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Topics - Keep it Rusty

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Super Detailing / Make it Oily (O-Scale Machinery)
« on: May 06, 2021, 09:24:45 AM »
Thanks to an amazing deal I scored for a number of SierraWest O-Scale kits, I've been toying around in the dark side recently. Don't worry, I'm staying firmly planted in HO (waaaay too much invested), but I'm enjoying dipping my toe in the larger scale now and then.

One of the many things that whisked me away with these particular kits are the details originally from CHB Models. Then a thought took over.

What if we could produce high-end, complex details like those from CHB on 3D printers? All you’d need to do is separate the parts with enough experience to know they would not only print well but also construct well. Not forgetting, of course, access to a talented 3D artist (not me!). Well, I had both, so I commissioned a friend to prototype, in 3D, the original Brown & Sharpe Universal Miller machine that CHB produced.

After a few short days of back and forth, sculpting and cutting, we landed here:

Detailed as this 3D model is, some parts are easier to source than print. Like feed belts and coolant pipes (paper and brass rod). We broke down the machine into almost 25 separate pieces and then I scaled the machine for O-Scale and printed it using my custom high-res print settings on my brand new Elegoo Saturn. Everything printed extremely well.

In the construction, tiny details like the handles were the difficult to deal with but not impossible. In O-Scale a single handle measures around 2mm. Whilst the resin was stable, working with these small details takes time and a magnifier — but it’s all about the details and things like this make the machine POP with life so they are worth the effort.

In painting, I used a machine-green base, dark silver highlights, silver leaf “Rub N’ Buff” on top of that, and then weathered with AK Interactive enamels and oils including Engine Grime, Engine Oil and Axle Grease.

Apart from the the hydraulic hose (wire cable), the coolant pipe (.015 brass rod), the over-arm (.072 brass rod) and the feed belt (brown construction paper) everything you see here was 3D printed. Essentially, the entire machine.

I know the paint job isn’t the best, but the quality of the machine speaks for itself. Even those tiny handles came out looking perfect.

I'm already producing more machinery (not CHB) and may make some of them available for a limited run, should there be any interest. Let me know below!

Selling Kit... / For Sale: SRMW Kits
« on: April 30, 2021, 12:21:43 PM »
Hi all.

Always going to ask here before turning to eBay. Selling the following SRMW kits as I’m in need of making room!

The Sayles Mill
Whitinsville Spinning Ring
Thorndike Mill
Rugg Manufacturing
Whitney & Bent Furniture (may have two kits for sale)

May also be selling:

Blackstone Paper Mill
Millett Creamery

Asking for $450 per lovely red box, shipping for $5 to US address.


Seeking Kit... / CHB Models (SierraWest Machinery)
« on: April 24, 2021, 02:39:16 PM »
CHB Models made some excellent O-scale machine shop details like lathes, vertical drills, miller’s etc...

SierraWest bought the company some time ago and I know Brett has future plans for the lineup. For now, they are out of production.

In the meantime, figured I’d ask if anyone has any of these in their totes?

eBay Crazies / Uhhhh.
« on: April 23, 2021, 08:04:07 PM »
Move over Red Hook Wharf, I just watched Bar Mills’ GRAVES ELEVATORS sell for $1000.00 US.

Lovely kit, but seriously!?

Scratchbuilding / FSM Interlocking Walls
« on: March 17, 2021, 08:58:02 PM »
After a lot of searching, and a lot of help from Bill over at RailroadKits, I have finally found the walls I’ve seen in a few of George’s builds on the F&SM.

The walls I’m talking about are the ones that make up this structure, for example:

Well, here they are:

It turns out they were never part of any FSM kit and were made for the F&SM only.

Well, you can now order them from RailroadKits. Just email Bill and tell him you want the interlocking walls he sent to “Rusty Robot”.

Enjoy your scratch builds!

Selling Kit... / Selling my 3D printer
« on: February 14, 2021, 11:09:30 AM »
Hi all.

Decided to upgrade my 3D printer to the next size up.

Therefore I’m selling my ANYCUBIC PHOTON for $125. Supplied with original box.

Every print you’ve seen from me on this forum has been produced by this printer, so you know what it’s capable of. I’m in two minds selling it, but I figure it deserves a home that will carry the torch.

Let me know if you’re interested!

Attached two photos of a brick wall I printed and painted using this printer!

Forum Contests / I.M. Giltay Corp - 2021 Build Challenge
« on: February 07, 2021, 12:39:54 PM »
After starting the Mizupo build a couple weeks ago, I quickly started another “pocket build” alongside it.

This one, however, is based upon a prototype of a building I had seen in the city of Minneapolis. It’s called Matt’s and here’s a photo:

What I particularly liked about this building was the roof cap. It struck me as having what I referred to as an “inverted mansard”. I knew that presented a decent challenge to build, so I set to work.

Initially, I pursued cutting the roof from chipboard. In the recent weeks I discovered a very cool app on Mac called “Unfolder” that takes a 3D object and, well… unfolds them. It flattens the shape into 2D so it can be printed and cut from any material. So, I designed the cap in Tinkercad and let Unfolder do its very quick work:

There is no doubt this would have been successful, but I was pressed for time. So, I cheated. there, I said it! I printed the shape on my 3D printer. It was a just fit for the build plate.

As the build was to be stucco, I cut some simple walls from 1/16 Basswood, braced them and assembled.

The join line on the print was from merging two separate prints due to a print error.

I got to applying the stucco. I used two separate techniques to achieve the look. First was with a can of Stone Effect rattle can Rustoleum. After a liberal coating, I then used Water Putty to vary the stucco so it’s not completely uniform. After dry, I painted it a light beige. As I waited, I made some signs and ads for the walls and applied them the next day.

The seam between the cap and wall is more noticeable than I would’ve liked, but I am happy with the result.

With the walls complete and partially weathered, I made the storefront. I used the prototype as reference once again.

The stone is textured foundation strip wood from KC’s Workshop. The walls were cut from scribed siding sheets from Northeastern Scale Lumber. I carefully painted and varied each board using a variety of acrylic paints and Hunterline stains.

Upon a dry fit, and looking at the prototype again, I realized there was one more thing I’d need to print. A storefront sign. I hopped back on Tinkercad and made this:

I then made a cap to fit around the storefront. After the print was done, I painted it a bronze color and added a Verdigris effect using a special effect paint.

I picked out some Tichy windows from my stash and painted them with an aged white applied with a sponge.

For the roof, I used a 50pt chipboard that I covered with black construction “tar paper”. I used the technique of spraying it with a grey primer, and lightly sanding and aging each strip before applying. I use 3M transfer tape on all my roofs to avoid messy glue situations. Once in place, I lifted various corners and added dirt and debris, weathering with pastel chalks to complete. I also added a stove pipe cut from brass tube.

With the building largely done, I turned my attention to the base. I knew I was going to make a diorama from it, so I cut a base from pink insulation foam (Home Depot stuff). I then used Hydrocal plaster and made a street. This was a simple as using masking tape to mask the appropriate area, apply the wet plaster, smooth out and wait to dry. Once hard, I used an xacto knife to scribe the expansion joints and cracks. I gave it a wash with Hunterline stain.

The sidewalk is from Bar Mills.

After I was happy with the street, painting the sidewalk in the process, I positioned and glued the building to the foam.

Once in place, I knew I wanted something else on the build to make it more whimsical. So, just like the Siekirk’s Seafood build, I made a little side structure from Clapboard and shingled roofing. Once stained, painted and weathered, it was glued in place. At this point, I added ground cover to this side of the diorama.

Ground Cover recipe:

1. Real dirt mix (right now I don’t have access to any dirt as it’s under about 4 feet of snow) so I used a store bought dirt from Scenery Express. I mix the dirt with ground up real leaves I collected in the Fall. I sprinkle this mix directly onto dry pink foam. After I’ve leveled the mix, pushing it up against the structure to make it appear sunk into the ground, I then use a dish soap water mix to wet the ground. I get it soaking. I then use scenery glue to fix it all in place. Before it dries, I immediately move to step two:

2. For the small shrubs, I use two colors of Woodland Scenics “Underbrush”. The taller grass tufts are from AK interactive, but these can be found at other suppliers. The tiny dots of green is Woodland Scenics coarse turf. All of these elements are pushed into the wet ground, so it can all dry together. Scenery glue takes many hours to dry so there’s plenty of time to work.

3. Once all dry, I vary the ground cover by adding growth to the sides of buildings and scatter trash, leaves etc…

I continued this method around the entire base. Althugh I didn’t require them on this base, larger shrubs can be made using fiber material from places like Woodland Scenics or Accurail. This fiber is then cut to size, soaked in matte medium and various turf sprinkled and added all over.

Looking at the diorama at this stage, I knew I wanted to vary to height and draw the eye, so I set out to make a power line pole.

For this I used 1/8 dowel I bought in a large pack at Hobby Lobby.

I cut this to length, then round the end using an emery board. After that, I run a fine tooth razor saw down the length of the dowel to add a wood grain effect. After removing any splinters, I give it two coats of Driftwood stain.

I then add my power line arm. Currently, I am using Italeri’s telephone pole kit. Even though it’s 1/35 scale, it seems to fit HO very well — at least in my opinion. The kit cost me $5. For the transformers, these were 3D printed from a design by Luke Towan. You can download that file for free from his website. Here’s my me of the finished poles:

I drilled an appropriate sized hole through the Hydrocal and fixed it in place. Adding a meter (FOS Scale casting) and weatherhead (actually a cut 1/35 gun accessory) to the building, I then used EZ line for the cabling.

After a few extra details (a casting or two, newspapers, streetlight, Preiser etc) the diorama was finished. It took approximately 15 hours on and off work. Here are the final photos:

As always, more can be found over on my blog here:

Thanks for following along!

Seeking Kit... / FAQ Dioramas book
« on: January 14, 2021, 07:21:50 PM »

Anyone have this and might be looking to move it on? It’s for a friend looking to save some pennies.

Seeking Kit... / Trains of Texas Casting
« on: January 09, 2021, 08:02:44 PM »
This is a long shot, but does anyone have a Trains of Texas brick wall mold (O Scale) as George often used on the F&SM?

If so, would anyone be interested in making a mold of one for me? I can pay, of course. Or maybe sell a casting?

Thanks in advance.

Off we go.

As of today, I’m starting up my 2021 Winter Build Challenge.

It’s Gordon Novelty Co from FOS Scale.

This building is becoming a seafood restaurant on my Rocky Point Harbor F&SM tribute.

It will stand in place of the “Izzy Fish Co” building, with this kit being chosen as it somewhat resembles that structure.

I have big plans for this kit, so I can’t wait to get started on my first build challenge!

More soon.

EDIT: uploading two of John/Tom’s photos of Izzy Fish for reference.

Modeling: Wall Techniques / Windows and Shades - The Easy Way!
« on: December 30, 2020, 12:52:14 PM »
I classify windows as part of my wall construction, so I figure to post this here!

It’s no secret that doing windows can be more than a little repetitive — especially if you have a large building with many, many of them.

I always like to add curtains and shades to my windows to give depth and realism, but it can be a very time consuming part of any given build. I set out to re-balance the scales yesterday and the results are definitely worth sharing! So here we go…

First, I cut out strips of paper/card stock of the color shades I wanted. I then weathered them with pastel chalks.

For the curtains, I use the ultra thin, tissue-like paper you get in packs of acetate (window glass) that separate the sheets to keep them blemish free. I age this paper with light alcohol stain (Driftwood) and then cut it into strips that I concertina fold and roll between my fingers. This is the result:

Then, I scanned them all together on my flatbed scanner.

I use an Apple MacBook, so I also use “Pages” – Apple’s included, Microsoft Word alternative. It’s powerful and very intuitive, so I recommend it fully if you also own a Mac. In the following video, I demonstrate how I handle these scans once I import them. I have already imported the images and cropped them for convenience sake before the video starts:

Here are a bunch I printed at slight different scales for my larger and smaller windows:

And finally, here is the finished effect on my Swee’Peas build (which I will be posting in full soon):

A good idea, as I have done on the front of the building, is to add windows that have curtains blowing through an open window. This helps sell the illusion that all the windows are fully rendered!

I post lots of stuff at my blog here, if you want to check it out:

Modeling: Signage / Mackenzie Milling & Emporium Seafood signs
« on: December 19, 2020, 04:29:45 PM »
Hey all — just going through a few newly purchased FSM kits and both Mackenzie Milling & Emporium Seafood signs have suffered too much to use.

Does anyone have any clean, high quality scans they could send me?


Selling Kit... / FS: Butcher's Way by FSM
« on: December 08, 2020, 05:24:06 PM »
In recent months I acquired an additional, like new, kit of the wonderful Butcher's Way by Fine Scale Miniatures.

Chances are I will not need a second version of this kit, so I'm looking to move it on.

Asking $290 + $10 US Shipping.

Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Sunday 6 December
« on: December 06, 2020, 07:07:24 AM »
What a day yesterday was! Our catalytic converter was cut from under our truck during the night by thieves. We live a few short blocks from George Floyd’s murder site, and with patrols at an all time low, crime is up at an all time high. Tragedy on tragedy.

As I worked to get that fixed, and attempted to make a stair gate fit that was just too wide, a couple FSM kits I ordered arrived — incomplete!

May today be somewhat more successful!  :P

Happy Sunday all

Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Friday 4th December
« on: December 04, 2020, 07:30:46 AM »
It’s here. Friday.

The literal best of all days. Weekend is close enough to smell it but still far enough not to be wasting any of it yet.

What do you all have planned?

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