanks!

Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Preiser quality…
« on: August 24, 2021, 09:45:02 AM »
I’m a huge fan of Preiser. I think they make excellent figures.

But what gives about the quality of them these days?

Check out the attached. One is the ad, the other is the real photo from Amazon. Take the figure in the apron. The paint job is leagues apart, that’s one thing, but then look at the gap between his arms. In the Amazon photo it’s completely filled in (presumably during the molding phase).

Disappointed to see this. It sucks all the life and reality from them that made Preiser stand out. And it only takes a second to see the quality they were once putting out when you look at the F&SM…

Selling Kit... / 💵 FSM Kit Sale! 💵
« on: July 26, 2021, 01:31:43 PM »
Westside Auto - $280
Bartholow Coal Company - $225
I.M Dunn - $240
Elijah Roth & Sons  - $280
Skinner’s Row - $350
Dexter’s Dead End - $310
Avram’s Baking Co - $250
Pile Driver (Jewel Series) - $125

Elijah Roth & Sons  - $280 SOLD
Houligan’s Alley - $350 SOLD
Stuffy’s Brewing Co - $280 SOLD
Franklin Watchworks - $280 SOLD
Bailey’s Produce Co - $250 SOLD
Butcher’s Way - $250 SOLD
Cartwright’s Machine Shop SOLD
Yehudah’s Heating Co SOLD
Chester Rawlings SOLD
Oatman’s Mercantile SOLD
Sewall’s Foundry (castings have been painted) - $240 SOLD

All of these kits are in wonderful condition. Nevertheless, each will be double checked BEFORE payment and mailing.

Shipping to a US address will be approx $13-$15 for a single kit.

Scratchbuilding / The Flux Mill [Diorama]
« on: July 13, 2021, 11:49:52 AM »
Hey everyone.

In recent months I have been incredibly fortunate to find my blog sponsored by some very awesome and very talented manufacturers. I had one strict rule when this whirlwind started: to only be sponsored by folks I truly believed in and could honestly, hand-on-heart endorse. I would want only the same in return.

One of those sponsors is a company called FLUX. They are based out in Taiwan and offered me a once in a lifetime opportunity. They send me one of their laser cutters in return for a diorama (with a structure cut using the machine).

I obviously couldn't say no.

Whilst I waited for it to arrive, I ordered up a whole trough-load of materials (laser board, task board, clapboard, MDF... you name it) and then I educated myself on the design phase on the computer. I actually started out looking to learn AutoCAD but quickly gave up out of frustration. I'm to used to parametric design work, so I put more effort into learning Fusion360. After a week or so, I was at the races.

In some downtime at work, I finished up the design for the structure:

Even though Fusion360 isn't made for architectural work like this, I find it very productive. What's more, because it's parametric-based, that means I can later add new dimensions for a wall and the whole design updates with it. Nice.

As I settled on the design, a few days later the laser arrived. And what a machine!

Soon after the machine arrived I started dialing it all in. It took a while to get all the settings for the various materials, but once it's done it's done. And the proprietary software Flux offer makes it easy.

I got to cutting it all out and was done within 15 minutes.

Last night I got it all braced and did a dry-fit in the foam base I had also previously started. (Yes, this is going to be another elevation-change diorama. I had too much fun last time!)

So here is where I'm at. A wedge-shaped urban mill, sunk in the smoggy depths of the industrial district:

More soon!

Kit Building / Lamont Camera (FOS Scale) [Diorama]
« on: June 30, 2021, 09:40:19 PM »
I’ve been very busy with work lately, but here is a commission build of Doug’s awesome kit “Lamont Camera”

When I was approached to make this kit, I knew it would be a great opportunity to play with slopes and gradients. The rear wall of this kit provides an awesome opportunity to do something like this and I couldn’t resist.

The build was per instructions, changing a few things (like shingles instead of rolled roofing) and adding a few things (like the roof repair, which was created with spare strip wood and chipboard).

I also added a small garage, the stud work was laser cut (yes, I now own a laser — more soon!) and finished board-by-board. It was super fun to put together. The abandoned car inside was 3D-printed and heavily weathered to match using AK Interactive enamel washes.

The idea behind the build is a new owner has recently purchased the derelict business and has begun the restoration work.

Without further ado:

As always, more images here:

Seeking Kit... / Seeking Rolled Shingles
« on: June 23, 2021, 10:24:21 AM »
Campbell used to make 100ft rolls of them.

FSM kits shipped with them in every box.

You know the kind!

I’m officially out of my stock of them, and would love to know if any of you have a supply you don’t need or want. I’ll buy ‘em all!

Super Detailing / Make it Oily (O-Scale Machinery)
« on: May 06, 2021, 09:24:45 AM »
Thanks to an amazing deal I scored for a number of SierraWest O-Scale kits, I've been toying around in the dark side recently. Don't worry, I'm staying firmly planted in HO (waaaay too much invested), but I'm enjoying dipping my toe in the larger scale now and then.

One of the many things that whisked me away with these particular kits are the details originally from CHB Models. Then a thought took over.

What if we could produce high-end, complex details like those from CHB on 3D printers? All you’d need to do is separate the parts with enough experience to know they would not only print well but also construct well. Not forgetting, of course, access to a talented 3D artist (not me!). Well, I had both, so I commissioned a friend to prototype, in 3D, the original Brown & Sharpe Universal Miller machine that CHB produced.

After a few short days of back and forth, sculpting and cutting, we landed here:

Detailed as this 3D model is, some parts are easier to source than print. Like feed belts and coolant pipes (paper and brass rod). We broke down the machine into almost 25 separate pieces and then I scaled the machine for O-Scale and printed it using my custom high-res print settings on my brand new Elegoo Saturn. Everything printed extremely well.

In the construction, tiny details like the handles were the difficult to deal with but not impossible. In O-Scale a single handle measures around 2mm. Whilst the resin was stable, working with these small details takes time and a magnifier — but it’s all about the details and things like this make the machine POP with life so they are worth the effort.

In painting, I used a machine-green base, dark silver highlights, silver leaf “Rub N’ Buff” on top of that, and then weathered with AK Interactive enamels and oils including Engine Grime, Engine Oil and Axle Grease.

Apart from the the hydraulic hose (wire cable), the coolant pipe (.015 brass rod), the over-arm (.072 brass rod) and the feed belt (brown construction paper) everything you see here was 3D printed. Essentially, the entire machine.

I know the paint job isn’t the best, but the quality of the machine speaks for itself. Even those tiny handles came out looking perfect.

I'm already producing more machinery (not CHB) and may make some of them available for a limited run, should there be any interest. Let me know below!

eBay Crazies / Uhhhh.
« on: April 23, 2021, 08:04:07 PM »
Move over Red Hook Wharf, I just watched Bar Mills’ GRAVES ELEVATORS sell for $1000.00 US.

Lovely kit, but seriously!?

Scratchbuilding / FSM Interlocking Walls
« on: March 17, 2021, 08:58:02 PM »
After a lot of searching, and a lot of help from Bill over at RailroadKits, I have finally found the walls I’ve seen in a few of George’s builds on the F&SM.

The walls I’m talking about are the ones that make up this structure, for example:

Well, here they are:

It turns out they were never part of any FSM kit and were made for the F&SM only.

Well, you can now order them from RailroadKits. Just email Bill and tell him you want the interlocking walls he sent to “Rusty Robot”.

Enjoy your scratch builds!

Selling Kit... / Selling my 3D printer
« on: February 14, 2021, 11:09:30 AM »
Hi all.

Decided to upgrade my 3D printer to the next size up.

Therefore I’m selling my ANYCUBIC PHOTON for $125. Supplied with original box.

Every print you’ve seen from me on this forum has been produced by this printer, so you know what it’s capable of. I’m in two minds selling it, but I figure it deserves a home that will carry the torch.

Let me know if you’re interested!

Attached two photos of a brick wall I printed and painted using this printer!

Forum Contests / I.M. Giltay Corp - 2021 Build Challenge
« on: February 07, 2021, 12:39:54 PM »
After starting the Mizupo build a couple weeks ago, I quickly started another “pocket build” alongside it.

This one, however, is based upon a prototype of a building I had seen in the city of Minneapolis. It’s called Matt’s and here’s a photo:

What I particularly liked about this building was the roof cap. It struck me as having what I referred to as an “inverted mansard”. I knew that presented a decent challenge to build, so I set to work.

Initially, I pursued cutting the roof from chipboard. In the recent weeks I discovered a very cool app on Mac called “Unfolder” that takes a 3D object and, well… unfolds them. It flattens the shape into 2D so it can be printed and cut from any material. So, I designed the cap in Tinkercad and let Unfolder do its very quick work:

There is no doubt this would have been successful, but I was pressed for time. So, I cheated. there, I said it! I printed the shape on my 3D printer. It was a just fit for the build plate.

As the build was to be stucco, I cut some simple walls from 1/16 Basswood, braced them and assembled.

The join line on the print was from merging two separate prints due to a print error.

I got to applying the stucco. I used two separate techniques to achieve the look. First was with a can of Stone Effect rattle can Rustoleum. After a liberal coating, I then used Water Putty to vary the stucco so it’s not completely uniform. After dry, I painted it a light beige. As I waited, I made some signs and ads for the walls and applied them the next day.

The seam between the cap and wall is more noticeable than I would’ve liked, but I am happy with the result.

With the walls complete and partially weathered, I made the storefront. I used the prototype as reference once again.

The stone is textured foundation strip wood from KC’s Workshop. The walls were cut from scribed siding sheets from Northeastern Scale Lumber. I carefully painted and varied each board using a variety of acrylic paints and Hunterline stains.

Upon a dry fit, and looking at the prototype again, I realized there was one more thing I’d need to print. A storefront sign. I hopped back on Tinkercad and made this:

I then made a cap to fit around the storefront. After the print was done, I painted it a bronze color and added a Verdigris effect using a special effect paint.

I picked out some Tichy windows from my stash and painted them with an aged white applied with a sponge.

For the roof, I used a 50pt chipboard that I covered with black construction “tar paper”. I used the technique of spraying it with a grey primer, and lightly sanding and aging each strip before applying. I use 3M transfer tape on all my roofs to avoid messy glue situations. Once in place, I lifted various corners and added dirt and debris, weathering with pastel chalks to complete. I also added a stove pipe cut from brass tube.

With the building largely done, I turned my attention to the base. I knew I was going to make a diorama from it, so I cut a base from pink insulation foam (Home Depot stuff). I then used Hydrocal plaster and made a street. This was a simple as using masking tape to mask the appropriate area, apply the wet plaster, smooth out and wait to dry. Once hard, I used an xacto knife to scribe the expansion joints and cracks. I gave it a wash with Hunterline stain.

The sidewalk is from Bar Mills.

After I was happy with the street, painting the sidewalk in the process, I positioned and glued the building to the foam.

Once in place, I knew I wanted something else on the build to make it more whimsical. So, just like the Siekirk’s Seafood build, I made a little side structure from Clapboard and shingled roofing. Once stained, painted and weathered, it was glued in place. At this point, I added ground cover to this side of the diorama.

Ground Cover recipe:

1. Real dirt mix (right now I don’t have access to any dirt as it’s under about 4 feet of snow) so I used a store bought dirt from Scenery Express. I mix the dirt with ground up real leaves I collected in the Fall. I sprinkle this mix directly onto dry pink foam. After I’ve leveled the mix, pushing it up against the structure to make it appear sunk into the ground, I then use a dish soap water mix to wet the ground. I get it soaking. I then use scenery glue to fix it all in place. Before it dries, I immediately move to step two:

2. For the small shrubs, I use two colors of Woodland Scenics “Underbrush”. The taller grass tufts are from AK interactive, but these can be found at other suppliers. The tiny dots of green is Woodland Scenics coarse turf. All of these elements are pushed into the wet ground, so it can all dry together. Scenery glue takes many hours to dry so there’s plenty of time to work.

3. Once all dry, I vary the ground cover by adding growth to the sides of buildings and scatter trash, leaves etc…

I continued this method around the entire base. Althugh I didn’t require them on this base, larger shrubs can be made using fiber material from places like Woodland Scenics or Accurail. This fiber is then cut to size, soaked in matte medium and various turf sprinkled and added all over.

Looking at the diorama at this stage, I knew I wanted to vary to height and draw the eye, so I set out to make a power line pole.

For this I used 1/8 dowel I bought in a large pack at Hobby Lobby.

I cut this to length, then round the end using an emery board. After that, I run a fine tooth razor saw down the length of the dowel to add a wood grain effect. After removing any splinters, I give it two coats of Driftwood stain.

I then add my power line arm. Currently, I am using Italeri’s telephone pole kit. Even though it’s 1/35 scale, it seems to fit HO very well — at least in my opinion. The kit cost me $5. For the transformers, these were 3D printed from a design by Luke Towan. You can download that file for free from his website. Here’s my me of the finished poles:

I drilled an appropriate sized hole through the Hydrocal and fixed it in place. Adding a meter (FOS Scale casting) and weatherhead (actually a cut 1/35 gun accessory) to the building, I then used EZ line for the cabling.

After a few extra details (a casting or two, newspapers, streetlight, Preiser etc) the diorama was finished. It took approximately 15 hours on and off work. Here are the final photos:

As always, more can be found over on my blog here:

Thanks for following along!

Seeking Kit... / FAQ Dioramas book
« on: January 14, 2021, 07:21:50 PM »

Anyone have this and might be looking to move it on? It’s for a friend looking to save some pennies.

Seeking Kit... / Trains of Texas Casting
« on: January 09, 2021, 08:02:44 PM »
This is a long shot, but does anyone have a Trains of Texas brick wall mold (O Scale) as George often used on the F&SM?

If so, would anyone be interested in making a mold of one for me? I can pay, of course. Or maybe sell a casting?

Thanks in advance.

Off we go.

As of today, I’m starting up my 2021 Winter Build Challenge.

It’s Gordon Novelty Co from FOS Scale.

This building is becoming a seafood restaurant on my Rocky Point Harbor F&SM tribute.

It will stand in place of the “Izzy Fish Co” building, with this kit being chosen as it somewhat resembles that structure.

I have big plans for this kit, so I can’t wait to get started on my first build challenge!

More soon.

EDIT: uploading two of John/Tom’s photos of Izzy Fish for reference.

Pages: [1] 2
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal