Howdy.
This year Bob VanGelder of South River Modelworks announced that he is making no more large kits. Tucker and Cook is the last large kit from SRM.
When I first saw this kit at the South River website (http://www.southrivermodelworks.com) I knew I had to have it. I began working on it during the Thanksgiving holiday.
South River kits need no introduction so I'll shut up.
The kit box and its contents.
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Isn't it cool!
Coming up - I start the build.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Howdy.
One of South River Modelworks' signature items is the number of windows its kits' buildings have. Tucker and Cook has 80 windows. 80!
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I "primed" the styrene castings with cheap Walmart white spray paint.
There are 80 windows folks. 80!
Coming up - the main building's walls.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Oh boy oh boy , a new kit being built by Jaime , that means a great thread in the making, you got me hooked Jaime.
All right Jaime! Looking forward to this build. I also have it, and your builds are always informative and fun to follow. 80 windows? Egads!
Quote from: MAP on December 06, 2014, 05:25:35 AM
All right Jaime! Looking forward to this build. I also have it, and your builds are always informative and fun to follow. 80 windows? Egads!
To paraphrase Jaime, "We love windows".
Woo-hoo! A Jaime build thread!
Jeff
Looking forward to this, Jaime! Just curious...how many windows are there?
what a great looking kit! I'll be following closely...who knows, maybe someday urban renewal will come to the N scale section of my layout in the interest of a SRMW masterpiece.
Love a Jaime thread!
John
...ha..80 windows...how many doors?.....I'll be watching...
What a great way to start the morning - a Jaime build thread. I will be following along.
80 windows... are you planning to do them with real glass ?
Anyway I will follow too
Eric Québec city
Add me to the followers!
Tom ;D
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 06, 2014, 08:07:50 AM
80 windows... are you planning to do them with real glass ?
Anyway I will follow too
Eric Québec city
Eric, the kit includes acetate for glazing. I'll be using that. I'd like to finish the kit before the next comes out.
Thanks for the feedback gang. Anyone else out there with this kit, join in.
Jaime
Howdy.
OK. So I said I'd discuss the walls next. I lied.
Before I proceed I want to point out a couple of things I found noteworthy.
First thing:
- South River Modelworks does an outstanding job with its instructions book. Yes folks, SRM kits include a spiral-bound book (8.5 x 11) that not only includes instructions on how to build the kit and the scenery around it, this book also discusses in depth the tools and materials needed to build the kit plus a history of the prototype the kit is based on. Furthermore, there are in-process photos all throughout the instruction book to guide the modeler through the entire process.
Second thing:
- I would have never chosen turquoise as a trim color for a building. But, this is what the instructions call for and it is what I used. As I was painting all 80 windows (yes, there are 80 windows for this kit. I counted them... All 80 of them) with turquoise I kept thinking to myself, "Jaime, this does not look right. But it looks fantastic on the photo on top of the box lid. I wonder did they fire the guy that chose the Penn Central's livery colors."
Anyway, here is a shot of how I painted the trim color, turquoise.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7237.JPG&hash=1ce0977b717cb9bc51402730f0bd999db305acfd)
I'm still puzzled as to how what is pictured above will end up looking good when it is all said and done.
Coming up - the main building's walls... and the 80 windows soon thereafter.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
:D I'm really looking forward this one. That's a lot of windows. ;D ;D That's a lot of turquoise windows! :o :o ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 06, 2014, 08:33:33 AM
:D I'm really looking forward this one. That's a lot of windows. ;D ;D That's a lot of turquoise windows! :o :o ;D
The trim and ornamental architectural features are also turquoise. What were they thinking?! But if you go to SRM's website and look at their build you'll be convinced that it works. I hope I pull it off.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 06, 2014, 08:36:07 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 06, 2014, 08:33:33 AM
:D I'm really looking forward this one. That's a lot of windows. ;D ;D That's a lot of turquoise windows! :o :o ;D
The trim and ornamental architectural features are also turquoise. What were they thinking?! But if you go to SRM's website and look at their build you'll be convinced that it works. I hope I pull it off.
Jaime
Well I'll be. You're right. :D I just went and peeked at it. It sure does work. Works very well actually. Like you, I never would have selected that if I had to chose which colors to use.
See folks, there really was a Tucker and Cook...
http://chace.athm.org/singleDisplay.php?kv=80018
Jaime
It sure that Turquoise is a very "flashy" color, and if Iif I had this kit, I'm not sure that I had used this color and the turquoise color will probably be replaced by a phtalo green like this one
Just my two cent....
Eric QUébec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 06, 2014, 10:04:10 AM
It sure that Turquoise is a very "flashy" color, and if Iif I had this kit, I'm not sure that I had used this color and the turquoise color will probably be replaced by a phtalo green like this one
Just my two cent....
Eric QUébec city
Jaime,
I have to agree with Eric regarding the turquoise. I have the same kit and will be starting after Christmas. It's my Christmas present. Thank you for starting this now. I will be following your progress.
The turquoise color does look a bit flashy. Perhaps it is the white primer that is accentuating the turquoise. The color photos in the kit and instructions show a much more muted color. I typically prime my windows with Grey primer from Walmart, then apply Americana "White Wash" as a wash, not full strength. I would experiment with a slight wash of the turquoise to see if it would tone it down. In reading the instructions further, i think that bob "started" with the turquoise and may have modified it a bit. Just my humble opinion.
That being said, far be it from me to question the master - Bob Van Gelder, Just my two cents. Keep up the good work, and remember, we like pictures.
Frank / Erieman
Jaime: "When I first saw this kit at the South River website I knew I had to have it."
Somehow I think he had to have it even before he saw it. It will be a great build. Eric has a good color choice for windows- myself, I would have gone with chartreuse.
What do you use to glaze 80 windows?
Quote from: Mike Engler on December 06, 2014, 11:26:46 AM
What do you use to glaze 80 windows?
80 teeny tiny itty bitty window panes.
Jaime
No Eric , Light Sea Green would be the color I'd be using, a world of difference ;)
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I had to use my new toy to get the picture off Bob's site for our reference. My eyes say darker and more green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214134101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214134101.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2014, 01:43:04 PM
I had to use my new toy to get the picture off Bob's site for our reference. My eyes say darker and more green. I always have to look at colors side by side on the same monitor. Jaime it's going to look great no matter what color you choose.
I also bought the kit, but it will be awhile before this one gets to the top of the build list. Already a great thread Jaime!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214134101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214134101.jpeg)
I think I just hit the quote instead of the modify button on that last post - but I like the color Eric found. Just my 2 cents.
The instructions say "Folk Art turquoise". That is what I am using. I even went to Michaels during Black Friday weekend to get it. I waited in line at the register a long time to pay.
The instructions do caution that turquoise is a matter of preference.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 06, 2014, 01:55:56 PM
The instructions say "Folk Art turquoise". That is what I am using. I even went to Michaels during Black Friday weekend to get it. I waited in line at the register a long time to pay.
The instructions do caution that turquoise is a matter of preference.
Jaime
I love this place!
Turquoise.
Buy the right one.
Jaime
Jaime,
Just a follow up on the color. I have found that many of the acrylics pigments have a tendency to be bright straight out of the bottle and then darken overnight. I don't know why, but I have experienced this on many projects. Wait til tomorrow and see if the turquoise has darken. Just thought you might want to know.
Frank / Erieman
Howdy.
OK. So I'll jump ahead a bit in the effort to answer a few questions.
- The windows will get weathered with alcohol black India ink stain and dry-brushed with sandstone paint (the instructions suggest aged white).
- The windows are glazed with the clear acetate included in the kit.
The instructions direct the modeler to cut strips of the acetate in one dimension of the windows and then use a chopper to cut the other dimension. I did just that.
- First I measured the height of a window and cut a strip of acetate that measurement wide.
- Second I measured the width of the window and set my chopper to that measurement and chopped the acetate strip to that measurement.
- Third I glued the acetate panes to the window castings using plastic cement. You could use canopy glue or white glue for this.
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The instructions mention the use of Gallery Glass and Micro Crystal Clear for the glazing. I've tried the Gallery Glass and Canopy Glue for glazing and have not been too crazy about the results. Thus, I went with the acetate included in the kit.
Coming up - the main building's walls... and the 80 windows soon thereafter.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Quote from: Erieman on December 06, 2014, 04:00:16 PM
Jaime,
Just a follow up on the color. I have found that many of the acrylics pigments have a tendency to be bright straight out of the bottle and then darken overnight. I don't know why, but I have experienced this on many projects. Wait til tomorrow and see if the turquoise has darken. Just thought you might want to know.
Frank / Erieman
That is a good point.
Jaime
Wow...I never thought of using the chopper for knocking out consistent window acetate cuts. Game changer.
I have to say I like the Canopy glue application for windows. So fast, so easy and just hazy enough.
Good one Jaime!
John
Jaime,
I'll be following along, too. I'm really looking forward to the smaller additions/outbuildings. I really like how Bob's smaller structures complement the main building.
Jaime's got a much worse problem than trim color!!!
Now that's he's got a SRMW kit under construction, Lisa's gettin' frustated -
"Now, what the chit am I gonna get him for Christmas?" ??? ??? ???
Howdy.
The main building gets built first according to the instructions.
There is a lot of wood on the main building. It all needs to be painted and weathered before gluing all the walls together.
To save some time I'll summarize the process explained in the instructions.
The wall process:
1. Brace the walls with 1/8" square provided in the kit according to the templates provided in the kit. There are also photos in the instruction book to guide the user on this.
2. Stain the wood walls with black India ink and alcohol stain (A&I stain). Weigh down the walls until dry.
3. In order to simulate peeling paint the modelers is to use the rubber cement technique. This is done prior to any paint.
-- a. Apply thin strips of rubber cement to the walls after the A&I is dry. Apply strips where you wish to simulate peeling paint.
-- b. Wait until rubber cement is dry before proceeding.
The rubber cement acts a a resist thus allowing the modeler to expose part of the walls after painting. Where the rubber cement goes is where the peeling paint shows.
4. Apply a thin coat of diluted white paint. The instructions suggest Americana White Wash diluted 20% with water. Apply the paint thinner at the bottom of the walls and thicker at the top of the walls. The thought here is that the walls weather more closer to the ground than they do closer to the roof. Weigh down the walls until dry.
5. When the first coat of white paint is dry the modeler is to use the white paint straight out of the tube and dry brush the walls to even out the colors. Dry brush only areas that need evening out.
6. Make nail markings on the walls. The instructions suggest spacing the nail markings 2 scale feet apart. For a more recent building space the nail markings 16" apart. It seems building practices have changed over time. The method simulates where the clapboards are nailed to wall studs. So the spacing depends on how apart studs would be spaced on the building.
7. Simulate board ends on the walls (where clapboards meet each other). Don't overdo it.
8. Simulate lifted clapboards. Do this by lifting sections of a clapboard. The instructions suggest using a no. 17 chisel blade for this.
9. Simulate replaced clapboards by painting in new clapboards. This is done with undiluted unweathered white paint. Definitely do NOT overdo this step.
Here are some photos to illustrate the process.
Bracing
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Rubber cement technique
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First coat of white paint
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Testing the window castings
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I test the window castings fit as I go along. Now is the time to sand the openings if needed. That was not needed here. The window openings on these walls were perfect!!!
Nail markings
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I use a Monster Nailer to make nail markings. The instructions suggest using a ponce wheel. I've tried the ponce wheel method and have not been satisfied with the results I get. I like the Monster Nailer better. You could use a fine point like a needle if you don't have a Monster Nailer handy.
Testing the window castings again
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Board ends
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The finished wall
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Coming up - the main building's walls.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Looking good, Jaime. I love the Monster Nailer. I wish Jimmy could get them back in production.
I think the turquoise will look fine after toning-down with inkahol and other weathering.
Great thread, as always. ;)
I already like that turquoise much more now that it's integrated in the walls , the newer planks make it look interesting too.
Very nice start Jaime.
the overview of the wall with nailhole, windows and trim is excellent.
Eric QUébec city
Howdy.
Silly me. I forgot to add the part about removing the rubber cement to do the peeling paint.
Once all the weathering is done on the wall, take some masking tape and with the sticky side against the wall press the masking tape against the wall and then lift off the masking tape. The tape will pick up the rubber cement off from the wall thus exposing the bare wall and simulating peeling paint.
Later.
Jaime
Jaime,
Good Morning, I am following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on December 07, 2014, 10:47:15 AM
Jaime,
Good Morning, I am following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.
Frank / Erieman
A little bit of both.
On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.
Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.
I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 07, 2014, 11:04:13 AM
Quote from: Erieman on December 07, 2014, 10:47:15 AM
Jaime,
Good Morning, I am following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.
Frank / Erieman
A little bit of both.
On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.
Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.
I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.
Jaime
Thanks for the update Can you clarify " I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise." Do you mean that you did not paint the window frames with the A&I?
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on December 07, 2014, 11:21:56 AM
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 07, 2014, 11:04:13 AM
Quote from: Erieman on December 07, 2014, 10:47:15 AM
Jaime,
Good Morning, I am following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.
Frank / Erieman
A little bit of both.
On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.
Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.
I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.
Jaime
Thanks for the update Can you clarify " I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise." Do you mean that you did not paint the window frames with the A&I?
Frank / Erieman
On the previous post I was addressing the trim only.
The windows I did tone down with A&I.
Sorry about the confusion. This isn't really going to be a step-by-step thread. I had a chance to work on the kit nonstop during Thanksgiving and I did. I took only enough photos to remind me about what I did. With the windows I did not want to stop along the way. I started on the windows and did not stop until done.
Bob VanGelder sugges the following for the windows:
- spray with white spray paint
- paint outside frame of windows with turquoise diluted a bit with water
- weather with A&I and aged white.
- glaze windows
- install windows on walls
I did not use aged white. I used Apple Barrel sandstone paint instead.
I diluted the turquoise by squirting a dallop from the tube onto my palette (credit card/hotel keycard), I dip clean brush in water and then swirl wet brush on corner of paint dallop. If I need to dilute more I dip brush in water again and repeat. If paint is too diluted I drag in more paint from the dallop. There is no science nor measured amount/formula. I just do what looks good to me.
There are a lot of windows. 80 of them there are. I wanted to get them done as soon as possible. I'd say altogether I spent about 5 hours on the windows (from out of the kit box to gluing finished windows to walls).
Jaime
Jaime,
Thanks for the update. 80 windows is a lot of windows. looking great. Keep up the post. I'll be starting mine in January. Still trying to finish Hookers.
Frank / Erieman
Looking great Jaime. Thanks for posting a thread.
How many windows , 80 you say ;D
Looking good Jaime.
Wow - Jaime, you are moving right along on this build - looking good!
Jaime...
I've put this up in other places on this forum but I'll do it again.
Nothing looks like glass except glass. So.......
Consider microscope slides. They are available through Hobby town and other places, including camera shops that market microscopes.
Cut the glass with a machinist's scribe. Available at Home Depot or other big box.
Use a straight edge and a single pass where you want the break to occur.
You can use whole slides or the smaller slide covers. You can't tell the thickness of the glass once installed.
Don't use super glue as it makes a blue color that won't come off when it kicks. Styrene glue or Goo.
Handle from the edges as finger marks are hard to get off but Kleenex works good.
Let me know how it goes.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 08, 2014, 02:04:21 AM
Jaime...
I've put this up in other places on this forum but I'll do it again.
Nothing looks like glass except glass. So.......
Consider microscope slides. They are available through Hobby town and other places, including camera shops that market microscopes.
Cut the glass with a machinist's scribe. Available at Home Depot or other big box.
Use a straight edge and a single pass where you want the break to occur.
You can use whole slides or the smaller slide covers. You can't tell the thickness of the glass once installed.
Don't use super glue as it makes a blue color that won't come off when it kicks. Styrene glue or Goo.
Handle from the edges as finger marks are hard to get off but Kleenex works good.
Let me know how it goes.
see ya
Bob
Just a little precision about this god technic to do real glass (from my personnal experience) : don't forget to dip the machinist scribe in white spirit before pass it on the glass. the point does not to be wet , just moist, like a pencil for making drybrushing. ... 80 windows... that's a challenge
Eric Québec city
Jaime,
Nice start and very informative as well. Thanks.
Tom ;D
I appreciate all the feedback so far.
I wanted to point out that when I did the nail markings I did not mark every board in a row of markings. I probably marked 3/5 to 2/3 of the boards. When finished the viewer will see most of the boards marked and the brain fills in the rest. After all, the model will not be seen up close. There only needs to be enough markings to suggest they are all there. Besides, this model may end in the farthest corner of my layout later in the future and all those details will likely get lost.
However, if you feel you need to mark every clapboard with a nail marking then that is ok.
Jaime
Eric and Bob,
I want to put in "real glass" on my next kit. Can you please confirm the following:
Machinists Scribe - See 1st Pic - Is that what it looks like?
http://www.amazon.com/PJT-Machinists-Scribe/dp/B00HE9OTHU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095428&sr=8-13&keywords=machinist+scribe
Microscope Slides - See 2nd Pic
http://www.amazon.com/Blank-Microscope-Slides-Square-Cover/dp/B002OS6D9I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095624&sr=8-1&keywords=microscope+slides
White Spirit - See 3rd Pic - Why White Spirit to wet the Machinist Scribe..and not Mineral Spirits or Rubbing Alcohol or even water?
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Artists-White-Spirits/dp/B00681M69I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095779&sr=8-1&keywords=white+spirit
Goo Glue or Styrene Glue - See 4th and 5th Pic - What is so special about this glue...why not Weldbond Blue which drys clear?
http://www.amazon.com/Walthers-904-299-Goo-Glue-Cement/dp/B002SZ88K4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418095818&sr=8-2&keywords=goo+glue
http://www.micromark.com/same-stuff-professional-plastic-welder-refill-2-fl-oz,9002.html
Thanks!
Alan
Alan..
Following your list......
#1 No
#2 Yes
#3 Yes
#4 Yes
#5 I have no idea what this is..........
Although your #1 is often called a machinist's scribe ..... What I am talking about is a pencil looking devise with a carbide tip, preferably at a very step angle, as in a very sharp pencil.
Try this link from Home Depot.......... I know that General tool company also makes one.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Tungsten-Carbide-Tip-Scribe-KH537/202939731?MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2_rr-_-NA-_-202939731-_-N (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Tungsten-Carbide-Tip-Scribe-KH537/202939731?MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2_rr-_-NA-_-202939731-_-N)
see ya
Bob
Hi ALan,
1. Personnaly I've used a tool from my dentist, you can see pic on the thread.
2. microscope cover glass is what I've used.
3. why white spirit rather than mineral spirit or alcool ? I don't know. The purpose is to make a clean cut when you broke the glass after pass the tool.
4 - 5 Personnaly i've used CA glue. I've make micro dot off glue apply with a clothes pin
Eric QUébec city
Howdy.
It's time to glue some walls together.
But, before I do that I need to get the building's foundation in place.
The kit includes a resin casting for the brick and stone foundation. It is a nice casting. I painted mine with red primer from a spray can.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7247.JPG&hash=d93396b8a1e6969f790ebd9e3f06e4a0d2b90bdd) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7247.JPG)
Above I've placed an unpainted resin casting from the kit to show the difference between the painted foundation and an unpainted casting.
I glued all the walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7248.JPG&hash=145673c863994490516bd1eac3ebb6b6b4f28d79) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7248.JPG)
Next I painted the rock portion of the foundation with grey acrylic paint. I used grey pastel chalk to simulate the mortar for the brick portion of the foundation casting.
Using pastel chalks to simulate mortar is easy and goes fast. Basically you scrape some chalk dust from a pastel chalk stick and apply the dust to the casting. I used a damp finger to spread about the chalk dust into the mortar crevices.
I then glued the walls to the foundation casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7249.JPG&hash=3a4c0422da80564ed8e7558f099a1935548e28f2) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7249.JPG)
Notice that in the photo above there is another casting on top of the walls. This is part of the architectural ornamentation on the building. That casting will get painted turquoise before it gets glued. For now the casting is just resting on the walls so I can dry fit it. I had to sand mine down just a tad. This is expected and the instructions suggest using a metal file for that task.
Perhaps you've already surmised that with a solid casting for the foundation and a solid casting for the ornamental trim one can no longer reach inside the building's walls. So I had to account for that before I proceeded.
Let's face it, the walls are not thick enough to provide sufficient surface area when gluing them to the foundation. So, I cheated and made some cleats that I attached to the walls and glued the cleats to the foundation with thick CA gel (super glue).
Here you can see how I used cleats to provide more surface area when gluing the walls to the foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7251.JPG&hash=043d480292335e4102fd07785a23d669d60a1e0b) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7251.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7252.JPG&hash=ea74ee9b08544392f207a08466a9712c6db676c8)
Please note that I went ahead and added a view block to my building by spray painting a piece of cardboard flat black from a cheap spray can. This step was not in the instructions.
By the way, the whole cleat thing was not in the instructions either. I stumbled upon the cleat cheat on my own.
Coming up - the mansard roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
This build is looking great, and moving along fast!
You're almost to the point of tellin' Lisa the next kit that you want for Christmas.
I've already been notified that I ain't gettin' diddly until I get my butt back in the train room!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on December 09, 2014, 07:39:54 PM
This build is looking great, and moving along fast!
You're almost to the point of tellin' Lisa the next kit that you want for Christmas.
I've already been notified that I ain't gettin' diddly until I get my butt back in the train room!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I spent about 30 hours on the kit during the Thanksgiving Holiday. I'm back to my regular pace now.
Jaime
Keep on truckin Jaime(David can probably find the image of that guy on the web but not me.). Jim
Jaime just saw this thread don't know how I missed it.
Your doing a great job on this. Walls windows great coloring.
Jerry
Howdy.
Let's get started on the mansard roof.
First I had to paint and glue the architectural ornamentation casting. It gets painted turquoise. Because it glues to the walls I added some cleats to the top of the walls to give more gluing surface area plus it helps line up the casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7253.JPG&hash=51ece18c7bdefbc69d9f5a92456af3e124c4c17e)
I test fitted the casting after the turquoise paint was dry and weathered.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7254.JPG&hash=ec8ba14c4a5b7247b7cd8d0a2ed7cd446e822b20)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7255.JPG&hash=0b737d5ec0b0751d94a3598e11191d009e3f5343)
I glued the casting to the walls using thick CA glue. And, I weighed down the casting with some real heavy weights to make sure the casting made contact all around the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7256.JPG&hash=ba3e2c7ca7ec5e505b0e87ae3934fc45ba0f93ca)
While the glue on the casting was setting I prepared the chipboard forms for the mansard roof. These chipboard forms are already laser cut for the modeler. That is a nice touch and it helps greatly to make sure the roof forms are the exact dimensions. All one needs to do is find the appropriate forms, cut off the tabs that hold them in the chipboard card and brace the forms with 1/8" square strip wood provided in the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7250.JPG&hash=5bab247ed09556feebf4b29441de3ebd9a603d46)
Once the casting was all glued in place and the mansard roof forms were ready, I CA glued the forms to the casting starting at one corner as directed in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7257.JPG&hash=baf71e05fd5520f7b48f699b2eb725596e8d1deb)
I worked my way around the perimeter of the building to finish out the mansard roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7258.JPG&hash=bf3105b24fb55130e2a69a052f14c786bc196d60)
I have to admit I had some difficulty with the mansard roof. I studied the diagrams in the instructions as well as some photos that depict how it all goes. I was puzzled as to how it all went together. The only way I was able to make sense out of it was to dry fit the mansard roof like a jigsaw puzzle in order to match it to the photos in the instructions. I'm glad it all worked out in the end.
Coming up - the main roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Mansard Roof ??
Jaime is well on his way to earnin' his 'Apprentice Carpenter Certificate' !!!! ;D ;D ;D
Looks good Jaime.
Sweet!
...I think you need a few more tie plates to weight it down while the glue is drying....
...great job on this one!!
Very nice indeed! Very nice!!
Jerry
Howdy.
It is sooooo nice to have the roof forms already laser cut in the roof cards. Other kits have the modeler do the cutting. I like saving time where possible.
I test fit the coping (?) on which the main roof will sit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7259.JPG&hash=028376745aafe2cb4b8166874cdf1624f4193f95) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7259.JPG)
To ensure I had an even overhang all about the building and good contact with the mansard roof underneath I turned the building upside down and added some weight while the glued form dried. I used Titebond III glue for this task.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7260.JPG&hash=b023d28d0279320cd2282f52bac89989467f1e6f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7260.JPG)
Once all that was done I proceeded to glue on the main roof forms.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7261.JPG&hash=9c631ee609ecbcf5d4a24d82302c5cab873dce52) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7261.JPG)
As Lisa and some of you would say, it's starting to look like a building now.
Thanks for keeping up. I'm hoping someone else will join in the build. With Christmas fast approaching I won't have as much free time to spend on the build so it may get a tad boring here. As it stands this evening we have a Christmas party to go to and tomorrow afternoon we have a Christmas concert to go to. Modeling time will be a tad scarce for me until all the Christmas buzz is over.
Coming up - dormers.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 13, 2014, 04:20:21 PM
Howdy.
It is sooooo nice to have the roof forms already laser cut in the roof cards. Other kits have the modeler do the cutting. I like saving time where possible.
I test fit the coping (?) on which the main roof will sit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7259.JPG&hash=028376745aafe2cb4b8166874cdf1624f4193f95) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7259.JPG)
To ensure I had an even overhang all about the building and good contact with the mansard roof underneath I turned the building upside down and added some weight while the glued form dried. I used Titebond III glue for this task.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7260.JPG&hash=b023d28d0279320cd2282f52bac89989467f1e6f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7260.JPG)
Once all that was done I proceeded to glue on the main roof forms.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7261.JPG&hash=9c631ee609ecbcf5d4a24d82302c5cab873dce52) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7261.JPG)
As Lisa and some of you would say, it's starting to look like a building now.
Thanks for keeping up. I'm hoping someone else will join in the build. With Christmas fast approaching I won't have as much free time to spend on the build so it may get a tad boring here. As it stands this evening we have a Christmas party to go to and tomorrow afternoon we have a Christmas concert to go to. Modeling time will be a tad scarce for me until all the Christmas buzz is over.
Coming up - dormers.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
The build is looking great - and you are not kidding when you add some weight. We know your glue joints are sound. ;D And Bob uses the best/strongest materials for his kits. I love your build threads!!!!
This is a great thread- I hope Bob VG is watching.
Why do you put glue on the back of your credit cards?
Quote from: Mike Engler on December 13, 2014, 09:56:58 PM
This is a great thread- I hope Bob VG is watching.
Why do you put glue on the back of your credit cards?
'Cause I dip a toothpick into a glue puddle on the plastic card in order to apply small amounts of glue where needed. The plastic cards don't soak up the glue so it takes a while for the glue to "kick" while on the card. When the card gets all gunked up with glue I have to clean nothing since I toss the card in the garbage bin. I must have 100 or so hotel key cards and/or used up gift cards waiting to be used as glue and paint palettes.
I did email Bob VanGelder earlier before I began building the kit. It seems a couple of castings did not make it into my kit's box so he mailed the missing castings to me. By the way, I got the missing castings before I knew they were missing. That's pretty nice of South River to provide that level of customer service.
Jaime
You're doing a great job on this build Jaime! Thanks for all of the photo updates. It will be very helpful when I start mine sometime next year. Keep those updates coming!
Very nicely done. Yhank you to take time to share your experience with us.
Eric QUébec city
Quote from: Mike Engler on December 13, 2014, 09:56:58 PM
This is a great thread- I hope Bob VG is watching.
Why do you put glue on the back of your credit cards?
Lisa makes him do it so he can't use 'em to buy more kits!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I like it, Jaime, I like it!
Tom ;D
Great coverage of the build but dude......your workbench is way too neat and clean. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 15, 2014, 03:29:20 PM
Great coverage of the build but dude......your workbench is way too neat and clean. ;D ;D ;D
Well, I did clean it prior to starting the build.
I have a feeling it won't stay very clean for long.
Jaime
Nice work Jaime.....I'm enjoying following along. 8)
Howdy.
I keep hoping someone else will join in the build or share their build with us as well. I shouldn't be the only one having all the fun.
It's time for the dormers.
First of all, the dormers are made from laserboard. If you are not familiar with laserboard then pay attention. Laserboard is cardstock impregnated with resin. It is durable and cuts on the laser real nice. It is also a tad tricky to paint. Well, it was tricky for me to paint.
I don't have much experience with laserboard. Thus, I followed the instructions as best I could. The instructions direct the modeler to spray paint the dormer laserboard parts with white. I did that. Here is the result:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7266.JPG&hash=35e6c41c80c37bcaca6361f4851e3786c08d7e9b) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7266.JPG)
I was not happy with it. The window openings took the paint well. The dormer sides did not take the paint so well. It was very cold outside when I sprayed these. I don't have a spray booth so I have to spray paint stuff out in my back yard. Anyway, I proceeded on.
Here is a summary of how the dormers are made:
1. Using CA glue I glued the sides of the dormers first. Note there are slots in the mansard roof and tabs in the dormer sides. It is a very snug fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7267.JPG&hash=856640592862bceb6a8986f279241a4c88b1f72e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7267.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7268.JPG&hash=877aea0e51dfb0523b5f3237681ae85503cbaaff) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7268.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7269.JPG&hash=1de6da7d98ea340f2a4805700eb04ffd9c3c817b) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7269.JPG)
2. I cheated and placed the building on its side so I could glue on the dormer window openings onto the dormer sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7270.JPG&hash=9382f46db255ddc2a8d633c0eb30569e5abc3edd) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7270.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7271.JPG&hash=7c0d0e07f7ee5fc0249a2515a878a9e0e06ba7d6) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7271.JPG)
I test fit one of the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7272.JPG&hash=165fba7caa0d7c8c75de99e627a72b92753db7f8) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7272.JPG)
It fit in just right.
You likely surmised the dormer roofs are missing. Those get glued on later.
4. There is one large dormer with no windows. I say dormer 'cause that is what the instructions call it. It was made of laserboard as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7262.JPG&hash=7bfacf944a6c375d3c751e73ba72b2e3c0477bd3) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7262.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7263.JPG&hash=c8401007d45c8a04abf8e3aa858d5b84a189e294) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7263.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7264.JPG&hash=8a04cff63db7144d7d414c6cddef4226f778f3a8) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7264.JPG)
Here is how it all ended up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7273.JPG&hash=294a21be01cc4701d3943c275acc80bff29621a3) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7273.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7274.JPG&hash=8d3345fc1745eedab6667a6afdd9da6ed429927e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7274.JPG)
I placed a Jordan pick-up truck and a can of diet soda (Lisa's) next to the building to give it some perspective.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7275.JPG&hash=f6c60ec9097bdce44e11b8bbf61c066b79601ad5) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7275.JPG)
Coming up - shingling the mansard roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Man, Jaime you are going a great job with this kit. I like the can and Jordan comparison.
Thanks for sharing Jamie. Putting those shingles on between each Dormer is going to be a B^%#H. I'm surprised the instructions don't have you add them to the roof first - then cut out the holes and then add the dormers...
Alan
PS On a side note, I got an email from Bar Mills that they began shipping out their Cundy Village kit today.
Quote from: nextceo on December 15, 2014, 08:41:23 PM
Thanks for sharing Jamie. Putting those shingles on between each Dormer is going to be a B^%#H. I'm surprised the instructions don't have you add them to the roof first - then cut out the holes and then add the dormers...
Alan
PS On a side note, I got an email from Bar Mills that they began shipping out their Cundy Village kit today.
Alan,
I wondered the very same thing myself.
I'm following the instructions in the order they are found in the instructions book. I've began the mansard roof shingling. It is not going to be quick. Actually, that part is going to take me a good bit. This week we have company from out-of-town coming to visit so I won't have much time to work on the build. I'll update when I have something to share.
Thanks to all providing feedback. It helps to know there is interest in the kit.
I wonder who will post the first Cundy Village build thread...
Jaime
Great thread. I'm glad I don't have to do that shingling job. Maybe if you offer enough beer you can get the Ledbetters to come up and do it. Aren't they they just across the river? Have a great day. Jim
Jaime,
Thanks for posting this thread. I've got my kit (I swore I wouldn't buy another South River kit since I didn't have a spot for it on the layout - then I saw the kit and well, let's say I'm determined to find a spot for it!)
I will likely start mine sometime after the new year, but I'm enjoying following along.
Marty
Quote from: CVSNE on December 16, 2014, 11:15:50 AM
Jaime,
Thanks for posting this thread. I've got my kit (I swore I wouldn't buy another South River kit since I didn't have a spot for it on the layout - then I saw the kit and well, let's say I'm determined to find a spot for it!)
I will likely start mine sometime after the new year, but I'm enjoying following along.
Marty
Hi Marty.
Hopefully you can find some room for the kit. It may even be possible to make it a background flat. See the photos I'm attaching of the pilot from South River.
Jaime
Jaime very impressive. What a great job your doing on this kit.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 16, 2014, 11:55:43 AM
Jaime very impressive. What a great job your doing on this kit.
Jerry
Thank you.
South River does a great job of making the build flow along. The materials provided are top shelf. So far all the pieces match perfectly. It is not as hard as it seems. It is time consuming and at times tedious to keep moving. Nevertheless, the kit is fun to build and that's what I'm after.
Jaime
8)
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 16, 2014, 12:33:57 PM
It is time consuming and at times tedious to keep moving. Nevertheless, the kit is fun to build and that's what I'm after.
Jaime
Jaime spoke a truism!!
That's what this hobby is all about!!!! 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jamie...
Regarding the shingles between the dormers.......... I was thinking the same thing...
This is why I DON'T follow instructions. My guess is that most manufacturers have never built their own kits. Or they struggled through it so they didn't have to change the instructions. I've heard it said often than when you become a manufacturer you don't have time to be a modeler any longer.
For a long time I followed a maxim that said, "When all else fails......... then read the instructions".
I'm with you on the notion of following the instructions but there are times when experience building yells louder than the instructions.
Oh...... and by the way............ That is one cool building.
thanx
Bob
Quote from: nextceo on December 15, 2014, 08:41:23 PM
Thanks for sharing Jamie. Putting those shingles on between each Dormer is going to be a B^%#H. I'm surprised the instructions don't have you add them to the roof first - then cut out the holes and then add the dormers...
Alan
PS On a side note, I got an email from Bar Mills that they began shipping out their Cundy Village kit today.
That's a great idea but I'd be just a wee bit leery about ignoring the instructions and doing it that way. Even though they're small there are a lot of dormers and that extra surface area is bound to add up. I'd be concerned that I might run short on shingles because I'm covering spots that the manufacturer didn't factor in.
On a side note I save all the trimmed ends, scrapes, tidbits, etc. of shingles as I'm covering a roof until the job is complete. Once in a while I've had to piecemeal together a row or two from those scrapes.
Wonderful looking build so far. Great job on both the build and documenting as a thread. Thanks for everything you do for us!
Regarding the destructions :-)
We all have developed our own ways of building these beasts. Some of us have been influenced by different kit makers. So, there will be times when following the kit's instructions is optional.
I chose to follow the instructions for this kit 'cause I don't have plans for the kit so I didn't want to deviate from the kit maker's original model. I just want to build it as intended and have fun along the way.
I did question the order in which the roof is getting built. Normally I'd have chosen to shingle the roof prior to gluing it to the building. But, that is because I've been influenced by how other kit makers suggest building their kits. I guess there may not be a right and wrong way.
Thanks for following along.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 16, 2014, 11:42:15 AM
Quote from: CVSNE on December 16, 2014, 11:15:50 AM
Jaime,
Thanks for posting this thread. I've got my kit (I swore I wouldn't buy another South River kit since I didn't have a spot for it on the layout - then I saw the kit and well, let's say I'm determined to find a spot for it!)
I will likely start mine sometime after the new year, but I'm enjoying following along.
Marty
Hi Marty.
Hopefully you can find some room for the kit. It may even be possible to make it a background flat. See the photos I'm attaching of the pilot from South River.
Jaime
Jaime,
I'm sure I'll find a spot for it somewhere....
I noticed Bob's last few kits have been linear, and seem better suited for long narrow stretches which seem to be more common on most layouts than large square areas.
The last South River kit I built (not bought, mind you, but built) was called "Lamson and Goodfelt" or some such - it was a lot of fun but I could never find a suitable site for it on any layout - so I ended up selling it.
Marty
Howdy.
Here is the beginning of the shingles for the mansard roof.
I thought the 80 windows were time-consuming enough. The mansard roof shingling is indeed an exercise in patience.
Here is what is needed:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7276.JPG&hash=44701f229cf9e7c940415607dcf35402098a6699)
- A 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor pen. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS STEP. Get the right stuff!
- Laser cut shingles (very nice)
- Shingle patterns printed on grey paper (very nice)
- A very sharp pen knife. The instruction photos show a scalpel. I used my trusty orange and purple Fiskas hobby knife.
- Not pictured is 3M Transfer Tape (very nice)
First trim the borders on the sheet of laser cut shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7277.JPG&hash=e537e5da05dc83486e37b5cdec69e8d9381e197d)
Then color about 1/3 of the shingles with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7278.JPG&hash=55e351c681543a30ebb393be53d70c47b2a466b5)
DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS STEP. Get the right stuff!
Next one is to trim each single row of shingles from the sheet of shingles and prepare the shingle pattern paper by applying the 3M Transfer Tape where the shingles will be glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7279.JPG&hash=7e96094a34df9d110086b241c637cb0f27f30a89)
Once the shingle pattern paper (I cheated and used copy paper instead) is covered with the 3M Transfer Tape one glues on each row of shingles one at a time IN A SPECIFIC PATTERN.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7280.JPG&hash=8632a827bb9e6748c294eccb97e3ad1e2d42fc8b)
The shingle row pattern is:
- 3 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) at the bottom
- 2 light grey shingle rows above that
- 2 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) above that
- 2 light grey shingle rows above that
- 2 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) at the top
And here is a full shingle pattern ready to glue to the mansard roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7281.JPG&hash=ebad36d5f7d5e1ca03a81531a1377f6b32cd113e)
Start at one corner of the mansard roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7282.JPG&hash=fb005d251cff96a2a60834f38d6ebb0413fb1d6e)
Work your way around the mansard roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7283.JPG&hash=adbfe49a02ad2e01c6eff9c5571c4858ff6ad6cb)
And that is where I am currently. I now need to go finish the job.
Coming up - dormer roofs.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Looking good Jaime. I'll be coming back to this thread when I start my kit next year. Lots of great information. Thanks for all of the pics.
Nice job on shingling around the dormers. When I first built one of BVG's kits I said there has to be a better way to attack the shingling. First, I am almost adamant about building everything while it is flat on the workbench, whether walls, roofs, whatever. On walls I apply, siding, windows, glazing, window treatment, nail holes, detailing, weathering- you name it before assembly. Then I do roof panels flat on the bench to apply shingles, corrugated, rolled paper sheets, and then color and weather them before assembling the building. The excess shingles or other roofing material is easily trimmed from the sides of the roof while they are flagon the bench, as well as painting the exposed underside of the roof, or even apply rafters.
But on a structure with dormers, it doesn't look right to shingle the roof and place the dormers on top of the shingles. Kind of like placing a finished structure on top of your scenery, rather than "planting" it. I think the best way with dormers (or chimneys) is to cut and trim carefully and apply them neatly around the dormer, like Bob says. This will require a lot of dry fitting, but hey, neatness counts!
Of course, if you do a sloppy job you can always mix some thinned white glue and Grimy Black and cover up your sins by applying the mixture with a tooth pick- then call it "flashing".
Ok. Here is a tiny update.
I've begun shingling in between the dormers. It is going much faster than expected.
I'll have some photos later tonight.
Jaime
Howdy.
Tiny update to mansard roof shingling.
So I figured out I could take the width measurement in between dormers and transfer that to my chopper and chop me some sections of shingling.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7285.JPG&hash=5ceffd0fa2e7beb56b42bd7500a600ff12d1914d)
Ain't no step for a stepper. (http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6228&start=480#p103576)
And that is where I am currently. I now need to go finish the job.
Coming up - dormer roofs.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Howdy.
I used Titebond III glue to glue the shingle sections to the mansard roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG&hash=ff18a782af85c02eceda663e6cdd9d47fad9514e)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7287.JPG&hash=d9b5554b4a5d46607c3f21b7cdb03a0acdac47ff)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7288.JPG&hash=76ecc35f230810d82d736325cc93f189f2e472d9)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7289.JPG&hash=1ac07f9686d8221c1259248ef1dffb69f526633a)
I must confess this step went by much faster than I anticipated. I like that!
Coming up - dormer roofs.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Hot dog!
Vilius is building his Tucker and Cook on his blog:
http://viliussm.blogspot.com
Misery loves company ::)
Jaime
Jaime
It is really coming along - looks great! I bought some Titebond trim glue some time this summer that works great for scenery. It's thicker and tacky so it stays where you put it. I can't remember where I bought it and haven't been able to find it again to replenish my supply.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 19, 2014, 07:34:44 PM
Jaime
It is really coming along - looks great! I bought some Titebond trim glue some time this summer that works great for scenery. It's thicker and tacky so it stays where you put it. I can't remember where I bought it and haven't been able to find it again to replenish my supply.
Elliott (may he rest in peace) turned me on to Titebond III wood glue. He told me, "once you use Titebond III you won't use anything else on your builds." He was right. For gluing wood I only use Titebond III now. I pick it up at my local Ace Hardware but you could get it at any big box store.
Jaime
You're really making some great progress Jaime. I like the idea of using the Chopper to make those cuts on the shingles. Clean & accurate. I've been using TIII for all of my builds. I love that stuff. I get it at Home D. or Lowes.
Checking in on you Jaime. What a pleasant surprise to see how far you've come.
I think your patience has paid off.
Excellent work.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 20, 2014, 06:33:37 PM
Checking in on you Jaime. What a pleasant surprise to see how far you've come.
I think your patience has paid off.
Excellent work.
Jerry
Thanks everyone.
I managed to spend a great deal of time on the kit today. I'll try to have an update tomorrow.
It's a great kit. You all should join in.
Jaime
Them north and eastern modelers and manufacturers don't sceer the Memphis Mafia!!
Jaime (aka 'Am'I') is the top kit buildin' hit-man round here!
You don't want'a mess with him!!!
Just my way of saying "Great model building" !
Hey Jamie,
Thanks for sharing all the big pictures. How do you get them to show at the larger size? When I attach photos to my posts, they are small and require the reader to click on them to enlarge the image.
Thanks again!
Alan
Alan , Jaime like myself links to the photo's from his own site , you can also link from any photo site or any photo at all actually.
One of jaimes pictires is here http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG)
Right click on the photo , click on Copy image Location , then I click on the Mona Lisa button , to the left above the smileys, then right click and paste , click okay. Et voila.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG&hash=ff18a782af85c02eceda663e6cdd9d47fad9514e)
Quote from: nextceo on December 21, 2014, 12:16:21 AM
Hey Jamie,
Thanks for sharing all the big pictures. How do you get them to show at the larger size? When I attach photos to my posts, they are small and require the reader to click on them to enlarge the image.
Thanks again!
Alan
Hi Alan,
I first upload the photos to my website, then I link to the photos from inside the post using the [ IMG ] [ /IMG ] tags (Mona Lisa icon when editing your post) like this:
[ img ]http : //www. myyehudaexperience .com/images/modeleres/SRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG[ /img ]I've placed some white spaces so the forum software doesn't register the IMG command. If you take out all the white space in the italicized text above you get this:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG&hash=ff18a782af85c02eceda663e6cdd9d47fad9514e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7286.JPG)
Later.
Jaime
Very nice Jaime. I'm not a fan of installing windows so that is a good job on your part. And the shingles look good too.
8)
Howdy.
The dormer roofs were a breeze.
Once again all the needed parts are found in one of the laser-cut chipboard cards. I like that.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7290.JPG&hash=6401c1ea49ac80f9606eea59a7a0ca334ae57e4c) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7290.JPG)
I glued all the dormer roofs in place using the Titebond III glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7291.JPG&hash=26da20cc537454880e025397bea8dec8b76b681d)
I got to tell you, this craftsman kit gig gets easier and easier the more of these cool kits one builds.
Coming up - shingling the main roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Howdy.
I won't go into all the detail about shingling the main roof since some of it overlaps the mansard roof shingling. There is however one clever tidbit about shingling the main roof. The main roof is shingled with random shaded shingles.
Here is what is needed:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7293.JPG&hash=9f2772fdb83b0665a32b20f85055b690973f59b5)
- a template for laying out the shingles (provided in the kit)
- laser cut shingles
- 30% and 50% cool gray Prismacolor markers.
- not pictured is the 3M double-sided transfer tape
Here are the Prismacolor markers. Do no cheap out on this. Get the real markers.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7294.JPG&hash=f1f63da62f7b12715e3fde7c41c8adb22ac62a23)
Using the 30% grey marker one randomly colors about 40% of the shingles. One then colors randomly about 20% of the shingles with the 50% grey marker.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7295.JPG&hash=538d189ad0028e50eb48ea9a61a88e8719424fed)
Once the shingle strips are cut out and mixed up they will provide a random effect once glued to the main roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7296.JPG&hash=3eca362dffe6d950e698e76798b810f25937c05c)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7297.JPG&hash=63140bf9ad2136d4dd4a21bf5795a405842e68c9)
By the way, all of this takes time. But, it is not difficult at all.
Coming up - finishing the main roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Looking good Jaime, well done on the shingles.
Tom ;D
Masterful job on this kit, Jaime! Well done.
John
Looks great. It's all coming together very nicely! :D
OMG! Very well done. But then, we would expect nothing less.
Waiting to see how you handle the ridges.
Howdy.
I appreciate everyone's comments. I hope some with the kit are building it already and will share their build (hint).
Finishing up the main roof here.
The large dormer gets a tad different approach.
First take a look at the shingling template for the hip roofs and the large dormer (from left to right below).
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_LargeDormer.jpg&hash=d2007c946e7ada45f8d9ee138774871d870d1c36) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_LargeDormer.jpg)
The large dormer's roof is cut out of the roof for its hip roof. Keep that in mind...
First one is to make a valley around the large dormer. The instructions direct the modeler to use masking tape for this and then paint it grey.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7298.JPG&hash=43b27c5a9df39bbbda51d0f36e7773da99794c4f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7298.JPG)
I did not take a photo of the valley painted grey so please use your imagination.
Here is the shingle section for the large dormer and its hip roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7299.JPG&hash=84f872d4d4043d482f1aee4b64e1120ac6b519f4) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7299.JPG)
The shingle section for the other hip roof looks just the same.
Here is the back of the large dormer roof shingle section. Note how I had already cut out the dormer roof. I did that prior to putting on the 3M transfer tape. This way the dormer roof was already "cut out" without it being cut out. All I had to do was turn over the shingled section and sliced through the prior cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7300.JPG&hash=535381f49d1684bcb4de51a8ea5779ecfb880046) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7300.JPG)
Voila!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7301.JPG&hash=35123a54f1b43020e260cbbe037d41b82aefd6c4) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7301.JPG)
And here I am test fitting the whole shebang.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7302.JPG&hash=2adcf84f6952870af13754372e449425b6b1dbee) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7302.JPG)
I need to report that even though the whole shingling bit was time consuming it was easy and no trouble at all. Altogether I estimate I spent about 30 hours on shingling the mansard roof and the main roof combined.
Coming up - dormer windows.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Jaime
Enjoying the build - looks great - I hope Santa brings you lots of red and yellow boxes. Merry Christmas to you and Lisa!
Jaime.........
Did you do a PHD program in geometry to get to this ? ? ? ?
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 24, 2014, 01:45:02 PM
Jaime.........
Did you do a PHD program in geometry to get to this ? ? ? ?
Thanx
Bob
SRM has done all the math for you already.
Jaime
Jaime ....
You're deflating me ! ! ! ! Here I thought you were some sort of hero or something.
It really is a cool building none the less..
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 24, 2014, 01:58:06 PM
Jaime ....
You're deflating me ! ! ! ! Here I thought you were some sort of hero or something.
It really is a cool building none the less..
thanx
Bob
:-)
I'm afraid they don't make super hero suits in my size.
Jaime
Looking good, Jamie.
Those Prismcolor markers work well - they are now on my wish list. Pleased to see the valley flashing going on before the shingles. Those little things make a big difference.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 24, 2014, 02:24:59 PM
Quote from: bparrish on December 24, 2014, 01:58:06 PM
Jaime ....
You're deflating me ! ! ! ! Here I thought you were some sort of hero or something.
It really is a cool building none the less..
thanx
Bob
:-)
I'm afraid they don't make super hero suits in my size.
Jaime
They should then. A most excellent job.
Jerry
Howdy.
Here come the dormer windows.
There is nothing too special about how the dormer windows go on. They fit perfectly and I glued them in with Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue.
I did want to point out one thing.
First take a look at how a dormer looks without its window.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7304.JPG&hash=cce32c7d12f482fc83fbf47fe55dcb359894a50d) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7304.JPG)
Now take a peek after adding the dormer window.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7305.JPG&hash=48943587eb8b567d9f43fb55537596228d860051) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7305.JPG)
Did you see that?
The mansard roof form (chipboard) shows through the window. It is not a big deal. But, it was bugging me. So, I blacked out the chipboard behind the window.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7306.JPG&hash=d1da885b229dffd5ad769740b3832e2f49676d13) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7306.JPG)
And now see if you can tell the difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7307.JPG&hash=d7d1f873f1ab9a65b885e839875adcb9f1a85158) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7307.JPG)
It is really not necessary to do what I just showed you. But I wanted to do it and it did not take long to do so I did it.
Here is an overall look.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7308.JPG&hash=1b2c0c7113af1cc3e06a30a3d5ae40e3e633458a) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7308.JPG)
Did I mention already there are 80 windows?
Coming up - finishing up the main roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Jaime
I think painting the clapboard was a good move - it's all about the details. This build is looking great.
Howdy.
Here is how I finished up the main roof.
At this point all that's left is to put in a ridge on the peaks of the roof. To do so one takes a strip of the grey roofing template 1/8 " in width and fold it in half. I did not use the grey roofing template. I used a strip of the shingle paper since I already had cut out some strips when trimming the shingle sheets. Those strips where handy and well, I'm lazy like that.
Here you see how I folded one of those 1/8" strips in half.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7309.JPG&hash=1f60f4e7baa165889d64b04a7fb026a607173418) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7309.JPG)
And here you see how it all ends up in the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7312.JPG&hash=7595bdc37e5ccde4ef41f3d65234ad4599cb34b6) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7312.JPG)
In the past I've taken an envelope and cut the bottom off of it since there is already a nice folded crease there. But then you have to paint that cut out strip from the envelope. Either way, this step is not difficult but it does take patience folding such a narrow strip of paper in half.
I thought I'd mention how I try to keep track of all the little bits and bobs needed during the build. I try to find a small container where I can store all the small parts that are needed as the instructions call for them. I also throw in the small container any extra pieces of stripwood and the like in case I can use them later in the build as shims or bracing or what-have-you. It is very important not to throw away any of the spare shingling as you never know when you will need it.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7310.JPG&hash=401095fbec3068b0d64aba0e8f1bd6ef5c706aa6) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7310.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7311.JPG&hash=c8f3e2631db6b444b2bbd8480740eadea17e7c81) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7311.JPG)
Thanks for tagging along.
Coming up - the tower.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Just a pleasure following along with you.
Jerry
What's up doc?
So I am reading ahead in the instructions book to determine how big of a diorama I'll end up with. South River suggests a diorama 24inches square. That's huge!
What have I gotten myself into?!
Jaime
Jaime
South rivers dioramas are always huge, at 24" He likes to be able to photo them without having the edge show. With this one you could eliminate the backside rock work, the trolley trackwork and the road in front, and end up with something like 16" square. If its your first south river kit, I would build it just as he describes, because you will learn so much.
ed
Quote from: railroaded on December 28, 2014, 01:25:09 PM
Jaime
South rivers dioramas are always huge, at 24" He likes to be able to photo them without having the edge show. With this one you could eliminate the backside rock work, the trolley trackwork and the road in front, and end up with something like 16" square. If its your first south river kit, I would build it just as he describes, because you will learn so much.
ed
Ed,
This is my second South River kit. My first was Ware Knitters (which I almost finished):
http://kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7744
I'm going to build Tucker and Cook like the instructions suggest.
Thanks for the comments.
Jaime
Howdy.
Here comes the tower.
The tower is made up of 4 walls. These walls are shingled with the slate shingles. These shingles are all the basic color.
The 4 walls are laser-cut chipboard forms. To the chipboard one glues the shingles as in previous steps. So, I used my chopper once again to chop me up some shingling.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7313.JPG&hash=7c4aee35e5dd66f6b92bf66076484ce25f8f1039)
The roof of the tower is a solid resin casting. The casting has sharp detail and needs to be painted a medium green color. I spray painted my casting with cheap grey spray paint and then painted with Apple Barrel Indian Green acrylic craft paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7314.JPG&hash=bedfffcc0f4292447b27cafd5dc03ad835153b7f)
The instructions did not specify a green color to use. The instructions did suggest using a medium green with more blue than yellow. Well, I'm artistically challenged so I cannot tell if a green is more blue than yellow (yellow and blue make green). As luck would have it the green I chose was more yellow than blue. Oh well, it's just toy trains.
The 4 walls are trimmed with stripwood painted turquoise. There is one more architectural trim casting that goes between the tower and the roof and it gets painted turquoise as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7315.JPG&hash=beeae97cc043801d81e3aead694fab75c2a97ea6)
And here is the tower all ready to be mounted to the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7316.JPG&hash=9f86a62bb59d2dc09022151a186d8c7b1955151e)
By the way, Tucker has made an appearance and will be supervising the build going forward. Tucker is ready to start generating some revenue as the new year approaches. Somehow, Tucker did not get the memo that I am lazy. He will need the patience of a saint.
And here we see how the tower fits on the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7317.JPG&hash=12cf49195be67365ead0298a26c405d7fa393601)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7318.JPG&hash=ea4309098a974723fe6fe690fe69e59b876bf774)
The main building is almost done. There is only one more step to go.
Coming up - tar paper roofing.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Great work, Jaime, and an excellent thread as always.
Could the cupola roof be weathered copper? The green you chose looks a bit like zinc chromate, which may well be correct for a metal roof repainted in the 50s or so.
dave
Tucker looks like a certain accountant around here tryin' to make a dime off of anything he can
get his fingers in!! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, chit - time to get seruss!!
You be doin' GOOD - this build looks fantastic!
Never knew that you were a professional roofer! 8) 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: deemery on December 28, 2014, 09:18:16 PM
Could the cupola roof be weathered copper? The green you chose looks a bit like zinc chromate, which may well be correct for a metal roof repainted in the 50s or so.
dave
The pilot model from South River does show off the tower's roof as copper with a nice patina on it. I considered buying patina paint. I seem to recall seeing it at the craft store once.
Anyway, once everything is in place I'll see about weathering the tower's roof accordingly.
Jaime
I don't like that green with the turquoise...
Quote from: Randee on December 29, 2014, 03:22:43 AM
I don't like that green with the turquoise...
I came real close to matching the pilot model. I'm off a it. The thought is that the metal roof on the tower has corroded over time to a green patina. I'm not finished weathering the main building so the green will change to a more muted shade by the time it's all over.
I appreciate the feedback though.
I've attached a screen capture of the pilot model found at the South River Modelworks website.
Jaime
Here is my green tower roof for comparison.
You can see as I've explained earlier that mine is more yellow than blue. The instructions point out to use a green with more blue than yellow. But I am not artistic enough to figure that out in advance so I'll need to adjust it before it's all finished.
I'm ok with it even though it could be better.
Jaime
Jaime,
A late NYC/PC green might get you closer to the pic. Great looking build!!
Gary
Quote from: winonarail on December 29, 2014, 09:24:43 AM
Jaime,
A late NYC/PC green might get you closer to the pic. Great looking build!!
Gary
Thanks, Gary.
I'll see if I can match that in one of the acrylic craft paints available.
Jaime
Jaime, you may want to try Folk Art #723 Mystic Green. I think it's pretty close to what you're looking for.
timbob60
Howdy,
Here comes the tar paper roofing.
This part was very straight forward. The kit includes a kraft paper sheet for simulated tar paper roofing. This sheet is ruled on one side and clean on the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7321.JPG&hash=9254ab53b5bb28de98a0bab285e6111a85696b4a)
One sprays the clean side of the sheet with flat black spray paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7322.JPG&hash=b8a2751e577815514cad74dadc1b433a3b9e2843)
In order to simulate the sheen often seen on tar paper roofing one takes a razor blade and scrapes the painted side of the sheet. The result is quite convincing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7323.JPG&hash=acf16e53f166e919ec15e92b5207828d86d0e225)
Using the ruled lines one cuts strips of tar paper 3 scale feet wide. The instructions suggest using the 3M transfer tape to glue the tar paper to the roof cards. There are a few small sections in the main building that get the tar paper roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7324.JPG&hash=fd81508d0f9aec6e8b3a150dac7056fc0e89b2b1)
And here I have the tower on top of the roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7325.JPG&hash=1d1e724a546de47d7630c3249d4213830c56066c)
There is one more feature in the main building. It is a cricket. I was not aware of this cricket. It is basically a section of roofing applied behind the tower to help drain water away from the tower. The form for the cricket was included in one of the card templates in the kit. This cricket also gets the tar paper roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7320.JPG&hash=7683f710b8ffe9a2d456c220eca5b2d46025e060)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7326.JPG&hash=f386a01e193d5bf78800d9960070cc952961bf44)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7339.JPG&hash=62a5f84590c40d2d458543bbb9e23fa2faf80a6e)
That's it for the tar paper. The main building is finished... sort of.
Coming up - I summarize the main building.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Nice trick on the roofing paper!
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 29, 2014, 07:09:39 PM
Nice trick on the roofing paper!
dave
Yep.
When I first read the instructions and it said to do that for the tar paper I wasn't sure what to expect.
Jaime
Jaime:
Very nicely done so far. Looks like lots & lots or work.
Karl
Howdy.
Summarizing the main building.
Even though there are still a few odds and ends that hang on to the main building, it is basically done.
The main building called for aging and weathering clapboard, shingling a mansard roof and the main roof, building the tower and aging and weathering a lot of windows. All the windows so far have fit PERFECTLY. I have not had to sand or trim or fiddle with any of the windows. THAT is a joy and it is well worth the price of the kit. South River kits are top shelf and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
I began building the kit the weekend following Thanksgiving. I've been plugging steady at it whenever possible. It took me about 30 hours to do all the roofs. I used more CA glue on this building alone than I've ever used before. I didn't like CA glue before this build and I still don't like it. I manage to get it where it ought not go no matter how careful I am.
I wasn't sure how all that turquoise would work out. I like it though.
Anyway, here is the main building so far.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7371.JPG&hash=fab6296f4bf3ffca6032b8d9e769d3d4ee259397)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7372.JPG&hash=2544d35126b60edcd5eae8d0fc662ac615bea910)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7373.JPG&hash=2d924c6b2f475fba067138a2a1e29f729c8a9871)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7374.JPG&hash=3a53b3f7068c14687ad8cd0418fb30ab45c27c6d)
Coming up - the link.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Jaime, every thing looks great. The roof really turned out well. You can tell the extra time spent on it paid off. I'm looking forward to see what you do with the rest of the kit.
Wonderful job on the structure and roof, Jaime. The turquoise looks great.
Jeff
Thanks for the feedback. I'm having tons of fun building the kit. I still am very delighted how all the windows just fit in perfectly. Everyone of the windows just fits. It is quite an accomplishment what South River has done.
Jaime
Very nice Jaime. I like how it came out.
8)
Awesome job on that Jaime, your making me want to spend money, but I have to control myself until my skill level gets up as high as you guys.
Sam
Quote from: ollevon on December 31, 2014, 09:51:33 AM
Awesome job on that Jaime, your making me want to spend money, but I have to control myself until my skill level gets up as high as you guys.
Sam
Your skill level will improve as you build kits like this. It is not hard. It is time consuming and tedious though. But it is not hard.
The whole build progresses in small manageable chunks.
Give it a try.
Jaime
Every thing looking superb, and I'm sure that's why you'll be first to get Doug's new "Oyster Hill". I even now like the turquoise- I guess it grows on you.
I would ditch the "puke green" on the tower roof. If the roof is rolled roofing or tarpaper, i think something like the Folk Art Mystic Green already mentioned, or something like these two examples. However if it is a metal roof, an "aged copper" would be the best. Michael has several products and craft paint for doing that.
Everyone's a critic.
::)
Jaime
After you get that tower roof weathered I think it will look fine...just like aged copper. I like it. ::)
A fine job on that main building Jaime.
Really looking forward to your next installment.
Jerry
Howdy.
Here comes the link.
The instructions call the next structure "the link." This is because this structure links the main building to the picking house. It is essentially a covered walkway of sorts.
Building the link is straight forward. There are no new techniques used here. Well, sort of... There are rafter tails and trim on the roof. But other than that everything required to build the link has already been discussed.
So let's get going.
Here is all the materials (except rolled roofing) needed to build the link:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7342.JPG&hash=a96b99074aae3813786e162adfb6ede41424f5d2)
Did you see that?!
The roof card has the rafter tail positions lasered on. And, the crease down the middle of the roof is already scored by the laser.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7340.JPG&hash=e3b58a1ec122c7b004685ce2ce8881f6cbcdb747)
Pretty nifty.
You surely noticed that I already painted the walls above. They get the same treatment as the walls on the main building:
- india ink stain the walls
- diluted white paint
- nail and board markings
- windows
Once the walls are glued together one adds the roof card and then the tar paper rolled roofing.
The rafter tails are pretty straight forward and are done according to this guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7380.JPG&hash=5f9a072ddeec53dfb9d6e9a6800720950020c624)
One new wrinkle introduced to the mix is the trim along the edge of the roof card (rake and eave) as seen above in the illustration that guides the modeler on how to do the rafter tails. This is my second South River kit and this roof trim seems to be standard practice for South River kits. I like it.
Here is how it all ended up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7376.JPG&hash=676cd165dba6baff47f8516c93a9d31315b8dbc3)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7377.JPG&hash=9307a2b090685500961922cbc60601c9977d4d1a)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7378.JPG&hash=745ed807019867eda96cbb7650c42e24997658be)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7379.JPG&hash=cc6bcb599ca699fa4ce648cc413356cb89b68845)
The instructions say to wait before gluing the link to the main building. You see, there is a fire escape that goes above the link and against the building so it is necessary to build the fire escape first and then locate them both on the building so everything matches together.
Coming up - the fire escape.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Great job Jaime. Enjoying this build.......
Brad
Quote from: chooch41 on January 03, 2015, 05:49:23 PM
Great job Jaime. Enjoying this build.......
Brad
Thanks, Brad.
What are you currently working on?
Jaime
Looking great Jaime! Thanks again for all of the photos & commentary about the build.
...as usual, Jaime is doing a dandy job on this one...thanks for the pics and info....
👍👍👍
Howdy.
Thanks for following along, folks.
Here comes the fire escape.
This whole little structure is contained in a sheet of photo-etched brass. Nice! Wait, brass gets soldered. Oh...
The instructions suggest "the soldering-impaired" glue the structure using CA glue instead of soldering as the instruction from Sheepscot Scale Products call for. You see, the fire escape is the same used in an earlier South River kit (Cambridge Crossing). The fire escape kit was designed by George Barrett of Sheepscot Scale Products.
I chose to CA glue my fire escape. In retrospect I should have soldered it.
First step is to cut out the parts from the etched brass sheet. I used a hobby knife with a new #11 blade. In the instructions the photos show South River cutting out the parts with a scalpel.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7381.JPG&hash=d0018686657677a7b3d60a978b6237e0394ecb8f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7381.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7382.JPG&hash=b54ad9435be6f4d5d381f2b9048a61baba3cd294) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7382.JPG)
I used a sanding stick (emory board) to knock back the nub left behind after cutting out the parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7383.JPG&hash=beac1da94e089bd94e912625d475cd04068e8960) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7383.JPG)
With the aid of needle nose pliers I bent the parts as called for in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7385.JPG&hash=7f5ab71c0ceefad625582fd76d1b269f498b7833) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7385.JPG)
Don't be stupid like me and try to bend the brass parts with your pointy tweezers. It hurts when you stab your finger with pointy tweezers. It hurts a lot.
Next one bends back each of the steps/rungs on the fire escape.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7386.JPG&hash=93b3f8f433e92b9e8624eb9a493d0f8909e95543) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7386.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7387.JPG&hash=1e5069abeb1e3ff3a309d1d392ea9a55a680797e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7387.JPG)
The instructions say for one to spray paint the whole structure with flat black spray paint. I wanted to see if I could blacken the whole thing first with A-West Blacken It.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7388.JPG&hash=7a329bb446c648047255f823da92374c1d91f24d) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7388.JPG)
I failed miserably. The shiny coating on the brass kept the Blacken It from doing any good. The Blacken It puddled up on the brass and when it evaporated it left a faint black stain behind. I gave up and opted to spray paint the whole thing later.
Next step is to glue the landings to the stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7389.JPG&hash=a70766e7b6206a029782cc7bbadfed2ad405ac86) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7389.JPG)
I test fit the structure as I went along. To do so, I laid the entire main building on its side and placed the fire escape on top of that. It was precarious work doing all this.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7391.JPG&hash=90528df8470595a9c4ed4950a56e6581cfc63e0f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7391.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7392.JPG&hash=8a37d4318df46c6106de4d9136cba9182e9d5716) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7392.JPG)
I added the handrails once I was satisfied with the stairs and landings.
Here is how it all should end up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7394.JPG&hash=ccb66bc3c9f6453ac38a7049c440f10e30af2227) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7394.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7395.JPG&hash=7db2fecf502c0dd54740874b786e7f01bbdefabc) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7395.JPG)
Here we see the whole structure ready for paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7393.JPG&hash=bd6143337b2ac85a14c5ad05e191e9e2c7dd1bbb) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7393.JPG)
Here is the fire escape painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7397.JPG&hash=d3c7dda1c4dccfbf4689e968746088e73c884a7c) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7397.JPG)
Once the flat black paint was dry I took some rust colored pastel chalks and weathered the fire escape slightly.
And here is the whole affair including the link all glued to the main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7398.JPG&hash=df9dfcbfed761347d36ce36da822845840c320d1) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7398.JPG)
Perhaps you are wondering if Tucker and Cook's staff will have to take a flying leap off the fire escape in order to get to the ground. No. Because the whole shebang is not glued to a base yet, the instructions suggest waiting until later to glue in the ladder that connects the fire escape to the ground.
As the instructions warned earlier it is most helpful to wait and glue the link to the main building after the fire escape is in place. Notice how the link fits under the fire escape and that calls for custom trimming on the fire escape's supports in order to clear the roof of the link.
I spent 8 hours getting the fire escape built.
When I build Cambridge Crossing (http://www.southrivermodelworks.com/page200.html) from South River I plan to solder that fire escape.
Coming up - the picking house.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Jaime,
Great job on the fire escape.
Tom ;D
Looks really cool, Jaime! 8)
John
I'll say it again. Your just doing and excellent job on this build.
Jerry
You've been busy...I'm going to guess that took you all day. Looks Great!
Alan
The fire escape looks great sir.
See there - southern boys can be purty dern talented!
And I don't wan'na to hear that Jeffy and Jimmy boy claimin' that they taught him everythin' that
he knows!!
Howdy.
Here comes the picking house.
One of the processes of making cotton thread involved the receipt of freight. They called this the picking house. This picking house is designed for rail service on this kit.
The picking house is made up of 4 urethane castings and a chipboard roof to which wood shake shingles are glued. The instructions are very detailed in how to paint the castings and assemble the building. Yes, the instructions have one paint the walls and then assemble them.
There is quite the debate on the forums whether to first paint walls on a structure made of castings or assemble the structure made of castings and then paint it. Being the renegade modeler that I am, I will follow the kit's instructions and paint the walls first.
Here is how it all goes.
These are the four urethane castings that make up the picking house. Note how the doors are already cast in place, nice.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7396.JPG&hash=4b9a0f2bfc87f49fe1a62b05380be392c61e75a4) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7396.JPG)
First step is to prime the urethane castings with a brick red color. I used Red Primer from a cheap Walmart spray can (which I can no longer get at my local Walmart). The instructions suggest a red auto primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7399.JPG&hash=c03f8e21eec24e4133219c31decc69b11b52afe2) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7399.JPG)
Touch up the bricks using a brick acrylic color like Georgia Clay mixed with a tiny bit of Charcoal. I used Terra Cotta acrylic paint from Craft Smart which I bought at Michaels. The lintels, sills and headers are painted with Sandstone from Apple Barrel (I used that). The stones are painted with different shades of grey acrylic paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7400.JPG&hash=7813470e1ebdbf41cb6620f74c03351716b68485) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7400.JPG)
Notice I painted the bricked-in windows with a different shade of the Terra Cotta.
Next is an India ink wash on the stones followed by a white wash to simulate mortar lines. The brick mortar lines are simulated with grey pastel chalks. To mix it up a bit one uses some earth-colored pastel chalks to highlight some of the bricks.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7401.JPG&hash=1f3620d79ca73c7804d10c41db92fd4a3cc700ef) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7401.JPG)
Notice I painted the cast-in-place doors with a diluted white acrylic paint.
I glued in the windows which fit perfectly. It is quite a treat to have all the windows fit just right in the wood walls and the urethane walls. I did not have to sand anything to make the windows fit. Kudos to South River.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7402.JPG&hash=c8850a3a433b3b9732203dedf80ffcb7d985e68b) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7402.JPG)
I fine tuned some of the brick by doing another white wash followed by more earth-colored chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7403.JPG&hash=55de25c256851e2934962e2c229b2d31e8e97fa7) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7403.JPG)
I used CA glue to glue the walls together. The instructions suggest clamping the walls for a tight fit. Try that with Hydrocal castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7404.JPG&hash=da94421efdaf88d37da8750911387d970dfb5709) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7404.JPG)
Notice that the walls bent in just a tad when clamped while the CA glue set. The instructions make a note of this and caution the modeler not to overdo it or else the urethane castings will break.
Once I had all the walls glued together I added a stripwood brace at each corner. I glued these in with 5 minute epoxy. This is not in the instructions but I wanted to have some peace of mind that my walls were going to stay put.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7405.JPG&hash=d85568972ac935e20aed346ff159c912e919e863) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7405.JPG)
The castings are so well made that if the glue joints are real tight it is not necessary to fill in cracks and voids. I did not need to fill in any cracks or voids. I merely blended the joints with more of the grey chalk used for the mortar lines.
Coming up - the picking house roof.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
The stonework/bricks look great, Jaime. Nice sticker on the clamp. ;D
Jeff
Excellent brick work!
8)
Looking really good, Jamie. The brick and stone work looks terrific!
Cheers, Mark.
Looking good. Nice job and photos. Maybe a couple of ⅛" square cross braces between the side walls, one at the top and the other at the bottom, would prevent the walls from bowing when clamped.
Howdy.
Thanks for the feedback. Keep it coming.
Here is the picking house roof.
The roof on the picking house is not much different than the other roofs so far. There is a slight twist. The roofing is wood shake shingles. But, they are applied just like the slate shingles.
The roof card is already laser-cut, the rafter tail positions are marked and the center line is already scored. Very nice. Rafter tails and roof trim are applied like they were on the roof on the link.
I got lazy and made me a little jig on my chopper to speed up the rafter tails. I measured it all and set the chopper so I could crank out an endless supply of rafter tails just the right length. There was only minimal trimming needed after the rafter tails were in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7406.JPG&hash=440dbf1eda27c23f7e1d838a8a45f229eea33022) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7406.JPG)
Here you see the rafter tails and roof trim in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7407.JPG&hash=7a2bc14ae3946a88d2d1949d57a4ccdc980b5366) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7407.JPG)
Note that there are two vents on this roof. The vents are solid resin castings spray painted with flat white paint and weathered with grey chalks.
This time around I did not use the 3M transfer tape to glue the shingles. Instead I opted for the Titebond III. This way I had more control over the whole affair.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7408.JPG&hash=7c9858052327e86a5a5c9bcad9ffc98512671384) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7408.JPG)
By the way, the roof on the vents get the trim treatment as well. No rafter tails though. The roof's peak is trimmed with a cap made of two scale 1" x 6" ridge caps.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7409.JPG&hash=8ab46822933b7cf3495b7fb1e8a03bf34e16c233) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7409.JPG)
And here is how it all ended up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7411.JPG&hash=ab93db953b20546b143bee00d0e88e236dd65521) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7411.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7412.JPG&hash=aa60d3f3e4e836c97913d4d0d3163257921c931d) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7412.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7413.JPG&hash=f13a8c9f01df13c4ea8227837313d4b830deceaf) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7413.JPG)
And here is how the whole affair looks so far.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7414.JPG&hash=b1055d584ffcd658262927dc30907710c7e0a01e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7414.JPG)
The roof is weathered according to the instructions in this manner:
1. Take some black pastel chalk and rub it on the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7415.JPG&hash=0c1dd4a22bd5ffeb84b36b5539ea3bf5021228c1) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7415.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7417.JPG&hash=5956dca3df81b30919cf045e77ac725cc85379f8) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7417.JPG)
2. Take some sandstone colored paint and dry brush the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7418.JPG&hash=ed836144f8c586232952797929372ead6f6ffb4a) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7418.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7419.JPG&hash=3ae69148fd0b379d1bba71873e8915e5bd002580) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7419.JPG)
My dry brushing sucks big time. For the life of me I cannot get the dry brushing to do right on my roofs. Oh well, I have to move on...
Coming up - the picking house loading docks.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Jamie,
Just left you feedback on the other forum...no need to beat that dead horse...
Good Work...
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on January 06, 2015, 05:49:23 PM
Jamie,
Just left you feedback on the other forum...no need to beat that dead horse...
Good Work...
Alan
Thanks.
I'm really enjoying this kit. Even though the outbuildings are small, they are full of detail.
Jaime
Wow Jaime
You are moving right along on this build. It is looking great - thanks for all the detailed pictures and instructions - they are going to really help when I get to my build of this kit.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2015, 06:36:35 PM
Wow Jaime
You are moving right along on this build. It is looking great - thanks for all the detailed pictures and instructions - they are going to really help when I get to my build of this kit.
Thanks. You'll need to share your build.
I wonder how others will build Tucker and Cook. Only a couple of days ago did I realize there are no signs to specify what type of business this is. It could be lettered to represent something besides a cotton mill.
Jaime
Jaime,
Absolutely beautiful work painting and weathering the brick and stone. I have been following your build and am impressed, as always, by the clarity of your step by step process. Thank you for taking the time to help each of us live vicariously through your build. I, for one, always pick up ways to improve my modeling.
I struggled with drybrushing until I saw a tip that suggested using a small stencil brush. These are used to stencil walls and have short stiff bristles. I followed that up with a fabric brush from Michaels. It, too, has stiff bristles and is much smaller. I find it just right for adding fine, narrow streaks.
I also find that the paint thickness impacts my drybrushing. I wipe off most of the paint from the brush onto a piece of cardstock, then practice drybrushing on the same card. Then I adjust the paint viscosity until I am satisfied with the character of the streaks.
Jerry,
Thanks for your comments and tips about dry brushing. I'll find a way to try what you've suggested.
Jaime
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 06, 2015, 08:44:46 PM
I also find that the paint thickness impacts my drybrushing. I wipe off most of the paint from the brush onto a piece of cardstock, then practice drybrushing on the same card. Then I adjust the paint viscosity until I am satisfied with the character of the streaks.
Good point!
On roofs, I go 'against the grain', brushing from the bottom to the top. I generally prefer rather stiff bristle brushes for drybrushing. This is my favorite, it's a bristle fan brush that I trimmed into this "spade beard" shape.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 07, 2015, 09:49:31 AM
On roofs, I go 'against the grain', brushing from the bottom to the top. I generally prefer rather stiff bristle brushes for drybrushing. This is my favorite, it's a bristle fan brush that I trimmed into this "spade beard" shape.
dave
I have one of those, I'll try it out.
My Gatorfoam (www.gatorfoam.net) came in today. I thought I'd give it a shot and check out how the diorama might end up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7444.JPG&hash=fd595ce1c8d616edb723521c9dc6fd2ed7ae1399)
Jaime
You're about to use up yur workin' space!! :D :D
Serussly, this build looks super - congrats on your ability, talent, patience and perseverence!!!
I'll even forgive the fact that you're on the wrong side of the river! ::) ::) ::)
Quote from: gnatshop on January 07, 2015, 07:37:40 PM
You're about to use up yur workin' space!! :D :D
I will have to clear my work bench in order for the diorama to fit. I have no clue where I'll end up putting all the stuff on top of the work bench.
Jaime
Looking great Jaime. Thanks again for all of the pics & commentary. I've got this kit, but won't get to it until later this year. I'll be coming back here for pointer for sure!
Looks terrific Jamie.
Yep, when the diorama part of the build starts work bench surface area becomes real scarce in a hurry doesn't it? :)
Hi Jaime:
Very very nicely done. Like the colors.
Karl
Howdy.
I meant to post this update earlier but got sidetracked.
Here come the picking house loading docks.
There are 2 loading docks for the picking house. These are built board-by-board. I like it.
Here is all that's needed for the loading docks.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7420.JPG&hash=5a84e6542d8e442644a8176580f2b4595bddeac0)
I use double-sided tape to "glue" my work to the full size template(s) provided in the kit. Try to find the removable double-sided tape. The permanent kind does OK but you have to be more careful when removing your finished work off the template.
I cheat as much as possible to get everything lined up straight, What I like about the board-by-board builds is that you can pick and choose which pieces of lumber you use.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7421.JPG&hash=4e662d1157f89fe93187289b887b1e25292deef6)
The instructions suggest offsetting the planks over the stringers. It really adds to the build to do that.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7422.JPG&hash=ea69851f324b543705a56a33239c9f6645581bb1)
Here is how the larger of the 2 docks ended up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7423.JPG&hash=47f04d25ff0e889103425498f99ae9e6cdbaf37d)
I used Beacon 3-in-1 glue and CA glue to glue the dock to the picking house.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7424.JPG&hash=4d512691e058dc20f3d94ca73146d6cb39eac602)
Over the smaller of the 2 docks one builds a small roof. To do this one uses the laserboard roof supports, scale plywood planks and tar paper roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7425.JPG&hash=fddd9f6c618401fcbb1cd0afe88aadd893e270de)
Ta-da!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7426.JPG&hash=3c1af6745b12e956bde029ecfec9dc7e72c3f9ab)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7427.JPG&hash=e6159208e51e50456f5e5f54de2d398d9d66bc73)
The whole shebang so far.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7428.JPG&hash=8578bd4c7654631d92b2fb389687ab2d24360169)
Coming up - the dye house.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
👍👍👍
Looks great Jaime. I'll have to look around for the removable style double sided tape. That's a great tool when working off of templates.
Quote from: MAP on January 10, 2015, 06:13:30 PM
Looks great Jaime. I'll have to look around for the removable style double sided tape. That's a great tool when working off of templates.
Thanks Mark.
I usually buy the removable double-sided tape at Walmart. I have seen it at Michaels but it's more expensive there.
I learned that trick at a clinic from Sierra West at the first Expo.
Jaime
I use a lot of regular (permanent) double-stick tape, but didn't know about this removable stuff! A trip to Michaels with a coupon is in order!
dave
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 10, 2015, 07:27:10 PM
I usually buy the removable double-sided tape at Walmart. I have seen it at Michaels but it's more expensive there.
I learned that trick at a clinic from Sierra West at the first Expo. Jaime
Thanks - I ain't bashful about stealin' tips and WallyWorld is my friend !!! ;D ;D ;D
Howdy.
There are only 2 more buildings left and then scenery.
Here comes the dye house.
This is how the instructions start out for the dye house:
"This building is where the dying of the thread and yarn took place. Though diminutive, it is packed with details that give it a lot of character."
Boy! South River wasn't kidding. I've spent one week working on this little guy and I am still not finished. Nevertheless, I must press on.
There are no new building techniques needed to build the dye house. So, I won't bore you with all the scintillating details. There are however 2 wrinkles thrown in to keep it interesting.
This is all that's needed to build the dye house minus the roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7429.JPG&hash=4e90f4f746faa5e27eb684bdc431c4b3113a692c)
There is a slight wrinkle in the painting of the clapboard walls. After applying the black alcohol stain one dry brushes the walls with sandstone colored paint. Then one applies the white paint so as to show some of the sandstone underneath. The goal is to end up with a layered look thus given the walls some depth.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7430.JPG&hash=f368a61817007e1efb3f20c5a167f4ff799d987e)
The windows get some vents added to them in their lower half. The vents are made up of a metal casting and some laserboard. They were painted grey.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7431.JPG&hash=32292426b51b83219a67fff4f38166bea92e40ce)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7433.JPG&hash=be20b290b01d9a7afe6c0674dde193de43c0858c)
And here you see the walls all painted up and windowed up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7438.JPG&hash=388c274a29fece7658cea6c80fd1f2c50577ee0a)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7439.JPG&hash=9f1064764ebf42dc1dc908a0584bbe484a032118)
And here we see the dye house assembled along with a vent on the roof. Note I assembled this vent the correct way this time around :-)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7440.JPG&hash=201651d311ac0b77c30cfeec608dbc9d103cc832)
After applying the rafter tails and roof trim the second wrinkle comes into play. The roof is tar papered sparingly and then wood shake shingles are applied on top so as to expose some of the tar paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7442.JPG&hash=4640c11f15b9cb71dbef3e166bf06ab224fc8860)
And here is the dye house all roofed up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7445.JPG&hash=b3cb65e6c9fe071fd10748f8aece9cdd988d289f)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7446.JPG&hash=094b35f31b2a702a99d229e002c58840ee904c99)
There is one loading dock, building support, stairs, roof over stairs and various other detail castings needed before it is all over.
Coming up - the dye house loading dock and building support.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
...great work Jaime....
Thanks for all the feedback. It keeps things interesting when folks have something to say about the build.
The puke green conundrum.
So I went to Michaels yesterday to try to redeem my puke green roof on the main building's tower. I searched high and low for the Mystic Green many suggested. I had no luck.
But, I don't give up easily.
On the way to the Michaels I took a photo of a roof that could represent this roof on Tucker and Cook. Here it is:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075415.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075415.jpeg)
The roof you see above is of a church steeple of some old church here in town. There are tons of churches here in town. Why at some intersections one could find 4 churches (one at each corner).
Anyway, here is the selection of Folk Art greens at Michaels:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075522.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075522.jpeg)
Can you begin to appreciate my dilemma. And this is only the Folk Art section. Michaels over by my house also carries Americana brand and their house brand Craft Smart. How is a guy supposed to choose!?!
Well, I settled on this:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/16-110115075616.jpeg)
Folk Art makes a paint called Patina. Why how convenient...
You can see how the Folk Art Patina is close to the color on that old church steeple roof.
Wish me luck, if I muck up this I'm taking up stamp collecting.
Jaime
So I had a question from THE Runner earlier in the build. This guy THE Runner has won multiple Best Of Show awards at major model contests and he is asking me how to do something. THE Runner must be losing it.
Anyway, THE Runner wanted to know how I made my rafter tail assembly set up. I guess we all struggle with rafter tails.
Here is what I've been doing for this build:
1. Measure the angle and length of the required rafter tails:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7461.JPG&hash=59310550a1ef8b07739a4d8ad1859d359a72a41a) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7461.JPG)(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7461.JPG&hash=218aa9ce4cd924fc93d203cbdd5fabdbea6b68f8) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7461.JPG)
2. Transfer the measurement of the required rafter tails to my Chopper:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7462.JPG&hash=01063dfcd494e91c435c37e91cbbd844bd83ba90) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7462.JPG)(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7462.JPG&hash=73537dca4564ecc0585c9061cc4f3e5a417f6070) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7462.JPG)
3. Build a jig on my Chopper to make it easy to supply the stripwood into the Chopper:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7464.JPG&hash=747f07b9413807b5875752f9e060c3154791ca7c) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7464.JPG)(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7464.JPG&hash=6823923c7e0aa994197b64a9fa1088880494c553) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7464.JPG)
I glued two lengths of stripwood on the Chopper's cutting mat above in order to make a channel where I could feed the rafter tail stripwood into the Chopper's blade.
GET TO THE CHOPPER !!!
Jaime
Nice work on the dye house. But I'm not sure if that much exposed tar paper looks good. I would add some individual shingles in those areas and just leave a very small amount of tar paper showing though. The shingles could be askew a bit as if only one nail was holding them on.
I like your choice of green! You can always add a color to it to lighten or darken it.
8)
Jaime
The shed looks fine. A nice job. I assume the roof stills need to be weathered?
Looking forward to you next move.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on January 11, 2015, 03:45:00 PM
Jaime
The shed looks fine. A nice job. I assume the roof stills need to be weathered?
Looking forward to you next move.
Jerry
Thanks.
I will have the roof weathering photos later. The weathering is done like the picking house roof.
Jaime
Howdy.
There is one loading dock for the dye house and it gets built pretty much like the previous loading docks. Also, the dye house sits on scale 4"x4" supports. As much as I dislike CA glue, I had to use it to glue the 4"x4" supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7447.JPG&hash=afd7291e7176ef888fcb71b2201fd6a6fd452323)
To these 4"x4" supports one glues diagonal supports. I decided to wait until it was all glued in place to apply the black alcohol stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7449.JPG&hash=df8471e37e8d2d3c649cc1bbea35cf2f752f15b7)
Note I added a view block to the inside of the dye house. This was not in the instructions.
The kit includes enough material to make stairs for the loading docks. Once glues risers to laser-cut stringers made from laserboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7450.JPG&hash=45cdc4220094d89da068f8db0ba26c29a542a24b)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7451.JPG&hash=f59956b2c827b616cab340b0962388760ce99161)
I used a pair of rail nippers to cut the made up stairs to the desired lengths.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7452.JPG&hash=a34b5d7460fbbfcb7fe36771d7b3a08b43c15eaf)
And here is how those will go.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7453.JPG&hash=e91c08ce03d3a2f0f314ae39f1ae691e3adb7791)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7454.JPG&hash=2eae9786bdb84a3a820f57f396744cee190aa2bf)
The instructions say to stain the stripwood risers with black alcohol stain and then match the stringers. Well, I am going to cheat and not stain the risers and just spray paint everything an earth tan color and then stain with black alcohol.
Here is a look at the loading dock with its 4"x4" supports like those on the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7455.JPG&hash=1641356f9c0e117439a381a52d1cf99023c11c82)
There are some roof detail castings and a roof for the loading dock I'll add later. For now I want to move on to the next structure.
Coming up - the boiler house, the last building before scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Everything is looking real good Jaime.
The build is lookin' great, but that dern accountant is still lookin' to make a dollar out of this somehow!!
Watch him - he'll try to stuff some yarn in his briefcase to save on toilet paper!!! ;D ;D ;D
This old dog learned a new trick from Jaime. I made my very own rafter tail jig. The building i am working on needs 62 of these little critters.
Hey, I like your new Patina Green. It should look cool. How about this idea? Practice on some scrap dry brushing a little "copper" or "brass" Folk Art over the new Patina Green in a few spots to show what's under the patina. Cuz we know you love dry brushing.
Looking forward to the fun scenery part of the build. BVG does a really great job on his scenery ideas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120115232730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-120115232730.jpeg)
Howdy.
Here comes the last building in the kit , the boiler house.
Just like the link that connects the main building to the picking house, the boiler house connects to the main building and to a tall chimney/smokestack.
The boiler house is made up of a combination of clapboard and brick walls. Everything covered so far about working with clapboard and brick is used here. There is one new twist to the boiler house. The boiler house has a metal roof above its brick portion. This was done to contain any fires that may have started in the boiler.
Here is what all is needed to build the boiler house.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7457.JPG&hash=93bf0d5f699b08b7548c0b714b067eef2e112031)
By the way, the tall smokestack to the boiler house is built later on in the instructions but I decided to go ahead and sart it now 'cause it and the metal roofing get primed with the same red primer. Yes, you read correctly. The instructions say to prime the metal corrugated roofing with red primer.
And here are the walls all weathered and ready for assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7458.JPG&hash=2b23f7c3ea2abf8c410afeff3adf51efe62909de)
That was easy :-)
And here you see how the boiler house and smokestack fit in against the main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7459.JPG&hash=d6dd4b950023a8c7b3c8e530a0fba4322d43638b)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7460.JPG&hash=bceb44f7496595ecc043960d26d83e6f4f67c86b)
The section of the boiler house with the wood walls gets roofed with the tar paper roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7468.JPG&hash=671427baa24c1030274d04981d2f21d9ac8f893a)
The corrugated metal roofing was cut up into 3 scale feet widths and primed with red primer. The brick section of the boiler house gets the corrugated metal roofing. To do that one needs to staggered the first layer and then overlap the second layer on top of the first layer.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7469.JPG&hash=87d6e91b648eb03fb8763b2e4bc24535f4a2d89c)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7470.JPG&hash=e39e195b4178104e3651347ec745cf8706721c64)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7471.JPG&hash=f0177bea9e33159bb627ea8ca847533dd72a976d)
The instructions direct the modeler to use the 3M transfer tape to glue the metal roofing to the roof card. I did not do that. I used both Beacon 3-in-1 glue and Walthers Goo for that job.
The ridge caps for the metal roofing are made up of well, metal roofing. I cheated here. You see, the panels for the metal roofing were a tad longer than needed. In the photo below you see an untrimmed metal panel on the left. On the right you see a trimmed metal panel and the extra roofing left over. I used that extra roofing as the ridge cap. Here I did as the instructions suggest and bent the ridge cap piece in half. You can see a bent ridge cap just above the untrimmed metal panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7473.JPG&hash=bc627f5ab24532ea5c71b4ef9eefe89367c982ff)
And here you have the boiler house all roofed up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7474.JPG&hash=88e857d022ebe701aa657fef5a7195a117f66546)
I'll take the next thread update to go over how to weather the corrugated metal roof.
Coming up - weathering the boiler house metal roof, the last step before building scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Nice brickwork Jaime. You're really doing a bang-up job with this one.
Quote from: MAP on January 15, 2015, 07:25:20 AM
Nice brickwork Jaime. You're really doing a bang-up job with this one.
Thanks.
I'm getting close to the part I'm not very good at, scenery.
Jaime
Howdy.
Here is how to weather the corrugated metal roof.
I've had a devil of a time with previous kits when it comes to weathering corrugated metal. I just cannot get rid of the shiny bits altogether. Therefore, I followed South River's instructions to a fault for this part.
The corrugated provided in the kit is made by Northeastern Scale Lumber. It is very shiny.
First I will summarize the instructions and then I'll show you how I did it.
- prime the corrugated metal with a red primer from a spray can (or airbrush)
- affix the corrugated metal panels to the roof card using 3M transfer tape
- heavily dry brush in the direction of the corrugation with rust and red colors
- lightly dry brush with a medium grey in the direction opposite the corrugation
- use a bit of earth tone color chalks and rust color chalks to accent and blend the panels
Here I go.
Already I've shown how I did not use the 3M transfer tape to affix the corrugated metal panels to the roof card. I used Beacon 3-in-1 and Walthers Goo. I wanted some working time with the panels.
First I dry brushed in the direction of the corrugations of the corrugated metal panels with rust and red tone acrylics. I used several colors. I dry brushed each subsequent color on top of the other. These are the colors I used in the order I used them:
1. terra cotta
2. burnt sienna
3. yellow ochre
4. grey (because I wanted some of the unrusted corrugated metal to "show through")
5. raw umber
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7475.JPG&hash=dda069fb114d393fb93cdfe6c6960880b720c913)
Next I used country grey from Apple Barrel to lightly dry brush in the direction opposite the corrugation. This highlights the ridges of the corrugated panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7476.JPG&hash=2602dd6930cda1b8127c77e72ffae860f16083df)
Next I took some pastel chalks to blend in the panels. I used 3 different colors as seen below in the order seen below from front to rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7477.JPG&hash=f0b17b2f45eed2c16ac3c9c9366c79f21083650e)
Applying pastel chalks is easy. Basically rub or scrape the chalk stick over the area you need to weather depositing the chalk dust on the surface and then take a brush and brush the dust about.
Here is a comparison of the rusted corrugated metal panels and the unrusted primed corrugated metal panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7478.JPG&hash=26a0bc17dd9f9e758b3bd3a9f6c9138f61bee783)
And here is how the boiler house looks in place (the smokestack is not yet finished).
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7479.JPG&hash=090dd1eaf0c3b8e190f6dfe9a47bb0bb480becce)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7480.JPG&hash=f3f9bfd3bf64172948089112180c812ae93226d6)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7481.JPG&hash=72811a1cb11180912e9daa15054ac31cd48bbc72)
That is basically it for the buildings/structures. All that is left that is not scenery is the smokestack, a coal bin, a sluice gate, some rock walls and some telephone/power/traction poles.
Coming up - laying out the diorama and scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Nice work on the tin roof Jaime. I like the weathering effect you accomplished using the combination of paint & chalk. It is difficult getting rid of the "shiny bits" that always seem to appear on the edges...looks like you covered them very well. I see that Bob VG has been following your build thread.
Quote from: MAP on January 16, 2015, 07:18:31 AM
Nice work on the tin roof Jaime. I like the weathering effect you accomplished using the combination of paint & chalk. It is difficult getting rid of the "shiny bits" that always seem to appear on the edges...looks like you covered them very well. I see that Bob VG has been following your build thread.
Thanks.
This method of weathering the corrugated metal was new to me and it was more effective in keeping the shiny bits away than others I've tried. I have yet to try the etchant method of weathering the corrugated metal.
Jaime
Jaime,
Great job all the way around. Gold Stars for this build my friend.
Tom ;D
Jaime nice job on the roof. That is one of my downfalls metal roofing.
If your scenery comes out half as good as the buildings you'll have a right fine diorama.
Jerry
Howdy.
I try to stop and take an assessment of where I am along the build when I get to a good stopping point. I am currently waiting for stuff to glue on my diorama base so this is a good place to stop and make an assessment.
On average I spend abut 90 minutes per day working on the build. I don't get to work on the build every day but I average about 90 minutes per day altogether. I started the build the weekend of Thanksgiving on 2014. I've been building the kit for 7 weeks.
At one point I was tracking how much time I spent on my builds. When I tracked over 200 hours for one build I decided, "what's the purpose?" I mean, this is supposed to be fun so why bother?
I no longer track how long I spend building these kits. However, something I can track easily is the following:
- I have posted 191 photos to the build thread.
- I have made 28 build updates to the build thread
It takes me on average about 1 minute to set up a photo, take the photo, suck the photo out of the camera, edit the photo on my laptop and upload the photo to my website.
It takes me on average about 30 minutes to gather my notes and type up each build update I post to the build thread.
So, I have spent about 3 hours and 15 minutes doing nothing but photo work for the build. And, I have spent about 14 hours doing nothing but blabbing about the build on the build thread.
Therefore, I'm signing off for the night as those 17 hours and 15 minutes is time I did NOT spend building the kit.
Coming up - laying out the diorama and scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Nice work on the structure, Jaime. The shiny bits on the metal are why I now use the Northeastern paper product, but you did a great job on the roof. I know it takes a lot of time to post these build threads (yours more than mine as you go into a great more detail), but we all really appreciate your efforts.
Jeff
Great job Jaime! You've done a great job so far. And the leaves got raked too. Raymo
Howdy.
Thanks to all following along and thanks to those providing feedback.
I cleaned my workbench entirely in order to fit the diorama on it.
Here is an overview of how it all looks on the diorama base I've chosen.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7484.JPG&hash=b84330f8c7318f952017ccd20bddb9d15ce6f2ad) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7484.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7485.JPG&hash=fc58d4a7f70fa8b183a0a30bad63e4f4e5a905b0) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7485.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7486.JPG&hash=7710c68eb53fa50aeb617c6e1048d85351d1d469) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7486.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7487.JPG&hash=aff03033270d18a632f09851e401f25835491603) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7487.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7488.JPG&hash=9430117856091181340e799211701fae4708a26c) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7488.JPG)
I decided to go with a 2' x 2' diorama base as suggested in the instructions. I purchased my Gatorfoam diorama base direct from www.gatorfoam.net (http://www.gatorfoam.net). I bought the base already painted in an earth tone to help me blend in the scenery once I get started. The base is 1/2 inch thick.
Here you see how the instructions suggest one layout the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7489.JPG&hash=010d1702f045b94d7bfe6c2cdc91b39bed30b48e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7489.JPG)
Note that at the front of the diorama is a road, then the train tracks, then the buildings and in the rear is a river. In actuality this is all based on the prototype so those wishing to incorporate it into a layout have some freedom. South River had specific plans for their diorama so the layout they chose fit that purpose.
I have no layout so I have all the freedom I need to build this diorama. Therefore, I chose this layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7490.JPG&hash=2a2e78261c2c9faed9a987ab818ab482d7f0b262) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7490.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7491.JPG&hash=4d500b1f7fc3e2ae8e47cc78683dded82ac75d14) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7491.JPG)
I have marked the river behind the complex on my diorama base.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7492.JPG&hash=b2e9ac0295c96db354fafddc6e08b944eb76379d) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7492.JPG)
I used some Liquid Nails for Projects to glue some extra blue insulation foam to add height to my diorama base. I intend to follow along with the instructions and add height to my scene by dropping the scenery into the river.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7494.JPG&hash=0b774d22b17b6275e998370a8aa94caf4c683da1) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7494.JPG)
I bough the Liquid Nails at Lowes. The Liquid Nails people have a wide variety of products. I chose their cheapest offering since I'm not building the Taj Mahal here.
Here is a look of how I'm already adding height to the scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7493.JPG&hash=d13efff20445a5bf5b65f597f91eedada9ec027e) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/modelers/SRM_370_IMG_7493.JPG)
I now wait for the Liquid Nails to set up.
At this point I am all caught up with the build. What you see above is exactly what I have on my workbench. Therefore, it may be a few days before I have anything new to add. But don't let that keep you from contributing. And, if anyone else is building Tucker and Cook, join in!
Coming up - scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Great job Jaime. Jim
Looks fantastic, Jamie!
Thanks for taking so much of your valuable modelling time to post this. Looking forward to your diorama building.
Cheers, Mark.
Howdy.
Well, I got bit by the scenery bug so I began working on the front of the diorama.
I've mentioned already that that I did not want a flat scene. Therefore, I decided to slope down my road running in front of the complex and raise the opposite corner of the road.
But first, I need to make sure I have the track and road in place correctly. I marked it all as best I thought it should go.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7495.JPG&hash=3117edc18079c4cd427d5b403124328e838d7aac)
I wanted to have the track service the complex. In South River's diorama the track serves a trolley line instead. I needed to check the track's clearance from the buildings.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7496.JPG&hash=7d5a0d4611eb3119e66bcab9ba8031341a05f8c5)
Oh oh...
Yep, I am awful close to the track.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7497.JPG&hash=a1e111fb2831cb76a00b458e2d7343d51709500b)
I will have to deal with the clearance later. I have enough room to move the buildings back.
I carved out a trench in the foams in order to dip the road down to the front of the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7498.JPG&hash=82800a2baebbde0da891ffbc1e38b32bc9eb5bbd)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7499.JPG&hash=006f21473bdb1e4dc9af8d1a932ab18cdc2de89b)
I am going to use Sculptamold to fill in the scenery. The road I cut out from a calendar printed on styrene.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7500.JPG&hash=9582f4c78a89ec621801a8874514890547c4b275)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7501.JPG&hash=c7ffdd122c22a2942a5820314d3ba32893152c6f)
Working with Sculptamold is fairly easy. If one is careful a mess can be avoided. Sculptamold gives the modelers about 20-30 minutes working time. However, it takes Sculptamold about 2 days to dry.
Coming up - the river and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Looks great Jaime! I'm real interested in how you like the sculptamold for finishing your land forms.
I know how much time it takes to write and take good photos, and I certainly appreciate it!
dave
Quote from: S&S RR on January 18, 2015, 07:03:12 PM
Looks great Jaime! I'm real interested in how you like the sculptamold for finishing your land forms.
I love working with Sculptamold. It is easy to prepare. It gives you plenty of working time as long as you keep it wet while working it. When dry it takes paint real well. It is very lightweight.
Unfortunately, I cannot get it locally. I bought that new bag pictured above from Dick Blick. There is no Dick Blick here in town so I had to mail order it.
Give it a try. It's way cool.
Jaime
Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2015, 07:38:31 PM
I know how much time it takes to write and take good photos, and I certainly appreciate it!
dave
It's my pleasure sharing the build on the forum. I too benefit from my own notes.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 18, 2015, 08:13:38 PM
Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2015, 07:38:31 PM
I know how much time it takes to write and take good photos, and I certainly appreciate it!
dave
It's my pleasure sharing the build on the forum. I too benefit from my own notes.
Jaime
Jaime
You make a great point, I'm finding myself looking back at my layout build thread to remember how I did things - it really helps with paint colors. Any comments about age and forgetfulness are better left unsaid ;) .
Howdy.
Here is how I got started on the river.
The pilot model has a dramatic drop off behind the main building into the river. In typical South River fashion there are some cool waterfalls/cascades. I want to try that.
To rough in some cascades in my river I cut into the foam base and roughed in some terraces in the river's landform. Once I come back with some sort of plaster to form the river bed I'll blend it all in with the river banks.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7503.JPG&hash=933e3f79e783351d10d11c283f2b6d960aed9dfc)
Here is a perspective as though standing across the river from the complex.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7504.JPG&hash=8b059ea5e49bb837edb53bab6d9d0e487f50f852)
And here is a view of the front of the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7506.JPG&hash=74e815eb947c2bc2f74cacdfb49650eeec8696fe)
Coming up - preparing the base for buildings and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Looking forward to a lesson in making a river ;)
Looking forward to see how you do the river.
Jerry
Howdy.
Thanks for following along.
The instructions do a great job of guiding the modeler in building the diorama. Even though I am following the instructions I am not following them in the same order presented in the manual. Scenery is not a linear process for me. I tend to wander and waver with it. I am making an effort to stick to the instructions as much as possible though.
Before roughing in the landforms the instructions suggest making a set of risers for the buildings. To do this one takes 1/8" stripwood to mark the perimeter of all the structures. This is done to give the landscape a chance to slope away from the buildings to allow for drainage as it is done in real life. The instructions give the modeler the option to omit this step but stress that the effect this provides is desirable.
So I took some 1/8" square stripwood and glued it to the perimeter of the structures. Before that though I marked the perimeter directly to the diorama base with a pen.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7507.JPG&hash=3cbf2bba186815175a7aab267a3db216be9e59b0)
I am now committed to the diorama's layout.
Next one takes Sculptamold and lays out the finished grade. In the instructions the entire base is covered with Sculptamold. I did not do that. I am still working out some areas' elevations so I am not quite ready to finish the entire grade for my diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7508.JPG&hash=0b8517c7ce0d98bb989d40b6abea9d3e1cd049f2)
Bob VanGelder does a great job of stressing that the grade must meet the structures so as to depict the structures in the ground and not on the ground. I am not sure I can describe the process in a manner that does it justice. I will summarize it for you though:
- apply the Sculptamold with a 1" putty knife
- with a wet brush work the Sculptamold up to each building's edge (or riser's edge in this case)
I own one of the Scotty Mason DVDs that features Bob VanGelder explaining this process. If you do not already own this DVD you should consider buying it. The one you want is volume III. Here is a current link to the Scotty Mason site for that DVD:
http://www.scottymason.com/#!shop/ctw8
I wish to point out one new scenery technique to me found in this section of the build. VanGelder directs the modeler to place the track directly into the wet Sculptamold. One paints the Sculptamold where the track goes a dark earth color and then sets the track into the Sculptamold. I deviated a bit and instead tinted my Sculptamold with acrylic paint while I was mixing it. I did not use enough paint and that area turned out way too light. I will have to fix that later.
Here is a view of how my structures look on top of their risers while the Sculptamold dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7509.JPG&hash=529acd27843199d2c98ed3e470742abbc318b47c)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7510.JPG&hash=de2b2815314e7839d9a0f7546455e0b1448223ea)
I have not glued down the structures as I am still debating adding some features to the diorama that will require the structures not be glued yet.
Coming up - the road and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
Good info on using risers for the base. I hadn't though of that and it looks easy enough to do.
Sure looks good with your buildings.
8)
Howdy.
Before I get to the road I wanted to point out the base for the sluice gate and a retaining wall that go behind the main building. Both of these are urethane castings that are primed with grey and then weathered with the black alcohol and earth colored chalks. This is how I located those:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7514.JPG&hash=4d9697ea89193e3b01f29ba4be7df3ecb94377bc)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7518.JPG&hash=c93448a5d1301fb3b3535cc77a2e34eb143f03e2)
Now on to the road.
Before I describe how I did my road I'll summarize how the instructions direct the modeler to do the road.
- use Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty for the road's surface
- smooth the road surface with a damp sponge while the putty is set but not dry (approximately 30 minutes after mixing the putty)
- let dry overnight
- once the putty is dry use a needle tool to scribe cracks on the surface
- paint and weather road after all other scenery is finished to avoid damaging the road's surface
I chose not to use the Durham's water putty. Instead, I chose to use CrackSHOT from DAP.
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CrackSHOT goes on pretty easy and it can be smoothed without difficulty with a wet putty knife.
I learned a trick when building a Fine Scale Miniatures kit a while back. If you take a wet sponge brush and "paint" the road surface it leaves a pretty smooth finish.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7516.JPG&hash=e473b2c38200a0ff31489ab5a7158624c91b1b91)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7517.JPG&hash=e9ccc14495eb5ed8d4c61526d241d307ee709e51)
The CrackSHOT container says it can be painted or sanded after 1 to 5 hours of applying it. That was not my experience. It took a day for my CrackSHOT to set enough to be sanded or painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7519.JPG&hash=92de186ddd3f2f8c81a8c35069d51db579fbdc81)
Even though my CrackSHOT road did not crack (YEAH!!!), it did set with pits and dibets. I decided to apply a second thin coat to cover these imperfections.
After the second coat dried I used a plastic card to scrape the road surface even instead of sanding.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7520.JPG&hash=3f18ea6ceab683ce553304cb3c731c0ef6d71730)
I have not decided yet if I will wait until later to paint my road.
Coming up - rockwork and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
The King should move over.
Another new (to me) technique/product (CrackSHOT) for making roads that I need to try! Cool. ;D
I used Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty one time to make a road. They ain't kidding about the Rock Hard part. :o You better get it right before it dries completely.
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 23, 2015, 10:26:09 AM
Another new (to me) technique/product (CrackSHOT) for making roads that I need to try! Cool. ;D
I used Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty one time to make a road. They ain't kidding about the Rock Hard part. :o You better get it right before it dries completely.
I used Durham's once on the club layout when I lived in Tupelo some 20 years ago. It works fine but man do you need to get it right before it sets.
I like the CrackSHOT even if it takes a day to dry.
Jaime
In regards to road making material, I have used a combination approach. I start with the Durham's, making an attempt to get it as smooth as possible and then, after it cures, apply a thin layer of spackle to smooth out the surface. The thin spackle drys pretty quickly, but I prefer the Durham's for the carving properties.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10423670_10204549634647039_8634235769000292536_n.jpg?oh=2cae2c5d41d6b4e6aa2682c4e9a66680&oe=55226F0B&__gda__=1428874525_a220f0c066698359aa30ffbbc5c05f81)
I am really enjoying the build, Jamie. I particularly like the diagonal orientation on your diorama.
Matt
Quote from: restocarp on January 23, 2015, 11:00:20 AM
In regards to road making material, I have used a combination approach. I start with the Durham's, making an attempt to get it as smooth as possible and then, after it cures, apply a thin layer of spackle to smooth out the surface. The thin spackle drys pretty quickly, but I prefer the Durham's for the carving properties.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10423670_10204549634647039_8634235769000292536_n.jpg?oh=2cae2c5d41d6b4e6aa2682c4e9a66680&oe=55226F0B&__gda__=1428874525_a220f0c066698359aa30ffbbc5c05f81)
I am really enjoying the build, Jamie. I particularly like the diagonal orientation on your diorama.
Matt
Thanks Matt.
I had not considered mixing mediums for road surfaces. That is a pretty clever trick.
One twist about the road in the instructions is that Bob VanGelder airbrushed the paint onto the road. I don't plan to do that though. I plan to use latex paint brushed on with a sponge brush. I don't plan to carve any potholes on my road. The CrackSHOT dried with a few small pits that give the road enough "character."
Jaime
On our module for the EXPO in 2013, I used sanded grout applied thinly over cork roadbed. I liked the thought that it had sand in it and would add texture to the road surface. It depends on what "look" you want.
Howdy.
While the Scultpamold dried I made a fascia for my diorama, I went to Home Depot and bough the cheapest flat latex tan paint I could find (Dapper Tan from Glidden), I painted my diorama's base with the tan paint, my curiosity got the best of me and I painted the road with scenery black.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7521.JPG&hash=91b4a9c62e1417811d8512e3c3f1c8958dc1a8b8) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7521.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7522.JPG&hash=4a5c7e29c6b826d3e6857dc51145eb8996eb69c3) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7522.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7523.JPG&hash=29da66d8390ca2c0f50ac26de6e2afbe40516432) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7523.JPG)
If you are not familiar with scenery black look up Dave Frary's scenery techniques on the web. Scenery black is 2 parts tan (the tan used on your diorama/layout for dirt) and one part flat black. Here is a short video by Dave Frary that explains some of this:
In the instructions manual Bob VanGelder references Dave Frary's books and work as good resource for building scenery.
Coming up - rockwork and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Well we have some progress here. Nice work Jaime.
Looking forward to some dirt and stuff though.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on January 29, 2015, 09:38:55 AM
Well we have some progress here. Nice work Jaime.
Looking forward to some dirt and stuff though.
Jerry
Thanks.
I've been applying dirt. I had to go buy rock molds and plaster so I was delayed. I'll have an update in the next couple of days.
Jaime
Why are we not seeing more dirt here?
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116121&hash=69172edf00767700623c09aafc813c3a231ceeb2)
Yo!
These are still available from South River so if you want one you best get a move on.
Word to your mother.
Jaime
WOW Jaime, this is turning out AWESOME, very nice work.
Sam
Jamie, I'm glad to see the details of doing the scenery part of the build. We don't have enough of these posts and appreciate you doing it.
Thanks
Marty
Howdy.
You all thought I was gone. Didn't you?
I've been delayed by deadlines at work and a lack of scenery materials. But I am moving forward a bit at a time.
I am hoping to be done with the build by Valentine's Day. It will be tight. If I go over that is OK. But, I need to give myself some deadline or else I'll abandon the build as I have done in the past with other kits.
I'll touch a bit on how I did the dirt on my diorama and then I'll discuss how I did the rockwork for the river's embankments.
Before I did the dirt I searched for some references out on the internet. I found this way useful video by Joey Ricard from Trackside Scenery:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWqM5Dv1MA0
I will follow Joey's methods except I will be using sanded grout instead of real dirt.
Here is what I used for the dirt.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7525.JPG&hash=70f3346c6d3f0a2007614180f482cfeb3e50fa76)
- White glue
- Tan latex paint
- Dirt Glue (1 part white glue and 1 part tan latex paint)
- Cheap hair spray
- Sanded grout
- A small cup to sift out the grout
I did just as Joey Ricard says to do:
- paint the scenery base with tan latex paint
- wait for paint to dry
- apply Dirt Glue
- apply dirt on wet Dirt Glue
- apply cheap hair spray on the dirt right away (soak it all real good)
- wait for all that to dry (it took over a day for me)
- brush off all loose dirt
Ricard tells you to come back with sanding paper and sand down your dirt after it dries. I did not do that. When I brushed off all the loose grout I ended up with the same color as the grout was dry. Dirt doesn't always do that. Ricard sands down his dirt to get it a lighter color than it dries.
It all went OK for me except one thing, grout balls up when it gets wet.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7526.JPG&hash=f41e230995839e01377bbd0298fffbba7f702bcd)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7527.JPG&hash=55af8dae8e4b80fec118c159cca546c62a78128b)
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Once I let the grout dry thoroughly (2 days) I brushed off any loose grout and the little grout balls went away for the most part. I still need to add ground cover and grass so I am confident those little grout balls won't be visible in the end.
To make the river's embankments I needed rock castings and plaster. I must confess I am a terrible model railroader. I went to my local hobby shop looking for Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hydrocal to make the rock castings. They want $12 for a 2 lb carton of the Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hyrdrocal. No way was I paying that price! Instead I went to Michaels and bought a 4 lb tub of Plaser of Paris for $6 and used a 40% off coupon for an ever bigger discount. Sorry if I cause my LHS to go under. I did buy the rock molds at the LHS though.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7529.JPG&hash=c31f314dd6ec2d34593a6fa74f2bc10a9775c76f)
I gathered up some rock castings and went to imagineer how the river embankments could look.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7524.JPG&hash=2e6fb85f7feb0cab82b00478fa9fa26384842112)
I slathered on the rock castings on the embankments and waited for that dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7530.JPG&hash=95aba770f0cf82e3b2a14da348a2b2ca56df7ee4)
Once that was dry I came back with Sculptamold and blended the castings into the landscape.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2Fmodelers%2FSRM_370_IMG_7531.JPG&hash=43cc6b431e0eae8648f772f50240849cb936ec42)
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I now wait for the Sculptamold to dry before I can paint me a river.
Coming up - the river and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
I'm sure glad you didn't have to go into the office and took the time to show us your progress. ;D
Yes nice how to. Looks good so far.
If it doesn't come out right you can always "Cry me a River"!!!! :)
Jerry
Nice Jaime, I actually spread the dirt on the wet paint , it acts as glue , and you don't need the second layer of glue with paint mixed.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 31, 2015, 01:10:56 PM
Nice Jaime, I actually spread the dirt on the wet paint , it acts as glue , and you don't need the second layer of glue with paint mixed.
I've done the same in the past. Ricard mentions that on the video and explains the second paint/glue layer helps hide any missed spots on the first layer plus the first layer can be thinned to get at tight crevices. Either way, it all involves a lot of waiting.
Jaime
Any suggestions how to make one of these:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116249&hash=ebab54f265c0a4c9a399a0e188910cac1601c501)
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on February 01, 2015, 09:47:16 AM
Any suggestions how to make one of these:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116249&hash=ebab54f265c0a4c9a399a0e188910cac1601c501)
Jaime
I will probably paint my river bent for first, then work with medium acrylic glosse and adding some acrylic paint (in fact the color of the water) and brush the medium on the direction of the river flow. I will apply several coat with different shade of color. Then I'll create the eddies with clear silicon heavily dry brush with with paint and add a final thin coat of medium acrylic lightly stained with the colors of the water (on the silicone too).
Just an idea never try yet, but It will be the process I'll use in you situation.
Eric QUébec city
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm kinda stuck getting the river bed painted realistically. It's climb out too light and not very alive. I'll keep at it since all I need to do is just paint over until I get it right.
Jaime
Check out Dave Frary's video for making water. The key seems to be in getting the under color correct. But also coloring the Mod Podge should add to the muddy water look.
8)
Quote from: oldbloodhound on February 01, 2015, 11:54:32 AM
Check out Dave Frary's video for making water. The key seems to be in getting the under color correct. But also coloring the Mod Podge should add to the muddy water look.
8)
I've referenced that video several times while building this diorama. However, Frary is modeling an ocean. But, the same principles apply.
I'm stuck getting my river to look like it's moving. But it's just a matter of continuing to paint.
Here is Frary's video:
Jaime
If you want one of these kits you need to get moving. There are only 5 left.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116281&hash=b313a2f1f005e8bef712c7183fb0a64fa37bae77)
Jaime
Jaime this is one you need.
•Waterfalls.
Land Forms DVD
Building Waterways on your Model Railroad DVD - This 65 minute DVD is just $29.95 + Postage.
Jerry
Ps Check your mail.
4 kits left. You'd better act fast.
Jaime
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116393&hash=b01b7524d910fe9ddde94f88ae0fc490bb42ec5a)
It's down to the last 3 kits. Don't be left out.
http://www.southrivermodelworks.com/page5a.html
Jaime
Quote from: Jerry on February 01, 2015, 04:26:03 PM
Jaime this is one you need.
•Waterfalls.
Land Forms DVD
Building Waterways on your Model Railroad DVD - This 65 minute DVD is just $29.95 + Postage.
Jerry
Ps Check your mail.
Jerry, in which one does he and Hal cut a CREEK bed out and paint it? I watched it sometime in the last month, but I don't know if I found it as a freebie or have it in some of my downloads...
edited. Nevermind, I found it. It is on the one you mentioned above! Thanks for triggering my memory to go look for it!
Jaime:
Very nicely done so far. Like the colors and light weathering.
Karl
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 31, 2015, 11:19:45 AM
It all went OK for me except one thing, grout balls up when it gets wet.
Jaime
Jaime, you need to mist the dry grout with wet water to keep it from balling up...pre-wet it.
Howdy.
I have not advanced much on the diorama. Life finds a way to get in the way. In between working extra at the office and then catching a nasty cold I find I have not progressed a great deal since the last update. Nevertheless, here is where I am today.
I finished painting the track. I learned to paint and weather track from a Fine Scale Miniatures kit instructions. It is not hard. It is a tad time consuming but I like the results. Here is a summary of how to do that:
- paint the rails with rail brown paint (I used Floquil)
- paint the ties a random combination of roof brown, rust and some shade of earth
- leave some of the ties in the grey primer color
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7533.JPG&hash=4067cdd8c2c6112dc6c63ab36c2df34a244a11b3)
It looks a hot mess when you get done. But, after ballasting and weathering it all blends together. I use disposable micro brushes to paint the track. I did go ahead and ballasted the track with the grout I used for dirt. I want my track to be buried in the ground. I will weather the track further in the build.
Here is where I got bogged down. I began to paint the river bed. I searched high and low for references and techniques. However, this aspect of model railroading has always been a huge hurdle for me. I am lousy at scenery and struggle to get the colors I want. Nevertheless, here is what I got on my first attempt.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7534.JPG&hash=90976074b4e645fe6176491d0418717975d802db)
That looks like one of our dogs threw up on the diorama.
I've been talking to THE Runner (Mike Engler) about my build and he suggested I make a test river and practice on that. I am ashamed to admit I should have thought of this already. In past builds I have done a test when trying to get a technique down. So, I made a test river.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7535.JPG&hash=f43fdb35ff4a774ae6f2c2a615f09411954edcfc)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7536.JPG&hash=ad6b48120502989b400a395f005e9535d120da29)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7537.JPG&hash=09feccceef7ffbe380aa22528c972bb85b40855a)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7538.JPG&hash=9f593b63e6c9fc3c5ff5331fdc72ef50c6f8cbbc)
I used a combination of earth colors, black, white and blue to blend a passable river bed. It is too dark. But, this is easy to fix as all I have to do is repaint it.
Jerry was very kind to let me borrow his Dave Frary DVD about building water. I've been watching it and 2 other DVDs I have on hand. One of the other DVDs is a scenery DVD by Dave Frary and the one DVD from Scott Mason that features Bob VanGelder. They are great resources and I have been watching them as I cough up my lungs through this nasty cold.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7539.JPG&hash=e4c09703d07879cc21d86003ddb1a5e02f1cff5e)
And that is where I am today.
Coming up - the river and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com
I think your doing just fine! :)
Jaime... looks good. At the end when it all comes together is when it looks AWESOME! The riverbed doesn't look like much but when you add all of the little things to it, it will come to life........
Brad
Very interesting update.
I will follow your effort on the river. 'cause I've a river to mold too :)
Continue your very good job :)
Eric QUébec city
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmyyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7541.JPG&hash=8ac3904e9fcb26dd2356c184569c74d1c294c3c1)
I tweaked the colors on my test river and applied 5 coats of Mod Podge. I took the photo outdoors in my back yard.
I am pleased with the results. I need to practice the white water left by the rushing water and I'll be set to finish the actual river.
Jaime
Wow, the colors are right on. The white current streaks are painted on before, after, or both regarding the Mod Podge?
Quote from: Mike Engler on February 07, 2015, 07:03:18 PM
Wow, the colors are right on. The white current streaks are painted on before, after, or both regarding the Mod Podge?
Thanks.
The white streaks I painted on before applying the Mod Podge.
Jaime
Looking good Jaime.
Jaime your off to a good start. I'm sure this will be just fine when finished.
Jerry
very nicely done, your color are very good.
Eric Québec city
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116585&hash=570fda9c02979b671683ede54a751e7161da5fe4)
You best get a move on. Only 2 kits left.
Tick tock...
Jaime
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fkitforums.com%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D116625&hash=b4458e7ead90286ce24a76676dc6a9cbe327149d)
Alright!!!
Tucker and Cook is sold out.
Everyone out there let's see your build. 'Cause we love pictures.
I'm already looking forward to the next South River kit.
Jaime
They're showing up on eBay :
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=141575602330
Jaime
Howdy.
I had given myself until Valentine's Day to get finished. I am not finished. But, I am still progressing even if a tad slow.
So here is an update on my river experiment.
I've not made a river with rushing water and waterfalls before. I am having fun learning. Most important of all I am finding out this stuff is not hard at all. All the esoteric mysterious voodoo disappears as soon as one slops some model water on the scenery. Anyone can do this. I am not exaggerating.
On to the pictures.
I took Mod Podge and slathered it on my test river. It takes the first coat about 1 hour to dry (even though the product literature says 15-20 minutes). The Mod Podge dries clear and shiny even though It goes on milky white.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7540.JPG&hash=ff2d9517275edc53196127d2faca6e00bb8f0fc6) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7540.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7541.JPG&hash=7b65a9e4d8e852a77f07a428fc18bcb3c8540021) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7541.JPG)
I found out that each subsequent layer of Mod Podge does dry after about 20 minutes. It's only the first layer that takes a while to dry.
You cannot mess up this stuff. If you don't like how the last layer went on, just apply another layer. It's that easy. The trick is getting the river painted the way you want and then apply the Mod Podge.
I wanted to do some sort of rushing water and waterfall effects. I followed Dave Frary's method of applying acrylic Gloss Gel. I bought some made by Liquitex at Michaels with a coupon. The jar of the Gloss Gel costs about $15. I have read where some get the same results with clear silicone caulk. I will try that later. For now I wanted to try the Gloss Gel.
This part is not hard. But, it takes a long time to see the end result. First one takes a clear plastic bag (actually only one side of the bag) and slathers on the Gloss Gel in a downward motion with a wood stick. The goal is to make rivulets of rushing water with the Gloss Gel. When one side is dry, flip the clear plastic and do the other side. If you are not happy with the result, slather on some more Gloss Gel. It is not hard. It is slow though. The Gloss Gel goes on thick and milky white and took 2 days to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7542.JPG&hash=e7068c010b199de7a914c723c2e299bfbaaa5210) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7542.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7552.JPG&hash=efb98fd834088a9058f36326f529eac3a2f78f96) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7552.JPG)
Notice how the end product is clear, shiny and looks like sheets of falling water.
Now one cuts enough of the waterfall to fit the desired area. The waterfall is applied with some more of the Gloss Gel so as to simulate waves/rushing water.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7553.JPG&hash=dfff284d36766aa83525c1d1f220ccb0ba655f51) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7553.JPG)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7554.JPG&hash=e57a498a11d3da1b4c29372ed9ab63232cb60b59)
Because the Gloss Gel dries with the same body as it is applied, it ends up looking like waves and disturbed water. The Mod Podge does not do that as it does not have the same body as the Gloss Gel.
Here is a close-up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myyehudaexperience.com%2Fimages%2FSRM_370_IMG_7555.JPG&hash=6c52cec765e9792fff450b626d3713b28b08634f) (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/SRM_370_IMG_7555.JPG)
When the waterfall and waves dry I will highlight the crests of the rushing water with white acrylic paint. Then one takes gloss acrylic varnish to seal the whole affair.
And that is where I am today. I wait for the waterfall to dry. This hobby requires the patience of a saint.
Coming up - the river and more scenery.
Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com (http://www.myyehudaexperience.com)
Jaime,
Thank you for your step by step photos and commentary as you create flowing water. It is looking great already, cannot wait to see the final result. (I read somewhere that this hobby takes the patience of a saint!)
Jaime, That is really starting to look awesome. Great job
Sam
Thanks.
I followed Dave Frary's method as shown in his DVD "Building Waterways on your Model Railroad".
http://mrscenery.com/dvd.html (http://mrscenery.com/dvd.html)
Jaime
Wow.... I'm speechless.....
Eric Québec city
Nice..... It is really going to look good... Thanks for posting the process......
Brad
Quote from: NEMMRRC on February 14, 2015, 06:05:14 PM
Thanks.
I followed Dave Frary's method as shown in his DVD "Building Waterways on your Model Railroad".
http://mrscenery.com/dvd.html (http://mrscenery.com/dvd.html)
Jaime
Copy Cat!! (Not a negative, but a prerequisite for continueing to learn, grow, and enjoy this great hobby
that we're in)!
Thanks for the great sharing that everyone in this hobby does!!! ;D ;D ;D
Wow Jaime I'm impressed with your first tries at doing water.
Now when I do mine I'll know exactly not what to do.
Great job.
Jerry
Jaime very well done my friend! Great step by step - this thread is going to be very useful for those that still haven't got their kit out of the box.
Don't give Jaime too many applauds - he'll demand ice cream!! ;D ;D ;D
Jaime deserves ice cream just for putting up with us and giving us all these good tips.
8)
Dave Frary, Bob VanGelder and other model railroad pioneers deserve all the credit. I'm just following directions and summarizing it here. Truly the hardest part about it all is setting up and cleaning up. The actual work goes fast and once started is quite easy and obvious. I told THE Runner earlier I felt really dumb for not having tried this whole water effects earlier.
Thanks for following along. I do enjoy sharing my results on the forum. I only wish I had more free time to do this stuff. Today would have been a perfect day to work on all this as wintry weather has everything closed down except the office where I work. They never close that office.
Jaime
Well, we'll see how good those directions are, when I try the Mod-Podge-on-plastic trick for my "water over the dam". :-) :-)
dave
Jaime any free time lately?? :)
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on March 04, 2015, 11:29:40 PM
Jaime any free time lately?? :)
Jerry
Thanks for staying on top of it. I'm slowly making my way back.
Jaime
Jamie,
I must of missed your final photos to this build. Can you please post them so I can see how it turned out.
Thanks!
Alan
Yeah, I must have missed them also. Are you bringing it to the Expo?
Jaime
It sure is nice of all your friends to help you get motivated to do some modeling.
I think Jaime must have misplaced them, I would certainly recall a Jaime photo. Could you post them again Jaime.
THANK YOU for sharing your excellent build of this kit !
Jaime runner asked if you were bringing it to the EXPO. Is that was in the box? :)
Just needs to be put together when you get there???
Jerry
Tucker and Cook, at least the one I'm still building, is not coming to Expo with me.
See you all at Expo.
Jaime
Jaime,
Thank you for the very informative build. Great job. there is always something to learn and I have picked up several techniques from your build. I also have the SRMW Tucker & cook Yarn Mill building and have just opened the box. Still reading the early build comments, but will be starting next week. I'll be referring toyour build thread to keep me out of trouble. I can't wait til you finish the water. That has been my nemesis for years and now I can finally give it a go after you finish the water segment. Water is looking good. Keep up the good work.
Frank / Erieman
Jaime when is this going to have some work done on it???
Just checking we all know that your a big shot now at work but work and no play will make you a dull boy!!!! :)
Jerry
Jaime needs some chicken and dumplins followed by a big bowl of ice cream to
get his mind back on the 'FUN SIDE'!
These "promotions" ain't all they're cracked up to be!!! ;D ;D ;D
I had hoped to have finished already. I was all set to get back to it after Expo but it has not happened.
Jaime
Jamie,
Just wanted to see where you stood with this build...
Alan
Howdy.
Thanks for checking in.
I'm still not finished :-(
Jaime
Howdy.
I bet you all are wondering why I'm posting here. Well, I just re-read this thread tonight. It's crazy how life throws a wrench our way and model trains end up derailed. When I stopped progress on this build I was having a really hard time at work. Let's just say I no longer have to worry about that. Work life is much better now.
I really wanted to post here because I made a new friend due to this build thread. Tom Boyd began to email me when Bob VanGelder of South River Modelworks suggested this build thread to Tom. Long story short, I met Tom at the recent 2018 National Narrow Gauge Convention. It was a blast.
So, the moral of the story is.... enjoy the hobby to the fullest.
Tucker and Cook did not get finished. I have the diorama put away and hope to finish it eventually. I had great fun building it and sharing the build here with everyone.
South River is not making kits anymore. So, it'd be a shame for any of you out there that have South River kits unbuilt on your shelves....
Jaime
Glad you did post here.
Its so good to have you back with us and I think I speak for all of us.
Glad things are going your way with work and in life. May they always be that way.
Your friend from Jersey!
Jerry
Never had a doubt that you wouldn't come back shining like before Jaime ;D
Jaime:
Just finished going through your build. Looks just fantastic.
Karl