I was thinking about this:  given how similar the products are, I'd be surprised if this new company did NOT buy the tooling from Homabed.  Those diagonal cuts in the roadbed strikes me as distinctive and presumably done by some special tool...


dave

Send that rain up northeast, we are still well under normal rain.  I heard the gummint just updated its weather standards to include the last decade's results, so now temperatures will be less "hotter than usual" because "usual" temperatures went up. 


I sent a package to Tom "on approval" for addition to his layout.  I'm looking forward to seeing it when he finds a good location for the Judges Chambers. 


dave

I've had some problems when using epoxy with the bracing not staying in position, particularly when gluing the whole box together.  Titebond has good initial tack, so you're probably not having the same problems.  I enjoy seeing how you clamp up your assemblies. 


dave

I like to soak metal castings in a solution of dishwasher soap, water and vinegar.  The idea is that the vinegar etches them a bit for better adhesion.  Then I use my airbrush to prime them.  I've had the best luck lately with the Badger Stynelrenz primers:  http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Stynylrez.asp   The only issue I have with these is the GawdAwful name that I can never spell correctly!! 

Floquil primer is still the best, if you have the primer, the solvent AND a good outside-venting spray booth. 

dave

Best to Diane.  Try saying "wrinked retina" 5 times fast!

More work on the geology project today, then maybe some poking at scenery.  I like that 'coal' photo, it's probably from around 1905, given mostly wood hoppers but an early steel hopper just on the right side of the photo.  Love those semaphore signals!

dave

Jeff, I always put a sheet of wax paper between the wet side and the weights, or the wet side and the table (if I've painted a wall that has bracing, I'll put the wax paper on the table, the painted side down, then the weight on the bracing.)  The paint does take a bit longer to dry that way. 

dave

That IB stuff was new to me when I first read about it maybe 20 years ago, when did it start?   (I went to a high school where I would have expected this to Be A Thing if it was around in the early '70s.  I do remember Advanced Placement exams, but my college wasn't interested in them.  Instead, I talked my way into Sophomore Calculus when I got there, without the hassle of the exam :-) ) 

I started today with more work on my geology project, handing off more data to my lab partner to look at.  She's wrapping up her Senior research project for another course, and then we'll turn to the project in Tectonics.  I've been with the same 2 or 3 kids for all of the courses the last 3 years, it'll be sad to see my "classmates" graduate.   Speaking of the geology, here's 2 live volcano cams from Iceland.  Be sure to check them late in the evening, the nigh time images have been really spectacular:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGgyr3-DI5pr5Cnnv2A8shg

Maybe some time in the train room this afternoon, pondering a new project.  (But I've said that before.)  Since the backdrops are in place under the stairs, I think I'll try to do scenery work there.

dave

Jeff, I've seen that problem on siding sheets, too.  I suspect a coat of shellac as the starting point would have helped, but that's "water under the bridge" now.  Streaking some thinned craft barn red craft paint might be the best solution, so you're laying down pigment rather than just a stain. 

Another option might be to apply a light-medium thin coat of grey paint (weathered wood color), and then some red on top of that.  Just some thoughts... 

I always try to weigh down siding sheets after I paint or stain them.

dave