SRMW Threadwell Textile on the S&S RR

Started by S&S RR, August 09, 2018, 09:36:23 AM

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sdrees

Hi John,

Have you tried Enviro Tex Lite and Mod Poge?  I have used this method and it worked out very well.  The Enviro Tex is self leveling and the Mod Poge I used after the Enviro Tex has cured to put ripples on the surface.
Steve Drees
SP RR

Lynnb

What a shame, I can't say I've ever experienced anything like that and I've done quite a bit of water experiments including Troels method . My last experience I used envirotex and then golden thick gel to form waves and it worked well.
Ontario, Canada
The Great White North

My Layout Venture-> https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6003.0

Opa George

John, just catching up and I was sorry to see the leveling gel did not work as intended--and as others noted, grateful for your sharing of the results and the needed tear-out.

I have used the Woodland Scenics water for small streams, but for large areas used Mod Podge. I found Dave Frary's videos after doing my harbor in Mod Podge, and would have taken his tip to heart about the types of brushes best for application.  I used the wrong type for general layer application (stiff bristle) and got some air bubbles. This was toward the end of the process with some of my last few coats and I can't rule out my own impatience and putting on a too-thick layer. Overall, though, I like the end results and can hide the bubbles with some gentle gel gloss waves.
--George

S&S RR

Quote from: sdrees on January 05, 2019, 09:32:13 PM
Hi John,

Have you tried Enviro Tex Lite and Mod Poge?  I have used this method and it worked out very well.  The Enviro Tex is self leveling and the Mod Poge I used after the Enviro Tex has cured to put ripples on the surface.
[/quote


Steve


Yes - I have used Enviro Tex Lite and had great results. I was hoping to get away from the mixing and preparation process that goes along with using the resins. I made up a little test piece to do some experimenting before I continue with the water on this project. I may end up doing a resin pour.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: Lynnb on January 06, 2019, 12:38:54 AM
What a shame, I can't say I've ever experienced anything like that and I've done quite a bit of water experiments including Troels method . My last experience I used envirotex and then golden thick gel to form waves and it worked well.


I like Troels method. I'm going to try multiple layers on my test piece to see if I can get the depth I'm looking for. I will be using resins for my future big water projects. And the golden thick gel for the waves.  It looks like a good technique.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: Opa George on January 06, 2019, 07:41:06 AM
John, just catching up and I was sorry to see the leveling gel did not work as intended--and as others noted, grateful for your sharing of the results and the needed tear-out.

I have used the Woodland Scenics water for small streams, but for large areas used Mod Podge. I found Dave Frary's videos after doing my harbor in Mod Podge, and would have taken his tip to heart about the types of brushes best for application.  I used the wrong type for general layer application (stiff bristle) and got some air bubbles. This was toward the end of the process with some of my last few coats and I can't rule out my own impatience and putting on a too-thick layer. Overall, though, I like the end results and can hide the bubbles with some gentle gel gloss waves.
--George


George


Thank you for stopping by and the comments.  I will report back on how my experiments with multiple layers of Mod Podge go.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Lynnb

I've tried the modge podge and got air bubbles, my eye sight isn't all that great so really it wouldn't make a differnce, I was just experimenting.
Ontario, Canada
The Great White North

My Layout Venture-> https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6003.0

deemery

If someone questions any damage/dings to the stone walls from the removal process, tell them it's a result of ice dams :-)  Glad to see you got that crap out, looking forward to the next step.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Quote from: Lynnb on January 06, 2019, 10:13:07 AM
I've tried the modge podge and got air bubbles, my eye sight isn't all that great so really it wouldn't make a differnce, I was just experimenting.


Lynn


I will be posting the results from my Mod Podge test in this thread so stay tuned. If I have a successful test I will be using it on this model - if not I will be pouring resin again.  Stay tuned.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 06, 2019, 10:56:40 AM
If someone questions any damage/dings to the stone walls from the removal process, tell them it's a result of ice dams :-)  Glad to see you got that crap out, looking forward to the next step. I managed to hook them with one of the probes I was using to remove the ice.


dave


Dave


At one point a few days ago I was going to model it with ice and overflow - actually would have looked right but I'm modeling the fall not the spring.  The only damage that hasn't been fixed is the chains on the deck.  I cut new ones but haven't installed them yet. 
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Here is a picture of the test piece I came up with for the Mod Podge. The hot glue was left in the bottom surface as depth gauges and to see how they look under the surface when complete.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

I prepared the bottom with the Sea Green acrylic paint and then pan pastels.  On the left side I used a brighter/lighter blue than on the right side. It shows up a lot better to my eye than in the pictures. I will be applying the mod podge with a trowel as per the video's - links above.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

The instructions on the bottle say 20-30 minutes curing time - but I don't know how thin the coat has to be to get those results.  I will be applying the material with trowel to different depths including as thin as I can get it.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

#628
So here is the starting point for coat one.  I played with the depth a lot. I chased the bubbles with the trowel and removed them in some areas and decided to leave them in other areas to see what happens as it cures and on coat two.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

After 40 minutes curing time.  It looks like you have to be extremely thin with your coat to meet the 20-30 min cure time.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

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