The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 4

[deemery]

Tom, remind me again:  How did you cut this?  You got really nice clean cuts along the top.

dave

[ACL1504]

I finished the last two sections of fascia. This is very basic stuff for most of us but for those that haven't installed a layout fascia, this is how I do mine.

I ripped some Masonite in a width of 4 1/4" and 8' long. Masonite comes in a 4X8 foot sheet. I have it ripped down the middle at the lumber yard. In this case, Lowes. 

When I attach it to the layout, I allow for a 1/4" above the layout deck. This allows me to add the 1/4" pink foam base.



I have the last two sections clamped onto the layout.

[ACL1504]

Tom, remind me again:  How did you cut this?  You got really nice clean cuts along the top.

dave

Dave,

Great question. I have a table top saw which holes a 10" blade. I use an 80 tooth blade for cutting the Masonite. The higher the number, the finer the cut you'll get.

However, you can also get a nice clean cut using a 50 tooth blade if you cut it slowly.

The 80 tooth blade allows me to get down to business and not waste time at the saw. For even finer cuts, you can get a 96 tooth blade. Hope this helps.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I made sure the corners were square/level prior to drilling and screwing on the fascia. No photo of a level this time but trust me, it is level.



I start by using a 1/16" drill bit to give me a pilot hole. I don't want a big hole yet, just a small bit opening.

[ACL1504]

I then use a 23/64" drill to "ream out" the hole. In the next photo, I'm referring to a drill bit like the one on the left and not the wood bit on the right.



The 23/64" bit will allow you to open the hole but still keep the small pilot hole on the back side.

NOTE: When I use the 23/64" bit, I drill in short bursts to be able to control the depth of the hole. If you aren't careful, the bit will pull itself into the Masonite and creating a much larger hole than necessary.

This next photo shows the start of what I want.



The next photo shows the final beveled hole. The photo is a close up shot so the hole appears larger than the actual size.

[ACL1504]

I use 1" drywall screws to hold the Masonite fascia to the layout edge.




Here is the end result. The drywall screw is secure and flush with the fascia.





Done for today.

[Bernd]

Hey Tom,

Ever think of using something like this for countersink holes?

countersink drills

Bernd

[deemery]

Tom, remind me again:  How did you cut this?  You got really nice clean cuts along the top.

dave

Dave,

Great question. I have a table top saw which holes a 10" blade. I use an 80 tooth blade for cutting the Masonite. The higher the number, the finer the cut you'll get.

However, you can also get a nice clean cut using a 50 tooth blade if you cut it slowly.

The 80 tooth blade allows me to get down to business and not waste time at the saw. For even finer cuts, you can get a 96 tooth blade. Hope this helps.

Tom

Thanks, Tom!  I've been pondering plexiglass for some exposed part of the layout.  I really need to get enough scenery done to where I could actually run a loco around the layout without worrying about the loco taking a dive due to my questionable trackwork...  I got a track saw to do the fascia pieces from hardboard, I bet that would work OK on plexiglass with a fine tooth blade.  

dave

[Rick]

Tom, excellent fascia how-to.

[Jerry]

Looks great Tom.  Thanks for the tutorial!!

Jerry

[elwoodblues]

Tom, the fascia looks great.

[Vietnam Seabee]

Great SBS Tom.. thanks
terry